• The International Journal of Costume Culture
• /
• v.12 no.2
• /
• pp.179-196
• /
• 2009

This is a follow-up study to "An Analysis of the Fitting of Plus-sized Women's Formal Jackets in On-line Shopping Malls", in which we compiled basic sizes of formal jackets sold in online retailers for plus-sized women and compared specific measurements of the jackets from each retailer. Emphasizing a comparison of age groups 20-39 and 40-59, fit evaluations and analyses were conducted in order to provide data to help manufacturers develop formal jacket patterns that reflect physical characteristics of plus-sized consumers and offer better physical fit. The surveys and evaluations were conducted between October 2007 and May 2008. and the compiled data were analyzed using the SPSS 17.0 statistics program. The results were summarized as follows. The two age groups gave different evaluations of the fit problems in the women's formal jackets sold in online retailers. Whereas the age group 20-39 felt that the main problems were in the shoulder, armscye, upper arm, waist, abdomen and hip areas, the age group 40-59 said that they found more problems in the armscye, upper arms, sleeve length and jacket length. Modifying the shoulder area, armscye depth and jacket length severely compromises the jacket's balance, and attention to these areas must be given during pattern design.

• Asia Marketing Journal
• /
• v.15 no.3
• /
• pp.97-115
• /
• 2013

This paper was motivated by two gaps in the extant literature on brand portfolio planning. First, research has shown that, as the number of products connected to a brand increases, the extended product receives more favorable evaluations. However, this result was obtained by comparing two brands with different number of products while controlling the brands' breadths. Hence one may question if the above result would hold when the brand is narrow as well as broad. Second, the literature has investigated the effect of brand breadth on the perceived fit and evaluations of an extended product within a relatively limited range ("narrow vs. broad") and not considered the case of a "very broad" brand. To address these gaps, we propose two hypotheses: 1) the effects of the number of products associated with a brand on the perceived fit and evaluations of a moderately far brand extension are moderated by the brand's breadth (H1); and 2) the relationship between a brand's breadth and a moderately far extension's perceived fit and evaluations looks like an inverse-U shape (H2). Study 1 was conducted to test H1. Study 1 employed a 2 × 2 within-subjects design in which the first factor was the number of products (small (2) or large (5)), and the second factor was brand breadth (narrow or broad). We measured brand breadth as the perceived similarity among products associated with a brand. Participants provided the perceived fit and evaluations of an extended product. Study 2 was conducted to test H2 as well as to replicate Study 1 in a more general setting and with different products. It employed a 2 × 3 within-subjects design, in which the first factor was the number of products (small (2) or large (5)), and the second factor was brand breadth (narrow, broad, or very broad). The results from two experiments support both hypotheses. This paper contributes to the literature on brand extensions in two ways. First, it broadens our understanding of the effects of product number and brand breadth on extended product evaluations by considering the two factors jointly. Second, we believe this study to be the first to present evidence that brand breadth can exert an inverted U-shape effect on the perceived fit and evaluations of an extended product. The results also offer implications for marketers. First, marketers should heed the finding that adding similar products to a narrow brand does not help the brand's extension launch. Second, the finding that the relationship between brand breadth and extended product evaluations might not be linear provides practical implications. While a narrow brand should not keep launching close extensions, nor should a broad brand continue producing far extensions to broaden its breadth. A firm with a broad corporate or family brand might want to consider introducing a new brand instead of adding dissimilar products under the brand umbrella.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.31 no.5
• /
• pp.586-606
• /
• 2023

This study initiated research aligned with the body positivity movement, aiming to explore size diversity for groups facing relative size discrimination due to their deviation from average body types. Using KS adult women's apparel dimensions as a reference, jackets were developed for women in their 20s to 30s who belong to the small petite-size (S[P]) category, which is characterized by a height under 155cm (petite) and a bust-circumference from 72cm to less than 82cm (small). Using 3D virtual-fitting, we conducted experiment-pattern production and refinement and subsequent real-fitting evaluations by participants to objectively validate aesthetics and comfort. The study's findings are as follows: First, utilizing a 3D virtual-fitting program by identifying 'creases' and 'garment pressure points' in the jacket appearance, experiment patterns were refined and real jackets were produced. This approach addressed challenges in recruiting participants with specific body types and allowed for efficient research in terms of cost and time. Second, through real-fitting evaluations, basic-fit and slim-fit jackets labeled as <79-88-150> were developed for the S(P) size. we presented 'size spec' and 'ease allowance' for jackets by waist fit. Both fits received positive evaluations with approximately 53.5cm sleeve length, and 11.7cm shoulder length. The ease allowances for the basic-fit jacket were approximately 9.2cm at the bust circumference, 12.8cm at the waist circumference, and 6cm at the hip circumference. Similarly, the slim-fit jacket exhibited ease allowances of about 4.8cm at the bust circumference, 4cm at the waist circumference, and 4cm at the hip circumference, receiving positive evaluations for aesthetics and comfort.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.17 no.1
• /
• pp.93-101
• /
• 2015

This study aims to suggest the patternmaking method of men's slim-fit six-panel jacket sloper in their 30's. The researcher collected four kinds of existing slopers and carried out appearance evaluations twice. The researcher's sloper was developed by modifying and supplementing the existing sloper with high scores from the evaluations. The results are as follows: first, when comparing the four kinds of existing slopers, dimensions and patternmaking methods of 18 areas, especially width of back chest and side chest, were varied according to the existing slopers. Second, the researcher's sloper had excellent scores in the appearance evaluations such as placements of side line on the chest, waist, hip line, measurement in dimension from the center back hip line and from waist line, and appearance of neck line. Third, the suggested sloper are as follows: the ease on the chest is 10.5 cm, 8~10 cm extends for the jacket length, the measure in dimension from the back waist is 2.2 cm, dart intake at the back side is 4 cm, dart intake at the front side is 1.5~2 cm, and dart intake at the front waist is 1 cm. This suggested six-panel jacket sloper is expected to be useful for the various slim-fit jacket designs which have the side panels.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
• /
• v.12 no.1
• /
• pp.71-84
• /
• 2009

For fit satisfaction evaluation, the subjects were asked to put on the jackets from the seven manufacturers in random order, view how the jackets fit in a full-body mirror and answer questions regarding fitting in 22 specific areas, including the neck, shoulders, waist, hips and arms, as well as eight questions related to maneuverability. The surveys and evaluations were conducted between October 2007 and November 2008, and the compiled data were analyzed using the SPSS 14.0 statistics program. The One-way analysis of variance was performed to comparatively analyze the differences among the products from the seven manufacturers. Post-hoc tests were performed based on Duncan's test for the criteria that displayed significant differences. The results were summarized as follows. Fit evaluations were performed for the size 88 formal jackets from the seven manufacturers. All items, except the center front line, displayed significant differences at p<0.05 or higher among the manufacturers. The age group 20-39 felt that the main problems were in the shoulder, armscye, upper arm, waist, abdomen and hip areas. Modifying the shoulder area, armscye depth and hip areas severely compromises the jacket's balance, and attention to these areas must be given developed pattern design.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
• /
• v.3 no.2
• /
• pp.112-119
• /
• 2000

The purpose of this study is to investigate the bodice patterns by analyzing sensory evaluations. Anthropomatric data was collected between April and October of 2000. Total 283 body measurements were collected for this study including both direct and indirect measurements(29 variables from the direct anthropometric data. 5 variables from the indirect anthropometric data). Data were analyzing using percentiles. standard deviation and Anova. The appearance and fit of three kinds of bodice patterns (N. L. H type) were evaluated by expert panel and the subjects. The results of the anthropometric measurements and sensory evaluations are as follows : A significant differences (p$\leq$.001) in the height, width and girth Items was found. The results of the bodice pattern evaluations by expert panel indicates that a significant difference (p${\le}$.05) in the responses to the placement of the waist dart, the fit of the bust area and the placement o( the back shoulder dart for 20's and 30's. The result of the evaluations by subjects indicates that a significant difference (p${\le}$.05) in the responses to the placement of the waist dart for 40's. A significant difference (p${\le}$.05) in the responses to the suitability of the shoulder area among the age groups.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.27 no.3
• /
• pp.96-114
• /
• 2023

In modern society, there is a tendency to prioritize both fashion and comfort, with a preference for loose-fit clothing that enhances mobility. While darts may not be visibly present on the garment's exterior, their effects should be dispersed and incorporated into the design. However, there is a significant lack of systematic research on dartless patterns in the current state. Therefore, this study focuses on investigating dartless patterns used in loose-fit clothing tailored to the body measurements of women in their 20s. The objective of this research is to develop foundational dartless patterns that serve as a basis for diverse design possibilities in loose-fit clothing. To achieve this purpose, seven dartless patterns introduced in clothing construction references were selected for the production of experimental prototypes, which were then subjected to visual evaluations by a panel of experts. Based on the evaluation results, superior patterns were selected and they underwent modification and improvement to develop the research patterns. The developed research patterns were derived through the formulation of calculation formulas, and based on these formulas, garments were produced. Subsequently, a second round of visual evaluations was conducted by a panel of experts, and notable improvements were observed in most of the aspects assessed. However, it should be noted that this study was limited to women in their 20s it did not explore a wide range of fabrics. Therefore, further research is needed in the future.

• Fashion, Industry and Education
• /
• v.15 no.2
• /
• pp.1-10
• /
• 2017

The purposes of this study were to explore (1) how fit reviews differ among height groups and (2) how overall numerical ratings differ depending on height groups and ifferent types of fit reviews. Content analysis was used to analyze systematically sampled online consumer reviews (OCRs) of formalwear dresses rented online. In part 1, 201 OCRs were analyzed to develop the coding scheme, which included three aspects of fit (physical, aesthetic, and functional), valence (negative, neutral, positive), and overall numerical rating. In part 2, 600 OCRs were coded and statistically analyzed. Differences in frequency were not found among height groups for any types of mentions (negative, neutral, and positive) in terms of the three aspects of fit in the OCRs. Differences in overall mean ratings were not found among height groups. Interestingly, valence of each aspect of fit reviews affected mean numeric ratings. This study is new in examining relationships among textual information (i.e., fit reviews), numerical information (i.e., numerical rating), and reviewer's characteristic (i.e., height). The results of this study offered practical implications for etailers and marketers that they should pay attention to the three aspects of fit reviews and monitor garments with negative fit evaluations for lower ratings. They may attempt to increase ratings by providing customers recommendations to get a better fit.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
• /
• v.1 no.2
• /
• pp.100-112
• /
• 1998

The purpose of this study is to investigate the torso patterns by analyzing sensory evaluations. The anthropometric measurements for female college students were obtained between March and October in 1998, and a total of 197 anthropomatric data was used for the somatotype analysis. The appearance and fit of three kinds of torso patterns(ESMOD, FIT, and Muller & sohn) were evaluated by expert panel and the subjects. The results of the anthropometric measurements and sensory evaluations are as follows; The mean height of the anthropometric data for 197 students is 158.98cm. The largest proportion of the three somatotypes(H, M and A type) is big hip type(A type) consisting of 47.7% of all the respondents. The result of the torso pattern evaluations by expert panel indicates that the ESMOD pattern obtains the highest rating in general acceptability. A significant difference(p<.05) in the responses to two questions, the placement of the waist dart, and the gapping & creasing at back hip area was found. The ESMOD and Muller & sohn patterns are given the highest rating in the general acceptability. The result of the evaluation was obtained by the subjects. (Korean J. Human Ecology 1(2):100∼112, 1998)

• Journal of Mechanical Science and Technology
• /
• v.19 no.11
• /
• pp.1988-1997
• /
• 2005

This study is concerned with structural integrity evaluations for the interference-fit flywheels in reactor coolant pumps (RCPs) of nuclear power plants. Stresses in the flywheel due to the shrinkage loads and centrifugal loads at the RCP normal operation speed, design overspeed and joint-release speed are obtained using the finite element method (FEM), where release of the deformation-controlled stresses as a result of structural interactions during rotation is considered. Fracture mechanics evaluations for a series of cracks assumed to exist in the flywheel are conducted, considering ductile (fatigue) and non-ductile fracture, and stress intensity factors are obtained for the cracks using the finite element alternating method (FEAM). From analysis results, it is found that fatigue crack growth rates calculated are negligible for smaller cracks. Meanwhile, the material resistance to non-ductile fracture in terms of the critical stress intensity factor (K$_{IC}$) and the nil-ductility transition reference temperature (RT$_{NDT}$) are governing factors for larger cracks.