• KIEAE Journal
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• 제8권3호
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• pp.61-68
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• 2008

The development of urbanization in the twentieth century according to the rampant growth of industrialization not only brought about the improvement of life-quality but also induced us to reconsider the contemporary issues such as crisis of echo system which made us aware of the values and significance of the system and sustainable environments. As sustainability has been recognized as the holistic concept, it has been highlighted as one of the core concepts in the studies with the present ecological perspective. Particularly, as the plan of urbanization in Korea which had been based on the deconstruction has been converted into the regeneration, economic and cultural regeneration is also demanded for the future plan besides material regeneration. This study aims to scrutinize various attributes of socially sustainable designs in Yerba Buena Garden of San Francisco, USA which has been globally well known as a successful example of urban regeneration. By way of visit-and-observation of the place, the research for the study was conducted during the month of December, 2007. Three researchers visited Yerba Buena Garden to observe and take photographs and to obtain relevant data and public documents in local public library. Socially sustainable design was measured on the basis of such principles; social facilitation, permeability and accessibility, safely and emotional stability, softness and feminism, and child care convenience. Relevant data were systematically organized to support and prove the above principles. The result of the study is expected to effectively be utilized for Korean environment plan and design as a benchmarking guidelines against the crisis of degeneration and the aging society with the lowest birthrates in the world.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제17권2호
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• pp.79-92
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• 2015

Covers of fashion magazines are part of the media that reflects the zeitgeist. Thus an analysis of the covers is a tool to probe the social and cultural changes of a period. This study attempts to shed light on the changes of the image of women on the cover of men's fashion magazines; this study intends to investigate the changes of status and role of women, from the past up to the present, through analyzing the meaning of the image of female models. For this purpose, this study conducts both literature and corroborative research. The period for the analysis is limited to post-1960s when female models began to appear alone on the cover of men's fashion magazine. The three decades from the 1960s through today have been analyzed according to its characteristics. The result is as follows: female models in the 1960s were shown as subjugated and ancillary to men as a commodity for the affluent materialistic civilization after World War II. In the 1970s, thanks to feminism movement, the image of resistance dominated. As a result of women's right movement, the 1980s came to witness the female image of subjective characteristics. Finally, starting in the 1990s, a mixture of subjugated, resistant, and subjective image of female models has appeared. In the contemporary culture, where the communication through images is being increased, the image of the female models in fashion magazines could work as a criterion to measure the social change.

• 한국융합학회논문지
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• 제12권11호
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• pp.275-284
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• 2021

본 연구는 페미니스트 잡지 표지 사진의 여성 이미지 특성을 분석한다. 페미니스트 잡지 표지 속 여성 이미지의 기초적 분석과 함께 사회기호학 연구의 방법론인 크레스와 리우웬(Kress & Leeuwen)의 시각 문법을 활용하여 여성 이미지를 조직한 기호의 구조와 구동 원리를 탐색한다. 분석 대상은 1960년대부터 2010년대까지 발행된 잡지 중, 200권의 표지로 설정하였다. 분석 결과, 첫째, 페미니스트 잡지 표지의 여성 이미지는 다양한 인종, 연령, 외모, 직업의 여성을 보여주며, 신체의 강조 정도가 낮고 자연스러운 모습으로 연출되었다. 둘째, 재현적(Representational) 메타기능과 상호작용적(Interactive) 메타기능을을 적극적으로 활용하여 자신감과 힘, 용기의 메시지가 주요하게 전달되었다. 셋째, 조직된 기호는 수신자가 이미지를 이해하고 해석하는 데 영향을 끼친다는 것을 확인할 수 있었다. 본 연구가 여성 이미지에 대한 표현 방법을 숙고하게 하고, 입체적이며 다양한 여성의 군상을 표현하는 데 도움이 되길 바란다.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제28권2호
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• pp.50-63
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• 2024

Chinese traditional wedding dress is a unique cultural symbol. It had a deep historical background as it went through different productions in each dynasty. However, with the introduction of Western ideas, an increasing number of people are wearing Western-style wedding dresses when they are getting married. Recently, traditional Chinese culture has been increasingly valued. Demand for traditional Chinese wedding dresses among modern Chinese people is increasing. Following this trend, Chinese designer Guo Pei(1967~) is actively innovating elements of traditional Chinese wedding dresses. This study aimed to analyze changes in traditional wedding dress styles by dynasty in China from 1046 B.C. to 1911 A.D. based on museum data and previous research. Changes in traditional wedding dress styles by Chinese dynasty were analyzed and organized. The meaning of wedding dress patterns was analyzed by type using traditional Chinese patterns. This study focused on Guo Pei's 2012 "Chinese bride" series and "Legend of the dragon" series. Starting from the development and characteristics of traditional Chinese wedding dresses, this study analyzed fashion characteristics of Guo Pei's wedding dress series. Goals of this study were to preserve the essence of traditional Chinese wedding dresses; and to determine how to apply the fusion of traditional Chinese design elements into fashion and modern design to wedding dresses.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제19권2호
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• pp.430-448
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• 2011

This study analyzes the stereotyped femininity with a focus on body codes, which has been continuously expressed in fashion illustrations from the late $19^{th}$ century to the year 2010, and examines the changes in its meaning. Stereotyped femininity was reorganized by the changes in female sex role effected by social changes, as well as by the body discourse and feminism in the late $20^{th}$ century, These socio-cultural backgrounds led to the change in the meaning of stereotyped women expressed in fashion illustrations. The stereotyped women in fashion illustrations are characterized by gender-oriented body, and the typical image of women was reproduced with the marks of poses and looks that feature passiveness and subordination. Then, the gender-oriented body since 1990's shifted to active meaning that positively revealed sexual desire. The space positioned by women is also the symbol of gender. In line with changes over time, the backgrounds in fashion illustrations have changed from private space such as home and nature to public space such as city, which reflects diversification and expansion of space for women. This study has identified the changes in meaning, based on the analysis of the characteristics of stereotyped women expressed in fashion illustrations. Above all, women who were objectified as a subject by dominant discourse have established the concept of active body as an entity. In addition, the symbol of typical femininity is "slim" and "beauty", which reflects the change from the emphasis on childbirth-related femininity to self-control and conquer. On the other hand, the typical features expressed through body have reproduced dichotomous structure, but the emergence of body and background deviated from gender has reorganized the symbolic order of gender.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제40권6호
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• pp.1-19
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• 2002

This study is to observe the meaning, aesthetic formative nature of the human body which has been not only a main issue and discussion object but also socially, culturally connected with clothing by contemplating it in the respect of the trend of art. Additionally, a work of contemplation about human body introduced to fashion design was analyzed to renew the meaning and value of the formative art inside the human body. The way and scope of this study is to contemplate the concept and meaning of human body, based on the documentary records such as art history and clothing history in the West society as a main theme. The results of the analysis were as follows: In the first place, the formative characteristics shown in the modem arts expressing the human body since 1990 which are cubism, futurism, metaphysical painting, dadaism, surrealism, pop art, happening, feminism, body art, and technology art are distortion, exaggeration and dismantling. Second, the aesthetic formative nature and meaning in the human body appear to be different according to the standard of ideal beauty of human body when we examine the expression of it from the aspect of art-history and the meaning of human body implied in it. Besides, human body is being used as a messenger which delivers the message of modem artist to other people. So the changed meaning of human body has affected the clothing and made it possible to manufacture and form new styles of clothing that have never been before. In conclusion, the human body in the modem era plays an important role as a brand-new formative medium of communication in the human society and contributes to the development which applies the aesthetic formative nature of the human body to fashion design.

• 복식
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• 제59권2호
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• pp.154-168
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• 2009

This study aims on providing a design technique that expresses aesthetical elements by arranging the analysis of sensual beauty into detailed elements of design from music video outfits by genre of pop music, by observing music videos of female vocalists chosen from each genre of pop music focusing on their fashion. The results of this study are the following. 1. In the genre rock, the sensual beauty of female were expressed with a boyish and neutral style using texture such as leather or denim, and such style had the effect of emphasizing their feminine side even more. 2. In the genre dance music, exposure is extensive compared to other genre using sexy or lingerie look, and I found an ambivalent style of feminism with clothes in the form of drapery using textures such as chiffon and silk, and femme fatale style with textures adhering to the body such as leggings, leotard, and bodysuit. 3. In the genre of rap and hip-hop, clothes from casual and costume-play style were found using training jersey, t-shirt, and denim pants, and emphasized the sensual beauty of women by showing a silhouette with short length and fitting style using shiny textures. 4. In the genre of R&B, there were diverse outfits that suits the characteristics of characters appearing in the stories, or the situation of the story since there are many dramatic representation in the form of story Especially in case of female characters, the feminine side was emphasized staging a feminine style by wearing dresses with the texture of chiffon and silk. Exposure was restrained compared to other genre.

• 한국실내디자인학회논문집
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• 제14권3호
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• pp.20-27
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• 2005

The built-in kitchen that is seen in every household is one of the achievements of the modernism architecture in early 20th century. Developed on the basis of two axis, one of which is the high industrialization and the other the sceptical assessment on the traditional value-system, the 20th century was launched in the form of the twofold entanglement, through the unfolding of which the cultural code of the modernism could be operated. The Quantification of the psychic that was attempted by H. v. Helmholtz and E. Mach in the pursuit of the reunification of sensation to the normal science was the first thread of that, while the second the break-down of the authoritative ideology and the emancipation of woman labour, which were initiated by the leftist movements. In this situation Margarete Schutte-Lihotzky was the woman architect who has tried to overcome the patriarchism in the household through architectural work by dwelling on that the emancipation of the housewives from the inefficient household labour is directly connected with the accomplishment of human freedom. She applied the modernist functionalism to the designing the kitchen for that purpose and outlined the effective range and operational realm of the rationalization. After all this the future preoccupying endeavor became the decisive moment that gave birth to a aesthetically and functionally good deliberated design of the kitchen in the present. This study is purposed to actualize the architectural ideas of Lihotzky into the present context through the consideration on the Frankfurt Kitchen of her and to grope for the relationship between architecture and feminism on the common horizon of the functionalist architecture and the women's liberation.

• 조형예술학연구
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• 제10권
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• pp.5-50
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• 2006

인간의 신체는 단순한 육체적 몸을 넘어서 온갖 삶의 역사를 담은 상징체이다. 특히 예술 표현을 위해 신체를 사용하는 수많은 예들을 통해 볼 때, 즉 예술의 대상으로서 신체를 포착하거나, 자신의 생각을 전달하기 위해 신체 행위를 드러내거나 간에 시간과 장소를 포함한 삶의 지시체와 같은 역할을 해왔다. 이러한 신체에 대한 입장은 사실 그리 오래된 관점이 아니다. 1960년대 이래 이성과 사유의 힘을 중심화 하던 모더니즘의 사유 패러다임이 쇠퇴하고 감성과 감각의 중요성이 부각되면서 오랜 동안 정신의 시녀였던 신체가 탈분화적 관점에서 하나의 실체로서 주목하게 되면서부터이다. 이는 현대미술의 흐름에서 1940년대 이후 액션페인팅(Action Painting)에서부터 신체행위의 중요성이 제기되고 1960년대 액셔니즘(Actionism)과 플럭서스(Fluxus)의 빈번한 퍼포먼스(Performance)에서 신체는 표현의 중요한 매체가 되었다. 이브 클랭(Yves Kline)의 신체와 그 흔적에 의한 개념적 작업에서 시작되어, 1970년대 본격화된 바디아트(Body Art)에서 신체는 보다 확고한 예술의 매체로 부각된다. 이후 1980년대 만개한 페미니즘(Feminism)과 1990년대 파편화되고 해체된 신체미술의 경향들로 이어졌다. 이러한 흐름에서 볼 때 신체는 지시적 의미의 단계를 넘어서 개인의 정체성으로부터 세계상을 함축하여 드러낼 수 있는 단서로 간주된다. 특히 1980년대 이후 페미니즘(Feminism)적 경향의 키키 스미스(Kiki Smith)는 신체의 확장된 의미를 제시해주는 대표적 작가들로 그들의 작품을 연구 대상으로 하게 되었다. 이러한 배경 아래 키키스미스의 작품 세계를 고찰하기 위해, 신체를 통해 의미의 지평이 열리는 객관적 방법을 모색한 결과, 기호학과 신체론에 대한 고찰이 필요하다는 사실을 인식하게 되었다. 즉 신체를 객관화하여 가장 기초적인 수준에서 표현적인 부분과 내용적인 부분을 구조적으로 나누어 그 관계에 의해 의미가 발생하게 되는 과정을 기호와 텍스트의 개념에서 시작하였다. 나아가 이 표현면과 내용면의 구조적인 결합방식을 그레마스(A. J. Greimas)의 구조의미론에서 다룸으로써 의미의 확장을 위한 토대론적 작업을 구축하였다. 한편, 신체론에서는 세계와의 관계항으로서 신체를 조망하게 해준 메를로-퐁티(Maurice Merleau-Ponty)의 현상학(Phenomenology)과 애브젝션(abjection)의 개념을 통해 해체와 파편의 신체를 전달하게 해준 줄리아 크리스테바(Julia Kristeva)의 논의가 구조의미론적 분석을 해석으로 확장시키는 데 중요한 기여를 하였다. 키키 스미스는 1980년대 중반 죽음에 대한 서사에서 시작된 이중화와 파편화의 신체로부터 상처받을 수 있는 신체의 비천함이 구체적으로 드러난 1990년대 그리고 상처의 치유에 이르는 종교와 신화로 이어지는 2000년대 이후의 과정을 보여주었다.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제42권10호
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• pp.115-128
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• 2004

Social structure has diversified, and changed into the form of pluralism since entering the 21st century. Specially, entering in the 21st century modem fashion is expressed to the luxurious feminism which expresses sensual, strong, and decorative elegant based on the womanly beauty. The gorgeous image is a splendid and luxurious image. Also it is the fashion image which is expressed strongly by the decorative detail elements among the design components. Then, it appears often in modem fashion as the pursuit image of modem persons. Therefore, the purpose of this study was not only to analyze the meaning providence and the diagnostic elements about the gorgeous image that appears often in modem fashion, but also to help the various fashion image representations by arranging the presenting principle and the method of fashion image systematically setting in the trend toward modem fashion. The method of this study was a theoretical research of the literature materials concerned with fashion images by the clothes. Also, the questionnaires were completed by selected specialists as investigation subjects who were variously engaged in the fashion-related fields in order to research the gorgeous image. In the above results. the gorgeous image's diagnostic constituent was grasped laying stress on the characteristic of the clothes. Then, the whole concept named Luxury Imagination was chosen, and 4 suits of the gorgeous image were produced by these results In the diversified and personalized modem fashion with he above results the flowing of the gorgeous image is the part able to be expressed exactly in the view of the image pursued by the public.