• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.39 no.2
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• pp.190-203
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• 2015

The fashion industry has been rearranged by Global SPA brands (like ZARA and H&M), which are powerful retailers that integrate the value chain ranging from manufacturing to sales. SPA brands can offer good quality of clothing at a reasonable price by cutting the margin between the supply chain. They are also called fast fashions since they make expedited efforts to respond to market trends and consumers. Despite the slow growth of the fashion industry in Korea, as global SPA brands rapidly expand market share, traditional fashion companies have launched several SPA brands such as MIXXO and SPAO (E-LAND), 8SECONDS (CHEIL INDUSTRIES). The few academic studies on this subject are focused on the analysis of secondary data such as news and books. The current research is qualitative and empirical attempts to explore the success factor of SPA brands with analysis of 1:1 in-depth interviews with experts who have worked for global SPAs such as Uniqlo, H&M, and ZARA, based on the grounded theory. The main phenomenon was shown to be that global SPA brands were popular since they offer a variety of products with a large assortment at reasonable and cheap prices in a large scale and multifunctional retail store. Most of them displayed main phenomena that can be realized due to the purchasing cycle of clothing that is shorter with consumers' regarding clothing as consumables. Global SPA brands had three types of marketing strategy: sellable product, sales strategy according to consumer response, and multifunctional stores. Each global SPA brand developed marketing strategies based on core competency and national conditions. The three success factors shorten the consumer decision making process of clothing. This study concludes with implications for practitioners of SPA brands born in Korea.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.4 s.103
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• pp.134-147
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• 2006

As modern society set in, lifestyle has been changing largely; leisure activity has been expanded and family activity became important. Changes in the lifestyle caused big changes even in fashion industry. Instead of suits, coordination using clothes easy to wear was extended and the need of family look was also raised. Despite the need and marketability of family look, however, family look style clothes depend on the manufacture by orders on the Internet and few brands have been developed unlike the activation of family restaurants or family fast-food restaurants. Thus, this study examined design of family look style T-shirts applying Korean image as one of measures to activate fashion brands of family look. This study purposed to find out self-conceit and identification of our culture by recreating family look as cultural tourism products applying Korean traditional patchwork wrapping-clothes and natural dying techniques and to globalize the products as high value-added ones containing differentiated Korea-style originality. In particular, as Interest in natural dying has been raised because of serious environmental problems and extension of wellbeing culture, products applying natural dying have been developed actively. At this point of time, the development of family look style T-shirts applying natural dying will contribute largely to planning globalization of our brands by developing products with more polished and globalized design.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.27 no.2
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• pp.181-192
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• 2019

The growth of cheap, industrial, mass-production-so-called "fast fashion"-has led to dramatic increases in levels of consumption. Inexpensive products tend to foster unsustainable consumption behaviors, which negatively impact the environment and increase pressure to obtain goods at lower and lower prices; this, in turn, has the competitive effect of decreasing wages. This study focused on the concept of socially responsible consciousness in relation to fashion products. Environmental and labor issue concerns were employed as major variables. Empirical data were collected from males and females, between the ages of 10 and 50. Demographic differences were found in SR consciousness. For example, participants in their 10s, 40s, and 50s had higher levels of SR consciousness than those in their 20s and 30s. In addition, consumers' levels of environmental and labor issue concerns had varying effects on the criteria they used to select clothing. Product category type was also an influential factor. Moreover, the analysis showed that SR consciousness was less important in the apparel industry than in the food sector. The study also found an attitude-behavior link in relation to the concept of SR consciousness. The link was stronger for environmental concerns than for labor issue concerns. This study aimed to develop a better understanding of current customers' characteristics and levels of SR consciousness.

• The Korean Fashion and Textile Research Journal
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• v.17 no.6
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• pp.1020-1029
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• 2015

This paper investigated the wearing performance of knitted fabrics made of air vortex yarns using PTT/tencel/cotton fibres in comparison with ring and compact yarns for emotional garment. Wicking property of knitted fabric made of MVS yarns was worse than those by ring and compact yarns, however, drying property of knitted fabric made of MVS yarns was better than those by ring and compact yarns, which was explained as more water vapor transport due to larger openness between fibres in the MVS yarns than those in the ring and compact yarns. Thermal conductivity of knitted fabric made of MVS was lower than those of ring and compact yarns and maximum heat flow(Q_max) at the transient state of MVS knitted fabric was lower than those of ring and compact yarns, which may be attributed to MVS yarn structure that has parallel fibres in the core part of the yarn and fasciated fibre bundles on the sheath part with roughness on the yarn surface. However, pilling of MVS knitted fabric was better than those by ring and compact yarns, which was caused by less and shorter hairy fibres protruded from MVS yarn surface than those of ring and compact yarns. It was observed that tactile hand of MVS yarn knitted fabrics was stiffer than those of ring and compact yarns knitted fabrics. It was explained by low extensibility and compressibility and high bending and shear rigidities of the MVS yarn knitted fabrics, which resulted in bad wearing performance of MVS knitted fabric.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.93-104
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• 2014

This paper investigates the physical properties such as water absorption, drying and hygral expansion of moisture responded transformable fibers and their knitted fabrics including dyeing characteristics according to the different dyeing time and temperature. For this purpose, three kinds of covered filament yarn specimens using HEF and spandex as core and PET, aerocool as a covering filament were prepared. The knitted fabric specimens were made using three kinds yarn specimens and dyed with different dyeing temperature and time. The moisture absorption, drying and hygral expansion of three kinds of knitted fabric specimens were measured and discussed with yarn structure. The wearing performance of these knitted fabric specimens were also measured and discussed with yarn characteristics using FAST system. Finally, the dyeing characteristics such as dye affinity, color difference and color fastness to washing of these knitted fabric specimens were measured and discussed with different dyeing temperature and time for examining dyeing process performance of these moisture responded transformable knitted fabrics.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.63-83
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• 2011

This study aims to prove the changes, development and social background of Korean male cosmetics over the period of 2000-2010. There were total 574 articles written about male make-up and cosmetics in Chosun Daily, Joongang Daily and Donga Daily, which are the top three Korean local daily newspapers in terms of sales revenue for that period. These articles were analyzed together with social background research from various books and daily newspapers. The analysis of articles was divided into different categories; such as foundation cosmetics, color cosmetics, hair, and the social background. It was found that the articles related to foundation cosmetics were written the most, the articles related to male appearance management were second, articles on other items including how to manage the skin being the least. As for the social background of Korean male cosmetics, first of all, a change in social recognition can be pointed out. The traditional understanding of gender roles has changed, men's appearance management has started to be regarded as a competitive talent, and at the same time, the esthetic viewpoint for men also has changed. One example is the newly made popular term, "flower-handsome man", which shows the new trend of favoring males with nice skin. Second, the expansion of mass culture can be pointed out. As consumers can get information and fashion trends easier and faster, the fashion spreads fast, and this has led to the generalization and popularization of the sense of beauty. Third, the development of scientific technology and medical science can be pointed out. Thanks to the progress in those areas. the extension of youthfulness has become possible and the cosmetics industry was also affected greatly, as shown in the market spread of functional products for anti-ageing and wrinkle control as the interest in anti-ageing has grown. There are benefits from the development of scientific technology, but the problem of environmental pollution has appeared due to machinery and industrialization and thus the issue of well-being has been raised. Rising interest in naturalism, pro-environmentalism and organic cosmetics has influenced the cosmetics industry. In addition, the quantity of ultraviolet rays exposed to our skin has increased due to the air pollution caused by the destruction of environment, leading to increased usage of sun block lotion. Lastly, the influence of consumer society and the expansion of consumerism culture can be pointed out. In the modern society, consumption acts not only as the use of products and services but it also has an important role of mediating individuals with others and the society. The market for male cosmetics has been expanding and the number of men putting on make-up has been increasing rapidly. Therefore, this study is meaningful in that the analysis of the mode of change and the social background are an essential process in order to provide a direction for the future market for male cosmetics.

• The Korean Fashion and Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.4
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• pp.641-647
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• 2012

This study investigates the sound properties of fabric frictional sound (SPL, ${\Delta}L$, ${\Delta}f$) according to the film type of PTFE laminated vapor-permeable water-repellent fabrics in order to understand the relationship between SPL and the basic properties of fabrics such as layer, yarn type, and thickness of fiber. This study accesses their mechanical properties and determines how to control them to minimize SPL. Eight PTFE laminated water-repellent fabrics, composed of four different film types (A, B, C, D) and with two different fabrics, were used as test specimens. Frictional sounds generated at 1.21m/s were recorded by using a fabric sound generator and SPLs were analyzed through Fast Fourier Transformation (FFT). The mechanical properties of fabrics were measured by KES-FB. The SPL value was lowest at 74.4dB in film type A and highest as 85.5dB in type D. Based on ANOVA and post-hoc test, specimens were classified into less Loud Group (A, B) and Loud Group (C, D). It was shown that SPL was lower when 2 layer (instead of 3 layer), filament yarn than staple, and thin fiber than thick were used. In Group I, shearing properties (G, 2HG5), geometrical roughness (SMD), compressional properties (LC, RC) and weight (W) showed high correlation with SPL however, elongation (EM) and shear stiffness (G) did with SPL in Group II.

• The Korean Fashion and Textile Research Journal
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• v.20 no.5
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• pp.600-607
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• 2018

Polypropylene fibers, while having many advantages such as light weight, sweat fast drying, water-repellent, drainage, thermal insulation, anti-static property has a drawback in dyeing. In recent years, the development of dyeable polypropylene fibers has expanded its value in the textile market. The purpose of this study is to fabricate composite spun yarns using polypropylene, acrylic, rayon and wool and to analyze tensile properties, uniformity characteristics, bending properties, hairiness, and surface shape according to the degree of fineness and blended ratio. The specimens consisted of 100% polypropylene spun yarn pp30, pp40 and ppa(pp/acrylic), ppr(pp/rayon), ppw(pp/wool), 5 altogether sed in this study. The results of the study are as follows. The breaking strength of polypropylene spun yarn blended with rayon and acrylic was higher than that of 100% polypropylene spun yarn. The polypropylene spun yarn is higher the fineness been shown to decrease the breaking strength and elongation. The bending properties of polypropylene spun yarns were in the order of ppa>ppr>pp40>pp30>ppw. The unevenness of ppw, ppr, and ppa was higher than pp40 and pp30. With the exception of ppw with crimp properties, pp30 and pp40 were found to have a hairiness index greater than ppr, ppa. In the microscopic photographs of polypropylene spun yarn, pp30, which had the highest hairiness index, was found to have a thick yarn and a large number of hairs, and ppw had hairs of 3 mm or more protruding elongated outwardly.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.7
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• pp.88-102
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• 2010

The research examines the characteristics of the sewing methods used for women's Jeogori in modern Korea. The results are following. In the 1920s sewing of shoulder parts was started, and in the 1930s sewing by hand had reduced by dissemination of sewing-machine, and in the 1940s the Som-jeogori declined by the matter of economic and sanitary issues. In the 1950s four-fold sewing emerged, and during the 1960s the gause-lined triple-layered Jeogori was in fashion, and in the 1970s the Ggaeggi-jeogori and much elaborated Jeogori became in vogue. The characteristics of the sewing methods are changed by following factors. First, the dissemination of sewing-machine in the 1930's enabled fast and precise sewing of Jeogori which reduced the rate of clothes mending and the production period. Second, by development of washing method, the dry cleaning became common, resulting cleaner washing and better preservation. Third, introduction of western clothes gave rise to modernized Han-bok which was changed into practical and simple one. Fourth, by the introduction of synthetic textile and industry development, Jeogori with no armhole line or right Seop line was made using wide selection of textiles. Fifth, in 1945~60s, women learned' good wife and wise mother' education and the use of sewing machine in school. The clothing lifestyle affected the sewing method's change, for example, clothes sewed strongly by sewing machine not to take clothes apart, and attaching button instead of Go-reum to save clothes.

• The Korean Fashion and Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.4
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• pp.620-629
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• 2013

This study examines the rustling sound characteristics of electrospun nanofiber web laminates according to layer structures. This study assesses mechanical properties and frictional sounds (such as SPL); in addition, Zwicker's psychoacoustic parameters (such as Loudness (Z), Sharpness (Z), Roughness (Z), and Fluctuation strength (Z)) were calculated using the Sound Quality Program (ver.3.2, B&K, Denmark). The result determined how to control these characteristics and minimize rustling sounds. A total of 3 specimens' frictional sound (generated at 0.63 m/s) was recorded using a Simulator for Frictional Sound of Fabrics (Korea Patent No. 10-2008-0105524) and SPLs were analyzed with a Fast Fourier Transformation (FFT). The mechanical properties of fabrics were measured with a KES-FB system. The SPL value of the sound spectrum showed 6.84~58.47dB at 0~17,500Hz. The SPL value was 61.2dB for the 2-layer PU nanofiber web laminates layered on densely woven PET(C1) and was the highest at 65.1dB for the 3-layer PU nanofiber web laminates (C3). Based on SPSS 18.0, it was shown that there is a correlation between mechanical properties and psychoacoustic characteristics. Tensile properties (LT), weight (T), and bending properties (2HB) showed a high correlation with psychoacoustic characteristics. Tensile linearity (LT) with Loudness (Z) showed a negative correlation coefficient; however, weight (T) with Sharpness (Z) and Roughness (Z), and bending hysteresis (2HB) with Roughness (Z) indicated positive correlation coefficients, respectively.