• 패션비즈니스
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• 제2권4호
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• pp.93-101
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• 1998

Knit products which had been limited only to underwear, recently became popularized, fashionized and highly classified covering even outer garments such as sportswear like golfwear, woman's dress, and man' s suit. As fashion cycle is getting shorter and the more a nation advanced prefers knit to woven fabrics knit industry has a very bright prospect, particularly woman's knit which is sensitive to fashion can be said as a fashion product with high value added. This study is to grasp the physical properties of stitch which are fundamental to the development of knit products. For this purpose, 2/20s of 100% wool were woven by the author of this study to basic plain stitch, rib stitch, varied transfer stitch, and float stitch on a SEMASEIKI cross knitter 7G to test the physical properties, and the result was as follows; 1. As for the relation between knit stitch and rate of extension recovery, rate of extension recovery was higher in the course direction than in the wale direction of three stitches except transfer stitch; rib stitch showed the highest rate of extension recovery in the course direction while float stitch showed the highest rate of extension recovery in the wale direction. 2. As for the relation between knit stitch and bursting strength elastic rib stitch showed higher bursting strength to indicate elasticity is an important factor of bursting strength and float stitch showed higher bursting strength too to indicate that the floating yarn on the surface plays a role of support. 3. As for the relation between knit stitch and air permeability perforated transfer stitch showed the lowest air permeability to prove that the size of perforation affects on the air permeability a great deal. 4. As for the relation between knit stitch and warmth retaining rib stitch through two lined needle bar showed the highest degree. The reason the warmth of perforated transfer stitch didn't decrease much was because the perforation wasn't big enough and content of air increased from the unevenness of the perforated parts through stitch variation. Based upon this result, each stitch can be characteristically summarized as follows; plain stitch showed a stable condition of knit cloth in four kinds of physical property test. And rib stitch is proper to tighten the edge of sleeve or clothe making use of its excellent extension recovery and to make socks for the highest bursting strength and warmth retaining. In the case of transfer stitch, seasonable designs can be taken by controlling the size of loop. Considering the pleasantness, underwear should be made of stitches with good air permeability float stitch was revealed to have color and pattern effects and a great bursting strength. This study has limitations in the aspect that it dealed with a small part of various knit stitches and the items of physical property test were not enough. The author of this study hopes that further studies would make deeper understandings about knit stitch based on more varied stitches and physical property tests ultimately to contribute to the development of fashionable designs proper to maximize the usage, function and originality.

• 마케팅과학연구
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• 제20권1호
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• pp.15-26
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• 2010

由于生产的全球化以及国家之间的文化交流, 东方元素越来越吸引世界的眼球. 在时装界, 一个时装设计师的文化背景往往可以催生新颖的设计理念, 使他卓尔不群. 人们对于东方元素的喜爱, 给传统时装市场带来了巨大的商机, 并且把基于文化的业务拓展到全球时装市场. 然而, 包含韩国传统文化的国际品牌还有待开发. 为了发展有韩国特色的国际品牌, 韩国人首先要在国内服装市场上认同本国文化, 然后才能进军国外市场. 便服非常适合采纳韩国元素, 因为这种衣服有很多用途, 很容易被广泛接受和使用. 而且, 多用途便服和时尚内衣的市场需求越来越大. 尽管便服市场在快速发展, 但是对便服的专门研究尚不多见, 目前在对发展中的现代化传统服装、时尚产品和品牌的研究中, 并不包括对便服的研究. 因此, 本论文调查了韩国的便服市场, 研究了消费者对含有韩国传统时装设计特色的便服的评价. 分析了对于韩国传统时装设计元素有购买意向的先例之间的关系, 并且比较了不同生活群体的消费目标. 产品质量, 零售服务质量, 感受价值以及对拥有韩国传统设计元素的便服的喜好被作为购买意向的先决条件. 同时, 本文设计了一个结构方程模型, 用于探讨它们之间的关系以及它们对购买意图的影响. 产品质量和市场营销中的零售服务质量结合在一起, 成为影响人们对韩国特色便服的偏好和价值感知的因素. 而且, 偏好和价值感知对购买意向的影响可以用同一模型来检验. 通过网上调查系统由女性消费者完成了一共357份的自填式问卷, 并制定了一份调查样本人群的生活方式、对于产品和销售服务的标准、对于韩国特色便服的价值感知、偏好以及购买意向的调查问卷. 此外, 问卷还将调查便服的采购和使用行为, 以便检验韩国便服的市场地位. 并且使用描述性分析, 因素分析, 聚类分析来分析数据, 以及使用AMOS 7.0.来进行方差分析和建立结构方程模型. 对于韩国便服市场地位的调查结果显示, 在我们的样本人群中大多数消费者都购买了便服. 便服在目前被认为是在家里穿的衣服, 是消费者比较而言投入较低的衣服. 在调查中显示, 大多数消费者每年仅仅购买2到3次便服, 花费在10美元以下. 购买便服的消费者们的生活方式共有四类: 传统价值导向的生活方式, 品牌影响的生活方式, 追求休闲的生活方式以及健康导向的生活方式, 这四类共计有12个项目. 基于这些生活方式要素, 便服消费者们又可以分为两类: 安乐派和保守派. 文章估量了对含有韩国传统时尚设计元素的便服的购买行为各组成部分之间的关系, 产品质量和零售服务质量都会影响到购买便服的偏好和价值感知. 这个研究结论证明, 高质量的产品和零售服务会对便服形成积极的优先效应. 价值感知和对便服的偏好会对购买意图产生积极的影响. 这个结果表明, 对便服所含有的韩国传统时尚设计因素的强烈偏好和价值感知能增强购买意图. 在两种不同生活方式的群体(即安乐派和保守派)的模型比较中, 结果显示产品质量和零售服务质量对安乐派群体的偏好和感知价值都有积极影响. 然而, 对保守派来说, 只有零售服务质量对偏好和购买意图有积极的影响. 由于安乐派对购买意图显示出更重大的影响, 包含韩国传统时尚设计因素的便服品牌应该关注安乐派的这些特征. 然而, 保守派对包含韩国传统时尚设计因素的便服在偏好和购买意图的关系中显得更强. 因此对包含韩国传统时尚设计因素的便服品牌来说, 它应该把重点放在如何激发保守群体消费者对便服的积极偏爱上. 这些结果提供了关于韩国便服消费者生活方式的信息, 也对那些计划进入韩国便服市场的时尚品牌, 尤其是那些与现行研究样本相似的, 目标为女性消费者的时尚品牌提供了有用的信息. 这一研究也为便服品牌和那些打算创造含有韩国传统时尚因素的高价值品牌提供了策略和市场洞察力. 考虑到不同生活方式群体的类型和便服或传统时尚商品之间的关系, 品牌设计者和市场策划人员可以运用这一研究成果作为市场定位, 目标设定, 以及市场销售策略的一个参考.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제6권1호
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• pp.137-154
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• 2002

It's not easy to renew old brand of over 50 years history to the tastes of new consumer of our time. Most of national brands that has a history of some 20 years in Korea have strove for continuation and growth of brand to no avails, which can be taken as a good example of current situation. For instance, C company, one of the National brand of US which has a history of 51 years, has made its position secure as a fashion group and based itself on a sound foundation by establishing new marketing strategy and completing successful brand renewal in the process of strategic M&A with Italian company. Those successful marketing strategies are as follows. 1) they regarded both market and consumer oriented marketing activity as company's highest priority strategy and put great emphasis upon concentration on target market and reestablishment of brand image of business casual wear. 2) Setting up and operating planning team composed of merchandizer alone in Milano, they set the direction of plan on the basis of concentrated research on potential item in market according to thorough market research done by buying office in Korea, branch office in Hong Kong and buyer in US prior to blueprint planning for season. 3) Great emphasis was placed on business which focused on intensive presentation of basic key item for apparel career women who are main consumer group in the midium-low prices market in US and on supplementation of size and color. they named this line 'collectibles' and helped their customer develop their own clothes plan without worrying about the change of color and fabric by supporting same fabric and color throughout the year and enabled them to add variation easily by supplementing new trend item. 4) Company set black as a main color that lots of apparel career women find easy to care and to express their own image and presented them with pebble which belongs to navy and beige and added fashion color such as wine and brown etc as season goes by. They constructed basic line in order for their customers to coordinate purchased item with new one or to add them to present collection, and to achieve efficient sale by setting up strategy which allows this cross coordination and changing pattern occasionally. 5) Though basic jacket for 99$, short slim skirt for 49$ are products within midium-low prices range, in the material planning stage aiming at production of item that has both resonable function appealing to consumer and is fashionable, synthetic material had to be used as a main source due to price competitiveness. Despite this situation, considering comfortable sense of fit and refined drape of silhouette that has no sign of cheap material, whole collectible line was divided into two items, which contributed to reduction of cost. In case of material that is composed of triacetate and polyester in 70 to 30 ratio, was used up to 4 million yard, which allowed drastic curtailment of cost accompanied by concentration. In case of 'collectibles' line, using Korean material mainly, C company chose to have their product sewed in Southeast Asian countries where transportation is well developed and both productivity and quality verified by operating global production system which aiming at cutdown of cost through outsourcing production from the country where labor cost is low and getting finished product. Polarization between present consumers telling us that consumers with the mind of middle classes in the past no longer exists between consumers who seek after only fine article of highest quality and wise consumers who are sensible enough to judge bubble on correlation between price and quality. To cope with this change in new consumer mind, apparel makes changing their policy so as to produce item that has reasonable quality and falls within affordable price range anywhere in the world. and they're striving to get out of difficult situation by operating global marketing strategy which stresses separation of planning, production and sale and sensibility of fashion shared worldwide. The marketing strategy of C company can be exemplified as a successful one.