• 복식
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• 제57권1호
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• pp.50-65
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• 2007

Clothes and human body are inseparably related. Aesthetic consciousness of the body determines the form of clothing, reflecting the time and culture as well as the individual and society. Clothes can even reorganize the meaning of the body, while transcending their instrumental functions of protecting, expanding and deforming the body. Using 'body' to analyze the clothing form, my study develops a framework by which to classify the planarization of the body in Japanese avant-garde fashion. In order to inquire the formative style and aesthetic values expressed in Japanese avant-garde fashion, my study examines subjects from the discourse on the body to the fashion collections of the 20th and 21st century. The results of the study are as follows. Japanese avant-garde fashion focuses on a planarization of the body which questions the three dimensional construction of the body in more conventional clothing system. Un-structured, variable space posited between the body and clothes, participation of the wearer, attention to recent technology and material, and absence of gender identification characterizes the planarization of the body in Japanese avant-garde fashion. The absence of body in fashion stresses a will-to-form rather than mere bodily proportion and structure, which explores trans-extensity that goes beyond the boundary of the body Ultimately, planarization of the body betrays the correspondence between signifiant and signifie in sartorial convention. Aesthetic ideal of the body is visualized in the form of a dress. Some clothes prioritize the body, particularly the feminine bodily curves, while others focus on the clothing itself as abstract and sculptural forms. Fashion continues to explore forms and images that transcend the traditional representations of the clothed body. As a type of intimate architecture, fashion always mediates the dialogue between clothes and body, or fashion and figure. My study suggests a framework to analyze bodily representation in Japanese avant-garde fashion, focusing on the relationship between the clothes and body.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제40권4호
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• pp.600-614
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• 2016

This study specifies the definition and characteristics of fake fashion by categorizing cases through an analytical framework that uses the concept of simulacre, which is one of the theories that explains the reproduction of images and symbols in a modern consumer society. The presentation stages of modern fake fashion based on Baudrillard's concept of simulacre are as follows: Stage 1 focuses on the realistic imitation of the original, Stage 2 maintains a similarity with the original while transforming through the distortion of shape or visual perception, Stage 3 is the reality of the original which has become significantly vague and actively involves the designer's creativity, and Stage 4 forms a new value and an independent aura beyond reproducing the original. The presentation techniques of modern fake fashion viewed in the concept of simulacre can be classified into optical illusions by reproduction, use of a fake object, use of unusual shapes, and re-signifying through borrowing. As a result of applying the collected cases to the analytical framework, image reproduction in Stage 1 with imitative nature is a counterfeit that cannot be regarded as fake fashion, and fake fashion in Stage 4 (that can be referred to as simulacre) is fashion with symbolic and multiple meanings with new and creative designs. Modern fake fashion analyzed in the concept of simulacre transforms or reproduces the preexisting original with the purpose of merely creating original designs as well as acts as a new symbolic signal that creates a new aura and sets a trend with a message.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제37권2호
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• pp.138-150
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• 2013

This study investigates changes in body size (as well as fit) before/after wear, according to the breast and brassiere type. To offer producers basic data on how to develop excellent brassieres, we accordingly conducted preliminary research on 183 20's women. The research revealed that breast-related size and fit change by about 10%; however, the upper length and inner length of breasts decreases. The fit of domed ones is the best and the fit of the elongated ones is the worst; subsequently, a closer representation of the ideal breast leads to a better fit to wear.

• 복식
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• 제40권
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• pp.137-147
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• 1998

Fahion as the form construction of decon-structivistic architecture was analyzed by dividing it into the intrinsic aspect and the formal aspect through an introduction of three characteristic architectural principles into fashion. Intrinsic deconstructivistic fashion as the construction of architectural form has the mixurte of genders both in a form of transvestic and in a form of genderless look as dualism, and can be characterized by pluralistic nationlism with the emergence of the Third World alienated from the international society, and so forth. Difference and the prefixes of dis-and de- are schizophrenic mystic illusionism, chance effect and the differance of space and time and is supporting Jacques Derrida's chiasmus that is the perspective of collage in painting and the multiple observation of collage in painting and the multiple observation point as the play of borrowing the surrealistic technique. The formal construction of deconstructivistic fashion the construction of architectural form has intertextuality material, hybridization of items and the blending of modes and another sphere. Trace as icon deconstrucion attains historical analysis. Dis and de in fashion are showing the retrogre-ssion of gravity through decomposition, decon-tinuity and disjunction emerge nonstructural silho-uette, juxtaposition, inversion and replace- ment of underwear and outer garments. Their decentring expression emerged as construction through mixture and repetition as well as overlapping of planes or spaces. And their disjuctive representation appeared in the form of mutual juxtaposition and substitution with the double-side of formal construction in functional terms.

• 복식
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• 제20권
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• pp.137-150
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• 1993

Sonia Delaunay was among the group of avant-garde artists drawn to Paris in the early part of this century who were exploring concepts of art that were felt to capture best the speed and me chanization of the modern world. She believed modernity-and her own attitude toward modern life-could be expressed through the primacy of color in art the dynamic inter-play of its dissonances and harmonies. The metap-hysical implications Delauny felt inherent in this idea made it applicable to all surfaces, and she was compelled to transform the world around her ac-cording to it. She set up a dialogue between fine art and everyday objects and accompplished the transition from representation work to her color theory through her investigation in embroidery and collage. This study is for Sonia Delaunay's field fo work which is close to fine and applied arts. To study Sonia Delaunay's work, I can find some points of her fashion designs. First, Simultaneous, which is to use collage tec-henics such as simultaneous and meterial to com-binate of variety meterial. Seound, Durability which is restoration of mor-dern fashion, Eventhough her work is 60 years old still it is foward to the furture. Imitation of textile which is devdloped by her, always looks new and fresh. Third, The elements of Folklore. Her elements of Russia, it appears on variety colors. Sepecially contemporary cloths has elements of folklore, we should use it and made it to suituble to contem-porary fashion of our country. For the furture, we need more study how to apply pictorial meterial of art into fashion design.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제29권4호
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• pp.603-615
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• 2021

The aim of this study was to analyze the semantic network structure of keywords and the visual composition of images extracted from Instagram in relation to the multi-persona phenomenon with in fashion imagery, which has recently been attracting attention. To this end, the concept of a 'secondary character', which forms a separate identity from a 'main character' on various social media platforms as well as on the airwaves, was considered as the spread of multi-persona and #SecondaryCharacter on Instagram was investigated. 3,801 keywords were collected after crawling the data using Python and morphological analysis was undertaken using KoNLP. The semantic network structure was then examined by conducting a CONCOR analysis using UCINET and Netdraw to determine the top 50 keywords. The results were then classified into a total of 6 clusters. In accordance with the meaning and context of the keywords included in each cluster, group names were assigned : virtual characters, relationship with the main character, hobbies, daily record, N-job person, media and marketing. Image analysis considered the technical, compositional, and social styles of the media based on Gillian Rose's visual analysis method. The results determined that Instagram uses fashion images that virtualize one's face to produce multi-persona representation s that show various occupations, describe different types of hobbies, and depict situations pertaining to various social roles.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제14권5호
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• pp.701-712
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• 2012

This study examines the various expressions and immanent value of fashion and beauty style based on Craig Owens's Allegory theory. I analyzed four application elements of Borrow, Site Specificity, Accumulation of Strategy, and Hybridization in? Ladygaga's Music Videos. The results are as follows. 'Borrow' presents a kitsch style and playful Pop-art style, transformation of gender from Mini Mouse body suit, telephone headpiece, and can hair. 'Site specificity' presents the temporarity of fashion material through rebirth, aging, natural extinction from the chain over the black jump suit, crime scene tape, and skull-face makeup with masculine style. 'Accumulation of strategy' presents a futuristic chic fashion style from a layered style, retrospective fashion, repetition and duplication in Music Videos. It shows the physical beauty of an Asian warrior style in Poker Face. 'Hybridization' present Cyborg feminism and 'Will of Power' from iPOD LCD glasses and Pyro-Bra. The Pyro-Bra represents how the female body can be used as a weapon in the outfits of Lady Gaga. In addition, Immanent value is as follows. Textual interaction with high art is accomplished through a combination of contemporary social and cultural significance to understand the cultural code and to extend the value. Combined with high culture, popular music genre is accomplished through musical appreciation by a woman in fashion styling and sensual pleasures of the body as a tool to express a sublime advantage. Fashion style is accomplished by overcoming a self-transcendent body image representation. The way in which mutual coupling dismantling, destruction, and uncertainty is to re-launch the static, with a pluralistic context of Textuality.

• 복식
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• 제57권4호
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• pp.70-80
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• 2007

Clothes and human body are inseparably related. Aesthetic consciousness of the body determines the form of clothing, reflecting the time and culture as well as the individual and society. Clothes can even reorganize the meaning of the body, while transcending their instrumental functions of protecting, expanding and deforming the body. Using 'body' to analyze the clothing form, my study develops a framework by which to classify transfiguration in fashion design. In order to inquire tile formative style and aesthetic values expressed in transfiguration in fashion, my study examines subjects from the discourse on the body to the fashion collections of the late 20th and 21st century. The results of the study are as follows. Transfiguration signifies absence of body which questions the three dimensional construction of the body in more conventional clothing system. Transfiguration is expressed in non-figural forms which implies metaphorical plasticity and abstract extensity. Transfiguration in fashion stresses a will-to-form rather than mere bodily proportion and structure, which explores trans-extensity that goes beyond the boundary of the body. Ultimately, this phase also betrays the correspondence between signifiant and $signifi\acute{e}$ in sartorial convention. Aesthetic ideal of the body is visualized in the form of a dress. Some clothes prioritize the body, particularly the feminine bodily curves, while others focus on the clothing itself as abstract and sculptural forms. Fashion continues to explore forms and images that transcend the traditional representations of the clothed body. As a type of intimate architecture, fashion always mediates the dialogue between clothes and body, or fashion and figure. My study suggests a framework to analyze bodily representation in transfiguration in fashion, focusing on the relationship between the clothes and body.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제26권2호
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• pp.233-250
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• 2018

This study examined images typical to this city and explored ways to develop cultural products using these images. Researchers reviewed literature about fashion cultural products and related previous research, and then conducted a closed-ended survey to analyze universal fashion preferences. For the examination material, such a way was used as information data base and network review inside and outside the country, dissertation screen, and published media including separate volumes. The following are considering points in the developing process. First, the study identified design, color, price, practicality and quality as factors that should be taken into consideration when using the image of Gangneung. In particular, it determined that the image needs to reflect a modern sensibility while maximizing its representation of local culture. Second, Gangneung's symbolic image should incorporate the sea, Gyeongpo, and coffee. In other words, the sea, Gyeongpo, and coffee should receive top symbolic priority. Third, from a development perspective, the most appropriate items for displaying the image include t-shirts, keychains, umbrellas, or other accessories, since these items are easily available in terms of price. In sum, this study highlighted the necessity of reconsidering Gangneung's currents ymbolic image, suggesting that a new image should be developed. Developing a typical fashion cultural product image will enrich Gangneung's cultural industry and the distribution of newly designed products will improve the localeconomy.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제16권5호
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• pp.812-825
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• 2008

This article analyzed fashion representations in France posters, especially the late 19th century France when mass consumption cultures arose. That was analyzed by consumers' sexuality supposed in advertisement contents. Female models mainly figured in posters of the late 19th century France made a role to promote consumption, in which female models were emphasized on fashion, for example, erotic robe, unusual hair style and etc. Posters' type in this period were categorized in three types by presenting style of female body and fashion style. The first were targeting female consumers, and that posters represented bourgeois fashion styles and life styles to clear consumers' social status and to present women's consuming power. The second case was targeting male consumers, and that posters figured female models such as available products. In this case, poster artists emphasized female models' sexualities and used fantasies against eroticism of the legs and feet. And third case was targeting female consumers and males', in this case, two different aspects were required to appealing to consumers. One was to use a female sexuality to appeal for male consumers, the other was to modify female models as transcendental being such like a muse admirable and mysterious, through fashion styles for female consumers. In the late 19th century, female body and fashion were spectacular elements in visual arts specifically. This study clarified representations of female body and fashion in the late 19th century posters according to poster's contents and target consumer's sexuality. This was one of the aspects characterizing early advertisement media.