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A Study on the Stage Costume of 'Sonia Rykiel' - Focusing on the Musical 'Ten Commandments'- (소니아 리키엘'의 무대의상 연구 - 뮤지컬 '십계'를 중심으로 -)

  • Jung, Eun-Suk;Huh, Jung-Sun
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
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    • v.4 no.2 s.8
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    • pp.65-73
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    • 2006
  • Lots of audience turn their eyes upon musical to satisfy various cultural desire. It is popular culture that was watched in culture contents industry. The stage costume which turn audience's eyes in musical the most is the sight art of stage to express visually actor(actress)'s personality, mental state, administrative position, age and the distinction of sex. This study researches designed stage costume which was based on time backgrounds and historical facts of reinvented clothes and its ornaments in Egypt by 'Sonia Rykiel' through musical, 'ten commandments' with special times. We collected home and abroad documentary records, Internet data. Moreover we viewed performance to analyze stage costume and brochure photograph data to study. In consequence the stage costume of musical 'ten commandments' found its way out of traditional clothes and its ornaments largely. We can recognize the stage costume as the most important part in drama by explaining the content on drama as costume through reinvented shape with modern sense and by taking charge of the principal part to lead atmosphere. In addition, thanks to the creative work of designer for stage costume, we can realize important intermediation to make higher artistic value of musical.

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Analysis of Attires and Decorative Features in Formal Context -Emphasis on Formal Attires of Bride and Bridegroom′s Mothers in Families′Wedding photographs- (여성 한복의 형태 및 장식의 변화 분석 -결혼사진에 나타난 신랑, 신부 어머니 복식을 중심으로-)

  • 김재숙;이혜숙
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.26 no.5
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    • pp.675-683
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    • 2002
  • The purposes of the study were to analyze the changes in formal attires and decorative features of middle age Korean women during the last half of 20th century and to find out any significant differences in formal attires according to periods. The study was a documentary research, and data were collected from 344 family wedding photographs by convenient sampling. The statistics used were content analysis, frequency and a time series analysis, and the results were as follows : 1. Four schematic clusters of formal attires were categorized according to skirt(chima) length and width, jacket(jogori) length, motifs and decorative features; simple classic, decorative classic, fashionable, and extravagant fashionable. Simple classic attires were popular until 1960s, the decorative classics were appeared from late 1960s to 1970s, fashionable attires were introduced from the late 1970s and the attires became more luxurious and extravagant until 2000. 2. Color symbolism in couples mothers'attires according to the couples gender - pink or red for the bride's mother and blue or green for groom's mother - was introduced from the late 1970s, and reached the maximum level by the early 1980s but slowly disappeared after the late 1980s. 3. The complete fashion cycle did not exist in the formal attires'change, however, since the Period of data were ranged from 1943 to 2000, the 57 years period may not long enough to measure a complete fashion cycle.

Cross-cultural Observation of Street Fashion of 2006 F/W in London/paris, New York, and Seoul (2006 F/W 런던/파리, 뉴욕, 서울 크로스 컬쳐럴 스트릿 패션 고찰)

  • Kim, Chil-Soon;Cassill, Nancy
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.32 no.12
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    • pp.1939-1949
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    • 2008
  • The purpose of this study was to identify differences or similarities across the ensembles of 2006 F/W fashion trends in the big fashion centers such as Paris, London, New York, and Seoul, by street fashion research. The study focuses on understanding of localized fashion trend in the marketplace. We used photograph observation and analyzed data by SPSS program. We found there is a significant difference in winter outfits at these different global fashion mega cities. Most Korean women were wearing light colored outer jackets and blue jeans were dominant style for pants. The majority of Paris/London, New York and Seoul people on the street were wearing wool/wool like coat. Padded coats were worn more by New Yorkers than by people in Seoul. For the bottom, there is a similarity between Paris/London, and New York City, in that skinny pants were popular. Koreans were wearing skinny pants mostly, but the percentage of mini skirts/shorts was also higher than any other cities. We found that the cross-cultural fashion mega trend is similar in clusters, but there is a slight difference of trend in clothing color, style and design details, and accessories by localized fashion cities. Not only direct observation but also identification of cultural characteristics and consumer behavior through the years will bring much more contributions to apparel industries.

The Change of Korean Men's Pants Design from 1962 to 1998 - Based on the Content Analysis of Magazine Advertisements and Pictorials -

  • Kwon, Hae-Sook
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.10 no.6
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    • pp.52-62
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    • 2006
  • The purpose of this study is to investigate the changes of modern Korean men's pants design from 1962 to 1998 by reviewing fashion magazine advertisements and pictorials. For theoretical study, the characteristics and the importance of apparel advertisements and the changes of modern Korean men's fashion trend were reviewed. For sample selection, first, 932 pictorials of men';s wear designs from Joongang Magazine, Shin Dong-A, Bokjangwolbo, Meot, Men's Life, WWD, and SFAA's photograph album, published from 1962 to 1998 were selected and then excluded some samples that could not clearly identify the pants design. Content analysis method was used to analyze the content of magazines and pictorials. The final samples are classified into pattern, color, length, silhouette, and existence or non-existence of turn-up. Frequency and $x^2$-test were conducted using a SAS statistics package to analyse the data. The results were as follows. ; (1) Solid pattern was the most prevailed throughout the last four decades and followed by stripe, check, the others, abstract, dot and floral. There is no significant difference in the type of men's pants pattern between each decade. (2) It showed a significant difference in colors of men's pants between decades. The colors in men's wear are divided into nine categories and the order of occurrence are as follows; multi-color is the most frequently shown and followed by brown, gray, blue, black, green, pink, yellow, and red. More various colors appeared over the period, however, multi color was the most popular in all decades but in the 60s. (3) Full length of pants style occupied more than 96% throughout all four decades. Due to the popularity of sports wear in men's fashion during the 90s, the shorts style appeared not only in sports wear and casual wear but also in suit style. (4) There is a significant difference in silhouette of men's pants between decades. The silhouette of men's pants were divided into four types and their order of occurrence are as follows; basic, baggy, fitted, and loose silhouette. Basic silhouette was the most prevailed throughout the whole four decades. (5) A significant difference was shown in the existence or non-existence of turn-up of men's pants between decades. Non-existence of turn-up of men's pants was the most prevailed throughout the whole four decades.

A Study on Intentions of Tongyeng Ogwangdae Costume : Focused on dialogs (통영오광대 복식의 의도성에 관한 연구 : 대사를 중심으로)

  • Kim, Cho-Young;Kim, Eun-Jung
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.17 no.4
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    • pp.541-549
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    • 2015
  • Korean traditional mask play was done at outdoor to let spectators join the play and take mask at performance and to have disadvantage of poor transfer of dialog to the spectators. Performers transferred dialog directly and/or indirectly by using visual costume, and Tongyeong Ogwangdae with many dialogue expressions concerning the costume made use of proper intention to help spectators understand. In this study, the author watched performance of Tongyeong Ogwangdae to collect and investigate not only image material but also photograph material and to classify intention of the costume into three: First, contents of the dialog were intended to make shape. The costumes of Hongbaek Yangban, Meoktal Yangban and Jorijung of the 2nd section gave spectators contents of the play, and the costume of Halmi Yangban of Nochangtal of the 4th section described dialog of Halmi. Second, dialog had connotative metaphor. The costume of Yeongno of Yeongnotal of the 3rd section symbolized an unfinished dragon, while that of Halmi of Nongchangtal of the 4th section did sacred of Halmi. And, Nongchagtal Ai's costume of the 4th section prayed for value of Ai, richness of the life and fecundity. Third, conflict between characters was intended by indirect media. The costume of Maltukee of metaphor mask of the 2nd section became base of the assertion supporting that Maltukee had better birth history than Yangban had, and the costume of Yeongnoyangban of Yeongnotal of the 3rd section produced conflict at disclosure of identity.

The Improvement and Evaluation of the Flight Suit Pattern to Enhance Movement (동작성 향상을 위한 비행복의 패턴개선 및 평가)

  • Jeon, Eun-Jin;Park, Sei-Kwon;You, Hee-Cheon;Kim, Hee-Eun
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.12 no.5
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    • pp.633-641
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    • 2010
  • The purpose of this study is to evaluate a new flight suit in bilateral ways; subjectively and objectively in the improvements of comfort and mobility. Seven healthy males at the age of twenties volunteered in this wearing test. They were over 177 cm in height and 92-95 cm in chest circumference, which satisfies the M95 Special' size described in the Korean Military Specifications and Standards. The subjective satisfaction was evaluated according to the criteria of ease of donning and doffing, fitness of wear, mobility, space between cloth and body, convenience in using restroom. Subjective satisfaction evaluation says that the best improvement of movement are neck circumference, chest breadth, armscye circumference, waist back length, crotch length, crotch height and body rise. According to the evaluation, improvements of mobility were conspicuous especially in parts of body like neck, breast, waist, back, and arms. When evaluating objective satisfaction, we measured a angle difference in a prescribed standard-grid on a photograph that picked up while the subject performed each motion in front of 10 cm-interval grid. As a result, the motion that had angle difference above 5 degrees were arm stretching and standing on single leg holding at forward or at his side. Bending necks and waist, crouching also had angle difference of over 5 degrees. The improvements are discussed from the viewpoint that the increased ease in parts of armscye circumference and crotch in new flight suit pattern.

A Study on the Characteristics of the Designs on Coptic Textiles of Ancient Egypt

  • Han, Jung-Im
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.15 no.3
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    • pp.112-124
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    • 2011
  • Textile and clothing in Ancient Egypt have carried long history and tradition. Especially, Egyptian textile culture, created mostly by the Copt, has the originality of weaving technology and the artistic beauty of the weaving motifs, making the textiles comparable to modern textiles. The purpose of this study is to research on the characteristics of Coptic textile designs of ancient Egypt and the tunic, a basic garment made of Coptic textiles, and offer materials for the development of the textiles and designs with artistic values which can be shared in the modern era, not just for the research of the relics of the past. Therefore, this study will follow the historical background of Coptic textiles and the process of the development, and look into the distinct features under the categories of material, colors and motifs. In addition, the tunic and its weaving technology will be explained and this will help understand the originality of Coptic textiles. The scope of this study is limited to the period of the 3rd to 12th centuries when the Egyptian weaving technologies advanced dramatically and many of the ancient Egyptian textiles discovered from the grave goods dates back, the research methode of the tunic as well as books published at home and abroad, research paper and photograph works. The textiles had developed along the Egyptian history which was influenced by different cultures such as Greek, Roman, pagan, Christian, and later, Islamic. For the textiles, they used a variety of pictorial motifs including Greek goddesses, pastoral scenes related to the Nile River and animals, human figures, geometrical figures and Christian icons. They are symbolic, natural, and mythological characters, and this explains that the world views and religions of the weavers influenced the development of specific motifs. Coptic textiles was used to make a tunic, a simple straight-sided gown without sleeves worn by men and women and was woven in a combination of linen plain weave and woolen tapestry weave for a tunic. Not only the excellence of the weaving technologies and the beauty of the colors used in the textiles, but also the diversity of the textures through weaving, embroidery, and knotting are detected in Coptic textiles.

The Influence of the Interval of Polka Dots on the Image of Clothes - Focused on One-Piece Dress - (물방울무늬의 간격이 의복이미지에 미치는 영향 - 원피스드레스를 중심으로 -)

  • Choi, Hye-Won;Ryoo, Sook-Hee
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.9 no.3
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    • pp.278-285
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    • 2007
  • The purpose of this study is the image of clothing according to the change of the dots' interval was analyzed and its influence on the formation of the image of polka dots clothing was investigated. White waterdrop patterns were designed on the 12 kinds of black texture using Photoshop and CAD program in regular arrangement of diamond figure, composed of white waterdrop(0.5 cm, 1.0 cm, 1.5 cm and 2 cm in diameter) and interval(diameter : interval - 1 : 1, 1 : 2, 1 : 4). Applying above specification, the photograph stimulus of 12 kinds of X-line one-piece dress with wide square neckline and without sleeve or detailed ornament was presented on a screen in the same size as when putting it on. The image of polka dots clothes was investigated by questionnaire survey. The object of the study was 320 females aged between 16 and 29. Factor analysis, one-way ANOVA, Scheff$\acute{e}$ verication and two-way ANOVA using SPSS 10.0 were carried out for data analysis. The research finding are as follows. First, the image of polka dots clothing consists of 4 factors as aesthetics, brevity, dynamism and lightweight. Secondly, the interval of the dot has a great influence on the formation of the image of polka dots clothing. Lastly, the evaluations of the image of polka dots clothing were different depending on the age and physical image, the personal characteristics of the object of investigation.

A Study on Furniture Patterns Appealing to Emotions (감성에 소구(訴求)하는 가구조형의 패턴 연구)

  • Kim, Doo-Young;Kim, Myeong-Tae
    • Journal of the Korea Furniture Society
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    • v.25 no.4
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    • pp.338-344
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    • 2014
  • Modern furniture design is advancing by putting value on individual sensitivity. Accordingly, this study will focus on optical art, which can give various changes in people's sensitivity. Optical art was actively applied in various fields of image, photograph, fashion, textile, accessory and interior from the 1950s till the 1960s. Optical art realized by Victor Vasarely (1908~) opened a new trend in art by accurately realizing concise and precise expressions. This study analyzed the impact of pattern expression on sensitivity in optical art and suggested a method, which can spatiotemporally maximize the emotional change by combining optical art with the form of furniture. Modern furniture design is changing toward the direction of fitting to the propensity and emotional taste of an individual. Accordingly, this study analyzed the emotional expression felt in the furniture modeling works featured by concise, straight and standardized rectangular shape. Based on the result of analysis, this study would like to suggest a method to utilize optical pattern as a means for emotional design, with which people are able to perform various emotional expressions while keeping the function and form of furniture.

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Study on Manufacturing Technology of Coating Yarns for Awning Fabrics (차양막 직물용 코팅사 제조기술에 관한 연구)

  • Kim, Seung-Jin;Lee, Eun-Ho;Heo, Kyeung;Kim, Hyun-Ah
    • Textile Coloration and Finishing
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    • v.27 no.1
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    • pp.35-49
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    • 2015
  • This paper investigated optimum process conditions of coating yarn for awning fabric. For this purpose, the simulation for processability and yarn quality using SPSS statistics package was carried out, and PP/TPO and PET/PVC coating yarns specimens were made with variation of extruder temperature and feed speed of core yarn on the yarn coating machine for examining simulation result. It was revealed that optimum coating conditions of PP/TPO 1000d coating yarn were extruder temperature $150^{\circ}C$, and core yarn feed speed 400~500m/min. Mechanical property and thermal shrinkage of PP/TPO coating yarn made at this conditions were best and core evenness rates of these coating yarns by yarn compression tester were also superior, which was certified by SEM photograph. In addition, these experimental results were coincided with simulation results. It was found that, in PET/PVC coating yarn, yarn physical properties between 1500d and 1200d coated yarns were not shown any difference, and core evenness rates of these coating yarns were superior. It revealed and concluded that these simulated coating conditions are applicable to production field.