• Title/Summary/Keyword: fashion history

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A Study of Green and Its Imagery in Western Costume

  • Park, Mi-Yeon;Cho, Kyu-Hwa
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.7 no.6
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    • pp.67-75
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    • 2003
  • In fashion history, the color "green" has been used from ancient to modern times constantly. Especially nowadays, the worth of green in fashion is becoming bigger than ever before to express the longing for pure nature. The purpose of this study is to define green's imageries in western costume history. For the basic about green, first of all, this study researched green of origin, effect and costumes in western history, then classified green's imageries. Green's imageries expressed in western costumes can be divided mainly into a 'nature imagery' and a 'religious divinity imagery'. Nature imagery was extended again into 'youth, devil, citizen and ecology image'. Youth image came from the luxurious feature of nature and it was extended again into 'innocent love, virgin and immaturity'. Religious divinity imagery has been represented in the ancient Egypt, Islam and Christian religion. In those cultures, green was considered as a sacred color of Osiris, Mahomet and Holy spirit.

The Characteristics of Men's Cosmetic through the History (역사 속에 나타난 남성 화장의 특성)

  • Kim, Ju-Ae;Lee, Youn-Hee
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
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    • v.2 no.3 s.3
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    • pp.96-101
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    • 2004
  • This study suggests the basic resources for men's cosmetic which shows in history. Because not only ancient chief but also modern French noble men made up in the area where succeeded the traditional national cosmetic, when it was seen through historic or world, the men's cosmetic was generated and was more luxurious and presence than women. But since the French revolution, men was limited the collection of fashion, also the luxurious cloth and cosmetic disappeared. It was 1960s that men's cosmetic based rock musicians reappeared. And then, rock musicians made up luxuriously. The early cosmetic of rock musicians began from the protest's meaning for old fashioned value and fixed society. But gradually, it was changed the style that valued appearance's beauty. In the past, movie star's hair style and cloth were the basic fashion, but now the sportsmen are recognized heroes and their cosmetic is prevailing. Today, the basic meaning of men's presence fashion is that men and women's each role and self expression is allowed and appearance's decoration showed from sex roles disappeared. Men is limited body's beautiful expression and collective range but they fluently express each self imagination through work, special hobby, female attire and drag queen. From various men's beautiful expression, we will know that human beings want a society which is recognizing different self expressions.

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Study on the Femininity and the Ideal Beauty of Body Implied in the fashion and the Anti-fashion Movement in the Victorian Period (I) (빅토리아시대 유행복식과 반(反)유행복식 운동에 나타난 여성성자 인체미에 관한 연구 (I))

  • 김정선;김민자
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.51 no.2
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    • pp.169-180
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    • 2001
  • This paper is intended to explore femininity, the ideal beauty of body and the features in fashion pursued in the fashion system and the Anti-Fashion Movement in the Victorian period, on which the modern fashion is based. For the informative facts needed in this paper, books on history, fashion history, feminism, art history of aestheticism and tole ideal beauty of body are referred to. On the part I of this paper, the femininity and the ideal beauty of body implied in the fashion system in the Victorian period will be reviewed. following are the conclusion : First, in the Victorian period, the value of femininity is put on the body of female by the discrimination of sex divided in two. Consequently, the characteristics of femininity mainly include dependence, passiveness, emotion, beauty, maternity, innocence, and purity. To emphasize the function of reproduction as primary duty and nature of female, the ideal beauty of body is represented in the form of Venus Naturalis, which symbolizes the fertility. And the external form of this body is expressed in slum waist line, ample busom and hip in fashion. Second, the features of this fashion are classified into three categories by their internal value : images of subordinate female, sensual female and maternal female 1) The image of subordinate female is expressed by concealment of legs, tightening the upper part of the body in corset and restriction on action by the crinoline 2) The image of sensual female is revealed in brazing colors and decoration, excessive exposure of the upper part of the body and hip by means of bustle. 3) The image of maternity is expressed in swollen skirt of crinoline, oval bustle silhouette metaphoring the extended womb resulted from pregnancy.

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What′s Textile and Costume Conservation\ulcorner

  • Park, Sunae -Evans
    • Proceedings of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association Conference
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    • 2004.06a
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    • pp.9-10
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    • 2004
  • ㆍ Exhibitions at National Museum of American History (NMAH) of Smithsonian Institution (SI) ㆍ Textile Conservation Lab at NMAH ㆍ Concept of Conservation, Preservation, and Restoration(omitted)

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The Color Aesthetic Characteristics of Heian Period Expressed in Japanese Contemporary Fashion (일본 현대 패션에 나타난 헤이안(평안(平安)) 시대의 색미학적 특성)

  • Masuda, Yoshiko;Chae, Keum-Seok;Eum, Jung-Sun
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
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    • v.4 no.4 s.10
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    • pp.7-15
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    • 2006
  • Japan's modern fashion, which already became distinguished in the world fashion market, creates originality by identifying its own color as well as shape and details from its tradition. The purpose of this study was to draw the results of examining the perceived meanings of color revealed in the culture, arts and clothing color of Heian period in Japan and searching them in contemporary Japanese fashion. The scope of study was the perceived meaning of color in Heian period and Japanese contemporary fashion. In the methodologies, the literature and the empirical study focused on Heian's culture, including art history, ethnology, and the history of clothing and the contemporary fashion collection. Japan's original middle colors and intermediate colors began to be created in Heian period. The color aesthetic characteristics of Heian period appeared the beauty of compound color, layered color, overlapped color in Japanese contemporary fashion.

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A Survey On Korean Clothing and Textiles in Nineties(1990-1998) - Focused On The Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles and The Journal of the Korean Society of Costume- (90년대(1990-1998)한국의류학 연구의 현황 -한국의류학회지와 한국복식학회지를 중심으로-)

  • Kim, Chung-Ho
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.46
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    • pp.133-142
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    • 1999
  • The purpose of this study was to investigate trends of subject matter emphasis in clothing and textiles and to show the future directions to cooperate the fashion & textiles business and college. The data were included clothing and textiles related reasarch articles published in two professional jorunals from 1990 through 1998. The identified 1131 articles with clothing and textiles subject-matter emphasis were categorized in six areas: history of costume textiles design and aesthetics social-psychological aspect of clothing fashion merchandising. The results were as follows: 1. The number of each area research was ranked as follows history of costume(231-20.4%) textiles(221-19.5%) design and aesthetics(198-17.5%) social-psychological aspect of clothing(183-16%) fashion merchandising(169-15%) clothing construction(129-11%) 2. In the area of history of costume most of research have been published through Journal of Korean Society of Costume (197 out of 231. 85%). Especially history of korean costume was the most dominant area(154 out of 231.67%) 3. In the area of textiles most of research have been published through Journal of the Korean society of Clothing and Textiles(209 out of 221.95%) 4. Fashion design and aesthetics area was getting increased remarkably(ranking 3) as compared with preceding study(ranking 6) 5. Nineties' research(1990-1998 1131) has been a significant growth in terms of the number of research as compared with preceding study(1977-1989. 346)

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STUDY ON FEMINITY AND THE IDEAL BEAUTY OF BODY IMPLIED IN THE FASHION AND THE ANTI-FASHION MOVEMENT IN THE VICTORIAN PERIOD (II) (빅토리아시대 유행복식과 반유행복식 운동에 나타난 여성성과 인체미에 관한 연구 (II))

  • 김정선;김민자
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.51 no.6
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    • pp.5-24
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    • 2001
  • This paper is intended to explore femininity the ideal beauty of body and the features in fashion pursued in the Fashion system and the Anti-Fashion Movement in the Victorian period, on which the modern fashion is based. For the informative facts needed in this paper, books on history, fashion history, feminism, art history of aestheticism and the ideal beauty of body are referred to. On the part Ⅱ of this paper, the femininity and the ideal beauty of body implied in the Aesthetic Movement and Rational Dress Movement as the anti-fashion movement in the Victorian period will be reviewed. Following are the conclusion : First, the works in Aesthetic Movement mainly include the image of sensual female. The essence of femininity is categorized by cultural value, poetic spirit. appetite for sex and self-expression. The ideal beauty of body pursued in this movement is the beauty of immatured body, which means rejection of maternity as well as appetite for sex in the form of metaphor of the power and enthusiasm of female. The features of Aesthetic Movement emphasize the image of sensual and characteristic woman. These features are expressed in the natural waist line and the vertical H silhouette of high waist, natural exposure of body by means of drapery, simplicity and decency by design without fixed forms and seemingly faded colors. Second, Rational Dress Movement attempted to evaluate the femininity in a different way and ultimately pursued masculinity. Therefore, morality, liberty, intelligence, spirituality, self-control, willingness, which had been believed to exclusively belong to male, are added to the categories of femininity. The ideal beauty of body is expressed in the form of Venus Coelestic which is refined and strong. This symbolizes woman's freeing from the fate of reproduction and subordinate relationship with male, morality, decision of one's own and willingness. The features of Rational Dress Movement represent the image of strong-willed and moral woman in its internal meaning. The features of its fashions represent the concealment of the body, emphasis on activeness in pants without decoration and simplicity in its external form. All these features resulted from the pursuit of masculinity.

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A Study on Creative Fashion Design by Visualization of Knowledge -Focusing on Gucci Collection by ATTA Evaluation Items- (지식의 시각화에 의한 창의적 패션디자인 연구 -ATTA 평가항목에 의한 구찌컬렉션을 중심으로-)

  • Kim, Minji
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.21 no.4
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    • pp.90-104
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    • 2017
  • In a rapidly changing fashion design world, creative ideas are always required. Knowledge has been created as an art, exhibiting a new imagination that surpasses reality, while being visualized from the past. The purpose of this study is to derive types of visualization of knowledge for continuous creation of fashion design. The study consists of literature and empirical studies. ATTA, a creativity evaluation method made by Torrance applied for analyzing of Gucci fashion design collections from 2016-2017. Creativity of the Gucci collection by ATTA evaluation items are that first, a vivid idea was revealed through collection history, myths and animal and plants, second, conceptual incongruity is in the composition of the garment, third, provocative questions are the symbolism of the meaning of the text, fourth, different perspectives derive a new formative beauty through the synthesis of twisted elements, fifth, abstraction is a symbolic expression of animals and plants, sixth, synthesis is a mixture of various materials and techniques by plural inspiration, seventh, context, it is developed as a design accompanied by stories of history and myth and eighth, fantasy is fictitious animals and animals and detail. In addition, formativeness of fashion design by visualization of this knowledge was extracted with contamination, symbolism, enjoyment and fabrication. Visualization of the knowledge is expected to be used as a strategy to attract ongoing ideas for creative fashion designs.