• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제4권1호
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• pp.64-70
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to know the change of somatic characteristics according to the time. To find out the change of body type of the early twenties who were in 1990 and 1999, the anthropometric and the photographic measurements of the two periods were compared respectively. T-test was applied and the figure of body frame and lateral body type were analyzed. By comparing the anthropomentric measurements of 1999 with 1990, it was known that the proportion of lower half of body increased and the legs and arms became longer. The shape of bust was slightly centered and the angle of shoulder decreased. From the analysis of the photographic measurements and the comparison the body type of 1999 with that of 1990, the tendency of change in upper body was to bend backward and the ratio of straight type increased in 1999.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제6권1호
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• pp.71-82
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to correctly understand the costume of Qing dynasty in the court painting. The starting point of this study was that the painting typically reflects the cultural values, social significations, costume and aesthetic outlook of that period when the paintings were done. Based on this regard, this study analyzed the costume of figure paintings in the court painting of the Qing dynasty that complied and edited by the Palace Museum. The court dress of Qing dynasty represented not only the spiritual world of Manchu tribes but also the influences of Chinese traditional culture. The court dresses of Kangxi and Qianloug showed definitely the luxury of life of Qing court. The everyday dress of Qing dynasty reflected the nomadic environments and it was very simple. The hunting dress of Qing dynasty was very developed and also represented horse riding and hunting activities of their traditional life. The ladies of Qing dynasty enjoyed to dress the costume of old Chinese style. The appearance of noble women was fragile and slim.

• 복식
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• 제54권1호
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• pp.109-123
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• 2004

In this study, the fashion trend after the 1990s and the characteristics of fashion in the postmodernistic viewpoint that mainly effected fashion were observed, and the characteristics of fashion illustration expression was observed in the viewpoint of its link. It can be seen that mutually close characteristics are mutually linked. As the result of this study, the characteristics of fashion illustration can be categorized into three areas. and the sub-concepts are as following. The first category is the pursuit of feminine beauty of individual multi-dimension. This includes- 1) retro feminine beauty; 2) fetishistic and ecstatic feminine beauty; 3) mixed composition genderless (mixed composition style. ageless style and raceless style): and 4) beauty of body deconstruction and reconstruction (deformation due to partial transformation, change into animalization, mechanization and spirituelization. and beautification of crudeness). The second is the intentional deviation of expression and production technique. This includes-1) deviation from traditional perspective; 2) deviation from composition concept: and 3) breaking away from the existing material and expression technique of material. The third is the pursuit of authority-rejection form of expression. This is an area that should be noticed in the fashion illustration expression of the 1990s, as it shows the most diverse phenomenon. The sub-concepts of this category include- 1) separation of art 2) minimalism (minimalism in structure and production method); 3) flatness; 4) completion of incompletion; 5) accidentalism; 6) sportive;7) absence of figure; 8) intentional childishness 9) story development; 10) techno mechanism and cyber character; and 11) animation style.

• 복식
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• 제56권7호
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• pp.126-141
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• 2006

Clothes and human body are inseparably related. Aesthetic consciousness of the body determines the form of clothing, reflecting the time and culture as well as the individual and society. Clothes can even reorganize the meaning of the body, while transcending their instrumental functions of protecting, expanding and deforming the body. Using 'body' to analyze the clothing farm, my study develops a framework by which to classify the representation of the body in fashion focusing on the representation of physicality. In order to inquire the formative style and aesthetic values expressed in representing body in fashion, my study examines subjects from the 14th century European costumes to fashion collections of the 20th century. In fashion, representation of the body is visually analogous to the ideal body shape and structure, including a realistic presentation of the body as well as reflection of aesthetic ideals. Representation of physicality refers to structural designs and elastic fabrication. Structural designs appeared in tailoring and bias-cut draping, as well as in stretchy clothes such as Lycra body suit and knit garments that highlights the body structure and movements of the body joints. In representing physicality in fashion, clothing forms reflect body silhouette and each body parts. Therefore, the shape of clothes (signifiant) corresponds to the anatomy and movement of the body ($signifi\'{e}$) in pursuit of aptness. Aesthetic ideal of the body is visualized in the form of a dress. Some clothes prioritize the body, particularly the feminine bodily curves, while others focus on the clothing itself as abstract and sculptural forms. Fashion continues to explore forms and images that transcend the traditional representations of the clothed body. As a type of intimate architecture, fashion always mediates the dialogue between clothes and body, or fashion and figure. My study suggests a framework to analyze bodily representation in fashion, focusing on the relationship between the clothes and body.

• 복식
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• 제57권1호
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• pp.50-65
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• 2007

Clothes and human body are inseparably related. Aesthetic consciousness of the body determines the form of clothing, reflecting the time and culture as well as the individual and society. Clothes can even reorganize the meaning of the body, while transcending their instrumental functions of protecting, expanding and deforming the body. Using 'body' to analyze the clothing form, my study develops a framework by which to classify the planarization of the body in Japanese avant-garde fashion. In order to inquire the formative style and aesthetic values expressed in Japanese avant-garde fashion, my study examines subjects from the discourse on the body to the fashion collections of the 20th and 21st century. The results of the study are as follows. Japanese avant-garde fashion focuses on a planarization of the body which questions the three dimensional construction of the body in more conventional clothing system. Un-structured, variable space posited between the body and clothes, participation of the wearer, attention to recent technology and material, and absence of gender identification characterizes the planarization of the body in Japanese avant-garde fashion. The absence of body in fashion stresses a will-to-form rather than mere bodily proportion and structure, which explores trans-extensity that goes beyond the boundary of the body Ultimately, planarization of the body betrays the correspondence between signifiant and signifie in sartorial convention. Aesthetic ideal of the body is visualized in the form of a dress. Some clothes prioritize the body, particularly the feminine bodily curves, while others focus on the clothing itself as abstract and sculptural forms. Fashion continues to explore forms and images that transcend the traditional representations of the clothed body. As a type of intimate architecture, fashion always mediates the dialogue between clothes and body, or fashion and figure. My study suggests a framework to analyze bodily representation in Japanese avant-garde fashion, focusing on the relationship between the clothes and body.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제33권7호
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• pp.1098-1108
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• 2009

This study finds the meaning of Anti Couture in the examination of the tendency and characteristics of aesthetics sense of Anti Couture in Contemporary Fashion. Anti Couture disregards the traditional composition and takes some subcultural elements, moreover, have the Anti-decoration characteristics of disproportion, disharmony, asymmetry, inperfection, and irregularity such as Japanese fashion. This study analyzed 600 works from 2000 S/S to 2008 S/S to figure out the Anti Couture to summarize the eclectic, humorous, avant-garde, poor, and minimal tendencies. The characteristics of the aesthetics sense of Anti Couture according to the tendency are analyzed into ambiguity, deformation, eclecticism, deconstruction, and artless art.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제24권3호
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• pp.401-411
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• 2000

The objectives of the thesis were to investigate the general trends of clothing conformity and clothing attitudes and to figure out the relationships between clothing conformity and clothing attitudes, and differences of clothing conformity and clothing attitudes between different genders and ages. The conformity includes clothing conformity by informational influence, by identificational influence, and by normative influence. And the clothing attitudes are fashion interests, pursuit of individuality, clothing importance. It was turned out that three types clothing conformity were closely related with variables of clothing attitudes(fashion interests, pursuit of individuality, clothing importance). Particularly, the clothing conformity by normative influence was negatively correlated with pursuit of individuality. And other clothing conformities were positively correlated with the variables of clothing attitudes. It was also turned out that school girls marked high points on the clothing conformity by informational influence and by identificational influence. Middle school students were influenced by identification idol. Most of middle and high school students were believed to recognize the importance of clothing, and they were pursueing both fashion and individuality simultaneously.

• 복식
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• 제55권6호
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• pp.159-171
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• 2005

The Goth style arouses Medieval syndrome, nostalgia and decadence, considering that Goth style shown in the contemporary fashion rend, tradition and fantasy that appeared in transition of the 21st century. This study is based on documents related to real Goth festivals and events to grasp various characteristics of Goth street style. The Goth style shown in high fashion classified the style on the basis of characteristics of camp culture from the viewpoint of bottom up from non-mainstream to mainstream with catwalk as the central figure. Considering appearance of Goth, property of subculture after the 1980s as alternative subculture as well phenomenon of latter subculture. Also it was possible to grasp attribute of lifestyle shown in music and fashion code from the viewpoint that alternative subculture was in pursuit of individual personality and autonomy. As an alternative subculture, Goth that appeared in UK from the late 1970s to the early 80s is considered new lifestyle, which means the scene of modern underground.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제13권1호
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• pp.159-171
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to compare the characteristic of Chanel style between modern and postmodern period. The documentary research method was used for this study. The modem period was limited from around 1920 through 1939 and the postmodern period from 1990 through present for this research. The results were summarized as follows: The characteristics of clothing style in modem period were 1) the preference of slim & straight body figure as ideal one and slim & straight clothing silhouette, 2) the high fashion image for the elite by simple & basic design, 3) the emphasis on the harmony by the unity, 4) the tendency of eliminating ornaments on clothing, 5) the discontinuation of traditional way of dress code & style, and 6) the modern style. The characteristics of clothing style in postmodern period were 1) the emphasis on erotic aspects of female body and sexy design, 2) the popularization of high fashion and certain social group's fashion, 3) the tendency of harmony by mix-match, 4) the preference of ornaments in clothing, 5) the preference of retro-fashion, and 6) the continuation of modem style.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제22권5호
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• pp.776-793
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• 2014

This study attempted to figure out the usage of the modular system in other fields through literature review and empirical study, analyze its structural method in fashion. After analyzing architecture & product-related books, the Internet data and previous studies, the modular system's five structural methods were obtained. Then, 991 photos of women's clothes from 2003 to 2014 were collected through the fashion websites in Korea and abroad. The results can be summarized as follows: First, the following five structures were derived: assembling structure, overlapping structure, arrangement structure, inserting structure and folding structure. Second, according to analysis on the structural method of the modular system in modern fashion, overlapping structure (34%) was the most common. Third, in fashion, the use of fastener for installation and removal is important for assembling structure. In terms of overlapping structure, 3D volume by vertical accumulation was commonly observed. Arrangement structure revealed a horizontal and flat shape through simple arrangement. In inserting structure, on the contrary, non-standardized modules were used as a part of clothes or decorative elements. In folding structure, origami technique for reduction and expansion was used.