• Human Ecology Research
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• v.52 no.1
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• pp.33-42
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to analyze the internal meanings of dolls and dolls' images expressed in modern fashion show. Dolls are used as sacred object, decoration object, playing object, personified object or cherished object. The expression types of doll image in modern fashion are as following; substitutes of multi-ego, object of sexual desire, objectified creature, and medium of transcending fantasy. First, dolls image as substitutes of multi-ego had been expressed in magical expression, disgusting mask, transparent mannequin, expressionless, horror, conflict, loss of identity, exaggeration or escapism. Second, as object of sexual desire, dolls image are expressed as naked baby, ambiguous expression, naked body, voluminous body, emphasized specific bodypart, heavy makeup or wax doll of sexy actresses. Third, as objectified creature, dolls are human body in passive form. Human bodies are disassembled and reassembled as dolls. Such dolls reflect serious reality. They wrap up human like product and objectify it. Fourth, dolls image expressed as medium of transcending fantasy recollects youth age or expresses imagination on ambiguous virtual reality. Like this, dolls have value as creatures in various fields of modern fashion. Dolls contribute a lot in creating important inspiration. Dolls also expose internal mentality and represent ego. Externally, dolls express human shape becoming more and more materialized and objectified by advancing scientific technology in digital capitalistic society.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.5 s.104
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• pp.44-58
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• 2006

Dolls which were recognized as children's toys are recently also recognized as one of the cultural products of adult's hobby. Thus this research is about dolls' fashion and the possibility of their industrial expansion. Moreover, the object of the research is to develop and manufacture high quality fashion doll products in Korea which are mostly imported from foreign countries. The research studied the origin and the path of the development of fashion dolls with the history of clothing and special books for dolls. By organizing the character and the fashion of dolls' costumes, the research has a meaning for not only to make an academic approach of dolls' costumes which was insufficient in Korea but also to provide useful information to toy enterprises. The conclusion of this research is as followed. First, dolls have a lot of possibilities to be developed as a high value added cultural product industry by emerging from their children's toy image. Second, since costumes of dolls also have a trend, it is necessary to develop products with the trend to satisfy customer's willing. Third, organization of both the books about the dolls' costumes and the information for their DIY is urgently needed for the domestic fashion doll manias. Forth, the necessity to scheme the expansion of fancy industry has been raise by using dolls' characterization and fashion. Fifth, the researcher who has researched the above necessities has manufactured 8 pieces of dolls' costumes and provided the actual solutions to the each point of the discussions. In sum, I suggest expanding the scope of both research subject and product manufacturing of the research results and also recommend for further researches to develop the products which consumers want.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.2 s.111
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• pp.86-99
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• 2007

In this study, the concept of play as an entertainment is redefined and applicable method of fashion design as a play are suggested by analyzing the feature of doll's costume design based on the play pattern. In literary study, the role of playing doll Is described and has been examined by the analysis of scholars' opinions. In positive study, the pattern and costume design of sample costume dolls are analyzed using 624 samples of the representative images collected from the literatures and real figures, and they are classified as collection dolls or fashion dolls in order to analyze the feature of fashion design in playing dolls. As a result of the analysis of doll's costumes based on its use, the costumers are divided into a real world costume which is similar to what human wear in daily life and a virtual costume which is used in the movie or play and the costumes only worn by the dolls. The examination of the type of costume worn by dolls, dress is principally dominant costume in collection doll, whereas in fashion doll, dress is still mainly worn but shirt blouse & pants, shirt blouse k skirt, jacket, coat, bathing suit. etc. are shown dispersedly as well. In the costume silhouette of dolls, collection doll uses mostly A line silhouette meanwhile fit and flare is mostly used in the fashion doll but other silhouettes are also relatively shown a lot. In the means of the color of the costume worn by dolls, collection doll is more similar to those in actual fashion design. On the contrary, the color of the costume that fashion doll is put on is more free and more various because the trendy rotors such as green, yellow, purple, etc are used.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.14 no.3
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• pp.67-77
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• 2012

Hanbok of dolls can be a good medium that can given with value of traditional cultural products, however, it is not easy to see hanbok and its pattern from dolls. Especially for the case of rag doll which is closely related to the life of users, it has enough value as traditional cultural contents, however, there have been not sufficient studies on its pattern development and classification of form of dolls. Therefore, by classifying the body type of dolls by its pose, this study aims to provide a basic data for the development of hanbok pattern. This study looks into the origin and meaning of dolls and the definition and features of rag doll, then, it collected pictures and data rag dolls produced by 29 domestic companies. Through the data collected, the six different types of dolls, 'Sitting Style', 'Standing Style', 'Lying Style', 'Cushion Style', 'Quadruped Sitting Style', 'Quadruped Standing Style', were classified into form. In the future, I hope the result of this study can be used as useful data for toy manufactures and cultural business in relation to development of rag doll and at the same time as a basic data for development of hanbok pattern development of rag dolls as traditional cultural goods.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.49-62
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• 2004

By delivery means of fashion information, fashion dolls appeared in 18th century. According to development of printing, delivery means of fashion information changed from fashion dolls to fashion plates. Fashion plates offer a colorful and in depth view of the stylish fashions of the past. First fashion plate was Hollars print that was inserted to $\ulcorner$La Galerie des Modes et Costumes Francais$\lrcorner$ and that was published at England in 1643. First fashion plate in France could assumes as winter deshabill that was inserted to $\ulcorner$Le Mercure Galant$\lrcorner$ in 1678. The widespred publication of fashion plates began in England and France in the late 18th century. The first true fashion magazine $\ulcorner$The Ladys Magazine$\lrcorner$ was published at London in 1770. And suddenly similar plates were being published all over Europe. Fashion plates reached their height of popularity in the mid-1800s. Modern age in Europe for fashion magazines golden age, hundreds kinds of fashion magazines published in Europe. Copyright laws in Europe were not enforced, resulting in widespread piracy of fashion designs and plates. After 19th century, America and Europe used much Paris imitation plate. $\ulcorner$The Ladys Magazine$\boxUl$, $\ulcorner$La Gallerie des Modes et Costumes Francais$\lrcorner$, $\ulcorner$Les Cabinet des Modes$\lrcorner$, $\ulcorner$Journal des Dames et des Modes$\lrcorner$, $\ulcorner$The Ladys Monthly Museum$\lrcorner$ were the important fashion magazines in 18th century. $\ulcorner$The Ladys Pocket Magazine$\lrcorner$, $\ulcorner$La Mode$\lrcorner$, $\ulcorner$Le Follet$\lrcorner$, $\ulcorner$La Mode Illustree$\lrcorner$, $\ulcorner$$\ulcorner$The Queen$\lrcorner$ were the important fashion magazines in 19th century. $\ulcorner$Journal des Dames et des Modes$\lrcorner$, $\ulcorner$Gazette du bon ton$\lrcorner$ were the important fashion magazines in early 20th century.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.36 no.5
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• pp.473-488
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• 2012

This study examines the origin of dolls as well as how the role and types of various dolls have changed in a comparison of the functions of dolls before and after $20^{th}$ century. In addition, this study analyzes symbolic characteristics appearing in doll costumes. First, doll costumes (used in child play) represent sexual roles and various role models that are taught to children. Second, they reflect the fashion trends of that time and appear in the most beautiful forms that pursue the ideals of the time where doll costumes symbolize the latest fashion of the time. Third, the culture of doll costumes symbolizes cultural identity that show native customs, art, culture, and ethnic characteristics. Lastly, a mania society for dolls and collector groups are formed that share individual sensitivity. Members of those groups have feelings of solidarity and homogeneity through doll costumes that they have decorated and expressed themselves that show the reinforcement of a group by doll costumes.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.140-146
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• 2009

In this study, the ideal human body of adult woman is to express, and the body dimension of the woman model is produced and compared in doll model with the bodily dimension by presenting the body pattern to produce the dolls with the ideal body proportion visually. For the research process, by collecting, comparing and analyzing the body pattern of the currently used embroidery fashion doll, the pattern of body suit that displays the body of women is designed with the size of model with the height of 168cm. This is scaled for 1/4 of its entirety to make the doll of around 40cm and produced the research doll with two revisions. When compared with the ratio of each part of the body for the height of the produced research doll with the bodily ration of the major ratio of the height of the standard bodily size of Size Korea 2004, the ratio of the category of the height is almost consistent, and the width category is shown approximately 80~85%, waist for 75%, thickness category for approximately 90% as the ideal ratio.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.9
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• pp.1386-1397
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• 2009

This study investigates costumes for ball jointed dolls under the theme of Bok-yo(服妖): The Lady in Early-middle Joseon with relic costumes as a reference. The Bok-yo style was spread universally for Joseon women in the $15^{th}-16^{th}$ centuries, but it is an uncommon theme in the area of media and traditional costume for dolls. Bok-yo (curious outfit), consisted of a Dang-jeogori with a golden brocade in the front bottom, manlike Jang-ot, wide Chima, and Jang-ot was dressed between Chima and the Dang-jeogori. To make correct patterns and approvals for idle bodies of female ball-jointed dolls, darts are added in the front vertical line and center back of the golden brocade Dan-jeogori for Joseon ladies. The pattern of the golden brocade Chima is made as a trapezoid shape for the thin waist of a doll, and the length of a deep-greened silk gauze The Jang-ot increased because of the length of the doll's legs. In addition, the kinds of investigated accessories, hair, traditional underwear for dolls are limited. Suggested is a closer cooperation between the investigated costume designers, doll companies, and accessory makers for the future market of ball jointed dolls.

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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• 2005.10a
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• pp.168-169
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• 2005

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.37 no.5
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• pp.691-703
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• 2013

The costume culture of ladies in late Goryeo is an important and rare source for cultural fashion souvenir design. This study investigates the historical costume design sources of late Goryeo to suggest high quality traditional and practical ornament souvenir designs for female dolls as well as examples of coordination with doll costumes. The costume culture of late Goryeo contained golden Buddhism and a revival of $12^{th}$ century Goryeo costume characteristic after the period of Mongolian influences from the Yuan. The main sources for doll ornament designs are $14^{th}$ century Buddhist paintings, a few ornament relics of Goryeo, ancient literature, and portraits of ladies in the $14^{th}$ century that originated from five doll's traditional ornaments (lotus hairpin, cloud-shaped hairpin, Buddhist flower hair ornament, vase-shaped Binyeo, and bell of animalhuman face) and three wig designs (wigs from Buddhist paintings and portraits, and hairpiece) with bleached gilding silver, silk, various gemstones and synthetic hair. These doll ornament and wig designs imply the symbol of Buddhism, exorcism, and costume culture of $14^{th}$ century Goryeo ladies that can be matched with two doll gowns, half-sleeved jacket, skirt, two Jogoris, apron, under trousers as formal, semi-formal, and town-wear according to the T.P.O of late Goryeo; in addition, five ornaments can be used as owner's ornaments. The partial changing colors and materials due to the characteristics of doll ornament goods as well as better communication between researcher and constructor remain to be improved.