• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.17 no.5 s.84
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• pp.45-52
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• 2005

The optimum fabric design plan is recently needed with the relevant fabric shrinkage in dyeing and finishing processes for the various sensible fabrics for garment. For responding this need, the difference of fabric design plan such as fabric density, yarn count and finishing shrinkage has to be surveyed with weaving looms such as water jet, air-jet and rapier looms, and also has to be analysed with weave pattern such as plain, twill and satin according to the fabric manufacturers. Therefore, in this study, 420 polyester weave pattern sheets are collected from 5 fabric manufacturers, and the weave density coefficients of these fabrics are calculated using yarn count, fabric density and 1 repeat weave pattern. These weave density coefficients are analysed according to the fabric manufacturers, weaving looms and various weave patterns. And also the weave density coefficients of 420 polyester fabrics are analysed with finishing shrinkage according to the fabric manufacturers and various weave patterns such as plain, twill and satin fabrics.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.56-62
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• 2005

Fancy Yarn has developed diverse textures in fabrics, reducing the time in yarn and fabric production or apparel making in order to develop creative goods. In this study aimed to propose the use of a 4D box system to make fancy yarn shapes with loops, knops and spirals and the like. The change in texture was analysed and simulated to produce a suitable fabric image by using the fancy yarns fabric. The results are as follows. The plain weave, 2/2 basket weave, 2/2 twill weave, 2/2 2 complete broken weaves, and 5 harness sateen weaves were woven and a fabric image formed. In the case of the loop and the knop yarns fabric image, compared to the twisted fabric image the surface was covered by loops or some parts became partially black. In the case of the spiral shape it showed pattern continuity in spiral shapes 1, 2 and 3. The more twisted spirals produced a diamond shaped pattern or a twill line and a herring bone shaped twill line. An evenly distributed black fabric image appeared in 5 harness sateen weave. For the loop shape the broken weave or 5 harness sateen weave was produced; basket weave and broken weave for the knop yarn 1 or knop yarn 2; and for the spiral shape a plain fabric or 5 harness sateen weave were produced much similar to the fabric image. The surface texture of the mapped image compared to the twisted fabric image produces fancy yarn fabric images covered with loops or irregular spots caused by the knop and the spiral. Therefore it is appropriate or suitable for the simulation of tweed or woolen wool fabrics. The fabric image which produced consistent and continuous lines is therefore more suitable for simulations of twill or herringbone fabric images.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.21 no.7
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• pp.1196-1204
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• 1997

Cotton, rayon/cotton, and Tencel twill weave fabrics were used to investigate the effect of fiber types on the cellulase washing finish. And twill. basket, and derivative weave cotton fabrics were used to study the weave effect. Various fabrics were treated with neutral cellulase varying treatment times and with acid cellulase, stone, and stone-neutral cellulase respectively for two hours in a rotary washer. Weight loss decreased in the order of rayon/cotton> cotton> Tencel, and basket and derivative weave fabrics lost more weight than twill weave fabric. Color difference decreased in the order of cotton> Tencel> rayon/cotton, and twill weave fabric had larger color difference than derivative and basket weave fabrics. Back staining decreased in the order of cotton> rayon/cotton> Tencel, and twill weave fabric had larger back staining than derivative and basket weave fabrics. Tear strength retention decreased in the order of rayon/cotton> cotton> Tencet and twill weave fabric had larger tear strength retention than derivative and basket weave fabrics. Flex stiffness retention decreased in the order of cotton> Tencel> rayon/cotton, and in the order of derivative> twill> basket weave. In cotton fibers, damage of primary wall was observed. And the cellulase treatment on Tencel seemed to roughen the fabric surface slightly, and to fibril fibers along the fiber axis.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• v.5 no.1
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• pp.6-11
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to analyze the subjective fabric hand of sleepwear fabrics, and to assist in developing sleepwear fabrics that offer maximum comfort in wearing sensation. In general, the respondents noted that sleepwear fabrics made with polyester had better tactile sensation than those made with cotton, while satin weave fabrics felt better than plain weave fabrics. As regards the difference in fabric hand according to gender, female students responded with more receptiveness and sensitivity than male students in the category of woven fabric evaluation. As regards the same textile materials, the evaluations of female students and male students differed in fabric hand descriptors, particularly for the evaluation on cotton fabrics. Male students responded that both plain weave fabrics and satin weave fabrics were stiff while female students replied that satin weave fabrics had better tactile sensation.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• v.6 no.4
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• pp.306-312
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• 2005

This work looks into the behaviour of the twill weave woven fabrics during relaxation (when the weaving tension is released). Ten, 50-metre rolls of twill weave woven fabrics were produced. The fabrics were marked in a rectangular form at the weaving loom. After 48 hours of relaxation, the new shapes and sizes were recorded. The shapes of almost all of the samples were changed to parallelogram, even though they differed in size. The work showed that the manner of fabric deformation during relaxation depends upon the fabric structure. It indicates that contraction due to relaxation of the twill weave causes the woven fabric to skew. in the direction of the twill. The quantity of the skewness is related to the float length and the twill type. Fabrics with longer float length have higher skewness.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.15 no.4
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• pp.143-155
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• 2013

This study examined the motif, weave structure, fabric density, and thread thickness of the patterned silks excavated from the Lady Lee's Tomb to trace the weave composition of the 18th Century in Korea. Different weave compositions were adopted depending on the weave structure. Two weave structures appeared in these patterned silks : simple gauze and satin damask. In the case of simple gauze Jergori, all the components, Gil(bodice), Somae(Sleeve) had similar fabric density and thread thickness. On the other hand, the satin damask Jergoris was composed of the components of different fabric density and thread thickness. According to the fabric density and thread thickness, the motif sharpness of damask Jergori was represented in three different ways : smooth and clear, rough and clear, and rough and vague. This revealed that Lady Lee selected not only pattern but also fabric density and thread thickness in the design of damask Jergori.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.79-84
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• 2006

This paper deals with the grey fabric deformation during relaxation. It investigates the effect of twist direction and twist liveliness on the 2/2 twill weave woven fabric distortion, during relaxation This experimental work shows that twist liveliness increases the natural tendency of the twill weave woven fabric to skew. In addition when the twist direction of the warp and weft is opposite to each other the bias curling occurs too.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.7 no.4
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• pp.433-438
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• 2005

Seven commercial lining fabrics normally used in a market were selected: plain-weave fabrics with polyester, nylon, rayon and acetate fiber, and polyester textured yarn, in addition, polyester fabrics with plain, twill and satin weave. Then seam strength, seam efficiency, resistance to slippage of yarns and type of seam destruction were examined related to endurance by textiles in sewing capability of the lining fabrics. In results, as tensile strength was greater, seam strength got greater, which shows tensile strength and seam strength have close relationship. Tensile and seam strength of acetate fabric were the least, but seam efficiency was the greatest. It presents that strong tensile and seam strengths do not show high seam efficiency at the same time. Various types of seam destruction have been shown. When tensile strength of the sewing thread was greater than tensile strength of fabric, fabric destruction was occurred before the sewing thread destruction. When tensile strength of the fabric was greater than seam strength, the sewing thread destruction was occurred. Resistance to slippage of yarns got greater as tensile strength of the fabric got greater. The plain-weave fabric, which tensile strength of fabric was smaller, showed the greater resistance to slippage of yarns than twill and satin weave fabrics. The stretch fabric revealed the optimal lining fabric with the greatest resistance to slippage of yarns.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.18 no.1
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• pp.137-143
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to examine the evaluation of texture image and preference according to the structural characteristics of silk fabric, and to analyze the effects of texture image and sensibility on the preference. 53 female subjects evaluated fabric image and sensibility of 17 specimens of white silk fabrics sold on the market with semantic differential scale. The data were analyzed through factor analysis, Pearson correlational coefficient and t-test using SPSS win 13.0. For the evaluation, structural characteristics such as fiber contents, weave type, weight and thickness were analyzed. Factor analysis showed that sensibilities were classified into 3 categories; 'surface property', 'weight', 'flexibility'. Fabric images were classified into 2 categories; 'elegance' and 'naturalness'. Statistically significant differences of structural characteristics on the texture image were observed. Weave type affected 'surface property' and fiber contents affected' flexibility'. Weight and weave type affected' elegance', too. The significant factors affecting preference were fabric image of 'elegance' and structural characteristics of 'weave type'. The results of this study showed that the most preferred silk fabric is smooth and soft satin weaved fabric with texture image of 'elegance'.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.279-284
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• 2010

This paper surveys basic research for data base system of the fabric structural design. For this purpose, the weave density coefficients of the worsted and cotton fabrics are analysed and discussed with cover factors suggested by Prof. Walz and Picanol company. And the relationship between weave density coefficients and cover factors of the worsted and cotton woven fabrics was analysed and discussed with weave pattern and yarn count. Finally, the process shrinkages of dyeing and finishing processes according to the weave density coefficients of the worsted and cotton fabrics were analysed and discussed as a preliminary study for the data base system of the fabric structural design. As a result, the density coefficients, K values of the worsted and cotton fabrics were ranged from 600 to 1000, and the weave density coefficients of those fabrics are ranged from 0.4 to 0.8 and from 0.2 to 1.0, respectively. The finishing shrinkages for the worsted fabrics are ranged from 2% to 10%, and for cotton fabrics, it was from 2% to 20%. The weave density coefficients of the worsted and cotton fabrics could be distributed according to the looms, weave pattern and weaving and finishing shrinkages as a concept of the data base for the fabric structural design.