• Fibers and Polymers
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• v.7 no.4
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• pp.344-351
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• 2006

This paper is intended to determine the optimal processing parameters applied to the dyeing procedure so that the desired color strength of a raw fabric can be achieved. Moreover, the processing parameters are also used for constructing a system to predict the fabric quality. The fabric selected is the nylon and Lycra blend. The dyestuff used for dyeing is acid dyestuff and the dyeing method is one-bath-two-section. The Taguchi quality method is applied for parameter design. The analysis of variance (ANOVA) is applied to arrange the optimal condition, significant factors and the percentage contributions. In the experiment, according to the target value, a confirmation experiment is conducted to evaluate the reliability. Furthermore, the genetic algorithm (GA) is combined with the back propagation neural network (BPNN) in order to establish the forecasting system for searching the best connecting weights of BPNN. It can be shown that this combination not only enhances the efficiency of the learning algorithm, but also decreases the dependency of the initial condition during the network training. Most of all, the robustness of the learning algorithm will be increased and the quality characteristic of fabric will be precisely predicted.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.17 no.5
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• pp.854-861
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• 2015

This study evaluates the objective and subjective hand as well as the preference for hand and outdoor jackets on laminated waterproof breathable fabrics with different constituent characteristics to identify those best suited for consumer needs. Mechanical properties and objective hands were measured by the KES-FB system. The subjective hand and the preference of laminated waterproof breathable fabric for outdoor jackets were rated by the 20's and 30's women experts with tactile and visual senses that utilized a questionnaire with a seven-point semantic differential scale; subsequently, the flexibility and compressive elasticity of laminated waterproof breathable fabrics were low. However, light and thin waterproof breathable fabrics with a smooth surface had high scores in smoothness, fullness & softness and total hand value. In addition, laminated waterproof breathable fabrics were classified into three hand factors: flexibility, density, and surface properties. There were significant differences on flexibility and surface property perceptions, hand and out-door jackets preferences according to the characteristics of waterproof breathable fabrics. The hand preference of the laminated waterproof breathable fabric improved with decreasing 2HB and increasing EM. However, EM showed positive effect for outdoor jacket preferences. Those that were flexible and smooth were preferred for outdoor jackets.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.5 no.3
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• pp.47-52
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• 2002

The handle of fabrics including tactility and sense of visuality are closely related to the factors governing the preferences of end-users. This study shows the change of mechanical properties, thermal properties and optical properties by comparing two fabrics which are woven with circular shaped filaments and with triangular ones. The fabric mechanical characteristics required for primary hand values were evaluated with the KES-FB system. The mechanical properties measured by KES-FB system shows that fabrics made of circular filaments are greater than those made of triangular ones. The thermal properties measured by KES-F7(Thermo Labo II) system shows that the values of the initial maximum value(qmax) and the thermal conductivity(λ) are higher in the fabric made of triangular shaped ones. When the light rays tall on a surface, the fabric made of triangular filaments shows more lustrous than circular ones.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.9 no.2
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• pp.41-49
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• 1997

To control free formaldehyde release from fabric finished with N-methylol compounds, resin finished cotton fabric was treated with resorcinol solution, dried and cured. Factors affecting to control formaldehyde release have been investigated. It was shown that the aftertreatment with resorcinol greatly suppressed the free formaldehyde release. Up to concentration of about 5% of resorcinol, the concentration of resorcinol effected on the control of free and evolved formaldehyde. And at high concentration of resorcinol, however, the concentration became rather insensitive to contol formaldehyde release. Addition of some salt catalysts such as ammonium chloride, zinc nitrate, sodium acetate and ammonium acetate, was effective in decreasing formaldehyde release. Considering the effect on the control of formaldehyde and crease recovery, ammonium acetate was concidered to be the best catalyst. It was observed that the optimum curing temperature for the resorcinol treatment was about 15$0^{\circ}C$, and that the curing time did not affected formaldehyde release over three minutes. Although the treatment of resorcinol had a little adverse effect on crease recovery of resin finished fabric, this effect could be negligible.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.82-88
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• 2005

We have investigated the luster of modified cross-sectional fiber fabrics as one of the essential quality estimates for clothing development. We have confirmed an objective evaluation method, and have determined the experimental luster char­acteristics of modified cross-section fibers. The cross-section of the fibers in a fabric affects the appearance of a textile. We used the image analysis method to investigate the luster to determine the critical factors influencing the appearance of modi­fied cross-section fiber fabrics. For similarly structured textiles in a component fabric, clear differences were observed in the fabric weave, density, percentage, and total area of blobs, which is image region. Color played a decisive role in the luster of the textiles, and luster was not significantly influenced by the modified cross-section fabric weave. In addition, the degree of luster did not increase in the order plain to twill to satin for modified cross-sectional fiber fabrics. All the split-type microfi­bers exhibited higher numerical luster values (percentage of pixels, and number and total area of blobs) than sea-island microfibers did. The degree of luster of the modified cross-sectional fiber fabrics was not high at specular reflection angles.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.5
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• pp.1088-1101
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• 2011

The purpose of this study was to examine the outdoor sportswear purchase behavior, outdoorwear sportswear brand preference, functional fabric awareness, and benefits sought. The research was performed through in-depth interview during February to March 2011. Data were collected from 10 consumers who had purchased outdoor sportswear and experienced camping in 6 months. First, the results from study showed that functionality/comfortability, design, color, and brand name were important factors in selecting outdoor sportswear. Offline stores were the main place to purchase, however, internet shopping mall and portal online community were another shopping channel as well. Second, respondents preferred imported outdoor sportswear brand to national brand. According to the study, the respondents trusted the imported outdoor sportswear quality based on the brand name, value, and brand history more than national brand. Third, consumers who had low functional fabric awareness were more likely to evaluate apparel products based on the brand name. Knowledge levels for textile functions were high in elastic, UV protection, air permeable, and antibacterial properties. The essential features for camping were water absorbing and quick dry, water resistance, wind proof, UV protection, and fire retardant properties. Finally the results showed that there were two sportswear benefit soughts: functionality and status ostentation.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.138-150
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• 2012

Nano Inkjet DTP technology, a new technology introduced recently, can be applied to various types of fabric, and pre-treatment process can be omitted, which makes the whole printing process compact. Some important factors for DTP are color difference between the color selected by the designer on PC and the color on the final product and durability of the final fabrics. In this study, the twenty-three trend colors of 2012-2013 F/W suggested by PeclersParis have been picked to be printed on cotton, silk and polyester fabrics, then K/S and ${\Delta}E$ value and color fastness were measured. The results show that dyeability of fabric is varied for each color group, and that also tone of color affect to dyeability when measured for colors in the same group. In general, for all fabric, light fastness, washing fastness and color fastness to sublimation are outstanding. However, because of poor rubbing fastness, additional treatment to fix colorant on fabric is required.

• Journal of Information Processing Systems
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.109-117
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• 2023

Defect detection is one of the key factors in fabric quality control. To improve the speed and accuracy of denim fabric defect detection, this paper proposes a defect detection algorithm based on cascading feature extraction architecture. Firstly, this paper extracts these weight parameters of the pre-trained VGG16 model on the large dataset ImageNet and uses its portability to train the defect detection classifier and the defect recognition classifier respectively. Secondly, retraining and adjusting partial weight parameters of the convolution layer were retrained and adjusted from of these two training models on the high-definition fabric defect dataset. The last step is merging these two models to get the defect detection algorithm based on cascading architecture. Then there are two comparative experiments between this improved defect detection algorithm and other feature extraction methods, such as VGG16, ResNet-50, and Xception. The results of experiments show that the defect detection accuracy of this defect detection algorithm can reach 94.3% and the speed is also increased by 1-3 percentage points.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.31 no.1
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• pp.18-33
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• 2023

Zero-waste pattern cutting is a groundbreaking sustainable fashion practice. However, few brands and designers have pursued this method because it requires creative pattern design that diverges from the existing process of using pattern slopers. Therefore, application within the fashion industry is not sufficient. Therefore, in an attempt to highlight the key characteristics of zero-waste pattern design, this study classifies and analyzes cases in which similar designs employ zero-waste pattern-cutting techniques. We hope to make zero-waste pattern design more accessible by presenting realistic pattern-cutting guidelines. To this end, theoretical research on relevant literature, previous research, and online resources and an empirical analysis of cases involving zero-waste pattern cutting were conducted in parallel. As a result of the study, we were able to classify the factors of zero-waste pattern design in terms of fabric use, design, and composition. Regarding materials, our research revealed the importance of appropriate fabric width, understanding the difference between waste minimization and minimal fabric use, and easy reuse and recycling. In terms of design, the simultaneous progress of pattern and design work, adjustable loose silhouettes, and the use of surplus fabric for functional and decorative details emerged as key characteristics. For composition, we found that size adjustment limits, arrangement irregularity, and pattern shapes were crucial elements and that various arrangements revealed unlimited design potential.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.1
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• pp.103-112
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• 2016

This research was designed to figure out the perception and attitude of university students toward urban outdoor wear and to provide the guidelines for product quality improvement using Kano model. A total of 270 responses were analyzed by SPSS 20.0 through frequency and factor analysis. Respondents' levels for outdoor activity & outdoor products possession being still low, steady growth in urban outdoor wear market is expected. A total of eight quality factors were identified through factor analysis; suitability, production quality, functionality, ease of care, fabric performance, portability, fashionability, and symbolism. Based on Kano model, quality factors of urban outdoor wear were categorized into three groups: one-dimensional; indifferent; and must-be quality factor. It was found that consumers were satisfied with urban outdoor wear only when it meets the needs for suitability for body types and ease of care, meaning that manufactures should be cautious not to lose these features. Being must-be quality factor, production quality(form stability, quality of subsidiary materials), and fabric performance such as colorfastness should be basically satisfied. The relative importance of each quality feature on satisfaction/dissatisfaction was investigated using CSC(customer satisfaction coefficient). Based on the CSC, every item was classified again. Attractive quality features with large CSC were shown in suitability factor. Must-be quality features with small CSC were mainly shown in functionality and fabric performance factors. These findings imply that manufactures of urban outdoor wear should not only maintain the production quality but also focus on suitability features to differentiate their product with previous products.