• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.24 no.7
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• pp.987-994
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• 2000

Cotton fabrics were finished with mixture of BTCA and silicone by pad-dry-cure process to achieve better mechanical properties than those of finished with BTCA alone. The changes of mechanical properties o( finished cotton fabrics were measured with by the KES-FB System and the hand values were calculated from the data of mechanical properties. With the durable press finish with BTCA tensile, bending, shear and compression properties increased. In hand values, Stiffness Crispness and Anti-Drape Stiffness increased, and Fullness & Softness decreased. Whereas silicone treatment reduced bending and shear properties and improved tensile and compressional resilience. Thus, Stiffness Crispness and Anti-Drape Stiffness decreased, and Fullness & Softness increased. These results indicated that BTCA treatment restricts fiber/yarn mobility in the fabric structure due to crosslinking, but silicone treatment reduces inter-fiber and inter-yarn frictional forces. Therefore, finish with mixture of BTCA and silicone provided cotton fabrics with a lower Stiffness, Crispness and Anti-Drape Stiffness and a higher Fullness & Softnesss than finish with BTCA alone.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• v.4 no.4
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• pp.169-175
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• 2003

A simulation system for versatile garment drape has been developed. Using this system, the shape of a garment can be simulated in consideration of fabric physical properties as well as the interaction between fabrics and other objects. Each fabric piece in a garment is modeled using a geometrically constrained particle system and its behavior is calculated from an implicit numerical integration algorithm in a relatively short time. The system consists of three modules including a preprocessor for the preparation of fabric patterns and external objects, a postprocessor for the results of three-dimensional visualization, and a drape simulation engine. It can be used for the design process of textile goods, garments, furniture, or upholsteries.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.47-57
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• 1984

Effect on the hand value and mechanical properties of blend ratio and weight had been investigated Oil summer suits for men. Relation between the mechanical properties and the deformation in behavior was also studied. The mechanical properties which influence the hand values and total hand value had been discussed and the relation between mechanical properties, hand values and fabric count had, too. As result, the following conclusions had been obtained. 1) The values of tensile properties increased with the increase of blend ratio of wool. The values of surface properties increased according to the increase of blend ratio of polyester. 2HB(bending properties) of polyester/wool blend showed higher value than that of $100\%$ wool, but there was no change in the shearing properties according to the blend ratio. The values of stiffness, crispness and anti-drape stiffness of blend fabric showed higher values than those of $100\%$ wool fabric. The value of fullness (including softness) of blend fabric showed lower value than that of $100\%$ wool fabric. 2) The correlation between hand values and mechanical properties showed following order. in stiffness : bending properties>surface properties in crispness: surface properties>bending properties in anti-drape stiffness: bending properties>surface properties>shearing properties.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.684-695
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• 1995

The purpose of this study was to investigate the influence of the mechanical properties on drapability in the peach skin-like finished fabrics. For this study, the samples used were 50 kinds of peach skin-like finished fabrics. The mechanical properties such as tensile, shearing, bending, compressional, surface characteristic values, thickness and weight were measured with a KES-F system and drupe coefficient by drape tester. The relationship between the characteristic values and drape coefficicients of the peach skin-like finished fabrics results were obtained. 1. Peach skin-like finished fabric had $\pm$2o range of shearing, bending, compression, surface. properties, thickness and weight as compared with Japanese women's thin fabrics. The characteristic mixing values were better with the values of WC/T, W/T, etc. as compared with that of japanese women's thin fabrics. Accordingly, the peach skin-like finished fabrics had a little volume, excellent hanging and drapability as compared with japanese women's thin fabrics. 2. The drape coefficient of peach skin-like finished fabric had a high level of correlation between 2HB, G, WC, MIU, WT, MMD, 2HG, RT, W, B etc. of the mechanical properties. The blocked properties that contributed to the drape coefficient of peach skin-like finished fabrics were in the order of the bending> tensile> thickness> weight properties. This drape coefficients(DC) were found by measuring the mechanical properties according to the obtained regress on equate on. DC=99.0179+17.9023 log G -17.0543 log 2HG5+17.2104 log 2HG+35.7685 log 2HB+ 4.6082 log B-30.5906 log T+4.2308 log W 3. The contribution to the drape coefficient of the characteristic mixing values of peach skin-like finished fabric was in the order of > 2HB/W> 2HB/B> B/W The drape coefficients were found by measuring the characteristic mixing values according to the obtained regression equation. 4. The drape coefficients of peach skin-like finished fabrics were influenced by the differences between the bending of warp direction, bending of weft direction, shearing etc which in turn determine the level of hanging. The regression equation was as follows; 5. The drape coefficients of peach skin.like finished fabrics had a highly positive correlation with the node index. It has an negative correlation with number of nodes.

• Proceedings of the Korean Fiber Society Conference
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• 1993.06b
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• pp.455-460
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• 1993

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.23 no.5
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• pp.667-673
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• 2021

The purpose of this study was to obtain drape information and objective texture of fabrics easily and quickly by using a constructed fabric database. For the construction of the fabric database, 287 woven fabrics were examined by using the CLO fabric kit, KES-FB system, and drape test system. The k-means cluster analysis method was used to classify the fabrics into 7 grades. After correlation analysis of the fabric properties for each experiment, similar properties of the CLO fabric kit and KES-FB system were chosen, which were then designed to extract similar fabrics from the database. It was confirmed that inferring the drape information and objective hand feeling of fabrics was to some extent possible by extracting similar fabrics from the database. In this study, the primary hand and total hand value(THV) of KES-FB system, which was constructed by Kawabata and other experiments, were used to quantify the objective hand feeling, because they are the most widely used. However, these standards can be changed over time; in order to be applied within the clothing industry, these standards may have to be changed to some extent. Moreover, it is notable that although objective hand feeling cannot be expressed in the 3D virtual costume program, it can be easily derived from the constructed database. Additionally, it is expected that the existing 3D virtual costume program will express the costumes more realistically by improving these results.

• Journal of the Korea Computer Graphics Society
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• v.26 no.5
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• pp.15-24
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• 2020

We present a supervised learning method that estimates the simulation parameters required to simulate the fabric from the static drape shape of a given fabric sample. The static drape shape was inspired by Cusick's drape, which is used in the apparel industry to classify fabrics according to their mechanical properties. The input vector of the training model consists of the feature vector extracted from the static drape and the density value of a fabric specimen. The output vector consists of six simulation parameters that have a significant influence on deriving the corresponding drape result. To generate a plausible and unbiased training data set, we first collect simulation parameters for 400 knit fabrics and generate a Gaussian Mixed Model (GMM) generation model from them. Next, a large number of simulation parameters are randomly sampled from the GMM model, and cloth simulation is performed for each sampled simulation parameter to create a virtual static drape. The generated training data is fitted with a log-linear regression model. To evaluate our method, we check the accuracy of the training results with a test data set and compare the visual similarity of the simulated drapes.

• Human Ecology Research
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• v.59 no.1
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• pp.13-21
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• 2021

In order to examine the changes in the appearance properties and the post-adhesion appearance properties of Hanji yarn blended fabrics : 100% Hanji yarn fabric, two kinds of cotton / Hanji yarn blended fabrics and 100% cotton fabric, were selected and fused with three kinds of interlinings. After fusing, changes of standardized KES values were examined. 1. W/T, B/W of Hanji yarn blended fabrics was higher than that cotton fabric. WC/W, 2HB/W, 2HB/B, and 2HG/G values of Hanji yarn blended fabrics are lower than cotton fabric. This means that the Hanji yarn was mixed, shape retention, wrinkle recovery was improved, and the drape property was lowered. 2. After fusing, W/T, shape retention, wrinkle recovery of Hanji yarn blended fabrics increased, and WC/W values of Hanji yarn blended fabrics decreased. The wrinkle recovery property of Hanji yarn blended fabrics were improved; however, the 2HG/G value of Hanji yarn fabric increased due to fusing, and the wrinkle recovery property of Hanji yarn fabric decreased. 3. In the selection of adhesive core, I1 adhesive core is excellent in terms of shape stability and wrinkle recovery; however, an I3 adhesive core is recommended for drape and silhouette formation. When the fabric of the adhesive core was PET, it was found to penetrate better between the fabrics during adhesion than the case of cotton fabrics.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.189-194
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• 2014

Drape property, one of the dynamic properties, is significant element of appearance and silhouette of garment. There are two methods of measuring drape property: objective method and subjective method. The purpose of this study is to search convenient method of measuring drape property which affects the appearance of garment. The method of this study was as below: First, the drape properties of ten various fabrics were measured within both of professional paper ring and visual handy measuring instrument. Second, Pearson's correlation coefficient was analyzed in order to analyze the correlation of two results of the experiments. This study used professional paper ring and visual handy measuring instrument on ten samples. Both of the results from the paper ring and visual handy measuring instrument were very similar in terms of drape property. Significant correlation between results of the professional paper ring and visual handy method indicates the efficiency of the visual handy measuring at school or work environment etc.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.8
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• pp.883-891
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• 2003

In this study, a change of hand of fabrics dyed with persimmon juice was measured using Kawabata Evaluation System. Using various cotton fabrics, linen fabric and silk fabric used frequently for persimmon juice dyeing, we examined the changes of physical properties and hand according to persimmon juice dyeing and washing. The dynamic characteristics of hand were measured tensile, shear, bending, compression, surface properties, thickness and weight. Linearity of load-extention and tensile resilience were increased in all kinds of fabrics after dyeing. Tensile energy decreased in cotton fabric 2(gauze), cotton fabric 3(muslin) and linen fabric. Shear stiffness and hysteresis of shear increased in most of fabrics. Bending rigidity of the bending property and hysteresis of bending, linearity of compression of the compression property, compression energy and compression resilience increased in all kinds of fabrics after dyeing. Thickness and weight increased much in all kinds of fabrics after dyeing. In the primary hand value, stiffness and anti-drape stiffness increased in all kind of fabrics after dyeing. The fullness and softness, crispness, scrooping feeling and flexibility with soft feeling decreased. As the stiffness after persimmons dyeing increased, it was suitable for clothes material of summer.