• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.11 no.4
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• pp.101-110
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• 2007

Since cotton fabrics with ripple finish treatment form wavy furrows on the surface or bumpy patterns, air circulation during wearing is good and the fabric is cool to the touch. The finishing principle is based on the mercerization, which utilizes the fact that cotton fibers contract in a concentrated NaOH solution. In this study, as fabric specimens, cotton fabrics with yarn counts of 40's, 60's and 80's were used. Concentrations of the NaOH solutions were 15%, 25%, and 35%. After dyeing fabrics using Rubia akane nakai, color and other properties were measured. As the concentration of the NaOH solution increased, the fabric became thicker and denser, and the number of occurrence of the prominence and depression per unit length became larger. The color of the region contracted by ripple finish became darker after dyeing, while the color of the untreated region became lighter, which enhanced the cubic effect of the ripple finish. As the count of the cotton yarn increased, the dyeability became better. As the concentration of the NaOH solution increased, the air permeability became lower.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.9 no.spc3
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• pp.243-249
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• 2006

There are many CAD commercial systems such as fabric design CAD for fabric designers and pattern design CAD including visual wearing system for garment designers. But there is no fabric design system for weaving factory, so the data base system related to the fabric design for weaving factory is needed. Therefore, in this study, as a preliminary study of the data base system for fabric design, easy decision of warp and weft densities according to the various yarn count, weave constructions and materials were surveyed through analysis of design plan for nylon and polyester fabrics from wearing factories.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.1-11
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• 2000

This paper surveys the fabric weavability and machine efficiency in the various weaving looms such as Projectile, Rapiers, and Air-jet. Used projectile loom was Sulzer-PU, and FAST-R, THEMA-11E, and Picanol-GTX were used for Rapier looms, as the Air-Jet looms, Picanol PAT and OMNI types were used. Using these looms, 5 harness worsted satin fabrics were woven for surveying the fabric weavability and machine efficiency. Warp yam count of fabric is 1/40Nm, Sirofil, and filling is 1/30 Nm, worsted. End breaks of warp and filling directions for the various types of looms are measured and discussed with the mechanism of each loom. Warp and filling yam tensions are also measured and analysed with open width of shedding motion of each weaving machine. And various warp yam tensions with open width of shedding are measured and analysed according to the warp yam in various heald frame. These results fire also discussed with temples such as bar and ring. Warp yam tensions at the various positions on the fabric with various looms are measured and discussed with fabric mechanical properties such as tensile, bending, shear and surface.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.47-57
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• 1984

Effect on the hand value and mechanical properties of blend ratio and weight had been investigated Oil summer suits for men. Relation between the mechanical properties and the deformation in behavior was also studied. The mechanical properties which influence the hand values and total hand value had been discussed and the relation between mechanical properties, hand values and fabric count had, too. As result, the following conclusions had been obtained. 1) The values of tensile properties increased with the increase of blend ratio of wool. The values of surface properties increased according to the increase of blend ratio of polyester. 2HB(bending properties) of polyester/wool blend showed higher value than that of $100\%$ wool, but there was no change in the shearing properties according to the blend ratio. The values of stiffness, crispness and anti-drape stiffness of blend fabric showed higher values than those of $100\%$ wool fabric. The value of fullness (including softness) of blend fabric showed lower value than that of $100\%$ wool fabric. 2) The correlation between hand values and mechanical properties showed following order. in stiffness : bending properties>surface properties in crispness: surface properties>bending properties in anti-drape stiffness: bending properties>surface properties>shearing properties.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.21 no.3
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• pp.43-48
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• 2009

This paper surveys the mechanical properties of nylon high tenacity coarse yarn and fabric for military and technical textiles. For this purpose, 6 kinds of yarns and 2 kinds of fabrics are prepared. The yarn physical properties such as yarn count, thermal shrinkages, and tensile properties are measured and discussed with the characteristics of the domestic and imported yarns. And, the physical and mechanical properties of these fabrics are also measured and discussed with the usage of these fabrics in the military and technical textiles fields. Hereafter, the differences of physical properties between domestic and foreign yarn specimens for high functional military and technical fabrics are estimated through this study.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.11 no.4
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• pp.16-23
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• 1999

This study was made to investigate the effects of mimosa tannin and tannic acid on change of properties and photodegradation of silk fabrics according to tannin concentration and irradiation time. The results were as follows. 1. As concentration of tannin increased, thickness, fabric count and stiffness showed no difference. But tensile strength were increased, and elongation were decreased. 2. When concentration of tannin is high, tannin adhered to surface of fabrics. 3. fR absorption bands of untreated silk fabric appeared at $3400cm^{-1},\; 1640cm^{-1},\;1445cm^{-1},\;1235cm^{-1},\;and\;675cm^{-1}$, but those of silk fabric treated with tannic acid appeared at $1710cm^{-1}\;and\;3400cm^{-1}$ by treatment of mimosa tannin, respectively. IR absorption bands of photoirradiated silk fabrics appeared at $3400cm^{-1},\;3280cm^{-1},\;2960cm^{-1},\;2920cm^{-1},\; 1720cm^{ -1},\;1380cm^{-1},\;1280cm^{-1},\;1120cm^{-1},\;and\;1070cm^{-1}$. But those bands were decreased at the silk fabrics treated with mimosa tannin and tannic acid.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.17 no.3
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• pp.470-474
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• 1993

This study carried out to get some fundamental data for designing lightweight bedding. In This study, the wool blanket, polyester/cotton blended blanket and down quilt were manufactured with a varied materials, structural factors such as yam count, fabric density respectivelyarn. And also, the thermal insulation value of the bedding were measured by warmth retaining tester. In addition, this paper examines the influence of varying materials, structural factors and blanket layers on the thermal insulation effect of the bedding. The main results obtained from this study are as follow : 1. The design of lightweight blankets make an attempting with a varying materials and structural factors such as yam count, fabric densityarn. 2. Almost, the design of lightweight blankets for polyester/cotton blended blanket and down quilt make an attempting without reduction in thermal insulation values. 3. The 6 layers of blanket have less thermal insulation value than the 6 times of blanket for under a layer have. About 27~32% decrease is observed in thermal insulation value of blanket for under 6 layer. 4. The thermal insulation value and areal weight of blankets have a positive relation between the thermal insulation value(Y) and areal weight(X) is based on the following equation. wool blanket : Y = 1.0850X + 0.4188 (r = 0.9992) PIC blended blanket : Y = 0.8845X + 0.3034 (r = 0.9999)

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.2
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• pp.355-363
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to investigate how the weave type, yarn twist fabric count and fiber content of the worsted fabrics affect the subjective sensation of the hand. Thirty worsted fabrics that were mainly used for the spring and fall ladies'suits at national brands were selected. Variables were such as four different kinds of weave types, plain, twill, satin and decorative; two levels of yarn twist, normal and high; various fabric counts; two different fiber contents, pure wool and Lycra contained. Image analysis and wavelet transform techniques were used to quantify the surface fiber, For surface characteristics, MIU, MMD and SMD were measured by KES-FB system. The Questionnaires with 23 adjectives were used for the subjective hand evaluation. Panels were So specialists of fashion or fabric designers and merchandizers. By Factor Analysis, six factors that represent the subjective hand were extracted. The relationship between these factors and structural variables were analyzed. Yarn twist was significantly related to the surface characteristics and resilience. Weave structure affected surface characteristics, volume/warm-cool feeling and resilience. Fabric counts showed relations with volume/warm-cool feeling and the fiber contents with volume/warm-cool feeling, resilience and elastic properties. MIU, MMD and SMD showed no relations with the surface fibers. Subjective sensation of surface characteristics was affected by SMD and surface fibers.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.7 no.5
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• pp.553-559
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• 2005

Hand characteristics related with structural properties of fabrics have something to do with mechanical properties of fabric. In this study, the mechanical properties and hand characteristics have been analyzed according to fabric structural parameters such as the weave structure and the linear density of weft of cotton fabric. Mechanical properties have been used by KES-FB system which measures hand characteristics and mechanical properties of fabric. Linear density of weft, tensile, bending, and shear properties are decreasing with increasing weft linear density, and there is no considerable effects on compression and surface properties. In case of formability with weft linear density, B/W, 2HG/G, 2HB/B, 2HB/W, $\sqrt[3]{B/W}$, $\sqrt{2HB/W}$, W/T except MMD/SMD, WC/T, and WC/W have been effected. There is a high correlation between the crimp, tightness, hand, formability and mechanical properties specially tensile linearity, bending, shear, and compression properties. The weft crimp influences the bending rigidity, shear properties, and the tightness which have effects on the tensile linearity, bending, shear, compression properties, hand, and formability.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.1 no.1
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• pp.54-62
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• 1989

The woven fabric composed of nylon 6 filaments was treated with aqueous solutions (20, 30, 40, 50, 60%) of formic acid at 3$0^{\circ}C$ for 10 minutes under unrestrained condition, and the shrinkage behavior and some kinds of properties were examined. The shrinkages of the constituent yarns and fabric were increased with formic acid concentration, but they were lower than that of the original filaments because of fabric-structural factors. And the shrinkage of the warp was lower than that of the weft because of the residual stress from weaving process. By the restraint forces such as fabric-structural factors and residual stress, the constituent filaments were damaged partially at 60% of formic acid concentration and the degree of damage on the warp was greater than on the weft. And though the fabric count were increased overall, the spacing between the warps was decreased prior to the weft and eliminated nearly at 60% of formic acid concentration. The thickness, tensile strength, elongation, and handle value of fabric were increased overall with formic acid concentration excepting that the tensile strength for both the warp and weft directions and the elongation for the warp direction were decreased instead by the damage of yarns. But the crease recovery was decreased except the case of the weft direction at 60% of formic acid concentration.