• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.36 no.12
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• pp.1247-1256
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• 2012

The paper details the development of a Korean style loungewear based on traditional Korean hanbok clothing. For this, we surveyed and collected data from 3,500 adults over 20 years of age. The questions were on their preferences of hanbok for both traditional and contemporary styles as well as loungewear. The survey showed that preferences for hanbok were high for both traditional and contemporary styles. The survey also suggests how a successful mass-produced Korean style loungewear should be designed to increase its popularity. It should feature comfortably simplified silhouettes, a selection of contemporary colors from Korean symbolic colors, modernized Korean textile surface designs, and easy-to-maintain healthy fabric. Based on these results, the development direction of Korean style loungewear was set and various loungewear samples were produced. Another group of survey participants were asked to try on samples and their preferences were surveyed. At the conclusion, a version that was most preferred among the participants was obtained. We suggest one-piece style and two-piece style designs with silhouettes based on the characteristics of traditional Korean costumes. The preferred fabric for loungewear was natural and soft cotton. We suggest the necessity and effectiveness of loungewear made with environment-friendly hanji-fabric. The main colors for loungewear were selected based on survey: blue, red, white, and saekdong (color stripes). We made color combinations with the main colors then applied the textile surface designs. The traditional Korean patterns of Hangeul (Korean letters), taegeuk (yin-yang), geometric figures, and samjogo (three-legged crow) were also chosen, and then loungewear using the textile designs was developed. The results have been shown on the "Han Style Fashion Show" by Jeonju City and exhibited in the "Seoul Living Design Fair" and the "International Art & Craft Trend Fair" in COEX, Seoul.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.10 no.3
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• pp.78-86
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• 2006

Coffee extract dyeing on silk fabric using various mordanting agents at different mordanting condition was studied in our previous research. Coffee extract dyeing can exert beautiful colors and have several advantages over the conventional natural dyeing. Since most of natural dyes are expensive for mass production, strongly season and source dependent, and hard to store, and therefore, coffee waste was used as natural dye to create beautiful colors in this study. Coffee waste is inexpensive and easy to store, and provide a comparatively regular quality regardless of season and source. The effects of dyeing condition such as dyeing temperature, dyeing time, and liquor ratio on dyeing characteristics of silk fabrics were investigated. Coffee extract dyed silk showed brilliant colors, and the colors were different with the kind of mordant. Cu, Sn, and Al mordanted silks showed golden yellow with subtle change of hue and value, while Fe mordanted silk showed a brownish green color upon coffee extract dyeing. As the dyeing temperature increased, the dyeability generally increased in all mordanted silk fabrics except Fe mordanted silk until $45^{\circ}C$. The dyeing temperature did not affect the dyeability of Fe mordanted silk fabric. As the liquor ratio increased, the dyeability showed a gradual increase in all mordanted silk except Cu mordanted silk. Cu mordanted silk fabric showed an abrupt increase in dyeability at liquor ratio1:150. The dyeing time effect can be separated into 2 stages. During the initial half an hour, the dyeability did not change significantly, and then, increased after 45 min. dyeing time duration. A further increase in dyeing time after 45 min. did not affect the dyeing efficiency in all mordanted silk fabrics except the Cu mordanted.

• Korean Journal of Plant Resources
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• v.20 no.3
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• pp.247-250
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• 2007

This study was performed to investigate the discrimination of Angelica gigas, Angelica acutiloba and Angelica sinensis on the treatment of chromaticity and colorfastness. Angelica gigantis root has been used as a Korean traditional medicine for the treatment of woman disease. Natural dyes give us many great benefits, including diversified color, but no pollution. These studies were carried out acetate iron, dichloride copper and alum with a mordant to ramie fabric. The ramie fabric was dyed with Angelica gigas, Angelica acutiloba and Angelica sinensis. The results of experiment showed as follows: In discrimination by dyeing, the colors of Angelica acutiloba and Angelica sinensis were very similar, but that of Angelica gigas was different. There were no differences among colors of materials using non-mordant. But dyeing with iron acetate and copper dichloride were showed dark in Angelica gigas than other angelica species.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.5
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• pp.841-851
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• 2008

The purpose of the study was to examine the effect of motif categories and motif colors on evaluating sensory image of fashion materials with the gestalt theory as the background. The research was conducted on a quasi experimental basis, with subjects numbering 187 male and 207 female college students. Data were collected in the period from march 19th to march 31st, 2007. A set of fabric stimuli and semantic differential scales were developed. The stimuli were thirteen fabric species(each measuring 12 by 13cm). Variables included; (a) motif colour(white, grey, pink and blue) (b) motif categories(plain, paisley, flower, stripes and zebra effect). The semantic differential scale to measure sensory image of fabric stimuli included 23 sets of bi-polar adjectives. The data were analysed by factor analysis and ANOVA and the major finding were as follows. 1) Four sensory dimensions emerged of importance: salience, attractiveness, comfort and softness. 2) The motif category effected on the four sensory image dimensions while the motif colour effected on salience, comfort and softness sensory dimensions. 3) An interaction effect was founded between motif category and motif colour. 4) Motif category showed significant effects on the preference and liking of the fashion, however the motif colour did not show any significant effects on the preference and liking. As a whole the results supported the gestalt theory and the results can be used for the marketing strategy for developing fashion fabrics.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.3 no.2
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• pp.124-135
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• 2000

This research investigated the difference in fabric preference over formal wear attire of 1999 Spring/Summer season between Korean and American female consumers. 25 Korean and 25 U.S.A. fabrics were used as fabric samples, and the respondents for the survey included 50 Koreans and 50 Americans in the 20s and 40s age groups. All six population groups showed similar dislike rankings toward the total fabrics (n=50). When the Korean fabrics and the U.S.A. fabrics were considered separately, the 20s and 40s age groups, especially between Korean 20s and Korean 40s, showed significant similarities in the dislike rankings. When the dislike preferences between Korean fabrics and U.S.A. fabrics were examined for different population groups, all the groups showed somewhat similar dislike rankings and in all cases U.S.A. fabrics were disliked more than the Korean fabrics. The most apparent difference in the physical characteristics of disliked fabrics was observed in jabric color. The Americans, especially the 40s age group, disliked fabrics with dark compound colors, whereas the Koreans in all age groups dislike fabrics close to bright pure colors.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.25 no.4
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• pp.241-246
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• 2013

The color properties of a white or nearly colorless fabric are represented by whiteness index (WI) or yellowness index (YI). These two indexes relate to a white fabric's color quality. The purpose of this study was to identify the properties of WI and YI on the CIELAB through the simulations of estimation data for a systemization of color quality control. The results indicated that the relationship between WI and YI was a negative correlation, however the coefficients of correlation function between WI and YI were depended on hue. There were two hue transition points of the rate of changes in WI and YI. These hue transition points were the reference points to divide the hue contribution to WI and YI. These points were not the point of h=0 and h=180 and asymmetric. In addition, where the colors were same distance from the white point on the CIELAB, the rate of changes in WI and YI by ${\Delta}$Ew were depending on hue. Specifically, when WI decreased, YI of reddish and yellowish tinted colors decreased more than bluish tinted colors.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.9
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• pp.18-28
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to examine the Characteristics of Fashion Trends($1996{\sim}2005$) of Korea by the trend elements - style, fabric and color. The results of this study are as followed. During 10years, 'modern(18%)', 'elegant(11%)' and 'romantic(10%)' styles were shown in order, and colors of YR(17%), Y(14%), R(13%) and PB(11%) were shown in order. Considering tones, m(16%), d(12%), gy(11%) and s(10%) tones were in the order of frequency. In the fabric trend 'elegant(19%)', 'modern(14%)' and 'natural(14%)' images showed the high frequency. Since 2000's, style trends and fabric trends were subdivided, and the contrary images coexisted. The trend images of 'natural', 'retro', 'manish' and 'fun' were mainly used in fabric trend, and 'romantic' and 'classic' images were frequently used in style trend. The changes of trend images in style and fabric have been similar until the early 2000's but the cycle of trend of style became shorter than fabric trend. Therefore the cycle of fabric trend should be changed to be a short term and subdivided in company with style trend.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.3
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• pp.493-511
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• 2000

The objective of this study was to trace and to examine costume terminologies recorded in Pak Tong Sa Eun Hae. Names of costumes and costume related terms were collected from P마 Tong Sa Eun Hae. Books and various references from China and Korea were used for this study. Costume terms were examined from the Chinese and Korean. Classifications of costume terminologies from the data were made for the analysis : man and woman's costume, accessories, names of fabrics, colors, and decorative motifs used, professional costume, special occasion dresses and so on. Conclusions and summary of results and findings can be summerized as follows : It revealed that manes of man's costume and other costume related words were a large in number compared with those of woman. Only one name of woman's costume appeared in the text : It was kind of long vests. However, names of accessories such as a hat, a hat decorated with jewels and phoenix design, a hair pin, earings, bracelets, finger rings, a soft belt were shown in the text. While many costume names of man included in the text were of garments such as a kind of long vest, a short vest, an outer robe, a kind of long coat with pleated skirt, leg coverings, outer jacket and so on. Also names of undergarments such as an under skirt, a belly covering, and drawers were found in the text. Fabric names were mostly silks such as brocade, twill, sarcenet, damasks and plain silks. Blue was the most widely appeared fabric color in the text and red was the second. Design motifs of fabric design were of dragon, flowers, eight precious things, clouds which were characteristic design motifs of the Chinese. It was found that some of the Chinese costume terminologies were translated into the Korean although many Chinese costume terms were used as the original Chinese.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.6
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• pp.29-40
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• 2009

On April 28th of 2006, a set of Buddha's reliquary was excavated from the pagoda in n Nacsan Temple. According to the record, the relics were put in the pagoda in the 18th year of King SookJong in the Chosun Dynasty (1692). The present paper examines ten pieces of wrapping clothes covering reliquary found in the pagoda. They are especially precious data in the history of textiles because they were blocked off from outside and was preserved in good condition with vivid colors still remaining after more than 300 years. Of the ten pieces of wrapping cloth, five were double-layered and the other five were single-layered. They include 15 pieces of silk fabric but, excluding repeated use of the same silk fabric, the total of 11 pieces of silk fabric were examined. All 11 kinds of silk fabric were patterned, 9 of which were Satin and the other 2 were Twill. Of the 9 Satin pieces, 8 pieces were 5-end satin which had the ground of 5-end warp satin with the figure of 5-end weft satin. The remaining 1 Satin piece were more splendid with prominent figures by using warp and weft of different colors. The 2 Twill pieces used twill weave-the ground was 3-end warp twill and the figures were 5-end weft twill. Both of the Twill pieces were weaved with character patterns, partly using wrapped gold thread as supplementary weft. The patterns of 11 pieces of silk fabric include flower, dragon/phoenix, cloud, and geometric patterns. Five were flower patterns, three were dragon/phoenix patterns, two were geometric pattern, and one was cloud pattern. In addition, various treasure patterns, character patterns were utilized as supplementary patterns. The flower and phoenix patterns reflect characteristics of the textiles of the 17th century whereas check pattern and cloud pattern were very unique.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.11 no.6
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• pp.953-960
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• 2009

The natural dyeing of fabrics with myrobalan extract was investigated. After dyeing of silk, cotton and rayon with myrobalan extract, the dyeability of myrobalan extract was evaluated with the conditions of concentration, temperature, time, repeat-numbers, pH, mordants variables, the changes of dyeability and surface colors by methods of mordanting and color fastness. The wavelength of maximum absorption of the colored solution from myrobalan extract appeared at 272 nm. Therefore, the substance of myrobalan extract was verified as tannin dyes. The optimum dyeing of fabrics was carried out at 30%(o.w.f) dye concentration. Silk fabrics dyed with myrobalan extract showed the highest K/S value at the temperature of $80^{\circ}C$ when it was dyed for seventy minutes, while cotton and rayon fabrics showed the highest K/S value at the temperature of $90^{\circ}C$ when they were dyed for seventy minutes and thirty minutes, respectively. Dyeing operation was carried out in acidic dyebath of pH 3. The K/S value of silk fabric was higher in pre-mordant stage than in post-mordant, while the K/S values of cotton and rayon fabrics were higher in post-mordant stage. The surface colors of dyed fabrics were different according to used mordants: Al and Cu mordanted fabrics were dyed in yellowish colors, while Fe mordanted fabric was dyed in khaki-black color. Light-fastness of the color fastness was improved in Fe-mordant. Washing-fastness was relatively good, and dry cleaning-fastness of dyed fabrics was excellent.