• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.56-62
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• 2005

Fancy Yarn has developed diverse textures in fabrics, reducing the time in yarn and fabric production or apparel making in order to develop creative goods. In this study aimed to propose the use of a 4D box system to make fancy yarn shapes with loops, knops and spirals and the like. The change in texture was analysed and simulated to produce a suitable fabric image by using the fancy yarns fabric. The results are as follows. The plain weave, 2/2 basket weave, 2/2 twill weave, 2/2 2 complete broken weaves, and 5 harness sateen weaves were woven and a fabric image formed. In the case of the loop and the knop yarns fabric image, compared to the twisted fabric image the surface was covered by loops or some parts became partially black. In the case of the spiral shape it showed pattern continuity in spiral shapes 1, 2 and 3. The more twisted spirals produced a diamond shaped pattern or a twill line and a herring bone shaped twill line. An evenly distributed black fabric image appeared in 5 harness sateen weave. For the loop shape the broken weave or 5 harness sateen weave was produced; basket weave and broken weave for the knop yarn 1 or knop yarn 2; and for the spiral shape a plain fabric or 5 harness sateen weave were produced much similar to the fabric image. The surface texture of the mapped image compared to the twisted fabric image produces fancy yarn fabric images covered with loops or irregular spots caused by the knop and the spiral. Therefore it is appropriate or suitable for the simulation of tweed or woolen wool fabrics. The fabric image which produced consistent and continuous lines is therefore more suitable for simulations of twill or herringbone fabric images.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.594-603
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• 2012

This study aimed to investigate a bias pattern making method with geometrical approach. The bias-cut dress has soft silhouette of drape in the garment. However, the bias cut dress has problem of satisfying the intended garment size spec. This problem occurs from various sources. The main reason is that the bias-cut fabric tends to stretch on longitudinal direction and to shrink horizontal direction when it was hung on the body. The goal of this study was to develop a bias-cut dress pattern making method satisfying the intended garment size spec. The researchers developed the geometrical method of measuring dimensional change by calculating the compensation ratio of the fabric in true bias direction. The compensation ratio was calculated by applying draping ratio of the fabric. Three types of fabrics were used in the experiment. The warp and weft crossing angle of fabric was ranged from $78^{\circ}$ to $82^{\circ}$. The fabrics stretched longitudinally 6.9~9.9% and shrank horizontally 7.2~11.0%. The compensation ratio of the bias-cut pattern for sample dress was calculated for each fabric type. Two types of experimental bias-cut dress patterns were developed for each fabric. One pattern was made with applying full compensation ratio and the other one made with applying partial ratio of the fabric. Experimental dresses were made with these patterns. The results of the evaluation showed that the bias-cut dress pattern applying the partial compensation ratio was more appropriate than the pattern applying the full compensation ratio.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.25 no.4
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• pp.9-18
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• 1987

This study is conducted to investigate the influence of addition of quarternary ammonium salt(cetyl trimethyl ammonium bromide: CTAB) when polyester(PET) fabric is treated with sodium hydroxide(NaOH), depending on experimental variables such as CTAB concentration, NaOH concentration, time & temperature, and the change in physical & chemical properties of alkaline-hydrolyzed PET fabrics depending on their weight loss. The results are as follows: 1. By adding CTAB in aqueous NaOH, the weight loss of PET fabric is increased remarkably and until the concentration of CTAB is reached at its cmc, and the higher the concentration of CTAB are, the more weight loss on PET fibrics are. 2. The addition of CTAB in aqueous NaOH is most effective at lower NaON concentration(2%) among various NaOH concentration, on increasing the amount of weight loss, while there are almost similar results through various treatment time and temperature. 3. As the amount of weight of weight loss on PET fabric is increased, the increase of void space in the PET yarn, of softness & dyeability of PET fabric and the decrease of tensile strength are found. On the other hand, the moisture regain shows a little increase by alkaline-hydrolysis on PET fabric while vertical absorption test & water retention value are not sufficiently sensitive to distinguish between the hydrophillicity of untreated and treated PET fabric. The shrinkage of PET fabric is induced by swelling in hot aqueous NaOH regardless of NaOH concentration & addition of CTAB.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.20 no.5
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• pp.783-791
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• 1996

The effect of alkali treatment on the changes in characteristics, mechanical properties, and hand of polyester fabrics was studied. Two kinds of fabrics having different yarn deniers were treated varying weight loss. The results were as follows; 1. Changes in constructional characteristics by alkali treatment were: a decrease in weight & thickness of fabric, a decrease in yarn denier, a decrease in apparent density of fabric, an increase in porosity to air, and a change fiber surface. 2. As for the changes in mechanical properties by alkali treatment, findings were : an increase in WT, RT, MIU, LC, and WC, a decrease in LT, B,2HB, G,2HG,2HGS, MMD, SMD, and RC, ana an increase in drape. 3. Changes in hand by alkali treatment were: a decrease in KOSHI and HARE, an increase in FUUURAMI, SHARI, KISHIMI, and SHENAYAUASA, and an increase in T.H.V 4. In the case of the same weight loss, the hand of 40/24 fabric being composed of thinner yarns was better than the hand of 50/24 fabric. 5. When 50/24 fabric was treated to have the same weight with 40/24 fabric, so the yam deniers of two fabrics were the same, the hand of 50/24 fabric having larger weight loss was better than the hand of 40/24 fabric.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.3 no.1
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• pp.35-41
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• 2001

Dyeing properties of silk fabric with onion shell were studied by investigating the effect of dyeing conditions, such as concentration of onion shell, dyeing temperature, dyeing time and pH, on dye uptakes. And also the effects of mordants and mordanting methods or color change and dye uptakes were investigated. For the practical use, the various color fastness of dyed and mordanted fabric were evaluated. The color fastness was improved when Fe mordant was added.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.12 no.3
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• pp.159-165
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• 2000

This study surveys the fabric mechanical properties according to the weaving design & finishing conditions of wool fabrics for quality control in the process. For this purpose, 8 kinds of Twill groups and 3 kinds of Plain groups weave fabrics, totally 428 woven fabrics are prepared with change of the yarn count, density and finishing method. Fabric thickness, bending rigidity, extensibility, shear rigidity, formability of the fabrics were measured and discussed with weaving design & finishing conditions.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.23 no.6
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• pp.820-828
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• 1999

The purpose of this study was to investigate the changes of pore area and water vapour transport by the changes of moisture regain and fabric structure of wool fabrics, As specimens 4 worsted wool fabrics were used. The pore area were measured by image analysis method and dinamic vapour transport and water reisitance was determined by clothing-environment-body modelling system. The pore area was changed by the moisture regain of wool fabrics. The change of pore area was influenced by the yarn twist thread count and cover factor and the weave type. The water vapour transport was changed by the moisture regain. The change of water vapour transport was influenced by the change of pore aree which was determined by image analysis.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.18-26
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• 2002

Chitosan has reactive amino and hydroxyl groups which can be used to chemically alter its properties under the mild reaction conditions. Thus the cationization of Tencel with Chitosan is effective to modify the fabric. To investigate the modified properties of Tencel fabric, the tests were performed under the several finishing process with enzyme/glutaraldehyde/softener. The internal structure of Tencel which has the structure of cellulose II wasn't changed by enzyme, chitosan and crosslinking agent treatment and the thermal stability was improved by chitosan and crosslinking agent treatment. Wrinkle recovery angle under the dry condition increased highly until $0.1\textrm{mol}/\ell$ of glutaraldehyde concentration, and then decreased. Tensile strength of modified Tencel fabric decreased with increasing of weight loss, but it was improved more or less by chitosan, crosslinking agent and softener. Moisture regain was improved by enzyme and chitosan treatment. And antibacterial activity showed nearly 100% on Tencel fabric treated with 0.5% chitosan and adsorption of metal ion increased with increasing of chitosan concentration.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.10 no.5
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• pp.48-55
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• 1998

Polyester fabric is widely used in textile material though it has some problems such as low colour value, high refractive ratio(1.62) and etc. In order to give Z-black colour of polyester fabric, this study has selected several disperse dyes by measuring of absorbance, dyed in their optimum conditions and treated with 4 kinds of low refractive compounds such as silicone, fluorine, urethane and silicone-fluorine mixed compounds. The bathochromic effect of treated PET fabric evaluated as lightness(L) change by uv-visible spectrophotometer. This study also investigated that the effect of used bathochromic agents on the washing and lightfastness of treated PET fabric.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.2 no.2
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• pp.118-122
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• 2000

Dyeing properties of silk fabric with loess were studied by investigating the effect of dyeing conditions, such as concentration of loess, dyeing temperature and time, on dye uptakes. And also the effects of mordant and mordanting methods on color change and dye uptakes were inverstigated. For the practical use, the various color fastness of dyed fabric were evaluated. The dye uptakes of dyed fabric were increased gradually with increasing concentration of loess, dyeing time and temperature. The K/S value of dyed fabric most efficient for the premordanting method. The color fastness was improved when mordants were added.