• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.29-37
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• 2017

Due to the pursuit of individuality by modern consumers, the day has come when it is hard for design to be sustained solely by external beauty. Accordingly, products with the psychological value and brand stories are appearing, so that products that reinterpret traditional crafts are now being appreciated for their merits. Handmade goods defined as new luxury goods or products of high-quality craftsmanship are being used to enhance the consumer's individual image, and has created an unprecedented consumer stratum structure. Japan is one of the countries that actively applies traditional crafts to contemporary design and this study aims to investigate cases that are being reinterpreted in modern fashion in the theme of Boro, which is not as well known among Japanese traditional crafts. The purpose of this study is to offer basic data for designers by investigating the cases of the reinterpretation of traditional crafts. In addition, in reinterpreting traditional crafts into other fields, it is regarded as a meaningful way to contribute to a variety of other ideas. As the research method, first, the definition and kind of Boro were investigated utilizing the related literature information about the traditional fabric of Boro, which is the starting point and basis of the research. Second, Japanese aesthetic sense defined in the previous research was classified and the relationship of the anti-decorative aesthetic sense and Boro investigated. Third, after classifying the reinterpretation cases of Boro that have appeared in four major fashion collections and designer brands from 2011 to 2016 by the selected aesthetic sense, its characteristics were investigated. The search for examples of the reinterpretation of Boro uses the results of the keyword search of Boro and Boro Fashion via the internet search engine Google from April 2016 to December 2016. In addition, the search results were selected on the basis of whether the designer specified borrowing from Boro or whether Boro on the collection order was included or not. In addition to introducing an unknown fabric craft, this study also raises the methodological problems of the reinterpretation of traditional crafts. Products containing psychological value are expected to come into the spotlight in the upcoming consumer market. Therefore, as a follow-up study, it is suggested to research examples in which various crafts are being applied as products before one knows, how this creates new originality, and the limitations involved in this.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.25-34
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• 2010

Design in the 21st Century requires showing extraordinary and revolutionary possibilities by merging multiple cultures or different art forms. 21C fashion also increases its's complexity through the blending in of other design field's styles and forms. In other words, 21C's fashion design involves not only clothing, but combines techniques, aspects and functions fulled from various design categories. As a result, Current fashion design becomes more unique, and shows various styles. From this point of view, this study focuses on creating and suggesting unique textile designs through the understanding of design processes of textiles, which are inspired by high tech architectural structures. The fundamental shape of the architectural structures were simplified into thick lines and geometric shapes. these design elements were then transferred into textile designs. As a result, unique textile looks were created, and were applied to the apparel designs by CAD to see 3d simulations. Exchanging or merging ideas of different design categories leads innovative and fresh looks. 21C is rapidly changing, and designers need to continually introduce new looks every season. Incorporating 21st Century consumption patterns, designers must understand the process of creating original designs through various methods. The innovative fabric designs for this study involved a creative process of drawing from a step by step breakdown of two separate design fields, which were then merged into one finished design. The data and research from this study can be used as a reference tool for any further applicable fashion and textile designs in the future.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.129-144
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• 2017

Throughout the rich human history, patterns have developed as a symbolic sign and representation of the inner psychology of human beings. Thanks to its intrinsic beauty and emotional richness, the flower has been utilized as a one of the major materials for patterns used in everyday life and art. As a product of nature, floral patterns have played a key role in fashion trends as a Surface Design with other elements of fashion design such as silhouette, fabric and color. Therefore, this research sought to identify the trends of floral patterns of women's garments that appeared at the four major global fashion collections (Paris, Milano, New York and London), and to analyze how importantly the fashion magazines' prediction were applied in the actual collections. Furthermore, the research aimed to suggest possible methods to utilize trend magazines for collections in the future. As a main research method, the authors investigated professional fashion literature and internet websites to extract a total of 4,681 items presented by sixteen designers who participated in the four major global fashion collections each time during the period of the 2012 S/S~2017 S/S seasons. First View Korea and Samsung Design Net were used as major sources for the pattern extraction and analysis. According to the analysis, floral patterns account for 31%(1,454 items) among the total number of patterns appearing in the four major global fashion collections(4,681 items). For the reflection ratio, Samsung Design Net recorded a 4% higher ratio(52%) than First View Korea(48%). Based on the data and analysis of this research, the authors expect that floral patterns in various forms will be continuously presented in fashion collections, and conclude that utilizing fashion magazines is highly useful due to their appropriate predictions.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.8
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• pp.1227-1240
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• 2009

This study examines the actual conditions of toddler playwear preference survey for design and function. The study develops proper indoor and outdoor playwear for toddlers based on the analysis. A survey of 200 parents with toddlers between 2 and 6 years old and 120 teachers was conducted to find the conditions and needs for playwear along with the necessary design elements. Second, 6 designs including 3 designs for indoor playwear and 3 designs for outdoor playwear were made. These designs emphasized on soil contamination part, color, pattern, form, material, detail, and fasteners. Art play and cooking play are considered for indoor playwear and ways to decrease contamination on sleeve hem, elbow, chest, and knee were determined through the use of yellow, green, and blue colors. Applying a character and separate top with sleeves were determined. Light with breathable and waterproof fabric was determined. The correct amount of Velcro fasteners or buttons was determined for front fastening in addition a pocket was considered necessary as a detail part. The common design for both boys and girls along with a proper design for diverse play were determined. For outdoor playwear, water play, sand play, movement play, and ecology experience are considered and ways to decease contamination on hip, sleeve hem, and knee should be applied to the design as determined through the use of yellow, green, blue, and red colors. The demands for pattern, form, material, and details were similar to indoor playwear. Zipper and buttons for front fastening were determined. These final 6 playwear designs are presented using CAD WALK DESIGNWARE.

• Journal of Korean Society for Quality Management
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• v.46 no.3
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• pp.425-440
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• 2018

Purpose: This study is aimed at developing of the flex resistance testing process at low temperature with the waterproof fabric to suit the military environment, and is designed to fit for the purpose of the waterproof materials in order to optimize the test method by finding out matters to improve from existing the test method and through previous studies. Methods: The test method, which has been applied to flex resistance of existing water-repellent materials, was improved and consequently, differentiated test results could be obtained according to the test temperature, sample size, and flexing method. Results: The testing of the total of 8 samples revealed that performance of the military requirement could hardly be met just by presenting the materials or 2~3 layers when the quality criteria for high functional water repellent fabrics were applied. PTFE(Polytetrafluoroethylene) is preferred to PU(Polyurethane) to be used in the extremely low-temperature environment, but durability under the low-temperature environment may be varied depending on film thickness or laminating technique even if the materials of waterproof films are identical. Therefore, in addition to the material or texture, the test method capable of reflecting durability under the low-temperature environment shall be suggested, and the newly designed test method proposed in this study was shown to suggest differentiated quality criteria by the material. Conclusion: The water resistance measurement and the test method following flex resistance with expanded range of flex will enable the differentiable test of the samples according to the number of repetition. This study is meaningful in that it suggests a differentiable test method capable of establishing a basis of deciding suitable material when selecting military goods made of water repellent material by properly improving the test method.

• The KIPS Transactions:PartB
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• v.11B no.6
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• pp.683-690
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• 2004

Garment modeling and simulation is now one of the important elements in broad range of digital contents. Though there have been recent products on garment simulation, general users do not know well enough how to design a virtual costume that meets some requirements about its specific clothing pattern. In particular, Hanbok - the Korean traditional costume - has many different characteristics against western ones in the aspect of its pattern design and of draping. This paper presents a knowledge-driven approach for virtual Hanbok modeling without knowing how to make real Hanbok. First, parameterized knowledge for several fabric types art solicited using visual similarity assessment from simulated and real cloth. Secondly, based on the analysis of designer's knowledge, we defined multi-level adjustment processes of Hanbok measurements with regard to body shape features for different virtual actors. An experimental system is developed as the form of a Maya plug-in and the result shows the applicability of the proposed method.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.97-103
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• 2008

This research thesis is designed to put Korean traditional and unique wedding dress with a greater significance and value than any other dress into application right for the global and contemporary trend, as part of a bid to show Korean traditional beauty. To do it, this thesis has attempted to add the traditional beauty to Korean inherent wedding dress and contemporary wedding dress, with the use of various traditional beauty elements, such as the line firm, materials and color based on the research on wedding dress, such as, 'Wonsam' or 'Unlined Jacket, and 'Long-sleeve Red Silk Jacket', and 'Dangeu' or 'Court Suit' that women wore in the Joseon Dynasty. To recreate Korean traditional beauty of line this research thesis has firstly put into the application the sleeve of 'Wonsam' or 'Unlined Jacket' and the form of a large section of 'Wonsam' of 'Unlined Jacket', and 'Doreyon Line' or 'Trimming Line' of 'Dangeu' or 'Court Suit' as wedding dress that women wore in the Joseon Dynasty. Secondly, this thesis has applied lotus and peony patterns out of traditional ones inlaid with 'Long-Sleeve Silk Jacket' into the contemporary wedding dress to develop a creative and special design. Thirdly, regarding the expressive pattern technique, this thesis has designed the repetitive rhythmical pattern with the use of beading technique and embroidery technique, which makes needle work picture and pattern in fabric. Lastly, it can demonstrate the original and distinct Korean style in application of western wedding dress into traditional and contemporary dress, by devising two collections of dress art pieces.

• Korean Institute of Interior Design Journal
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• no.25
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• pp.229-235
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• 2000

Although Frank Lloyd Wright represents himself as one of the greatest American master architect, the master architects contribution towards the advancement in the modern history of architecture goes beyond just creating landmark buildings. Through out his life, he was the leading architect not only in the area or architectural design but showed his talent in interior architecture, furniture, fabric, lighting fixture, art glasses, tablewares, silver wares as well as in graphic design which should cover all the elements related to the "total design" in architecture. As seen in his architectural design, the "total design" concept also reflects both beauty and logic of the nature and strengthens his theory of the organic architecture design. The research began with finding out the relationship between his architecture, nature and the supporting design elements mentioned above. the purpose of the research is to analyze the relationship of the spatial organization and the design elements in Frank Lloyd Wrights architectural works from the point of "total design" view and provide the valuable guide line for the development of the modern interior design. His design theory, based on the fundamental ideas of the nature, his organic architecture design, and reference materials to support total design concept will be discussed on chapter 2. And on chapter 3, application of the total design in his actual project will be analyzed. The data and analyzation have been completed based on written references and actual visit to the project sites. Frank Lloyd Wright placed highest value on the human beings and enjoyed presenting new ideas and forms to create better environment for the humans through his architecture and interior design projects. While he was presenting new ideas he continued to support design for democracy which has close relationship to the new frontier spirit of America. He was the master architect for the general society with accurate understanding of the life style of the public with design sensitivity shown in his concept of the total design.s concept of the total design.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.11 no.3
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• pp.135-141
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• 2009

In this paper, Tagetes extracts were extracted from leave, root, stem and flower at $100^{\circ}C$ for 20 minutes. Silk fabrics were dyed with Tatetes Patula L. to investigate the dyeing properties in accordance with dye concentration, pH, temperature, time of pre-, simul- and post-treatment of mordants using the three types of mordants. As a result, the surface color of the silk fabrics was yellowish regardless of the types of mordants. However, the a values were decreased and b values were increased in the order of the dyeing using Al>Cu>Fe: Al mordanted silk fabrics were appeared in greenish yellow and Fe mordanted silk fabrics were done in redish yellow. K/S values of the silk fabrics treated with Fe mordant were 3 times higher than those of Al and Cu mordants according to the increase in dye concentration. This behaviour was shown even in the increase of mordant concentration due to the interaction of mordant and pigments of Tatetes Patula L. But, the types of mordants did not affect because the equilibrium was obtained in 20 minutes in a similar way. And it showed that the highest K/S value of the silk fabrics studied was pH 4 and $80^{\circ}C$ regardless of the types of mordants.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.9
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• pp.1470-1478
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• 2010

This study investigates the suitability of outdoor wear among female trekkers in their twenties or thirties and provides data for developing outdoor wear more suitable for young females. Recently climbing has gained popularity as a leisure activity to enjoy the beauty of nature that increases physical and mental stamina. A survey was conducted on 304 female consumers in their twenties and thirties who enjoyed climbing in order to investigate the suitability of outdoor wear among young female consumers. The questionnaire covered the subjects' demographic information, duration and goal of climbing, purchase and suitability of outdoor wear, and preferred design for outdoor wear. As for the yearly situations, when they utilized outdoor wear, the biggest number of respondents chose "autumn" as the season for climbing. Most of the respondents were non-professional trekkers who enjoyed climbing as a hobby or for health. As for the size, the upper garment was 90 and 85 in the order, and the lower garment was 70 and 67 in the order. The pants were the most common item they owned, followed by round T-shirts, windbreaker jackets, zipup T-shirts, and waterproof jackets. They mentioned moisture absorption and dry fabric breathability as the basic functions required of outdoor wear. The subjects displayed a preference for partial details under the design category. They most preferred the hood-type jacket with a detachable stand collar, the sleeve hem with a partial rubber band and velcro strap, a T-shirt with a stand color and zipper, the waist fit with proper room, pants with a partial rubber band waist, and straight silhouette pants.