Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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v.18
no.3
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pp.183-196
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2016
The purpose of this research is to find out the characteristics of sexuality expressed in the contemporary modern fashion jacket, especially designer Thom Browne. Thom Browne is a very successful fashion brand that has focused on design of extraordinary theme. In the research methodology, the analysis was carried out over a total of 862 work pieces in the collection of S/S, F/W, RESORT, PRE-FALL from 2010 to 2016. The characteristics of the contemporary expressions of sexualities can be subdivided into four separate categories. First, The demolition is inflated retail, exaggerated shoulder silhouettes, such as short sleeve jacket is mainly used in the form of a women's match with each other and expressed by different materials applied to men. Female jackets are designed for the silhouette to highlight the strong masculine image to highlight additional detail on the chest or vice versa, to express women's jacket to distort the female. Secondly, Sensuality is designed the body of a male was represented by a design that gives a greater masculinity was expressed that the interpretation of the male gender in detail jacket sleeves and wrap the exposed areas of the important men of fashion. Women's jacket by using a see-through material, mainly sensory Castle outward to reveal the concealed body of the female form a natural curve shows the feminine sensuality. Lastly, Incongruity is inadequate representation by sex of clothing to match the jacket and skirt in women's wear it is also unsuitable for revealing gender as male by applying soot forms. The study attempts to find the meaning in that this presents the direction of the creative development of the modern fashion design based on the aesthetic characteristics of Thom Browne fashion appearing in the modern fashion.
The findings of this study indicate that intangible cultural properties are worth preservation and transmission and should be considered as very important as tangible cultural properties. If the studies of intangible cultural properties are continued focusing on their characteristics and formational system, they can be expressed more properly by adding new interactive elements to database and expressive requisites. New techniques introduced in this study are believed to provide people with most reasonable and developmental motives for expression of the existing intangible cultural properties. Concerning Korea's cultural properties centered on intangible cultural properties, information construction should be made with a new idea of information based on database from the previous studies. The result will be able to set an important factor to give wide publicity to our cultural identity, which is currently shown in the process of background communication, and serve as a foothold to deliver exact information to our descendants. The intangible cultural properties are our people's mental cultural heritage resources. If museums or initiator groups, which are organized to spread cultural heritages, can use them as the subjects of exhibition through information construction and visualization, it will function to maximize the educational effect of transmitting our national mental world. The development of digital environment will provide the optimum conditions and tools making it possible to visualize intangible forms and ideas in a virtual cyber space. Given these viewpoints, steady studies and efforts for the improvement of Korea's cultural image should be made in the way of intangible cultural properties as well as tangible ones. They start from the country's accurate appreciation of cultural properties and are embodied in systematic adjustment and relationship between interdependent elements.
In this study, we examine a variety of influences in the field of design and analysis about the value of visual tactile design. In hair design, through study on visual tactility, creative design inspiration in the field of hair design enables development of quality research. Research methods use Internet publications such as local and foreign data, analysis, and related research and book forms, such as network searches. library goes for consideration by a literature search. Contents of this study used review of the case and by visual tactility design, for this study, expressive characteristics by color, texture and form of hair design, from 2014-2017 trend shown in the last three years the expressions of visual tactility being used through the analysis of design by date of the case. Result of this study is, visual tactile design appearing in the areas of hair design, that are not of the rules that are active, abstract form, texture, described as a visual feel the promotion of effective, and light and high brightness is sweet tactile impression, high saturation was cold, dark color was hard and heavy, red system is warm and the blue system is cold sense. In general, design trend in hair for three years from 2014-2017, visual tactility in 2014 is a high saturation and unstructured also soft and bright colors. 2015 is on the overall shape, color, texture, hybrid design configuration is more. As of 2016, 2017 is curved and straight texture, appearance of the hybrid mix to maximize the visual tactility.
The 1990s' characteristics of Ecological architectural design would be choosing the traditional materials of the region's, the creative usage of construction methods, the expressive properties of materiality in spatial forms and so on. The overall organic relationships between human and men-made environments have been sublimated by the expression of poetic qualities of perception in ecological man-made environment. Hannover Expo 2000 did set up an opportunity to exposure the fact that Ecological Architecture will be the major trend in 21st Century's Architecture and its exploration in possible ways will be the most important matter. Japanese Architect Shigeru Ban's Japan Pavilion in this Exposition has shown the meaning of this turning point in Ecological Architectural thinking, which would be recognized as the convincing possibilities for the future architectural practice to the public. Thus this research has the purpose to study the meaning of the constructing action in Shigeru Ban's recent architectural space-making practice with the Paper Tube structural system. The creative foundation of Shigeru Ban's own method to apply paper tube -that is impossible material to pre-estimate- and other materials in the creation of architectural spaces would be searched in this paper. The period to this research will be between 1990s and 2000s, and the subject will be the experimental architecture of Shigeru Ban. The range of this research Is including the process of development in the paper tube architectural structure and joint system. This study would contribute to understand the intrinsic value of Shigeru Ban's Ecological architecture of the paper tube system, in which the relationship between the regional environment and human regaining the ecological abiogenesis.
This study examined a phenomenon of exaggerated hairstyle in the history of Western custom through publications related with Western costume and research papers. By adopting the criteria of Delong, M. R. to analyze visual forms shown by interaction between human body and costume worn over the body, it analyzed the formative characteristics by the interaction between hairstyle and costume. In addition, it inferred the aesthetic characteristics through content analysis of examined phenomenon focusing on socio-cultural background and costume socio-psychological precedent studies. Formative characteristics of exaggerated hairstyle applied by analysis criteria of Delong, M. R. were in pursuit of the emphasis style. This was clearly and intensively recognized by forming spaces for mostly closure style, part style, three dimensional style, determinate style, and space separation style. Regarding the interaction between hair and ornamentations, 'precedence of ornamentation' was pursued as ornamentations were recognized earlier than the hair itself. It means associative meanings of the surface effect were accompanied by emotions of 'intensiveness' and the pursuit of the attractive style. As for the interaction between hairstyle and costume, there were many cases of pursuing 'continuity' mutually and visually by connecting the hairstyle and the costume. Aesthetic characteristics of exaggerated hairstyle were inferred as 1) the expression of the sprite of the age(i.e. art, culture, politics, society, ideology, religion), 2) symbols of wealth, class, authority, and excellence, 3) pursuit of addicted desire to ornament, and 4) harmony through continuity with costume. This study verified that hairstyle was connected as a part of costume, or formed as a way to express deeper human psychology beyond just a part of a costume. It was also confirmed that hairstyle was an expressive method to express the spirit of the age, such as art, culture, society, religion, ideology.
This study considers the expressive types of 'Glocalism' trends and its inherent aesthetic characteristics through the analysis of flight attendants' uniform design. The following is the conclusions regarding the glocalism trend according to the analysis of airline uniform design that reflect it. First, the design approach was developed appropriating the whole or parts of traditional attire and applying decorative items in terms of a formal aspect. Secondly, the colors of the airline's homeland symbols or natural environment were used while, thirdly, the fabrics represent glocalism by employing folk elements of the region and patterns of nature for a uniform design. Induced from these design analyses, the aesthetic characteristics of airline uniforms reflecting glocalism are traditionality, naturality, and compromisability. To begin with, traditionality is what is realized in interpreting the historical aesthetics in a contemporary perspective, contributing in inspiring the historical value of the homeland and contributing to the establishment of identity by applying forms and colors of traditional garments with folk patterns on a uniform design. In addition, naturality means the reorganization of unprocessed pure nature, expressing the image of nature through colors taken from the natural environment or motifs of the regional plants. Finally, combining general sensibilities with diverse cultural features, compromisability is realized as a modern design which combines a standardized uniform with the aesthetic components of the local environment and traditional garments.
The purpose of this study was to propose various directions for effectively proposing window displays that satisfy changing consumer needs by investigating and analyzing the characteristics of unexpected expressions used in recent Christmas windows. Research was conducted by investigating unexpectedness in window displays through literature reviews and previous studies. To observe unexpectedness in Christmas windows, website-based case images of window displays from the six years between 2010 and 2015 were collected from the department stores of Bergdorf Goodman, Printemps, Selfridges, and Isetan. Unexpected expressions in department-store Christmas window displays could be categorized into four expressive methods of hybrid expressions, figurative expressions, amusing expressions, and exaggerative expressions. The results were as follows: First, hybrid expressions are interpreted by consumers as having new or diverse meanings that change the original external forms of subjects or objects. Second, Christmas colors are used in the window backgrounds' figurative expressions, but these windows do not use excessive expressions; furthermore, these windows personify people as animals and anthropomorphize animals as people, using subjects to depict other subjects to show unfamiliar images. Third, amusing expressions are used to decorate windows with unique and novel ideas that provide stimulation and amusement for customers and capture their attention through the composition of windows that entail childish props and elements that create funny. Fourth, exaggerative expressions deliberately stretch and expand subjects or objects in windows to elicit customers' curiosity and interest through emphasis.
This study selects mannequins. fashion models. and fashion photographs as communication media to express the beauty of an ideal body. Each medium is discussed by the denotative and connotative aspects through the semiology. First, the mannequins are the most concrete medium which can form women's ideal body types and reproduce images in which the idealistic human body are coded in various figures. It embodies such various figures of the modem society by being replaced with the symbolic representation of our intrinsic·extrinsic forms. From a denotative view, the mannequins can be explained by ideal body types and expressive tools. The mannequin has implied connotative meanings of the similarity and dissimilarity between the actual body and itself. Second, fashion models have played a role in transmitting fashion images and presenting the ideal body. As fashion has adopted the body as its object fashion models have been used to express an ideal body. The development of the mass media in the 20th century has defined the standard of the beauty, Both the relationship between fashion designers and fashion models. and the standardization of beauty and fashion models are reviewed from a denotative view. Fashion models imply connotative meanings of the figurative and the controlled property. Third, fashion photographs are historical documents presenting us with the evidence of the ideal body types and culture throughout time. The photographs could be adopted as proper means to express fashion. having realistic and practical expressional functions, and it can be said that the realistic and practical expressional function of photographs has served as a suitable means for express fashion, and fashion photographs are discussed. The fashion photograph has the reproducible and the symbolic property.
The modern fashion contains the religious factors or theories out of numerous cultural traits. Shamanism is a product of the very complicated combination of diversified cultural phenomena and whose traits are depicted as spiritual and artistic forms, reflecting on the materialism culture, social relations, customs, and religious faith. The Shamanism that lies in the life of humans gives much impact on their clothing life up to date, consciously or nonconsciously as well. The Shamanism clothing studied as yet has been focused on the costumes that a Shamanism priest and a shaman, the principal Shamanism performer wears and on the symbolic meaning or formativeness of the traditional shaman clothing that is only confined to certain local regions. The Shamanism in the modern costume influences not only on the traditional clothing unique to shaman but also on the other apparels in a widely extended sense. Nevertheless, the research on the modern costumes related to Shamanism is yet to be progressed. In this context, it is believed that the examination of Shamanism interrelated with a contemporary clothing expression is needed. This work would take a look specifically at how the Shamanism is given in the modern clothing fashion and review the inherent aesthetic characteristics. A fact was driven through this study that the shamanism shown in fashion is not only expressed in the modern style of shaman clothing but also unconsciously absorbed in the fashion on the whole. A finding was also revealed that the geometrical and abstract expression, the implication of animistic components, and the application of inherent shaman's costume on to design in regard to clothing are related to a view point of studying about shamanism. The meaning in each expressive method is focused on the superhumanistic desire of shamanism.
This study aims to analyze the characteristics of deconstruction-ism expressed in the fashion of Alexander McQueen. The method and contents of this study are as follows. The three large categories for analysis are indeterminacy, decentralization, and intertextuality. The indeterminacy of meaning is divided into unstructured and unorganized factors in fashion, while decentralization can be categorized into cross-gender, subculture, and post-humanism. Lastly, inter-textuality is classified into factors of mixing mode and mixed styles. Materials for analysis were chosen from a total of 616 designs from the website, www.firstview.com, which carries McQueen's collection from 2000 S/S through 2007 F/W. My analysis qualitatively evaluates the frequency of each category and the characteristics of design. The result of this study is as followed. First, the avant-garde facets of inter-textuality are most prominent. In particular, McQueen has introduced retro fashion and ethnic factors of the third world, not to copy them but to create hybrid designs by using pastiches and mixing fashion styles. Moreover, he has enjoyed using two fabrics of different texture in order to inflict a shock and contrast, thus enriching his fashion. Second, the indeterminacy of meaning is the second most frequently shown facet of McQueen's fashion design. McQueen has employed unstructured expression techniques, which dismantle harmony and balance, the basic rule of design, and has presented unorganized images free from basic forms of design. He has made a new attempt to acknowledge clothing as an expressive artwork by allowing clothes to take a complete form when a person actually wears them. Third, the aspects of decentralization were also shown in McQueen's design. His trans-gender clothing dissolves the traditional division of men and women and adopts a mixed gender expression. Furthermore, he has even tried to express a fourth gender by connecting the human with machine or animal or by connecting the material with the non-material.
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