• Title/Summary/Keyword: exotic taste

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The Environmental Changes and Fashion in East-West Cultural Exchange Before Orientalism (오리엔탈리즘 이전 동서문화 교류의 환경변화와 패션)

  • Lee, Keum Hee
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.23 no.1
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    • pp.127-144
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    • 2019
  • The purpose of this study is to clarify the phenomenon and characteristics of fashion in before Orientalism by examining the environmental changes and factors of East - West cultural exchange from the 16th century to the 18th century. To this end, this study examines the development of political and diplomatic relations, the growth of economy and trade, the investment of culture and arts, and the development of industry and technology. The research method used was the analysis of previous literature research and visual data. The result were as follows; the characteristics and phenomena in fashion in before Orientalism were symbolism as a privileged whole, applying to special clothing area, variety and splendor of fabrics, change of costume design, and a trend of exotic taste. Before Orientalism, the perspective of Orient in Europe can be seen as having the positive aspects cause of developing fashion and a negative aspect coming from an incorrect understanding and a bias.

현대 서양복식에 나타난 이국취향 (Exoticism)에 관한 연구 -1980년대 중반~1991년의 서양복식을 중심으로- (The Study of Exoticism in Western Costume)

  • 송명진;양숙희
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.18
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    • pp.291-306
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    • 1992
  • From the mid-1980s '91s, remarkable Ethnicism and Primitivism in the Europe fashion trend could be represented as an exotic taste longing for secenery and emotion of non-europe area in the West. These phenomenon could be found out in connection with Acculturation, which means when two different cultures or more were contacted they were identified or merged in process of diffusion and change of them. This point of view was the culture anthropologic one that make a comparison and analysis of sameness and difference between cultures. The purpose of this study was to illuminate exotic taste represented in costume in the cluture-anthroplogic aspect, to compare with beauty of costume that each culture of costume and the meaning of the times due to those differences. an aspect of the exotic taste and character in the western costume that was inspected by dividing into 'Primitivism', 'Oriental element' and 'the element of a national costume in the East European bloc ' were as follows; First, Primitivism had something in common with what was pursued in the trend of Modern Art, through the late 19th century to the early 20th century. In fashion fettered by technique, the creation expressed in a free was and showed simple beauty of costume. At the same time, pure emotion expression, creative power and witty strong expression give the cognition of transcendency breaking the routine and the cognition of complexity of an included conception. Those are garments showing not only the primitive thought and mysticism but a fancy, an abstraction, and a life. Colors and accessaries which described nature and matched simple costume composition to the expression of various material or patterns transmitted the image of the primitive strongly. Second, "Drental element" which had an effect on western custome historically in a long time had outstanding luxurios adornmental beauty of custome. Extending from the Arab stated India, China, Korea, Japan, each national costume with a gay national culture became one of motif. Various ornamental factors expressed on Trapez Line, Sime Line and Drape, or Raied style, which did not restrict the body. Those were not only functional Easy Look, but were also satisfying human's ornamental desire. Third, national factors in the East European bloc are theme that begins to be embossed in the late 80's. In view of a political change and cultural situation with a double character of Europe and Orient, it was estimated that national factors have great importance in fashion. Item concerned with new concern appeared at Autumn & Winter collection. It shows elegant and graceful beauty of costume by adding a fur or jewel to simple form. These national factors in the East European bloc are simple form, but shows the difference in more cubic formation than form expressed in Primitivism or Oriental factors Exotic taste appeared form 80's to 91's, is thought to create an forgotten romantic emotion and traditional fashion

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An Analytical Research on Exotic Tastes Reflected in Contemporary Men's Fashion - Focused on Collections from 2001 to 2010 - (현대 남성 패션에 나타난 이국적 취향(Exotic Taste)에 관한 분석 연구 - 2001년부터 2010년까지 발표된 컬렉션 중심으로 -)

  • Shin, Myung-Jin;Nam, Yoon-Sook
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.61 no.10
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    • pp.104-118
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    • 2011
  • The purpose of this study is to examine the recent various developments of men's fashion by analyzing how exotic tastes were presented in men's modern fashion from 2001 to 2010. For this purpose, a researcher reviewed relevant studies to identify the styles of exotic tastes that were reflected in men's modern fashion specifically in Chinese, Japanese, Indian, East Asian, American, North American and South American styles. Findings of this study is summarized as follows. Main examples of men's modern fashion were found in Chinese-style apparel such as the magwae, queue, coolie hat and the Mao jacket. The Kimono and the samurai robe, both of which best represent Japanese apparel and the Japanese traditional patterns also had an influence on men's modern fashion Indian style clothing such as dhoti, veshti and lungi which cover the lower body, vajani as loose trousers, kurta of full-over tunic form and turban also had an effect as well. The men's modern fashion is also impacted by Middle Asian styles that includes the thobe, sirwaal, futah, which is sort of a skirt that is long enough to cover the calf and whose front parts overlap each other, turbans and the hempen hood which is fixed with the agal. Exotic elements such as animal skins, body painting, tattoos and head dresses found in African styles can also be found in men's modern fashion. Parts of North American style influence come from the applications of Indians' costume and head dress. The surveyed men's modern fashion of the South America style was represented by the applications of natives' costume and Andean tunic, loincloth and shawl. In all of the exotic styles found in men's modern fashion, historicity, eclecticism, aestheticism and nature-orientation are implied. They are the source of inspirations that promote changes and diversity in men's modern fashion.

Orientalism in modern Clothing Aesthetics (현대복식미에서의 오리엔탈리즘)

  • Lee, Eun-Yeong
    • The Journal of Natural Sciences
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    • v.7
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    • pp.121-131
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    • 1995
  • Orientalism showed in early 20th century as change of Style. Modern characteristics is understanded through big stream of change before historical conception. Change of style in West began by artist having oriental and exotic taste. These are mimesis of outershape about Japanese, Moroco, north Africa etc. Theses are called chinoiserie & turquise taste. Stream of 20th century style is continued expressionism. Cubism, Sur realism, Pop Art etc. but in my thesis orientalism is caused change of 20th Century after exotism (after showed as Primitivism ). In modern costume, concerned works of Paul Poiret changed body concious. He's a image creator as Yve St. Laurent, Chanel, Balenciaga. At that time Russia Ballet, Fauvist, vivid colors are back ground of series of modern costume. Soft and sleek body, transparent stocking, minaret tunic, turban is begin of oriental image. Modern costume and modern art are begins as change of aesthetic taste before historical conception.

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Renoir's Fashion Colors and Exotic Taste That Must Be Re-Evaluated (재평가되어야할 르누아르의 이국취미와 패션컬러)

  • Lee, KeumHee
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.22 no.1
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    • pp.82-99
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    • 2018
  • The purpose of this study is to examine the characteristics that appeared in the fashion and colors of exotic tastes used by Renoir with a view to re-evaluating his-attitude towards exotic tastes. The methods used in this study were literature research and analysis of visual data from Renoir's works. The results of the study are as follows. Renoir's exotic tastes originated from the material perspective appearing in the fashions and accessories of Algeria, Orient, Spain, and Japan. Parisienne Odalisque Lise in Harem-style, Jeanne Samari in parisienne fashion holding a Japanese fan, and Gabriel in oriental fashion were portrayed as major muses. The Algerian style consisted of white, yellow or red veils, thobes, loose pants worn in Haik, and burnous. The Oriental-style was composed of harem pants, turbans, hair accessories, ornate zouave jackets, and oriental ornaments. The Spanish-style showed gay ornaments, fitted red or yellow matador costume, red bandannas, black hats, and red dresses, plus Spanish guitars. The Japanese-style consisted of kimonos, accessories such as fans, and backgrounds with interior articles such as vases, wall picture frames, and folding screens. The exotic fashion colors were red, yellow and white. Renoir expressed the works with his delicate skills and sense of craftsmanship, and he even added creative design portrayals sometimes. He selected fashions and accessories of exotic tastes as objects and expressed the objects with materials and colors reflecting regional characteristics as such, he can be regarded as an artist wed to who fashions of exotic tastes.

BIOLOGICAL ACTIVITIES OF L-THEANINE (SUNTHEANINETM), AN AMINO ACID OF GREEN TEA, IN HUMANS

  • Ogasawara Yutaka;Okubo Tsutomu;Ueda Tomoko;Ozeki Makoto;Jueja Lekh R;Yokogoshi Hidehiko;Matsumoto Seiichi
    • Proceedings of the Korean Society of Food Science and Nutrition Conference
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    • 2001.12a
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    • pp.38-47
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    • 2001
  • L-theanine is a unique amino acid, found almost solely in tea plants. It is the main component responsible for the exotic taste of green tea. In our studies of L-theanine, we have found a variety of biological activities including relaxation and the alleviation of PMS. In general, animals generate very weak electric pulses on the surface of the brain, called brain waves. Brain waves are classified into four types, namely $\alpha$, $\beta$, $\delta$ and $\theta$-waves, based on their frequency. Brain waves correlate with individual mental conditions. For example, generation of $\alpha$-waves is considered an index of relaxation. In human volunteers, $\alpha$-waves were generated on the occipital and parietal regions of the brain surface within 40 minutes after the oral administration of 50 or 200 mg Suntheanine$^{TM}$ without causing drowsiness. Premenstrual Syndrome (PMS) is a symptom unique to women which appears in the luteal phase from the ovulation period through the first day of menstruation. It possesses characteristics of having a peak just prior to menstruation and disappearing 1 - 2 days following the start of menstruation. Symptoms of PMS are generally categorized as mental, physical and social symptoms. When comparing the reported Symptoms of PMS by the methods of MDQ score, the Suntheanine$^{TM}$ group was found to have a lower incidence of PMS symptoms, including physical, mental and social symptoms. Overall, a significant alleviation of PMS symptoms by the administration of 200 mg Suntheanine$^{TM}$ was observed. With the successful industrial production of L-theanine, we are now able to supply Suntheanine$^{TM}$, offering a tremendous opportunity for designing functional foods targeting relaxation and the alleviation of PMS.

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The Exotic Tastes and Characteristics of Colors in Matisse's Works (마티스의 이국취미와 작품에 나타난 색채)

  • Lee, Keum Hee
    • Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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    • v.24 no.2
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    • pp.267-284
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    • 2015
  • The purpose of this study is to extract the color chip from the works of Matisse with the exotic tastes, to analyze the characters of adjacent colors, and to suggest the color coordination of artistic character. The research method is based on the literature study which analyzes visual materials. The results are as follows. Considering the colors of Japanese taste, He employs vivid and strong tone in red, yellow, and blue, light tone in pink, purple, and green and deep tone in green, purple, blue and black. His color scheme is very bold and splendid. In his Algerian taste, red is very popular, but an attention should be paid in his development of orange and blue tones. In general, the usage of various tones brings colors into less relief and make the contrast of tones more conspicuous. His Spanish taste, based on red and orange, attracts attentions with strong impressions, but sometimes, dark or adjacent pale tones creates strong, mild and murky atmosphere. The Moroccan taste, based on the development of blue tones which have strong attraction implies the lightness but represents silent and calm. The Rumanian taste, represented in primary colors of red, yellow and blue and achromatic colors is bright and clear. In addition, its light tone in various colors represents peace and romance. The coordination of the exotic colors with the unique adjacent colors created by Matisse is not based on the established color coordination theory, but extracts colors in the aspect of culture borrowing. Therefore, it can double the effects of the color scheme expressed in the existing designs and be used as the global and multi-cultural design sources.

A Study on Japanese Clothing as Japonism Expressed in the Impressionistic Painting Works of the 19th Century (19세기 인상주의 회화 작품 속에 표현된 쟈포니즘으로서의 일본 복식에 관한 연구)

  • 김혜정
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.53 no.6
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    • pp.11-23
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    • 2003
  • Japonese woodblock printing has been accepted with a great curiosity at first, and it has been called as 'Japonisme' or 'Japonaiserie' in which the school of Impressionism accepted the Japanese type of art and developed it in Europe. The term of Japonisme is the concept that does not refer to one style but to the taste for Japanese painting, craft, fashion and the like in Europe proved as the historical phenomenon through Japanese works. That is, it means every Japanese disposition including all artistic techniques and contents relating to Japanese tastes in Europe. Fashion of dress as Japanese expressed in European painting works not only symbolizes the 'modernity' expressive of the aspiration and nostalgia for Japan but presents the Japan of exotic taste as the inquisitive object of sexual interest. And the expressive method of the peculiar the beauty of the body was described in Japanese painting works because of the fashion characteristics that the frontal side of Japanese clothing was presented in a more decorative and formative way than its reverse side due to decorative design and belts. It could be found that this was introduced actively into the painting works of the impressionist school. This study attempts to discuss the expressive style including the pictorial style, technique and theme shown in the accommodating process of Japanese painting in the Impressionistic school and investigate the phenomenon of Japonisme that was conducted in the western Europe. Accordingly, this study attempts to find out that clothing takes an important place as the aesthetic category of one historical point in time by investigating the Japanese clothing of the times shown in impressionist painting works and that clothing forms the stylistic characteristics and formative characteristics of painting. It could be found that dress existed not only as the instrument capable of illustrating the aesthetic attitude or will of the human being as visual identity but as plastic art and became the prime mover for reinterpreting and changing the plastic style of art frontier.

Textile Design with CAD for Apparel Employing Motives from Korean Traditional Paintings (한국화 모티브를 활용한 어패럴용 텍스타일 CAD 디자인)

  • Kim, Chil-Soon;Cho, Yong-Joo
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.10 no.3
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    • pp.101-110
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    • 2008
  • We believe distinguishable product development to be competitive against foreign products, and realize the need to expand domestic business worldwide. In order to be competitive, we should produce fashion items that meets global taste, and at the same time contain exclusive Korean culture and emotional beauty. This article examines and creates unique textile design with the touch of Korean art. Desigus have been proceeded under the following three themes: 'Strong Ego,' 'Gorgeous Days' and 'Song Eternal Seeking Love' using Primavision Computer-aided Design ("CAD"). We have put our interestes in Korean traditional paintings called Hangukhwa. Suitable design motives had been selected and modified from the four gracious plants (bamboos, peonies etc.), and paintings of birds and flowers. Primavision, a CAD software, had been used to manipulate those desigus, and to add instant changes in color, scale, and layout. We had modified Korean traditional motives to make modem image, and had arranged layouts which can be suitable for half-drop repeat and square repeat. The use of color is essential in pattern design. Thus, we explored coloring ways for each design to meet the trends, and the final mapping had been conducted in western style of dresses. We have tried to mix Korean image of textile designs with Western clothing style, expressing hybrid in the mapping process. With global movements, we need to develop products with Korean traditional exotic taste to attract foreign consumers. Therefore, we selected symbolic motives from Korean paintings to express deep spiritual significance. We developed textile design and processed mapping on selected western designer's dress, employing current trend colors and making crossover coordination. We realized Korean painting would be an excellent source for exclusive fabric design, and tried to create a modernized design which maintains Korean ethnical identities.

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Colonial Tourism and Modernism in Korean Modern Architecture - Focused on Railroad Station during Japanese Ruling Era - (한국근대건축에서 식민지관광주의와 모더니즘에 관한 연구 - 일제강점기 철도역사 건축을 중심으로 -)

  • Ahn, Chang-Mo
    • Journal of architectural history
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    • v.11 no.2 s.30
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    • pp.7-22
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    • 2002
  • Architectural style is said to be product reflecting political, social and cultural condition. Especially, in colony, architectural style is strongly related to political condition or policy. After colonization in 1910, public buildings with western historical architectural style in Japanese version were widely built by Japanese colonial government in Korea. And in the late 1920s, modernism style in architecture became dominant in Korea as like other countries. In this situation, curious buildings in strange architectural styles came out. One example is railroad station buildings with traditional Korean architectural style and timber house station having a steep roof which is widely used in North Europe such as Alps area with good sights and mountains. Generally, the colonizer says that colonization is the only way to save the colony at crisis defined by colonizer and they insist that they can help the colony modernize. To justify colonization, the colonizer attributes the colonization to the characteristics of the nation and stagnation of the traditional culture etc.. Accordingly, the colonizer tries to depreciate colony's traditional value and culture. In case of colony which has similar cultural background historically (in this case, economical exploitation is less important than other Asian colony by European power), this depreciation of traditional value and culture in Korea was done more strongly than others. At this time, we should understand special relation between Korea and Japan historically. Even though, colony's locality is adopted by the colonizer in public fields, which is based on political purpose or exotic taste etc.. In early days of Japanese ruling period, Japan never use the Korean traditional facts in public. Therefore there is no use of Korean traditional architectural style in public field. In late 1920s, some railroad station buildings were constructed in new styles without precedence in modern Korea. One is railroad station buildings in Korean traditional architectural style, the other is railroad station buildings in timber house stations having a steep roof which is different form western historical architectural style. It was mystery that Japan had constructed railroad stations in Korean traditional style which Japan had tried to destroy together with Western style railroad station buildings. This paper is made to solve the mystery why the colonizer(Japan) constructed entirely different types of railroad stations at the same time in the late 1920s and 1930s. The key point to solve this mystery is tourism. In this paper, to solve this mystery, I try to use terminology' 'Colonial Tourism' in architecture why colonial power had constructed railroad stations with colony's traditional architectural style and Western style having a steep roof which can be seen north European region.

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