• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.4
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• pp.98-112
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• 2010

This study is on the 18th-century man's clothing excavated from Mr. Kim(1683-1766)'s tomb in Cheongju, Chungbuk in 2003. There are more than 100 pieces of excavated costumes from the tomb of Won-taek Kim. The excavated costumes have the value of genuine materials. Among them, 36 garments in good condition were investigated. As a result, there are several kinds of the excavated coats with different sizes, depending on the type of coats-Simui(深衣), Danryeong(團領), Sagyusam(四揆衫), Daechang, jungchimak(中赤莫), and Sochangui. These different-size coats reveal the degree of ritual; the length of the ritual costume is longer than that of the daily one. We can see two kinds (large and small) of coats, jackets, and pants. The large-size clothing is for the dead, the small size one as daily clothing was used for filling the empty space of the coffin. Among the excavated clothing from Mr. Kim's tomb, clothing for the dead(shroud) is bigger than man's daily costume. Concerning the form, color, and materials of the costumes, clothing for the dead is similar to daily clothing, while there is the difference in their size. The oversized costumes of coats, jackets, and pants are also different in size, matching the structure of clothing.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.5
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• pp.71-86
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• 2008

The Purpose of this article is to study the excavated women's costume of the Joseon Dynasty, and to help identify the period of those costumes with the time of the burial unknown. The excavated women's costume is concentrated in 16th to 17th century, and the reason is due to the method of the burial. The characteristics of costumes from each period is as follows. The special features about 15th century costumes are the women's Dan-ryeong(round-collared jacket), Dae-gum style shirt(shirt with the squared collar facing each other), and skirt with horizontal dart. The 16th century costumes are the women's Dan-ryeong, wide Jegori with various length, skirt with horizontal dart, skirt with its hem folded, and pants with shoulder strap. In the 17th century, the formal dress changes to Won-sam from Dan-ryeong. The collar changes from the squared shape to the cut Dang-ko collar, and the skirt with its hem folded is not seen after the early 17th century. The long jacket changes to Dang-ui and gets settled, and the clothes becomes smaller and tighter. In the 18th century, the women's formal dress gets settled to Won-sam and Dang-ui, and the pants with shoulder strap is no longer seen. Jegori becomes shorter and smaller compared to those from the 17th century, and again gets wider and bigger in the late 18th century, and it leads to the change of making a big sized shroud.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.10
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• pp.60-73
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• 2007

This Study is on the excavated clothing from lady Lee' tomb in spring 2003, on Chungjoo Province. These are significant as the 18th century's real clothing, we examine the real Jegories as possible and the results shows there are two group in sizes. we regard the large Jegori is for the dead as a shroud, the small one is for daily. it shows that Jegori for the dead is about 1.3 larger than a daily one, we can see Jegori for the dead was going to be large from the 18th century, and it's needlework was not fine than daily one, but the Color and the material on should look like as daily in this time, and the motif is cloud pattern, we can see two changes in daily Jegori that one thing is to be short and narrow, the other is to be curve at the corner of collar(Gitmuri), the corner of edge(supco), the below line of sleeve(baerae) in the daily Jegori.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.2
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• pp.150-162
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• 2014

This study examined the excavated clothes of Lady Sim Cheongsong(1753~1810) in Jecheon which were excavated in 2012. Lady Sim died at the age of 57 and the excavated relics belonged to the 18th and 19th centuries. The excavated relics consisted of 9 pieces of three-kind-clothes. They showed various qualities such as Plain-Silk, Plaited-Silk, Patterned Twill, Plain Twill, Plain Satin, and Satin Damask. Through comparing them with the other excavated clothes of the 18th and 19th centuries, we can comprehend the periodical changes of the excavated Jegori and Yeomo (the hat for a dead woman). The excavated Jegori shows the difference of length and form from the other Jegori of the 18th century. The total length of the excavated Jegori ranged from 24 cm to 25 cm, which is 10 cm shorter than that of the other Jegori of the 18th century. The excavated hat for a dead woman shows the changes of the form and needlework. The form of a rectangular cover was changed into that of a round shape. In regards to the sewing composition, the way of inserting the cover into Mosin(the body of the hat for a dead woman) was replaced by that of connecting the cover into Mosin. The excavated clothes show three kinds of textile fabrics: plain silk fabrics and plaited silk, plain twill and four-leaf-patterned twill, eight-leaf-plain satin of life-lettered textile and five-leaf satin damask, and plain satin. Especially, the combination of eight-leaf satin and four-leaf twill with mixed textile is considered as a fabric of high quality. The excavated clothes of Lady Sim Cheongsong showed a periodical change which was different from the clothes of the 18th century in terms of the formal composition of Jegori and Yeomo. Regarding Women's Jegori a short length and slim and long sleeves are changed into short and tight Jegori, which signaled the specific change of Jegori aesthetics. The significance of the excavated clothes of Lady Sim Cheongsong lies in its role as the bases for understanding the couture culture of the 19th century.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.5
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• pp.1-17
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• 2014

This study explores women's Wonsam in the 18th century. Wonsam was women's wedding dress, one of the representative ceremonial garments of Korea. Wonsam began to appear in the excavated clothes around the 18th century, and we can find drawings and records of the period in Yongjae Collections by Kim-kunhaeng. The form of Wonsam after the 17th and 18th centuries showed the changes in which Seop and Mu disappeared in Baeja form of Danryoung(團領) and the right and left symmetry and side slits were highlighted. The change also included wide and long sleeves and Sakdong(색동) colorful strips on the sleeves), Hansam ornaments, and the use of the belt, which means the change of Baeja composition into our traditional costume of the age. Through the Colletions, we notice that women wore Wonsam in different colors and with varying hair accessories according to the nature of ceremony, the social status, and marital status. Concerning Wonsam, the color of clothing for the dead woman was green(喪禮), while that for marriage ceremony was red(婚禮). Wonsam with the light color was for ceremonial clothing(祭禮). The women who served in the palace wore green Wonsam and Geodumi, while a bride at the marriage ceremony wore red Wonsam or a red long-sleeved robe with Jokduri. At the ceremony of Hyeongunorye, women wore Wonsam with a wig. the dead woman wore Yemou.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.21 no.4
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• pp.27-42
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• 2019

This paper tried a detailed approach to identify the correlation among basic elements that influenced the change of forms of the Po. To this end, the subjects were limited to the clothing from the 15th to the 18th century, which was found in the tombs of the period of Pyeonbokpo. The total number of excavated artifacts measured directly is 6 and other correctly described excavated artifacts for a total of 54 items. Per period and element, the types of collars and Seop were presented by classifying collars in 4 types, and Seop in 3 types. On the basis of the classification, the relics selected in this paper were analyzed considering the appearance, period, and rate per type of each element. The type and the change of forms of each element per period, with the focus on the appearance, were identified and the factors influencing the change of forms per element and the correlation between such factors were investigated. The representative type in the first period included dual collars, dual Seop and the representative type in the second period was characterized by a shawl collar and a dual Seop joining the pieces. The representative type in the third period was characterized by round collars and a short Seop. The elements determining the forms of Po, including collars and Seop, had a correlation to the lapse of time and had been systematically influencing each other. Furthermore, the overall change of form was caused due to the social functions as well as the supplementary function of keeping balance among the elements and accordingly, the change of forms was think characterized per period.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.6
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• pp.218-230
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• 2012

The 25 pieces of women's jogori worn by ChangRyung Jo's family(1721~1742) that are preserved in Yeoju Museum, Gyeounggi Province, Korea were examined in this study. The aim of this study is to analyze women's jogori that were excavated from the grave of Changryung Jo's family, and to characterize women's costumes around the middle $18^{th}$ Century. The size of the jogori was divided into two groups. The garment length of the first group ranged from 31cm to 34cm and the bigger size ranged from 36.5cm to 40cm. The number of jogori in the group with the smaller size was twenty-five pieces and five pieces for the group with the bigger size. Changryung Jo's jogori was composed of two pieces of padded jogori, four pieces of quilted jogori and nineteen pieces of double layer jogori. Even though the direction of the margin located on back seemed point toward the right hand side, the gorum, the string for the tie, and the Sup, the outer gore of the jogori located on the other side of the margin had no pattern of direction. The line of jogori from the armhole gets narrower toward the edge of sleeves which could be recognized as a typical pattern of the middle $18^{th}$ Century jugori. The bigger group of jogori seemed to be worn by people other than ChangRyung Jo's relatives and used to be a gifts to aid in funerals. Major characteristics of jogori is could be categorized into the Dangko Mokpan collar jogori and Samhaejang jogori. The results of this study helps set the relative dating for the women's jogori of middle $18^{th}$ Century where not much excavations have been made.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.37 no.5
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• pp.667-675
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• 2013

After analyzing excavated $17-18^{th}$ century silk fibers through a scanning electron microscopy, we discovered seven different kinds of fracture morphology. Using Morton & Hearle fiber fracture morphology, we classified the findings into four different categories. Type I is tensile failure resulting from brittle fracture, granular fracture, and ductile fracture. Type II is fatigue failure caused by tensile fatigue, flex fatigue, and axial split (fibrillation). Type III is bacterial deterioration discovered only in excavated artifacts. Type IV is a combination of the three above. Humid underground conditions and the infiltration of bacteria caused the fibers to swell and weaken its interfibrillar cohesion. Fractures occur when drying and processing an excavated artifact that is already in a fragile condition. Therefore, one must minimize damage through a prompt cleaning process and make sure that the least possible force is exerted on the fabric during any treatment for repair and exhibition.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.22 no.4
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• pp.1-16
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• 2020

This study focused on front-blouse-type skirts from the 15th and 16th centuries and aimed to investigate their formative characteristics and wearing patterns. Previous studies, literature, records, paintings, and excavated clothing items were used as research materials. The researcher categorized front-blouse-type skirts into three types based on the construction method. The first has the front-center portion of the skirt folded up, the second has the center portion cut short, and the third has horizontal dart pleats on either side. An examination of 48 items from 18 excavation sites of front-blouse-type skirts showed that only the front-center portion folded up type appeared in the 15th century, and it was only in the 16th century that the other forms of skirts were worn. Finally, based on the analysis, the pattern of wearing front-blouse-type skirts and their changing factors was deduced. Front-blouse-type skirts were identified as ceremonial skirts that were popular in the 15th and 16th centuries among the types of long skirts available. The popularity and usage of this type of skirt began to spread gradually in the 15th century. In the 16th century, various types of front-blouse-type skirts were brought into vogue by the royal family and the external register. It can be inferred that the popularity of front-blouse-type skirts gradually declined in the 17th century as other types of long skirts, folding skirts, and Sran type skirts emerged.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.7
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• pp.164-175
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• 2013

This study examined the Yemou(a hat for a dead woman) from the ladies' clothes excavated from the Lady Lee's tomb in order to trace the significance of the clothing composition and its social origin in the Chosun dynasty. The compositional characteristic of Yemou covers the body of the hat which is not connected with the cover, Wonsal which has a round shape that covers the face of the dead body, and two Gae(a ribbon on the backside of a hat). Seongho Lee-ik(one of representative Confucian scholars in the Chosun dynasty) stated in his book entitled "Seongho Notes", that the structural elements of Yemou originated in Yum(wrapping cloth for the head of a dead body). According to Seongho, Yemou's body part came from the scarf used to cover the head. Wonsal(the cloth of round shape for covering the face) and Gae were derived from Yum made of two ends of long cloth for covering and binding the head of a dead body. Yongjae Kim-kunhang(one of Confucian scholars in the late-Chosun dynasty) demonstrated in his "Yongjae Collection" the social background of the emergence of Yemou. Yemou was the hat produced from the process of nationalizing the Chinese courtesy of clothing. In other words, Bokgun(a man's hat) in the Chosun dynasty replaced the Chinese Yum. Unlike the Chinese custom, man and woman in the Chosun dynasty wore different clothes respectively. According to the clothing custom of the Chosun dynasty a woman wore a female hat, Yemou instead of men's Bokgun.