• 복식
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• 제44권
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• pp.117-129
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• 1999

Hudan Bangryung-Banbee was the name for a traditional dress which had a square neckline collar. Among Bangryung-Banbee, there was a particular style which, plus with the square neckline collar, had the half-length sleeve, bodice whose back length was shorter than the front. This kind of style shown a big difference from the typical pattern of traditional Korean costumes which had the V neck and had to fold the neckband of the clothes in Y-shape. This study focused on the analysis of the change of Hudan(後短) Bangryung-Banbee style. Bangryung-Banbee of the half sleeve/shortened back style had been usually excavated around the period of the Japanese invasion of Chosun dynasty(1592-1598). And up to now this kind of the costumes was never found before the fifteenth century or after the eighteenth century in Korea. Therefore it is thought that Bangryung-Banbee was worn widely in the middle of the Chosun dynasty. However, the shape of the collar and the length of sleeve and of dress were variously used, so it must be recognized that there existed much more diverse styles of Bangryung-Banbee than it was known today. But as the times passed away, the lined Bangryung-Banbee disappeared, and the collar of Bangryung-Banbee changed from square neckline to rounded Wonsam(圓衫) or Baeja(背子)-shape. And in the case of Bangryung-Banbee's front length, the original style disappeared, while a new style of longer back appeared.

• 복식
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• 제59권6호
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• pp.29-40
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• 2009

On April 28th of 2006, a set of Buddha's reliquary was excavated from the pagoda in n Nacsan Temple. According to the record, the relics were put in the pagoda in the 18th year of King SookJong in the Chosun Dynasty (1692). The present paper examines ten pieces of wrapping clothes covering reliquary found in the pagoda. They are especially precious data in the history of textiles because they were blocked off from outside and was preserved in good condition with vivid colors still remaining after more than 300 years. Of the ten pieces of wrapping cloth, five were double-layered and the other five were single-layered. They include 15 pieces of silk fabric but, excluding repeated use of the same silk fabric, the total of 11 pieces of silk fabric were examined. All 11 kinds of silk fabric were patterned, 9 of which were Satin and the other 2 were Twill. Of the 9 Satin pieces, 8 pieces were 5-end satin which had the ground of 5-end warp satin with the figure of 5-end weft satin. The remaining 1 Satin piece were more splendid with prominent figures by using warp and weft of different colors. The 2 Twill pieces used twill weave-the ground was 3-end warp twill and the figures were 5-end weft twill. Both of the Twill pieces were weaved with character patterns, partly using wrapped gold thread as supplementary weft. The patterns of 11 pieces of silk fabric include flower, dragon/phoenix, cloud, and geometric patterns. Five were flower patterns, three were dragon/phoenix patterns, two were geometric pattern, and one was cloud pattern. In addition, various treasure patterns, character patterns were utilized as supplementary patterns. The flower and phoenix patterns reflect characteristics of the textiles of the 17th century whereas check pattern and cloud pattern were very unique.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제16권4호
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• pp.748-761
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• 2008

This study was initiated out of necessity to inquire into the trend of costume regulation between the mid-15th century and mid-17th century, and what influence the change of dress and its ornaments had on the people at the time. As for the resources this study was based on, the True Record of Joseon Dynasty, which was the historical record of official compilation, was used as basic material, and the excavated relics at the time were referred to. The forbidden dress and ornaments mentioned in the records from the time of King Seonjong to the time of King Hyeonjong were classified into textiles, clothes, ornaments and dresses, according to the objects. It was designed to identify the laws and ordinances or regulations enacted by the state and the contents of discussions, which were caused by the extensive consumption of silk gauze and fabrics and the luxury in dress and ornaments, and the phenomenon induced by the consumption desire of the social class with economic power, and to help understand the cause. So to speak, the law and ordinance or regulations were established to solve the social problems caused by the failure in controlling dress and ornaments wearing based on social position, during the process in which the king and court officials were making effort to intensify their political power in each regime.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제7권1호
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• pp.1-13
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• 2005

This study is for the construction of Cheo-Yongdance Costumeby historical research based on Ak-Hak-Gue-Peom(樂學軌範). Through the production of Cheo-Yongdance Costume by historical research, it is examined and this study is expected that be a help of the right succession of a traditional costume. Cheo-Yongdance Costumeis draught to real size by comparing the size and picture suggested in Ak-Hak-Gue-Peom. In the specialty of Cheoyong(處容) dance Costume in the drawing, the length of clothes was 152cm that is longer than the length of the excavated Danlyeong(團領) of Chosun Dynasty period. Width was 81.9cm that is very big and the width of Danlyeong is 11.7cm. The sleeve length of Hansam(汗衫) is 20O.60cm and it is one that attached Hansam to Jeogori(저고리). The material used for Cheoyong dance Costume is Dan(緞), Cho, Joo(紬), Red gold patterned brocade(紅金線). At the same part, and as the goal was differently used at the same clothing. As the methods of dyeing, the process of dyeing naturally is suggested. A gardenia seeds, indigo plant, and ink stick are used for the color of blue, red, yellow and black. The producing process is made in concrete by suggesting the process of producing clothing. Danlyeong is required the technique of smoothing out wrinklesin case of attaching. Goon(裙) was made by making plaits below and attaching string for making form in the literature. Ui(衣), Chon-ui(天衣) and Goon(裙)'s Bang-sul(方膝) are drawn a Man-hwa Mun(蔓花紋) on Ak-Hak-Gue-Peom by using the golden dyeing material. As the result of producing the clothe by using the recorded size in Ak-Hak-Gue-Peom, it could be examine a pertinent dance clothing for expressing the dance performance with big motions.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제18권4호
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• pp.424-437
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• 2016

The study will analyze the costumes of the Scythians tribes who lived in the region of Altai in the 3-5 century BC. The purpose of this study is to prepare new material to re-examine the theory, which claims that the origin of the circular motives of korean costumes are to be found in the typology of the Scythian costumes. In this study, we analyzed the most recent reports of archaeological excavation about the unearthed clothes in the Pazyryk region and compared its information with european literature. The conclusion of this study is as follows: The jackets of the Pazyryk region are classified in two types, (1) opened jacket with narrow sleeve and (2) enclosed jacket with narrow sleeve. Trousers were separated by (1) narrow and (2) extreme wide trousers. The enclosed jacket of tunic form and extreme wide trousers are newly excavated. It proves, there was a vivid exchange between the Scythians and their neighboring cultures. It can be noted, that there existed a diverse Scythian culture of costumes, besides the commonly known clothing culture of the "Pazyryk-rider". Based upon the results of the previous research, it can be said that the opened jacket with narrow sleeve and narrow trousers are costume typologies which are common for all Scythian tribes of the whole Eurasian region. The hem of the edge of jacket is proven to be a connective element, which is common to all Scythian tribes.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제9권1호
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• pp.141-148
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• 2007

As Backje(B.C. 18-A.D. 600) is the whole area of Chungcheong, Jeonra, Kangwon and Gyeongsang provinces, the son of the founder of Goguryeo, King Onjoe, making the castle Wu'irae capital of the nation, founded Backje. The capital was transferred to Hansung by B.C. 5 and then to Gongju by A.D. 475. Backje governed the east of China and the northeastern coast. Due to the effect of Chinese culture there are remarkably Chinese cultural elements in dress and its ornament of Baekje. Therefore on the side of cultural part, the noble culture was formed more polished than that of Goguryeo, which affected the culture of dress and ornament. And also there were class differentiation noticeably. Baekje created splendid culture and affected the culture development of Shinra and Japan. The motive of culture creation could be the top of three countries in the foreign trade because there were geographically the widest vast plain and coastline which stretches out from north to south. Although there haven't been many materials about the cultural heritage and records more than other countries, through the modern visual point its design is fresh and more elegant those of other countries. But the fact is that there are few materials related to Baekje. What is worse, there rarely remains all original form and most of them are broken and lost. According1y, we cannot understand not only an original form of Baekje culture and but also the meaning included in it. It goes without saying that there are few materials about the clothes and fabrics. As understanding the culture of Baekje itself is insufficient, a culture enterprise utilizing it - to improve both the added value and economical achievement while combining the latest culture resources with other fields - hasn't been successful. In this study, the purpose is to improve economic power through commercialization and industrialization of the sources of the culture of Baekje. By reanalyzing a form and an image of Baekje relics, it is designed with new motif and modem preference on the condition of our peculiar cultural heritage. And while using this motif with Jacquard pattern, we made it possible to be applied to real life such as interior trinkets, etc.

• The Korean Journal of Ecology
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• 제17권3호
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• pp.355-366
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• 1994

본 연구에서는 하천 생태계가 갖고 있는 오염에 대한 자정작용의 본질과 오염부하량과의 관계를 구명하기 위한 기초자료를 얻기 위하여 곡릉천에서의 계절에 따른 수질의 변화와 자정작용의 양상을 조사하였다. 하천생태계에 영향을 미칠 것으로 생각되는 곡릉천 유역의 육상생태계의 식생조사 결과 하천의 주변 삼림에는 주로 참나무종류(Quercus sp.)가 우점하고 있었으며, 산등성이 부근에는 소나무(Pinus densiflora)가 우점하고 있었다. 이화학적 수질조사에서 수온 및 pH는 지소별 차이가 거의 없었으나, DO는 가장 상류인 일자꿀부근(지점1)이 낮았고, 하류로 내려올수록 높아져 청운산장 부근(지점5)이 가장 높았다. 평균 BOD는 지점 1이 7.23mg/l로 가장 높았고, 지점 5가 가장 낮았다. 지점 1에서의 전기전도도는 179.9${\mu}$s/cm, 총 인의 양은0.040mg/l로 높고, 지점5가 낮았다. 수서곤충의 출현에 의한 생물학적 수질조사에서는 지점1에서는 오염수역의 지표종인 복족류와 깔다구류가 우점종으로 나타났으며, 지점 4,5에서는 청정수역의 지표종인 하루살이류(Eprorus latifolium), 날도래류(Hydropsyche sp.) 및 플라나리아 등이 우점종으로 나타났다. 생물 오탁지수에 의한 수질 판정에 의하면 지점 1,2는 ${\beta}$-중부수성, 지점 3,4,5는 빈부수성 수역으로 나타났다. BOD를 근거로 한 곡릉천의 자정계수는 지점1과 지점2사이의 구간이 1.013으로 가장 높았고, 전체적으로는 추계인 9월이 0.995로 동계인 1월(0.272)에 비해 높았다. 이로부터 상류인 지점1에서 인간의 영향으로 오염되었던 물이 아래로 내려갈수록 자정되어 청정해짐을 알 수 있으며, 이러한 자정작용은 동계와 하계에 비해 춘계와 추계레 더 크게 일어남을 알 수 있다.mall sleeve long coat, belt , boots as an official dress. 2) the soldiers wore helmet, scarf, yangdang-kap , hung-kap, bak-kap, we-yo-kap, kun-kap and jok-kap and carries arms. 3) The young boys bind his hair up one, two and three angle shape an tied up a hair ribbons. 나) Women's wear : 1. Hair Style and hair dress : high rank ladies made their hair top knot (one, two, or more knots) and tied with hair ribbons , and decorated with precious stone, pan shape head dress , wheel shape head dress. 2. Clothes ; 1) high rank ladie's wore kun -kyun attached jacket , and jacket sleeves decorated pleats and pleats decorated on skirt, apron, back apron, knot belt, scarf.d with gold and silver developed into Kumdongkwan(금동관). The Kwanmo which is similar to Kumkwan (금관) of Baekje and Shilla has been shown in Kaimachong (가마총) 무 dJumdongkwan(금동관) was excavated in the ancient tombs of Kokuryo.것을 볼 수있다. 단순하면서 우주공간을 선회하는 듯한 입체적인 라인,