• Ocean Systems Engineering
• /
• v.6 no.1
• /
• pp.61-97
• /
• 2016

This is the second of two papers on the 3D numerical modeling of nearshore hydro- and morphodynamics. In Part I, the focus was on surf and swash zone hydrodynamics in the cross-shore and longshore directions. Here, we consider nearshore processes with an emphasis on the effects of oceanic forcing and beach characteristics on sediment transport in the cross- and longshore directions, as well as on foreshore bathymetry changes. The Delft3D and XBeach models were used with four turbulence closures (viz., ${\kappa}-{\varepsilon}$, ${\kappa}-L$, ATM and H-LES) to solve the 3D Navier-Stokes equations for incompressible flow as well as the beach morphology. The sediment transport module simulates both bed load and suspended load transport of non-cohesive sediments. Twenty sets of numerical experiments combining nine control parameters under a range of bed characteristics and incident wave and tidal conditions were simulated. For each case, the general morphological response in shore-normal and shore-parallel directions was presented. Numerical results showed that the ${\kappa}-{\varepsilon}$ and H-LES closure models yield similar results that are in better agreement with existing morphodynamic observations than the results of the other turbulence models. The simulations showed that wave forcing drives a sediment circulation pattern that results in bar and berm formation. However, together with wave forcing, tides modulate the predicted nearshore sediment dynamics. The combination of tides and wave action has a notable effect on longshore suspended sediment transport fluxes, relative to wave action alone. The model's ability to predict sediment transport under propagation of obliquely incident wave conditions underscores its potential for understanding the evolution of beach morphology at field scale. For example, the results of the model confirmed that the wave characteristics have a considerable effect on the cumulative erosion/deposition, cross-shore distribution of longshore sediment transport and transport rate across and along the beach face. In addition, for the same type of oceanic forcing, the beach morphology exhibits different erosive characteristics depending on grain size (e.g., foreshore profile evolution is erosive or accretive on fine or coarse sand beaches, respectively). Decreasing wave height increases the proportion of onshore to offshore fluxes, almost reaching a neutral net balance. The sediment movement increases with wave height, which is the dominant factor controlling the beach face shape.

• Journal of the Korean Geographical Society
• /
• v.48 no.3
• /
• pp.321-335
• /
• 2013

High resolution data for the coastal sand beach during short-term in Jinbok-ri, Uljin-gun, Gyeongsangbuk-do are obtained by terrestrial LiDAR. The micro-geomorphological changes of 8 times before and after the strong low-pressure events during June to September, 2009 and changes under the various environments of wave-energy are investigated in the study. The obvious geomorphological changes between the northern and southern sand beach in Jinbok-ri are revealed by terrestrial LiDAR as well as by grain size analysis. The strong waves by the typhoons decrease the area and volume of the beach, and especially the area is largely influenced. The erosive and depositional processes dominate the northern and southern sand beach, respectively, after high wave in September. These results suggest that lots of sand grains in the beach are largely re-transported within the beach rather than offshore.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.31 no.5
• /
• pp.265-277
• /
• 2019

Using the measured data of waves and shore-line, we reviewed the grand circulation process and seasonal variation of beach cusp at the Mang-Bang beach from the perspective of trapped mode Edge waves known as the driving mechanism of beach cusp. In order to track the temporal and spatial variation trends of beach cusp, we quantify the beach cusp in terms of its wave length and amplitude detected by threshold crossing method. In doing so, we also utilize the spectral analysis method and its associated spectral mean sand wave number. From repeated period of convergence and ensuing splitting of sand waves detected from the yearly time series of spectral mean sand wave number of beach cusp, it is shown that the grand circulation process of beach cusp at Mang-Bang beach are occurring twice from 2017. 4. 26 to 2018. 4. 20. For the case of beach area, it increased by $14,142m^2$ during this period, and the shore-line advanced by 18 m at the northen and southern parts of the Mang-Bang beach whereas the shore-line advanced by 2.4 m at the central parts of Mang-Bang beach. It is also worthy of note that the beach area rapidly increased by $30,345m^2$ from 2017.11.26. to 2017.12.22. which can be attributed to the nature of coming waves. During this period, mild swells of long period were prevailing, and their angle of attack were next to zero. These characteristics of waves imply that the main transport mode of sediment would be the cross-shore. Considering the facts that self-healing capacity of natural beaches is realized via the cross-shore sediment once temporarily eroded. it can be easily deduced that the sediment carried by the boundary layer streaming toward the shore under mild swells which normally incident toward the Mang-Bang beach makes the beach area rapidly increase from 2017.11.26. to 2017.12.22.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.31 no.5
• /
• pp.305-313
• /
• 2019

Number of coastal protection structures have been increased rapidly due to rising sea levels and deteriorated sea conditions. Coastal structures should be designed to meet coastal engineering requirements and ecosystem conditions, while they are not lost or removed. In this study, trapezoidal gabion block was developed for the purpose, and two-dimensional laboratory experiments were conducted to validate applicability of the block. The experiments were carried out with eight types of erosive and accretive wave conditions. As a result, it was confirmed that the gabion blocks have a feature of preventing erosion of beach. The newly designed gabion blocks could be an alternative as a countermeasure method for beach erosion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fisheries and Ocean Technology
• /
• v.15 no.1
• /
• pp.35-42
• /
• 1979

This paper concerns the receding of the eastern coastline of Korean peninsula at a macroscopic point of view, the result is as following. 1. Eastern coast is gradually developed from maturity stage to full maturity stage. 2. The coastline recession due to sea level rise is amounted to the receding distance, x=0.045 m per yr. 3. The author proposes another classification from the new view point, which is classified by comparing quantities between river supplying sediment loads, and the littoral drifting due to wave actions. According this, eastern coast is receding(Type Q-A), and we could find it's geomorphological characteristics. 4. The general piofile of eastern coast sand beach is erosional storm profile(Type I) which accompany offshore bar. 5. From the wave measuring data of eastern coast(Hoopo port), I can derive the linear regression line of the exceedance probability of wave height from the log-normal distribution. $z=O. 113+4.335 log_lo H, r=0.983.$ Above equation made it possible to estimate $\omega[=P(H>H_c)]for the effective wave height H_c=2. Om4, 4. Om and their corresponding values are considerable (7.8%, 0.3%) 6. Eastern coastline certainly have the tendency of erosive and receding, owing to the sea level rise, poor sediment source and effective wave actions. It's very desirable to survey coastline evolution for a long time systematically, in order to make more elaborate diagnosis.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.23 no.6
• /
• pp.482-488
• /
• 2011

Seadike is a coastal structure constructed in the rear region of the foreshore to maximize its usability by preventing direct effect of wave. The expected construction field is determined under the design wave and tidal condition where minor wave overtopping is anticipated. Thus, the location of seadike is generally fixed at the highest site of the surrounding area with seadike crest height controlling the permissible range of wave overtopping volume. But a lot of times, frontal sand beach of the seadike continuously deforms due to incident waves, resulting failure in maintaining its initial slope. The erosion and deposition of the seadike front cause changes in the crest height and volume of wave overtopping and decrease in the setting depth of the seadike, which endangers seadike region as a result. In this study, the relation of local scouring and setting depth of the seadike front in the run-up region is examined by using 2D hydraulic model tests and numerical simulations by modified SBEACH model. As a result, the study learned that if appropriate boundary condition is applied to the modified SBEACH model, it is possible to create practical estimations on the local scouring at the seadike foot when erosive waves flow into the region.