• Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
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• v.31 no.3
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• pp.223-234
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• 1998

Recently, the interests of the construction of the permeable submerged breakwaters have been increased to preserve and to improve the coastal environment, and to control the incident waves and littoral transport. It is very important to predict the wave transformation precisely over the permeable submerged breakwaters. This study discusses nonlinear wave transformation and characteristics by using BEM based on the frequency domain method of the 3rd-order Stokes waves. The Dupuit-Forchheimer formula is applied to the analysis of the fluid resistance of rubble stones, and the equation about equivalent linear frictional coefficient is newly modified based on the Lorentz's condition for the equivalent work. The numerical results are compared with the experimental ones for verification. These two results give a close agreement each other. It is confirmed that the present method of the 3rd-order Stokes waves estimates more precisely than that of the 2nd-order Stokes waves.