• Acta Via Serica
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.155-174
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• 2023

Trade along the Silk Routes reached its zenith during the Pax Mongolica, a period of relative stability in Eurasia that was created by the Mongol empire in the 13th and 14th centuries. It is generally believed that the Silk Routes declined after the disintegration of the Mongol empire in the second half of the 14th century and that they fell into disuse after the 1453 Ottoman conquest of Constantinople as the Europeans sought alternative maritime routes to Asia. This paper examines the aftermath of the Mongol-era overland and maritime Silk Routes from a non-Eurocentric perspective. Seen from the standpoint of various successors to the Mongol empire, such as the Timurid empire, the Mughal empire, the Uzbek khanate, the Ottoman empire, Manchu Qing, and Russia, the overland and maritime Silk Routes did not really collapse or sharply decline during the post-Mongol period. These Mongol successor states maintained close and thriving overland trade relations with each other or some important maritime trade relations with Southeast Asia. It may be argued that the Silk Routes in the post-Mongol world functioned rather independently of European seaborne commerce.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.5 no.2
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• pp.1-12
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• 1981

Nous avons essaye, dans cette etude, de deceler les caracteristiques de la silhouette du style d'Empire en eclairant it la fois le processus de sa formation ai travers La Monarchie, La Republique, Le Directoire, Le Consulat et l'Empire. Nous avons souligne comme suit: En premier lieu, comme les caracteristiques generaux, la simp lification et la democratisation. En second lieu, comme celles de La Monarchie et de La Republique, la transformation renovatrice en forme grossiere du style cylindriforme de la mode d'epoque ancienne. En troisieme lieu, comme celles du Directoire, la formation de l'unite esthetique au haut degre et les lignes naturelles du corps. En quatrieme lieu, comme celles du Consulat et de l'Empire, l'achevement du style d'Empire d'ornement somptueux refletant l'autorite politique de l'Empereur.

• Journal of English Language & Literature
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• v.58 no.5
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• pp.903-941
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• 2012

This essay examines Edward Said's Culture and Imperialism focusing on the concepts of 'culture,' 'empire,' and 'nation'. The approach is critical, theoretical, and historical rather than explicatory. Consequently, the range of the essay is not limited to Said's own explanation and argument about Western imperialism and its culture presented in the book. In doing this, this essay finally purposes to be a discursive resistance to the current global empire, the United States, via a critical reading of Said's work. Said's notion of culture is set upon to disclose the function of culture as an apparatus of ideological consent of the dominated to the dominant. When applied to imperial practice, Western culture functions to subject the colonized to the colonizer. Said's geographical approach to imperialism complements the historical understanding of imperialism. Imperialism is not only the practice of Western-centered historicism but also the spatially mutual interaction between the West and the rest of the world. Along with European imperialism, Said poses the current global empire of the United States as his main target of criticism. Said's problem is that he takes the United States as a nation-state. When examined, the United States is not a nation-state, but today's empire. The empire in the appearance of the nation-state United States does not work for the interest of the American nation, that is, the American people. The empire is the transnational and postnational political and economic institution that works for the interest of global capital. In order to resist the current global empire, this essay suggests that the building or restoration of nation-states with its basic principle of people's sovereignty is in need.

• Journal of Korean Theatre Studies Association
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• no.40
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• pp.125-162
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• 2010

This is the study on the 'Theater State' in the Daehan Empire of the Emperor Gochung in the late 1900 with the theatrical concepts of cultural performance theory which has been useful for investigating historical, social, and cultural collective memories and their transformation mechanism in the society. The performance theory is based in the notion, '$Performativit{\ddot{a}}t$', by which the performance can contain vary performance forms. $Performativit{\ddot{a}}t$ is the notion which points up the certain process that can cause the perceptional emotion communication to the performers and audiences in the performance. The spectacle of a society is also understood and presupposed by the $Performativit{\ddot{a}}t$. Generally speaking, the spectacle has been used of explaining the visual cultural experiences in society. Fundamentally, spectacle had resulted from the latin 'spectaculum', which was used to designate theatrical representation in France. In the case of movie, spectacle was the grand show with showy technological attractions. The spectacle have been to show the political and socio-historical relationships in a society. But in my study, I want to start the premise that the cultural performance planed by the Emperor Gochung in the Daehan Empire has the attribute of 'theater state', which can awaken the certain collective emotion to connect the Emperor and his people in the Daehan Empire period of the Emperor Gochung of the late 1900. In addition to it, I search for the historical collective memories of the Daehan Empire. The government of the Daehan Empire was continuing with its efforts to enforce and recollect the imperial images and authority of the Emperor and his Empire to get the approval of the people and international society. The effect of spectacle consisting of theater state was the concrete effort to establish the collective memories of the Daehan Empire by remodelling and rebuilding the Seoul, the capital of the Empire and performing the national ceremony such as the korean pagent(Gae-Dung거둥) and parade to set the portrait of the Emperor(A-Jin어진), the geo-body of the Empire.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.2 no.2
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• pp.445-460
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• 1994

This paper analyzes Empire style costume based on the fashion theory of Lauer and Lauer. We classify fashion into tow categories, a personal identities, the social competition and sexual competition, he economic factor as a functional factor, and the reflective thing of zeitgeist, eroticism as a dynamic factor. These factors can be visualized from fashion design, textiles, ornaments expressed in the paintings.

• Acta Via Serica
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.141-164
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• 2021

The Khitans were a Turco-Mongol clan who dominated China north of the Yangtze River during the early mediaeval period. They adopted and then adapted many of the cultural traditions of their powerful neighbours to the south, the Song Chinese. However, before their absorption into the Mongol Empire in the late 13^th century they proved pivotal, firstly in the eastward expansion of the armies of Chinggis Khan, secondly, in the survival of the Persian heartlands after the Mongol invasions of the 1220s and thirdly, in the revival and integration of the polity of Iran into the Chinggisid Empire. Da Liao, the Khitans, the Qara Khitai, names which have served this clan well, strengthened and invigorated the hosts which harboured them. The Liao willingly assimilated into the Chinggisid Empire of whose formation they had been an integral agent and in doing so they also surrendered their identity but not their history. Recent scholarship is now unearthing and recognising their proud legacy and distinct identity. Michal Biran placed the Khitans irrevocably and centrally in mediaeval Asian history and this study emphasises their role in the establishment of the Mongol Empire.

• Journal of architectural history
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• v.25 no.5
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• pp.41-50
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• 2016

This thesis mainly deals with how 'count of Ryang' was used in the Daehan Empire. Count of Ryang means how many purlins were used in the building with longitudinal section. As a result, the notion of Ryang in the Daehan Empire does not differ from now one. But the usages of that are different from the Joseon Dynasty, and from the present. In the Daehan Empire, count of Ryang mainly was appeared with another word, count of Kan. In the Joseon Dynasty, they used the count of Ryang combined with Kan. Count of Kan had the meaning of purlin-directional length. By doing that, count of Ryang indicates the size of flank, count of Kan indicates the length of front. But in the Daehan Empire, count of Kan, especially the beam-directional length was considered at first, and then count of Ryang. Separately they used another count of Kan meaning the area of building. By using the combined words, count of Kan and Ryang in the beam direction, they got focused on the frame of wooden structure than before.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.44 no.3
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• pp.441-451
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• 2020

This study examined the characteristics of the royal progress and regulations on costumes in the king's excursion by a royal carriage and then investigates King Gojong's costumes in "Dongga Painting of the Korean Empire". To examine the regulations on costumes in the king's excursion by a royal carriage, there are unique costumes, 'Ikseongwan and Gangsapo' for the great memorial service for ancestors during the Korean Empire period. 'Ikseongwan and Gangsapo' are not provided in the code during the Joseon Dynasty period. Thus, it was not provided in the regulations, in the actual execution of the ritual, the king put on 'Ikseongwan and Gangsapo,' so entering the Korean Empire period, it was legislated as 'Ikseon-gwanbok' in Daehan-yejeon. There is a scene in the "Dongga Painting of the Korean Empire" in which the king pays a visit on Yeon, holding 'Gyu' in 'Ikseongwan and Gonryongpo'. However, holding 'Gyu' on Yeon in 'Ikseongwan and Gonryongpo' can be seen in King Gojong's royal procession to hold Jongmyo Chunhyangdaeje in the year of Gabo (1894). This study showed that there was a compromise for the ritual despite not being regulated by law.

• Journal of architectural history
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• v.29 no.5
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• pp.17-28
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• 2020

The general contractor business in South Korea settled in the railway construction during the Daehan Empire, but depending on the construction intention and circumstances of the railroad, relationship among employer-contractor-subcontractor and their roles under the system of the construction process had changed. At the time of laying the Gyeongin and Gyeongbu-rail, the Empire, which had no capital and technology, passed all the power and responsibility of the rail laying to the contractor, who was involved in most of the process. After this, the empire tried to lay Gyeongui-railroad without the help of other countries. Japan prepared for the Russo-Japanese War and decided to construct the railway rapidly, and completed the railway in parallel with direct management work and contract work. From that time on, the general contractor would only do the work. During the construction of railroad in Daehan empire, the general contract business system was established. The ambiguous process was sorted out and divided. At this time, subjects in charge of design and construction has been divided. The internal organization of the project owner and the contractor were organaized and specialized.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.64-73
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• 2015

This paper examines the characteristics of Hungarian women's costumes under the Reign of the Habsburg Empire in the $19^{th}$ Century. Since the beginning of the $19^{th}$ century, the Habsburg Empire inflicted strong oppression on Hungary. Under the influence of the European upper class, exaggerated and sumptuous costumes were fashionable in the Hungarian Aristocracy. They preferred blouses decorated with colorful embroidery, pleated sleeves, gorgeous beads and lace, long pleated skirts with velvet borders, corsets decorated with delicate embroidery, coats adorned with lace, and capes. However, Hungarian nationalists protested against the Habsburg Empire's oppression; consequently, Hungarian national costumes expressed a sense of resistance and solidarity. The results of the study are as follows. The Hungarian women's costumes were different from women's costumes of the Habsburg Empire in regards to headdress, bodice, apron, pattern and shoes. The Hungarian women's headdress consists of the parta and veil. The bodice is richly adorned with colorful embroidery and differs from skirts in color and material. The Hungarian women's apron is distinct from the Habsburg Empire as a unique Hungarian item. Finally, Hungarian costumes are characterized by the Oriental pattern and short boots with metal heels.