• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.1
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• pp.205-215
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• 2010

In modern society as people adapt to social and cultural changes, people prefer high-scarcity designed products rather than standardized ones. Consequently, this adaptation lays a foundation in art and cultural domains to express uniqueness and individuality. The purpose of this study is to develop fashion designs by fusing fashion painting and handicraft techniques through creative and various artistic expressions. The researchers studied the sociocultural background of modern handicraft fashion using document-based research methods. Based on the characteristics of modern handicraft, we produced six garments that applied fashion painting techniques. In this study, the origin of fashion painting was found in ornaments such as tattoo or body-painting. We determined that modern designers were using various fashion painting techniques and motives as unique and advanced ornamentary skills. Harmonizing various handicraft techniques(dyeing, embroidery, quilt, patchwork, beads, fashion painting, etc.) centered on fashion painting enabled creation of unique fashion design through varieties of artistic expressions.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.1-20
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• 2005

This study is purposed to provide new idea for developing high value added fashion goods by studying relief effects of fashion design. Based on prior researches, various ways to give relief effects were searched and then modern fashion design cases were looked for which were referred to fashion-related magazines and collection-related internet sites since the late 1990s. The ways for relief effects are weaving, industrial finishing, sewing technique. Weaving techniques are about fancy yarns, variation of weaving structure, pile weave. Industrial finishing techniques which can make relief effects are embossing, heat-setting, shearing, pliss, burn out, flocking. Sewing techniques are quilting, pleats, embroidery, slash, attachment in accordance with the way to produce relief effects. The forms of relief effects are tactile pattern that cannot be seen in the distance, subtle relief pattern which is more three-dimensional than tactile pattern, rhythmical relief pattern, sculptural pattern, and deep-volumed pattern. The present research can provide practical data for design by studying techniques of relief effects and collecting and arranging design cases that have been sporadically carried out. The study on relief and unique surface effects can be a way to effectively stimulate and express emotions of modern people with various taste and individuality.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.4
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• pp.25-37
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• 1981

Art Nouveau style refers to the movement of art which was started in France and Belgium in the last decade of the 19th and the early years of the 20th century. The distinguishing characteristics of Art Nouveau style are the sensous sinuosity of its line, nervously undulating, curving over itself, rhythmical, flowing in endless patterns, which are inspired by animals and plants, specially by flowers, leaves, long stalks. The Art Nouveau style includes also the extreme simplicity of form, and asymmetric design. This new trend of art movement spread into architecture, furniture, wall papers, graphic design, accessories and textiles. In this paper, I tried to find out whether or not the Art Nouveau style had an effect on clothing. Because I believe clothing, like architecture, painting, and sculpture, is an Art form that derives from a particular set of cultural circumstances and reflects the needs and aspirations of the society for which it is created. Fashions in clothing over the last five thousand years have mirrorred the art form as well as the spirit. The result of this study shows that the Art Nouveau style made a lasting contribution to the modernism of clothing as well as architecture and interior design at the end of 19th century and the early years of the 20th century. The modernism of clothing appeared in the straight silhouette, asymmetric design, simple and light trimming, embroidery with Art Nouveau pattern, and stylized flower design in textile. Art Nouveau made a great contribution toward the modern clothing to have its liveliness and its harmonious relationship between clothing design and the use of materials.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.75-85
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• 2005

This study analyzed the factors of change of women's underwear in the Renaissance, which had a sudden change of shape. First, the spirit of the Renaissance was focused on human-attached importance to glamorous beauty of the body and pursued the glamorous well-proportioned figure as the ideal of the human body. This expressed a woman's beautiful curved lines by reduction of their waist size and emphasis of breast and hip lines. It also created and emphasized one's physical figure, which is a characteristic of sex. Also the materials and size of underwear cleared up the classification of class. Second, through the development of weaving techniques, more textiles were produced, from linen, the most common material used, to silk in underwear and stomacher, and chemise, which was made more splendid be devising elaborate embroidery techniques. Third, as we know that the farthingale was devised in Spain and transmitted to France because of the prevalence of printing and trade, where it changed and developed to more convenient style, this shows that information interchange was active, and we can see the phenomenon that it is developing continually through the prevalence of printing and trade.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.135-143
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• 2006

The definition of the 'Pocket', according to the Korean encyclopedia, is an accessory that a person puts in small belongings or money and carry on waist or holds with a hand. Since the pockets were not attached to the clothes at that period of time, the portable bag or pocket had been used without distinction of age or sex for carrying personal belongings. The pocket in France was also used in a similar manner, where it was used as a handbag to carry purse, comb, or a key by women during the middle ages. The pockets were decorated, made of quality material such as velvet, silk, or satin with splendid embroidery or beads. This study closely examines the history of the pocket from late 16th century around Renaissance to early 20th century in France and during the mid Cho-Sun dynasty in Korea and compares the different kinds of patterns, symbolism, and the purpose of the pockets. In addition, the relationships between the pockets, belongings, and ornament are examined as well by thoroughly investigating the unique characteristics of the pocket of each country.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.3
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• pp.61-73
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• 2002

The purpose of this study lies in pursuing the unique plastic arts with the orchid motif which has the graceful colors and a variety of shapes beauty. Another aspect of this study intends to crease the modern costume design with the high added value by expressing the texture according to the material and tissue development for the continual improvement and promotion of the modern costume design in the handicraft art area. The results through the theoretical survey and the work production are as follows : First, the orchid which has the various shapes and colors provides the designers with the unique plastic arts and the possibilities for the unlimited expressions as the design motives. Second, we can see the creation of cubic plastic beauty in the moving line, as the material which has the flexible and brilliant shape fixation, used for expressing the shape beauty of the orchid. Third, this study reveals the extension of expression areas as a characteristic of the plastic arcs by applying handicraft techniques such as dyeing, corded tuck, flounce, crochet, weaving, beads embroidery, and art flower to the costumes for developing the unique material and texture. Finally, the possibility is suggested that the desires of the moderns searching for their own individualities can be met by creating the costumes with the added vague as the exposure of esthetic consciousness through the handicraft expression techniques.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.26 no.6
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• pp.934-950
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• 2018

This study suggests a new perspective for designing men's tailored jackets by more carefully considering human muscle structure. For this study, we examined research regarding the construction of the tailored jacket that is based on costume history references, as well as research regarding human muscle structure that is based on human anatomy references and the analysis of recent fashion designs illustrating the human body image. Based on this research, we developed various tailored constructions that account for human muscle structure. These constructions are applied primarily to the backs of four tailored jackets, as the back of the jacket needs a mechanism to accommodate the wearer's movement. The following conclusions have been derived from the study: First, by developing the tailored garment structure that accounts for the muscle structure of the human body, we suggest a new design direction for tailored garments. Second, we propose a new type of tailored jacket structure for the back of the jacket that incorporates an artificial muscle structure to accommodate the wearer's activities. This new type of jacket indicates the potential for designs that use structure, particularly the structure of the human body. Finally, by using the embroidery technique, we changed the texture of the material into the shape of human muscle. Thus, we propose a design that uses three-dimensional volume to accounts for the shape of human body tissue.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.27 no.6
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• pp.47-65
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• 2023

The purpose of this study is to derive the future-oriented characteristics Sonia Delaunay presented at the time based on the identity and modernity shown in her works and diverse activity. The scope of study spans from 1907 to the start of World War II and includes both applied and fine arts, with a focus on textiles and fashion. The research method is a literary study that includes old documents, exhibition booklets, and explanations from museum curators. The visual materials are actual works observed at exhibitions and digital images of various exhibitions. As a result of the research, she was a practitioner who expressed her identity in marriage, artwork, textiles, and fashion. In order to embody her design and express modernity, she showed geometric and modern motifs and she incorporated a sense of bright color and modernized light into her work by following the principle of simultaneous contrast in color. Additionally, she applied Hungarian embroidery techniques to simple materials and created geometric abstraction with her simultaneous colors, which contributed to both originality and the mass production of textile design. The future-oriented characteristics she presented are the dynamism of modern rhythm, the expansion of convergence and collaboration, the innovation of new production and exhibition, the media of consumer society, and the femininity of modern life. She recognized the mass consumer society and mass production of the early 20th century and actively utilized various media and genres to evoke a dynamic sense necessary for modern life and presented a design to be seen as a modern woman.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.25-33
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• 2004

This study is aimed at reviewing how the Orientalism trend is expressed in the modem fashion in terms of silhouette, color, materials, and detail. To this end, the geographic scope of this study is limited to China, Japan, Korea, while data are collected from fashion collections, domestic and foreign magazines since 2000's, literature, and internet sites. The results of this study can be summarized as follows: 1. Silhouette: the basic square silhouette of the Oriental traditional costume do not disturb the body movement and have an effected on design to smoothly follow the body line rather than cutting out materials into several parts or emphasize the curved body. 2. Color: due to the influence of the Oriental Zen thought, color trend seems to pursue simplicity rather than complexity, and natural aesthetics. In addition, the Oriental colorfulness shall not be ignored. 3. Materials: golden embroidered material, polished satin, jersey, tough or rough materials, etc. have used with materials of the Oriental traditional costume came into fashion. In pattern, the Orientalism trend is expressive of pattern by Chinese ink-spread technique, simple brush touch technique, cloud pattern, lotus flower pattern or dragon pattern, all of which feature the Oriental calm aesthetics or those motivated by the Oriental traditional patterns. 4. Detail: the techniques of handicrafts and manual arts such as meticulous embroidery, tassel or patchwork reflect well the Orientalism trend in the modem fashion.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.10 no.3
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• pp.61-71
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• 2008

Knit wear with comfortable feeling of wearing and various coordinations gives new values to the modern people, who seek activities and individualities, and the demand for knit wear is on the rise. This article aims to analyze the aesthetic characteristics of Korean knit fashion. Fashion photographs from leading monthly fashion magazines in Korea from 2005 to 2007 had been analyzed. The knitting techniques, and designing characteristics and aesthetic values of Korean knit fashion had been studied. The major conclusions of the study are the following: 1. Korean knit fashion applies various knitting techniques. The knitting techniques used in Korean knit fashion are hand-knitting technique, crochet techniques, lace techniques, plain stitch, rib stitch, and purl stitch technique. 2. Decorations by trimming and matching with different textile materials are used more frequently than decorations by knit material itself. Decorating methods include fringes, spangle, beads, Rhine stone, motif and embroidery decorating. Matching with different textile materials made contrasting decoration effect. 3. Patterms by knitting structure and by arranging colors are applied. Cubic effect by knitting structure patterns, and geometric patterns by arranging colors are emphasized. 4. The formative feature beauties are natural beauty, feminine beauty, and decorative beauty. Korean knit fashion has developed creative and decorative designs through various knitting techniques and decorating techniques. As individual activities may be increased in the future, the designs and applications of knit fashion may be diversified.