• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.19 no.1
• /
• pp.95-105
• /
• 2015

This study investigated the color culture in the Japanese Medieval Age. The Japanese Medieval Age included the Kamakura period (1180-1333) and Muromachi period (1336-1573), and the leading group transitioned from the Kuge families to the Buke families. The taboos about colors from ancient times became nominal, and forbidden colors, such as purple, celadon, and red, became the colors of the samurai, leading to beautiful soldier gears that were unparalleled in history. In the Kamakura period, colors that conveyed a strong impression were created and preferred with the combination of a samurai's reasonable spirit and zen thoughts. The period was also called "the era of hari", and cross dyeing based on basic colors such as suou (red), ai (blue), and kuchinasi (yellow) was popular. In both the Kamakura and Muromachi periods, conspicuous and strong colors were sought for costumes, and embroidery was used with gold leaf, silver leaf, gold threads, silver threads, and background color. The colors of costume preferred by Buke men in the period included green, blue, and brown. In the characteristics of the kosode, the sugan and hitadare were used for men's formal dress, while kosode was used for the grooming of the working class. In these periods, additionally, the working class began to be socially engaged in actively wearing the one-layer kosode, which became popular, and the characteristics of the Japanese Medieval Age, during which functionality and practicality was valued, were also reflected in the dressing.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.61 no.3
• /
• pp.122-138
• /
• 2011

The present research aims to consider the real remains of 2 suits of Kasaya owned by the Hwaeom Temple(華嚴寺) based on research results about Kasaya in the meanwhile. The present research on 2 suits of remains which are Royal gifts given to monk soldiers in case of a national crisis of the Joseon Dynasty has a big meaning in examining characteristics of Kasaya and grasping characteristics and structure of the 17th century's Kasaya of the Joseon Dynasty through dense survey and analysis according to components. If examining characteristics of Kasaya, the Kasaya of the Great Monk Seo San(西山) is composed on the basis of an initial form of Sun and Moon Light Patch's generation and the Kasaya of the Great Monk Byeok Am(碧巖) has a form that is separately attached through production of embroidery patch as a process of being settled down. If examining what surrounds gold thread in the girth and expression of Sumeru and Chaeunmun(彩雲紋), the composition of a form similar to an insignia badge, so because this is a Royal gift, this can be estimated as being analyzed in a Buddhism aspect by devising a design from the insignia badge at the time, with a meaning like an official uniform given to a monk. Although the insignia badge is a square, it seems that the Sun and Moon Light Patch is made as a rectangular form corresponding to the structure of Kasaya. In addition, it is thought that what the Samjoko(三足烏) idea which is a symbol of the Sun based on Buddhism and Taoism is used together with Yijoko(二足烏) even in expression of the Sun and Moon Light Patch in the Joseon Dynasty which was a Confucian country has a relationship with what a bird was expressed in the insignia badge of winged animals.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.16 no.2
• /
• pp.196-207
• /
• 2014

This study considers expression types and aesthetic characteristics by analyzing Animal sculptures by Billie Achilleos in art collaboration with Louis Vuitton. The conclusions of this study are as follows. First, As for expressin type shown in the art collaboration, it is reflected the historical and cultural value peculiar to a country symbolized through animals. As the aesthetic characteristics of symbolism, it reflects historical identity of country by using an image of a symbolic animal representing a state. Second, as the type shown in physical characteristics of animals by utilizing items in Louis Vuitton directly, it is organically expressed a literal type by directly integrating a form having been designed as a commodity itself into the characteristically physical part of an animal. As the aesthetic characteristics according to this is naturality, the motive of the work having borrowed shapes of diverse animals or insects can be said to have been naturally reflected in the primitive natural beauty. Third, through the deconstruction and recombination of a Louis Vuitton item. the amusement of the aesthetic characteristics was expressed in a type having the structurally embodied dynamic movement of an animal, and is expressing visual fun. Fourth, it uses expression type emphasized a specific part of an animal by decorating accessories in Louis Vuitton partly. The aesthetic characteristics is Ornament, the value of craft decoration is being shown by using colorful visual effects by using materials with the colorful textures and patterns of fabrics or mixing embroidery or beads, and belt decoration.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.7 no.3
• /
• pp.167-179
• /
• 2005

Skirts hold an important position in dress culture among various dress forms, being worn by more than half of mu. In this study, Chima is defined as garment for lower part of the body without crotch sewing, contrasting with trousers. The authors classify and compare the formation of the skirts of minority races in Yunnan area, based on Korean Chima, understanding the forms of skirts and examining the composition, color, pattern and material. For the study, the authors investigated 57 pieces of skirts among 341 pieces of minority races dresses from Yunn Nationality Museum collection exhibited at Korea Folk Village in May 2003, and referred to customs materials and photos in various literatures. Skirts in Yunnan area are divided into 6 areas, that is, seamless one-piece skirt area, wrapskirt area and mixed type skirt area. Skirt formation factors from the effect of environment such as climate, lifestyle and means of production were studied, and characteristics, differences and similarities were reviewed. Figure of skirts are studied by compostion, color, material, and technique. By composition, they can be classified based on the similarity to Hanbok (traditional Korean dress). By color, worshipped color and preferred color vary by races and by area. Materials vary in kinds and thickness by area with various climate. By technique, national characteristic patterns are inherited through national traditional dyeing and embroidery. It is not easy to conclude based on single item of skirt, but we suggest that national dresses have been settled through the mutual supplements between the effect of social and cultural exchange such as historical inheritance, geological environment, religion and production activity and the various forms of skirts from changes in shape, color, material and wearing form of dresses.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.10 no.1
• /
• pp.79-93
• /
• 2006

The purpose of this study is to analyze designs of exhibition clothing in terms of the use of Korean image, to review objectively contents about the use of traditional image, understand external elements of works, and give directions and basic data for future works. This study selected the total 250 works as the subject of this study among the collected data. This study classified and examined the use of Korean image found in exhibition clothing according to period, item, line and form, material, technique of expression and accessary between 1996 and 2004. The results of analysis are as follows (1) The most artworks were comprised in adaptation were Choson costume. (2) Most of them were clothing works for female. The item of chima were the most preferred in use. (3) The straight lines are used more frequently than curved lines. Forms of skirts were applied to those of silhouettes, H and A form were common. (4) In terms of materials, traditional materials such as silk, linen and cotton were commonly used. (5) Geometric patterns and plant pattern were found more often than others. (6) In terms of techniques of expression, patchwork was most frequent, quilting, embroidery and pleating were ranked second, third and fourth. (7) In accessaries and other item, gorom were most common and norigae were ranked second. (8) As Korean image has been expressed by fine parts of traditional costumes, the traditional living item, and local symbols, the range of works are becoming wider.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.12 no.1
• /
• pp.131-139
• /
• 2010

The ten traditional symbols of longevity are represented as 10 which means perfection in oriental philosophy, the sun, mountain, water, cloud, rock, pine tree, elixir plant, tortoise, crane and deer. each subjects symbolizing longevity had used in isolation. unlike China and Japan, the ten symbols of longevity became a fixed form and was widely used in paintings, household effects and clothes in Korea. therefore, It will be a meaningful study how the ten symbols of longevity, as one of subjects in painting, changed into a pattern on clothes. The ten symbols of longevity was affected by various philosophies and religion. especially, it laid emphasis on order by Yin-Yang and the Five Elements theory. the order was applied to arrange each subjects and use colors carefully. the sun colored with red and was on the upper. the pine tree colored with green meaned tree and was on the left. the earth and the mountain meaned the soil and was on the center. the rock meaned the iron and was on the right. the water meaned the water and was on the bottom. The subjects of the study were embroideries like spectacle cases, spoon cases and pouches. the scope of study was the Latter Part of the Joseon Dynasty because there are more relics in the Joseon Dynasty than any other times.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.58 no.4
• /
• pp.35-46
• /
• 2008

The purpose of this study was to closely examine the history of glasses and their cases used in the middle and late of Joseon Dynasty and identify inherent quality of our traditional glasses cases through color analyses of glasses cases' material and shape. While theoretical examination was conducted based on the literatures of glasses and their cases that firstly appeared in around Japanese Invasion (Imjin war) of Korea in 1592, practical analyses were demonstrated on photos of glasses cases used in the middle and late of Joseon Dynasty collected from both museum pieces and the internet which were grouped into wood, fabric, paper, sharkskin, hawksbill and cow's horn in accordance with their materials. 623 color samples were abstracted from collected 159 glasses cases and quantity analyses on each material were performed respectively. Abstracted representative colors based on the result of color analyses were classified into the main materials and accessories' color scheme. The result of this study are as follow: firstly, both Yellow and Yellow Red were mostly used in main materials. In Fabric case's colors were widely used in embroidery and in animal matter material cases such as sharkskin, hawksbill and cow's horn, which can be used as itself or dyed, Green Yellow shown in high frequency. Secondly, accessories were analyzed into similarity coloration with main materials. From this finding, it turns out that our traditional cases have characteristic of similarity coloration between main materials and accessories. Red Purple and Purple Blue in high frequency in accessories used as an accent color. Finally, based on the analysis of hue and tone, while the middle and low value colors shown in very high frequency, the high-chroma colors hardly shown.

• Journal of the Korea Academia-Industrial cooperation Society
• /
• v.18 no.5
• /
• pp.10-15
• /
• 2017

Research interest has strongly focused on developing a method for effectively transmitting bio-signals over a distance using a wireless wearable device. In this paper, we describe a procedure for the design and fabrication of a wearable antenna based on embroidering conductive threads to clothing capable of transmitting electrocardiogram signals. 3D electromagnetic simulation software and embroidery software were used to design and fabricate the conductive thread-based antenna, respectively. The measurement results show that the reflection coefficient of the fabricated antenna prototype exhibits excellent antenna impedance matching characteristics of less than -10dB in the Zigbee 2.4GHz frequency band. We also verified that the electrocardiogram data could be effectively received and monitored in real-time by a receiver 220m away from the transmitter.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.60 no.5
• /
• pp.71-87
• /
• 2010

The purpose of the study is analyzing Japanese modern costume, through examining legislation process and the relics of Chickimkwan's and Juimkwan's court costume. The results of the study are as follows. First, the proposer of civil court costume, established in 1872, was Iwakura Mission dispatched to America and Europe. The Mission realized the importance of preparing western-style costume in civilization from experience wearing traditional clothing at ceremony of presenting credentials in America. Afterwards, the Mission proposed that the government accept western-style as civil court costume and became first wearers in Japanese in England. Second, the difference, between ordinance and actual clothes worn by Iwakura Mission, occurred in process of legislation in 1872. That might be considered as trial and error in introducing different culture. The coexistence of England and French styles was unified into French style by the revision of civil court costume in 1886. Third, the pattern of paulownia embroidered on civil court costume was utilized as symbol of Japan. While the costume of Chickimkwan was embroidered by the pattern of 7 and 5 leaves paulownia, that of Juimkwan was 5 and 3 leaves expressing their grades. Fourth, relics research showed how formed manufacturer information and enacted design were in embroidery. The relics seemed to be manufactured in Japan, because emblem of Mitsukosi tailor was embroidered on inner part of the back of collar of Chickimkwan in Nara Women's University, Japan and that of Yamasaki on left inner pocket of Juimkwan in the Independence Hall, Korea. The embroider techniques comprised forming by filler particles according to the design, filling up coiled gold threads and expressing stem with gold threads and spangles. As preemptive study, establishment process of Japanese civil court costume in this study will help understand form characteristics appeared in civil court costume act of Korean Empire.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.13 no.4
• /
• pp.472-477
• /
• 2011

In the tide of globalization, culture products play pivotal role in effectively introducing our tradition and culture to the world. This research is about developing culture products using our traditional lady's art craft work to attain the purpose of modern application through recreation of tradition along with modern technology. First, the types of traditional lady's art craft work include pouches, wrapping clothes and other accessories made by sewing except costumes. The materials used were cotton, silk, ramie, hemp and decorating techniques involved were embroidery, patchwork, quilting, knot. Second, the purpose of this study is developing culture products with traditional images which also satisfy modern sense. Therefore, items that could be used readily in daily life were selected. Such items include bags, mufflers, name card cases, brooches. In addition, the Korean traditional Patchwork images which have both western-style and modern sense were selected out of the many kinds of traditional lady's art craft works. Third, cultural products (bags, mufflers, name card cases, brooches) were created by DTP in silk with sacdong and free-styled division Korean traditional Patchwork images and quilting technique. The significance of this study lies in examining the possibility of developing modern culture products using traditional lady's art craft work. A way to further develop this study would be to shed new light on traditional crafts and local cultural resources and actively carry on the study of cultural product development to provide the foundation for developing cultural products with modern applications.