• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제18권5호
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• pp.637-646
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• 2016

The goal of this study is to provide basic data on developing circular knit basic pattern for women in their 20's. Production conditions of circular knit product pattern making among domestic women's apparel industry was researched, and collected data on sizes and ease amounts from woven and circular knit pattern were compared and analyzed. According to the result of the survey, product measurements adjusted to the actual body size fit for the brand's image were used, and the common problem among manufacturers and consumers regarding circular knit products turned out to be change in size and form due to stretching. For the basic pattern of circular knit, stretching quality was reflected in the woven basic pattern based on plain stitch(single knit) and then dart was removed and ease amount was reduced. The result of looking into size and ease amount about woven and circular knit torso & sleeve block shows that there is a significant difference among chest circumference, hip circumference, bi-shoulder length, interscye back, interscye front, scye depth, upper arm circumference and wrist circumference, and it was clear that circumference and width on the areas around the wrist tended to fit around the body more when circular knit was used instead of woven fabric.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제38권1호
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• pp.97-109
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• 2014

This study developed a functional dress shirt for adult males that reflected the body surface variation of a human body section by motion. This study conducted a 3D body scan for 8 subjects in their 40's based on the Size Korea 2010 database. Data recorded the proper posture change value and body surface change value to develop functional dress shirts for adult males. We scanned the subjects with a 3D body scanner for five primarily male wearing dress shirts and operating postures, right standing, arms raised to $90^{\circ}$ horizontal forward position, arms raised $90^{\circ}$ to the horizontal position side, lift up the arm $180^{\circ}$, and arm forward $90^{\circ}$ in a bent posture. We analyzed the 3D scan data from those motions to examine change of length using 3D software Rapidform XOS. The results indicated that the body surface sections with contraction were the front and rear shoulder area, armpit and central length as well the width of arms at more than 10%. The increased body section included the body and armpit back length; in addition, the rear arm vibration girth and under arm girth were more than 10%. In order to reflect the size variation of for each motion, the ease amount of the front and rear shoulder length and width needs to be reduced 20% because it affects the shoulder length during the right standing. The results suggest that the ease amount of the shoulder length should be minimal. The ease amount of the back size needs to be 0.5-2cm bigger and set 0.5-1.5cm longer than the dress shirt length side drooping to compensate for the side length shortage of each motion. The sleeve length needs to be 0-0.5cm shorter, and ease amount of the girth of sleeve bottom needs to be reduced 0-0.7cm due to the size variation of arms. However, the girth of the rear arms is suggested to be 0-0.6cm longer in the ease amount to the rear arm girth as the extension is more than 10% over the width and length of each motion.

• 대한인간공학회지
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• 제19권1호
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• pp.109-125
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was to provide basic data for a more functional torso's pattern by analyzing multidimensional anthropometric measurements and the wearing condition. For the functional torso's pattern drafting, the fitness state of basic torso's patterns(4 types) was compared and evaluated from the cross-sectioned overlap maps by $moir{\acute{e}}$ topography. The results were as follows: 1. According to the measurements of four patterns by using the one-dimensional measurement, the amount of ease in girth item for pattern A was the smallest. The ease of clothes was affected by the position of dart, the amount of dart, and the drafting method. 2. As the results of wearing evaluation by $moir{\acute{e}}$ topography method, pattern B had the largest space length for hip part, pattern A, C and D had the largest space length for bust part. Also, in the all measurement items, pattern A had the smallest amount of ease. The space length for bust and waist part of pattern B was smaller than pattern D, but, for abdomen and hip part of pattern B was larger than pattern D. The space length of pattern C was revealed intermediate for all measurement part. 3. The significant difference of space length of each pattern was shown in all parts except bust part(p<.05). The amount of space was affected by the amount of dart, the characteristics of the somatotype, and the drafting method.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제17권1호
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• pp.105-115
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• 2015

This study aims to compare the ease of men's single-pleated pants patterns, and to analyze the fit and appearance through the 3D virtual garment system. The researchers selected five(four educational materials and one industrial pattern) slim-fit single-pleated pants which is the current fashion trend in menswear. The CLO 3D Modelist program was utilized to carry out the appearance evaluation through virtual wearing, opacity, and clothing pressure. The results showed that D pants had the greatest ease on the waist circumference, while C pants had the least ease. The E pants had the greatest ease on the hip circumference, then B pants and C pants showed less ease. Also, the E pants had the longest on the pants length, then D pants showed the shortest. In the appearance evaluation, A pants received the most favorable results, followed by D, B, E, and C pants, in descending order. The clothing pressure appeared to be mainly red on the waist, crotch, and hem in all pants, so the clothing pressure was high. From the results, we can understand that each of the 5 single-pleated pants patterns has different ease amount and silhouette.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제18권5호
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• pp.602-614
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• 1994

The purpose of this study was to suggest the proper ease of total crotch length concerning both appearance and comfort. The research processes as follows. 1) For the purpose of obtaining the necessary ease of slacks in body movement, experimental slacks of no ease of total crotch length were made. Three college girls putting on these experimental slacks were examined on their back middle waist lines using cross-cut method. 2) Experimental slacks for suggesting the proper ease consist of 7 types; slacks CO, Wl, W3, W5, W7, C3, C5. The sensory evaluation for appearance and comfort was applied to evaluate the 7 slacks. The results can be summarized as follows. 1. As the leg-movement angle increased, the vertical space increased and the horizontal space decreased. There was negative relationship between vertical and horizontal space. And as the leg.movement angle increased, the area of space increased. The shapes of space showed the amounts of space and the direction of force by the movements. 2. The appearances of slacks C3, W3, C5 were better than the other slacks. The eases of the crotch were better than those of the waist line in appearance. And slakcs W7 was better than any other , ;lacks in comfort. When the amount of each part of eases was same, the comfort in eases of crotch was not as good as that of waist line. 3. In slacks, the proper ease of total crotch length was 3% and 5% of total crotch length.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제28권12호
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• pp.1605-1616
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• 2004

본 연구는 개개인에게 최적 맞음새를 제공하는 남자 맞춤 재킷 소비자들을 대상으로 신체 부위별 치수 및 재킷 치수를 측정하여 여유량을 산출하였고, 또한 여유량 특성을 파악하기 위해 각 여유량을 신체 특성, 연령, 신체 인식정도 및 선호하는 재킷 실루엣별로 비교 분석하였으며 동시에 소비자들이 재킷 전체 맞음새를 고려할 때 중요하게 여기는 부위를 연령 및 체격별로 분석하였다. 신체 치수에 따라 가장 민감하게 여유량이 변화한 부위는 가슴둘레였으며 허리둘레와 엉덩이둘레의 여유량은 신체 치수보다는 재킷 실루엣을 위해 조정되는 부위였다. 신체 치수 다음으로 맞음새와 여유량에 가장 큰 영향을 미치는 요인은 연령이었다. 또한 재킷의 전체 맞음새를 위해 소비자들이 가장 중요하게 여기는 부위는 어깨의 맞음새였으며 특히, 피트되는(fit)스타일을 선호하는 소비자들은 전체적으로 각 부위별, 특히 허리 맞음새에 특별한 관심을 보였다. 자신의 신체에 대한 인식 중 엉덩이에 대한 인식에 따라 가슴둘레, 허리둘레, 엉덩이둘레에서의 선호 맞음새가 달랐다. 또한 뚱뚱하다고 생각하는 소비자들이 오히려 여유가 적은 허리둘레 맞음새를 선호하였으며 이는 허리둘레 여유량을 조정함으로써 전통적인 재킷 실루엣을 유지하기 위한 것으로 해석 할 수 있다. 이상과 같이 각 체격별로, 연령별로 그리고 선호 스타일별로 중요하게 여기는 맞음새 부위와 실제 재킷 부위별 여유량이 달랐으므로 기성 재킷 생산 업체에서는 타겟 체형 및 타겟 연령에 따라 재킷 부위별 여유량과 맞음새 중요 순위 및 그 정도를 달리하여야 소비자 만족도를 높일 수 있을 것이다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제34권1호
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• pp.153-166
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• 2010

The study analyzes the lower-trunk sizes of 7-12 year old elementary school boys and compares sizes with boys, juniors, and men for analyzing and image fit. For the study, the data of SizeKorea (2004) was analyzed. Waist, hip, and the ratio of hip-thickness to hip-width were significantly different between age groups as well as between boys, juniors, and men. In the same height group, over 145cm boys had bigger waist than juniors and smaller waists than men. Therefore, the difference of waist size and the length of leg could cause the dissatisfaction of the pant fit when tall and plump boys chose a corresponding pants size to individual height or waist. The hip-thickness of body and pants patterns were compared in the analysis of the ease of hip-thickness. Tall and plump boys will feel discomfort in the crotch area because of the insufficiency of the hip-thickness of pants. Therefore, the amount of crotch extension of individual pants should be calculated by hip size instead of using the fixed amount. The reference sizes for discriminative pants for tall and plump boys were analyzed for a better fit.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제10권4호
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• pp.392-403
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to make clear reduction ratio due to the stretch ratio and to find out the ease for the patterns of stretch skirt according to fat body type to improve the aesthetics and wearing satisfaction. For this study, three college students were selected according to the fat body types; According to fat body types, 15 experimental skirt which were different each other in terms of the amount of ease on wait and hip, were made for the appearance test and wearing satisfaction test. The results from the study were as follows: 1. The results from the appearance test were as follows. For the ease on waist, W+2cm and W+0cm for fat body type were suggested for the best fit. For the ease on hip, H+2cm and H+0cm for fat body type were suggested for the best fit. 2. The results from wearing satisfaction test were as follows. W+2cm, H+2cm for fat body type were suggested for the best wearing satisfaction. 3. Based on the results from the above tests, the pattern reduction ratios for stretch skirt were as follows. pattern reduction ratio 0∼2.4% of waist, 1.9∼3.8% of hip for fat body type, were suggested for the appropriate reduction ratio for stretch skirt. 4. The result from this study for stretch skirt was as follows. For fat body type, W+2cm, W+0cm for waist and H+2cm, H+0cm for hip were appropriate for stretch skirt pattern. Therefore, different ease has to be applied to stretch skirt pattern according to the body parts, to make the skirt looks good, is appropriate for fat body type, and is satisfied with appearance and wearing satisfaction test.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제12권6호
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• pp.789-795
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• 2010

The purpose of this study was to examine the appropriate surplus of clothing for a jacket bodice pattern of middle-aged obese men by using the 3D virtual twin and virtual garment simulation system. The results were as follows ; 1. BMI rate of middle-aged males was 28.13 which was equivalent to mild obesity, whereas WHR(W/H ratio from waist to hips) rate was near 1.00 which was highly dangerous against their obesity. In case of middle-aged obese men, the WHR was significantly higher than the entire middle-aged men's average and the section shape in which their thickness was relatively more than width. 2. As a result of appearances evaluation through virtual garment simulation, the cut-off amount of the side seam and the center back was regulated accordingly. Hereby, the final tolerance range was set up at 21.15 cm at the hips, so that the appearances became better and the bilateral distribution of the cross section and space length was formed symmetrically. Especially in case of increasing the cross amount of hems to produce a natural silhouette of the waist-to-hips parts, the ease of buttocks was judged to be moderate, but it turned out that a wavy cross section was made and the silhouette was not good. Thus it was found to be not good that the ease of the hips became excessively increased in proportion as circumference of waist and belly were increased in obesity. The use of the virtual twin made it impossible to comprehend the appearances and ease correspondent to motions. In order to evaluate wearing fitness, therefore, the system should be improved so as to change arm positions and perform various motions.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제23권4호
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• pp.149-166
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• 2021

This study tried to suggest a drafting method to draft tight fit torso patterns suitable for adult males with a sway back somatotype and a bend forward somatotype by setting and distributing the ease through the completion of the somatic surface pattern using the 3D body surface segment method. It was intended to be presented as a drafting method. As for the research method, the suitability of the somatic surface patterns and the tight fit torso patterns were confirmed by the evaluation of virtual wear, and the patterns were modified and supplemented. The research results are as follows. In the first evaluation of the tight fit torso patterns, the average, for 55 evaluation items, was 3.92 points for the sway back somatotype and 3.89 points for the bend forward somatotype. In the second evaluation, the bend forward somatotype was 4.51 points and the sway back somatotype was 4.62 points. The chest circumference ease amount for the bend forward somatotype and the sway back somatotype are 6.5% (6.8 cm) and 7% (6.8 cm) of the chest circumference, respectively, and the distribution of the front and back ease is the same at 4:6 (2.72 cm:4.08 cm). The waist circumference ease amount is 6.5% (5.8cm) and 6.5% (5.6 cm) of the waist circumference dimensions, and the distribution of the front and backease are 5:5 (1.45 cm: 1.45 cm) and 4:6 (2.24 cm: 3.36 cm), respectively. The completed tight fit torso patterns were converted into institutional formulas and presented as a drafting method.