• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.20 no.1
• /
• pp.87-97
• /
• 1996

Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles Vol. 20, No. 1 (1996) p. 87∼9'F The purpose of this study was to identify the change and chracteristics of 20th men's fashion under the influences of America. The result of the study as follows: 1. England had led men's fashion and introduced new styles of men's fashion such as oxford bags, plus fours, drape cut etc. in the early of 20th century. But America, which had the strongest Political and financial power after World War I, II, proposed Americans cut, soot sit, bold look. 2. In the first half of 20th century men's fashion was no longer created by imitation royalty and students of private school. American movies exerted tremendous influences on the clothing styles. Genereal public adopted the dress of movie stars and American men's fashion magazines inspired the new fashion and generated sales. So America made a contribution towards democratization of men's fashion. 3. Automobile industry and leisure living of America changed American life styles and clothing styles. The wealthy made fashionable tours to foreign country and European beach resorts. So their casual styles, summer business suits and dinner jackets effected 20th men's fashion. Therefore America played an important role in casualization of men's fashion.

• Journal for History of Mathematics
• /
• v.20 no.1
• /
• pp.17-32
• /
• 2007

In this paper, I review the origins, activities, and influences on the future mathematical development of the Analytical Society of Cambridge. The story of the late 18th century Scotland mathematicians and the early 19th century Cambridge mathematician such as Woodhouse, and the Analytical Society's history show that the Analytical Society wasn't a completely new and reformative meeting. This article reveals that the new analytical studies developed characteristically in Britain's specific intellectual and social context of the late 18th century and the early 19th century.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.8 no.2
• /
• pp.205-216
• /
• 2000

The purpose of study examined of historical changes of western men's nightclothes from middle ages to the modern ages and analyzed functions and features of men's nightclothes. This study presented meaning and importance of men's nightclothes. The method of study researched the many literatures and internet sources. Until medieval age, men slept naked or in a day-shirt. In the 16th century, a nightshirt was worn in bed. A night-cap was usual, in rather more elaborate form, also worn by day in the house, and even outdoors. In the 17th century, nightshirt was elabrated with ruffles and lace. The nightshirts of 18th century, resembled the day-shirt except that it was slightly longer and fuller in cut. The turn of 19th century, men weared nightshirt with a high folding collar, one button and night-cap of jellybag shape. In the early 19th century, nightshirt had a plain turned-down collar, buttoned at the neck. A night-cap with colored tassel was usual. The middle of 19th century, a nightgown was reaching to the ankle. Pyjamas, in the 1890s, were steadily replacing the nightshirt, before long pyjamas had become generally accepted in place of the nightshirt. A pyjamas which preseverved his male dignity by giving him trousers. Man's ingenuity also modified his nigntclothes so that these took on sexual characteristic. In 20th century, the fabrics had become lighter in weight, and the choice of materials wider. By 1930s, nightclothes had become the man's most colorful garment.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.17 no.4
• /
• pp.90-106
• /
• 2013

This study investigated the development of eyeglasses and design transition in materials and types through literature survey. The scope of this study on the basis of the 15th century, for this study survey reaches from the 15th century to modern. The result of this study were as follows. Real magnifying glasses was first mentioned by the Arab physicist al-Hazen who was famous of his treatise on optics. The oldest documents which explicitly refer to the art of making lenses for eyeglasses and magnifying glasses were the Venetian artisans of 1300. In the 15th century someone thought to remedy the unstability of glasses by securing the bridge on the forehead. But it was only in the 17th century that someone contrived to stabilize the frame by strapping it on the face by means of fine cords that reached behind the ears. Eventually in the early years of the 18th century the English optician Edward Scarlett invented the rigid earpieces which solved once and for all the problem of holding the eyeglasses firmly in place. In the 19th century, eyeglasses' fashion were monocle and pince-nez. In the 20th century, various lenses and frames were appeared. Therefore eyeglasses to correct defective sight, sun-glasses, as well as a most succesful item among modern fashion accessories.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.23 no.4
• /
• pp.595-603
• /
• 2015

The influence of Japonism, which is the post-mid-$19^{th}$ century phenomenon of appreciating and preferring the Japanese style that manifested all across Western art, started to grow as a result of the active open-door policy of Japan at this time. As all areas of Japanese arts and culture, such as paintings, sculptures and theater plays, influenced Europe and America, this influence developed into a cultural phenomenon that was reflected even in fashion. The characteristic elements of the kimono first expanded from Paris and showed a similar silhouette to that of the traditional kimono in the early $20^{th}$ century, but towards the middle and the end of the century, kimono sleeves that were connected as one piece without a connecting seam line between the sleeve and bodice started to appear. The foundation of this research focuses on the design characteristics of kimono sleeves that can be seen in $20^{th}$-century fashion, and five varying kimono sleeve jackets and coats based on these formative characteristics were designed. Each design had a gusset design added, which improved the external and mobility problems inherent in kimono sleeve patterns, while at the same time serving as a proposal for new design element applications. Additionally, through various changes to and attempts at designs using the kimono sleeve as a limiting factor, new design possibilities were explored.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.4
• /
• pp.25-37
• /
• 1981

Art Nouveau style refers to the movement of art which was started in France and Belgium in the last decade of the 19th and the early years of the 20th century. The distinguishing characteristics of Art Nouveau style are the sensous sinuosity of its line, nervously undulating, curving over itself, rhythmical, flowing in endless patterns, which are inspired by animals and plants, specially by flowers, leaves, long stalks. The Art Nouveau style includes also the extreme simplicity of form, and asymmetric design. This new trend of art movement spread into architecture, furniture, wall papers, graphic design, accessories and textiles. In this paper, I tried to find out whether or not the Art Nouveau style had an effect on clothing. Because I believe clothing, like architecture, painting, and sculpture, is an Art form that derives from a particular set of cultural circumstances and reflects the needs and aspirations of the society for which it is created. Fashions in clothing over the last five thousand years have mirrorred the art form as well as the spirit. The result of this study shows that the Art Nouveau style made a lasting contribution to the modernism of clothing as well as architecture and interior design at the end of 19th century and the early years of the 20th century. The modernism of clothing appeared in the straight silhouette, asymmetric design, simple and light trimming, embroidery with Art Nouveau pattern, and stylized flower design in textile. Art Nouveau made a great contribution toward the modern clothing to have its liveliness and its harmonious relationship between clothing design and the use of materials.

• Parasites, Hosts and Diseases
• /
• v.61 no.2
• /
• pp.198-201
• /
• 2023

In the past decade, experts have conducted parasitological research on archaeological specimens in Korea to collect historical parasite infection data. In these studies, parasitologists successfully described the infection pattern of each parasite species in history. However, in the first half of the 20th century, archaeoparasitological reports have been scant. In 2021, we conducted a parasitological examination of a toilet-like structure that emerged in the early 20th century. This structure was built by stacking 2 wooden barrels; and in the study samples, we found ancient Trichuris trichiura, Ascaris lumbricoides (unfertilized), and Taenia spp. eggs and therefore proposed a higher possibility that the barrels could have been used as a toilet at the time. To understand how the antihelminthic campaign since the 1960s helped reduce parasite infection rates in Korea, more research should focus on early-20th-century toilet ruins.

• Proceedings of the Costume Culture Conference
• /
• 2006.09a
• /
• pp.93-94
• /
• 2006

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.8 no.2
• /
• pp.135-143
• /
• 2006

The definition of the 'Pocket', according to the Korean encyclopedia, is an accessory that a person puts in small belongings or money and carry on waist or holds with a hand. Since the pockets were not attached to the clothes at that period of time, the portable bag or pocket had been used without distinction of age or sex for carrying personal belongings. The pocket in France was also used in a similar manner, where it was used as a handbag to carry purse, comb, or a key by women during the middle ages. The pockets were decorated, made of quality material such as velvet, silk, or satin with splendid embroidery or beads. This study closely examines the history of the pocket from late 16th century around Renaissance to early 20th century in France and during the mid Cho-Sun dynasty in Korea and compares the different kinds of patterns, symbolism, and the purpose of the pockets. In addition, the relationships between the pockets, belongings, and ornament are examined as well by thoroughly investigating the unique characteristics of the pocket of each country.

• Korean Institute of Interior Design Journal
• /
• v.14 no.2 s.49
• /
• pp.83-94
• /
• 2005

20th century was the age of Modernism which was based on rational side of human mind. However, with the fall of Modernism, also came the fall of rationalism's dictatorship. Now, we see the pursuit and quest of irrational thinking as a new possibility of human expression which actually was already begun by Dada and Surrealism in early 20th century. It was facilitated by re-evaluation of Freud's psychoanalytic theory at the end of 20th century. This paper researches psychoanalytic approach applied to the analyses of unconscious human desires in art and design, especially its application to contemporary space design. These designs represent, without making any ethical evaluation, the fact that those unconscious desires are part of inborn human nature and the fact that 21st century is heading toward open society which embraces diverse values and possibilities. By analyzing irrational tendencies in contemporary space designs, this paper aims at proving the meaning and value for one of new directions in 21st century space design. First chapter is an introduction. Second chapter studies Freud's psychoanalytic theory. Third chapter examines the psychoanalytic methodologies with which unconscious desires are expressed in art and design. Fourth chapter classifies the types of subconscious desires expressed in contemporary space designs and analyzes their case studies. Fifth chapter is the conclusion.