• Cross-Cultural Studies
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• v.37
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• pp.131-156
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• 2014

This article attempts to explore the literature of Catherine the second, focusing on her comedies in the light of anti-freemasonry in the late 18th-centuryof Russia. Her main idea towards social morals was consistently expressed from in her early comedies during 1770s, such as 'Oh! times!'(1772), to her late counterparts during 1880s, such as so called 'anti-freemason trilogy,' which includes 'the deceiver'(1785), 'the deceived one'(1785) and 'Siberian shaman'(1786). By depicting antagonists-freemasons in her own trilogy, only as alchemists, shamans, fallacious chemists, hypocritical medical doctors, and so on, Caterine the second intended to undermine the mason influence against Russian Empire, which had ideationally attracted Russian nobles and intellectuals and furthermore to reinforce her political control over the intellectuals as well as the public. The above literacy attempts by Catherine can be said to aim to found morals of her own era through the utilization of social discourse, rather than through the political or governmental control.

• KIEAE Journal
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• v.9 no.2
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• pp.73-80
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• 2009

In the early twentieth century, many architects still practised eclectic design elements. Emergence of new building materials such as steel, concrete and glass were not yet found fresh roles in architectural design. It was Brussels that the use of modern materials gave rise to their new forms and gave influence to not only building skins but also spatial organization. Art Nouveau architecture is often seen as revolutionary and pioneering modern architecture against eclectic classicism prevalent in the 18th and 19th centuries. Despite the fact that some scholars point out that Art Nouveau is more a transient phenomenon than modern architecture proper, no one would deny that Art Nouveau carries a good deal of modern characteristics. This paper intends to show rather ambivalent perspectives upon Art Nouveau architecture. Although it insinuates overly dynamic nature in architectural languages, it does not hamper us from reading Art Nouveau as a vital component of modern architecture. Through a careful analysis of the early domestic designs of Victor Horta, it becomes evident that his work can provide modern architecture a meaningful alibi for its growth. Victor Horta's house design is well known to the public, both for his classical tastes and for its changing implementation. Horta's modern quality is never adequately recognized, partly due to his eye catching modern iron properties and sinuous ornamentation. This paper tries to offer an insight into the complicated stage set of the fin-de-$si{\grave{e}}cle$ through the work of Victor Horta whose influence has been immense in the making of modern architecture.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.35-49
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• 2016

Dopo was the clothing of the Joseon period, which had a strong value of Confucianism. Apart from the kings and princes, government officers and Confucian literati wore Dopo as their official clothing and the uniform. The basic form of Dopo had the straight collar similar to Jikryeong. The difference is the shape of a Mu, which was fixed inside or on the back section along the side line of the front section and made two flaps on the back section. The clothing found in the tombs of Bae Cheonjo (1532~?) are from the mid-16th century to the early 17th century with the clothing style of the early Joseon period. The outer collar of all clothing was the shawl collar except for the Sibok and the inner collar was sewn to this. Two items had square tray collars, which were folded in half and sewn inside in half. The sleeve had a straight inseam from the armhole and its end around the wrist was round and wide. The carp-shaped inseam of the sleeve and wide sleeve indicated a change of sleeve shape. The shapes of the collars and the wide overlapped section of the dual collars demonstrated the shapes of the initial outer robes. The man's outer coats with wide sleeves were mostly cotton-quilted clothing. As described above, this paper examines the basic shapes of outer robes including Sibok, Jikryeong and man's outer coats on the basis of the clothing and artifacts from the tomb of Bae Cheonjo (1532~?) and examined the shapes, composition and features of Dopo. This paper aims to improve awareness of the wisdom and spirit of ancestors in life hidden in the sewing of the three Dopo items and on the importance of historical research.

• Korean Journal of Oriental Medicine
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.17-24
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• 2012

Research on Seokgok(石谷), Lee Gyu Jun(李圭晙, 1855~1923)'s thought and medicine was progressed from various angles. There is no research on Chinese poem(漢詩) accounting for the half of his collection of literary works, "Seokgoksango(石谷散稿)" yet. Hence, the article reviewed concerns on his life and what life he lived as a Confusion(儒家) writer through his Chinese poem. Should read "Seokgoksango", Seokgok's spiritual orientation and attitude to life were found to have its core in the Confusion(儒家的), especially ethical(道學的) aspect. Seokgok's Chinese poem materialized his spiritual composition more, able to access up to general emotional state, representing concerns and frustration of intellectuals in the latter era of the Choson Dynasty. Anxiety consciousness(憂患) of patriotism and love of the people which traditional intellectuals implicated enough at the turbulent era of early modern time appeared strongly in his works. Also works seeking for devotion(歸依) toward the clean world(淸明世界) staring at the corrupt world losing the national sovereignty at the same time and the expansion(擴散) was able to be found many. The latter half of the 19th century and the early 20th century when Seokgok lived was the period of changeover in the history of civilization called intersection between traditional era and modern times. His Chinese poem showed traditional intellectuals' anxiety, frustration, conflict, and hope based on such times. Along with the status of an Oriental, medical doctor and thinker, up to discussion on the quality of a writer, the intensified research on him is expected.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.7
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• pp.32-46
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• 2015

Treasures patterns are simplified designs of vessels used in everyday life, which were symbols of luck. Treasures patterns on textiles are largely assorted into four groups: eight auspicious patterns of Buddhism, eight immortal patterns of Taoism, seven treasures patterns of King Chakravarti in the Buddhist Scriptures and normal treasures patterns. Among them normal treasures patterns are most commonly used. Records in the Joseon documents show these patterns as being composed of seven treasures patterns or eight treasures patterns. But observation of the actual relics show that these patterns ranged from four to ten patterns. Korean traditional textiles treasures patterns began to appear in Korea on the relics of the last of Goryeo period. They were used as sub-patterns among main patterns of dynamically rising cloud patterns with five heads. Treasures patterns in the early Joseon period were commonly used as sub-patterns, and cloud and treasures pattern were prime examples of this. In the 16th century, lotus vine pattern, small flower vine pattern, or small flower pattern were often used as main patterns and treasures patterns were regularly used as sub-patterns. The robe of the Great Monk of Seo San was unique, in that both main and sub patterns consisted of the treasures patterns. From the 17th century, treasures patterns began to be used as main patterns. For example, a relic with eight alternatively arranged treasures patterns were found. Though there were still some cases where the patterns were used as sub-patterns, they begin to appear bigger than the previous period and became similar to main patterns in size. In the 18th and 19th centuries, there were various cases where treasures patterns were combined with flowers, fruits, animals, and letter patterns and used as main patterns. And there are many different methods of representing and developing the patterns.

• Journal of Ginseng Culture
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• v.3
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• pp.90-118
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• 2021

Gaeseong fostered the conditions necessary for modern capitalism, as huge capital was accumulated through the cultivation and trade of ginseng, which were activities that flourished in the 18th century. During the Japanese colonial era, ginseng merchants were not simply limited to acquiring landowner capital from ginseng trade but actively converted such resource to productive and financial capital, thereby becoming modern entrepreneurs. Ginseng merchants led the joint management and investment of Gaeseong Electric Co., Ltd., Daehan Cheonil Bank, Gaeseong Brewing Co., Ltd., and Songgo Textile Company, founded in the early 20th century. They pursued corporate profits and, as leading individuals of society, spearheaded regional development by supporting educational and cultural projects in Gaeseong. These projects included the establishment of the Gaeseong Commercial School, the publication of Goryeo Times, and the operation of the Gaeseong Jwa Theater. Although liberal economics prioritized shareholder interest, the 21st century witnessed an emphasis on social responsibility among stakeholders asthe major purpose of enterprises. A trend that emerged was ESG (environment, social, governance) management, in which non-financial factors are valued more highly than financial performance. A successful business, which was denoted only by high profits in the past, is now defined by whether a company fulfills its social responsibility. In the early 20th century, the corporate activities of ginseng merchants in Gaeseong reflected entrepreneurship and stakeholder-centered ESG management, which later emerged as essential elements of modern business management. The modern management philosophy ahead of its times stemmed from the regionality of Gaeseong. The political discrimination against Gaeseong residents in the Joseon Dynasty precluded them from becoming government officers, and under a strict social hierarchy, yangban ("noblemen"), the intellectuals of the Joseon Dynasty, were forced to serve as merchants. Son Bong-sang and Kong Seong-hak, aside from being representative ginseng merchants, were both Confucian scholars and writers. The second and third generations of ginseng merchant families who had received higher education abroad returned to Gaeseong to carry on with their family businesses, then established modern companies with capital accrued from the ginseng industry. An analysis of the commercial activities of ginseng merchants in the early 20th century confirmed that these individuals were pioneering entrepreneurs who adopted the ESG management philosophy. In ginseng merchants, one sees a dimension of capitalism with a human face, as with ginseng thatsaves human life.

• Lingua Humanitatis
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• v.2 no.2
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• pp.267-282
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• 2002

For the effective study of Korean modernization from the 18th century to the present, three areas have been investigated in my paper: the age of dawn in recognizing the necessity of modernism, the era of experimentation from recognition to practice, and the development of modernism in literature: from the 1930s to the present. Through whole process of discussing those matters, Koreanity- identifying itself to be Korean - has been emphasized. While the so-called traditional values confronted with the whole turmoil of socio-political demolitions in the name of modernization, westernization, and culturalization, Korean intellectuals tried to emphasize how important it was to keep Korean identities, namely the Koreanity. Such examples can be seen in the activities of Northern School and Moderate School. Though Koreans had to have a short hair cut in contradiction with their traditional morality to be modernized/westernized/cultivated, it was a turning point for them to take a step toward the international world. During the period of Korean modernization through the impact of Western world, Korean language-hangul- has been cultivated to the highest level in comparison with two foreign languages: Japanese and English. Those Korean linguists who were familiar with these two languages made Korean grammar systematic and they understood the importance of preserving Koreanity in the course of pursuing modem western society. In this sense, Korean modernism is related to the cultural glocalism(globalism+ localism), not to the cultural globalism. Through the help of socio-political modernization, Korean literature in modernism has been full bloomed in the early years of 1930s. One of the leading poets was Sang Lee whose poetic heritage is inherited by those groups of 1950s and I 960s. Among many others, Chunsu Kim and Sunghun Lee were the main figures in realizing the fact the poetry is written in Korean which they considered the body, the soul, and the mother land.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.4
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• pp.412-423
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• 2016

This paper explores the possibility, and suggests an experimental procedure, of industrial application of traditional textile design techniques, such as hand silkprinting and natural dyeing. Theoretical and traditional background of this study is William Morris and his followers' Arts and Crafts Movement from the late 19th century to the early 20th century, which laid the philosophical as well as technical foundations of modern textile design tradition. Based on the basic understanding of the design philosophy, and starting from the design techniques of Morris and his successors, I made some experimental and systematic color plans reflecting and exploiting the physical traits and structure of jacquard woven silk material fabrics. And I applied hand silkscreen printing techniques on the jacquard silk fabrics of my own making, while testing various color combinations of natural dyes. After finishing final processing of design samples, I could get textile design products which met the criteria of my original expectation, i.e., eco-friendly and aesthetic design samples that can also be produced in automatized mass production system of contemporary textile industry. The conclusion of this experimental study is that I can expect the natural dyeing techniques, jacquard silk fabrics design techniques, silkprinting techniques, and the basic processes used in this study to be safely applied for contemporary commercial textile industry utilizing automatized silkscreen printing system and digital printing devices.

• Journal of Digital Convergence
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• v.18 no.5
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• pp.391-397
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• 2020

This article aims to introduce a representative case of convergence among art, technology and science, and look into the factors that contributed to its success. The focus is specifically brought to the cooperation between the Plantin Press and local painters in Antwerp in the Netherlands during the 16th century. The Plantin Press scored huge successes through collaboration with Flemish artists such as Rubens and Borcht. This helped the artists to use their talents in a new medium or to secure a job that appreciates their values. The Plantin Press outdid its competitors in the market through applying new techniques on its works. Great botany books also came out as a result of such convergence. The backdrop to the Netherlands appearing as the center of botanical studies in the 17th century is the concerted efforts of the painters that created quality illustrations and the publishers that knew how to use them efficiently.

• The Southeast Asian review
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• v.21 no.2
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• pp.155-182
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• 2011

The purpose of this paper is to examine the process of Islamization in Java, focusing on religious discourse among Muslim intellectuals. How Islamic tradition and knowledge have been perceived and utilized and how they have interacted with those of non-Islamic origin will be discussed. For this, three Islam-related books written in different phases of Islamization are to be analyzed: Babad Tanah Jawi compiled by Mataram court in the 17th century, Serat Cabolek written by a court poet in the late 18th or early 19th century, and Fikih Anti-korupsi published by reformist and scriptural organization of Muhammadiyah in 2006. Babad portrays conversion to Islam as a process which does not demand a dramatic outward change in religious practice. Scriptural tradition of Islam and the dichotomy between what is Islamic and what is not were not mentioned in order to explain conversion. Spiritual and mystical enlightenment was emphasized heavily, and for this, the importance of non-Islamic traditions was fully acknowledged. Serat tells us that this period was characterized by the surge of scriptural and shariah-minded Islam, maintenance of non-Islamic traditions, clashes between scriptural Islam and old religious traditions, and Javanese efforts to harmonize these. In Fikih, non-Islamic tradition is replaced by scriptural Islam and disappears totally. Interpretations based on the Scriptures, however, do not monopolize it and are used together with mode of analysis from the West. It is too much to call this 'intellectual syncretism', in that Islamic Scriptures and Western knowledge do not mix but stand side by side. Three books under examination reveal that the process of Islamization in Java has not been uniform. It has been conditioned and shaped by local socio-cultural and historical circumstances, where active engagement and intellectual exercise of Javanese Muslims have played key roles. Even Islamization in the last few decades is not an exception. The surge of scripturalism and fundamentalism does not simply bring about a move to Arabization. Interacting with local intellectual and socio-cultural milieu, this has produced a sort of intellectual hybridity, which is unique to Muslim society of Java.