• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.3
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• pp.462-468
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• 2014

This study investigates the dyeability of soybean protein fabric after dyeing with gallut. In this study, the colorants of gallnut were extracted with boiling water at $60^{\circ}C$ and 60min. Soybean protein fabric was dyed with extracted solution from gallnut according to concentration, temperature and time. After dyeing with gallut solution, dyeability (K/S) was obtained by CCM observation. Al, Cu and Fe were employed as a mordanting agents. Various color changing were produced by the interactions of mordants that were different from soybean protein fabric; however, Al mordant was not indicated as a variable color change. Fastness to washing and light were also investigated. Consequently, the dyeability of the soybean protein fabric dyed with gallut showed reasonable results at 100% o.w.f, $90^{\circ}C$, for 60min. Fastness to washing according to concentration indicated good result as more than grade (4-5) in general. Fastness to light was almost the same compared to fastness to washing at all concentrations. Fastness to washing according to mordants indicated good grade (4) in principle at Al, Cu, and Fe; in addition, fastness to light indicated a good grade too. Fastness to light also indicated the highest dyeability at Fe mordant. This study shows that gallut is a reasonable dyestuff to soybean protein fabric and that it is possible to manufacture a variety of products that use soybean protein fabric.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.471-482
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• 2016

This study investigated the characteristics of cotton production of Damyang-gun & Hwasun-gun, Yeongsan River compared with that of Gurye-gun, Seomjingang River in modern times. To do this, research method was both literature and fieldwork research, results were as follows. First, as for cotton fiber cultivation in Damyang-gun & Hwasun-gun, Chinese cotton (在來綿) has been cultivated during Japanese Colonial era unlike Gurye-gun. Especially, Yellow cotton (黃綿) has been cultivated in Hwasungun. Second, as for spinning in Damyang-gun, Hwasun-gun and Gurye-gun, some of cotton spinning process have been gradually changed to mechanization by market shop equipped with mechanized cotton gin and cotton whipping tool since Japanese colonial era. Third, the loom types also, like spinning tools, have been changed from the traditional Korean back-strap loom to the treadle loom in Damyang-gun, Hwasungun and Gurye-gun. Chemical dyeing with chemical dyestuff also has been done since Japanese Colonial era. Fourth, since the 1970s, the outputs of cotton production have been reduced in both Damyang-gun & Hwasun-gun. For Damyang-gun, this has been connected with bamboo craft since the Joseon Dynasty period. So, Damyang-gun has more concentrated on bamboo craft than cotton production. For Hwasun-gun, since Japanese Colonial era, sericulture has been very important. So, Hwasun-gun also has more concentrated on sericulture than cotton production. The main reason to discontinue cotton production in Damyang-gun, Hwasun-gun and Gurye-gun was related to the local choice like economic added value.

• Korean Journal of Agricultural Science
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.146-155
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• 1983

Fundamental study was carried out to elucidate the mechanisms of biological degradation of dyestuff in environments. A few bacterial strains which were capable of degrading amarnath were obtained from soil through an extensive screening program and identified by microbiolological properties. Conditions for bacterial growth and amaranth degradation were characterized and optimized, and the degradation products were identified. The results were as follows. 1. The most active strain A12-1 to be capable of degradation of amaranth was identified as Pseudomonas sp. 2. Optimal conditions for growth of the strain A12-1 were:$35^{\circ}C$ and pH 7.5, and growth was markedly increaesd by aeration. 3. Degradation of amaranth by the strain was accessed under similiar conditions for growth, however significantly inhibited when the culture was aerated. 4. Both bacterial growth and amaranth degradation were gradually decreased with increased concentration of amaranth in the culture. 5. Reaction of the crude enzyme from the strain A12-1 was optimal at $35^{\circ}C$ and pH 7.5 for degrading amaranth. 6. Sodium naphthionate and R-amino salt were found to be the products of amaranth degradation by the strain A12-1.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.11 no.3
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• pp.79-86
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to understand the dyeing properties and color analysis of fabrics knitted with ramie, cotton, wool and acrylic by using scoria and to analyze whether the knitted fabrics can be used for industrialization by measuring color fastness after and before sliver-nano process. The following is the conclusions. Firstly, when ramie fabric regarding cotton, wool and acrylic was dyed at the temperature of $50^{\circ}C$ for fifteen minutes by using 10, 25, 50, 100g/ $\ell$ of scoria, dyeing absorption gradually increased up to 50g/ $\ell$, and over the point of 50g/ $\ell$ it showed slow increase. Secondly, regarding saturation, among ramie fabric, wool, cotton and acrylic, wool appears as the lowest brightness. Therefore, it can be dyed with bright color and the highest value. In terms of the value of chromaticity, wool also emerges as the lowest brightness. On the contrary, acrylic showed the lightest red as it had the value of the smallest b. Cotton takes the lightest yellow as the b value of the cotton showed the smallest. Thus, scoria dyestuff is a material that showed strong red and yellow on knitted fabric mixed with wool that is the biggest a. b value. Thirdly, in terms of dyeing fastness, sunlight fastness did not show noticeable differences before and after silver-nano processes, but in terms of washing and friction fastness, the material processed by silver-nano indicated that all knitted fabrics are over 4-5 point. which means silver-nano process can be effective for the industrial applications. As mentioned above, as a result of dyeing knitted fabrics with scoria, this study found a possibility of dyeing in the fabric materials, and if there is deeper dyeing experiments, fastness experiments and speculations, it might be possible to be a big issue just like loess and charcoal.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.34 no.5
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• pp.283-292
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• 1996

This study examines the character of "Tencel" named as Ecology Fiber and investigates the fitness of it as the textile and the satisfaction in dress when its fastness is compared with that of Rayon classified into Celulose textile. Dye experiment selected 100% Tencel, Rayon for the samples, which were dyed into the direct dye and Turky Blue and Blue of the rective dye and were washed twelve times by the automatic washer. After that, the dye experiment examines the light, laundering, perspiration, rubbing and the composite fastness of the perspiration and hight in the lists of the dye fastness. The results are as follows: 1. The experiment of the color fastness, especially in T-blue of the direct dyestuff, requiring the twelve times-repeatedly-washing by the detergent says that the color fastness of Tencel is superior to that of the cellulose textile ; Rayon. 2. The experiment of the light fastness says that the fastness of Tencel is superior to that of Rayon. 3. The experiment of the laundering fastness says that all of Tencel, Rayon shows the excellent result in the direct dye than in the reactive dye. 4. The experiment of the rubbing fastness says that although Tencel, Rayon show the remarkable result in the desiccant experiment than in the humid one, the rubbing fastness of Tencel is superior to that of others. 5. The experiment of perspiration fastness says that Tencel, Rayon have the closely tightened tendency not to be altered through the acid and alkali perspirations. 6. The experiment of the composite fastness of perspiration and light indicates that the artifical perspirations, though the light lets the fastness of textiles weeken, do very slightly make them loosen, which does not offer the outstanding result. This whole result show that the fastness of Tencel is superior to that of Rayon. The Korean Fiber Enterprise in clothing should make the new and ecological fiber "Tencel" by means of the large amount of investment, and the technique of handing and controlling about it, considering that the dangerous needle of environmental pollution has been slackening the close-related ecological knots of the global environment. global environment.

• Archives of design research
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• no.16
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• pp.225-234
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• 1996

The purpose of this study is to provide and suggest useful data in use of kinds of violet that is resulted from general color images of violet. The origin, history, and general images of kinds of violet were studied, and were classified vased on documcntary reviews. Findings are as follows: 1) The kinds of violet were used purple, violet, mauva, and magenta in the order of appearance of its color names and the categories of violet had been extended from dark reddish violet to affilicated colors of bright violet by development in synthetie dyestuff. 2) The kinds of violet has neutral characters due to the combination of two extreme colors, red and blue, and thereby revealing voth attreibutes in terms of symbolic, emotional, and spychological features of colors. The positive images in kinds of violet can be classified as nobleness, holiness, mysteriousness, sleep/sedation, sensuality, femininity, fragrance, and the negatibely classified images are weakness, sadness, maelancholiness, death(for example, the mourner's gard in royal families), symbols of moral corruption, and superstition.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.7 no.5
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• pp.83-100
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• 2003

It has been known that the chitosan pre-treated fabrics can be dyed without the aid of mordanting process. It is due to the fact that chitosan treatment increases the dye uptake. However, the effect of chitosan on the dyeing mechanism has not been elucidated thus far. Following explanations have been presented regrading the action of the chitosan on the dyeing mechanisms: 1. Chitosan absorbs dyestuffs and facilitates dyeing since the chitosan itself has a good affinity toward dyestuffs. 2. Chitosan acts as a metallic mordant between the fiber molecule and dyestuff. 3. Fiber molecules and chitosan form a coordinate covalent bond. This study aims the quantitative investigation on the effect of the chitosan and the effect of sequence of the mordanting, pre-mordanting or post-mordanting, on the dyeing of the fabrics. Cotton fabrics and acylic fabrics were pre-treated with chitosan before dyeing with cochineal dyestuffs. Method 1: Fabrics were, firstly, mordanted with Al, Sn, Cu, and Fe; mordanted fabrics were, secondly, treated with chitosan; mordanted and chitosan-treated fabrics were, thirdly, dyed. Method 2: Fabrics were, firstly, treated with chitosan; chitosan-treated fabrics were, secondly, mordanted with Al, Sn, Cu, and Fe; these were dyed then. Method 2 gave distinguished specific color development with darker shade. Apart from this, chitosan-treated fabrics yielded darker shade compared to the pre-mordanted fabrics without chitosan-treatment.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.33 no.1
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• pp.31-39
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• 2021

In this study, the dyeing properties of supercritical fluid dyed nylon fabrics were investigated which use two types of dyes for dyeing nylon. For other dyeing conditions were referred to related literature, and dyeing was performed with different dyeing concentrations. Dyeability was confirmed through measurement of washing fastness and color coordinate, and a calibration curve of each dye was drawn up and the absorbance of the residual dye was measured to confirm the amount of residual dye and the dye exhaustion rate at the corresponding concentration. As a result of color difference measurement, the color intensity increased as the concentration increased, but the increase was insignificant at high concentration. This tendency was more obvious in C.I. Disperse Orange 155 than in C.I. Disperse Yellow 42. The dye absorption rate also decreases as the concentration increases, but at 0.85% o.w.f concentration, C.I. Disperse Yellow 42 was 97.29% and C.I. Disperse Orange 155 was 93.77%. For both dyes, the wash fastness dropped by 0.5 to 1 class from the sample that was dyed at a concentration of 0.5% o.w.f in the wash fastness test.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.32 no.4
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• pp.217-225
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• 2020

In this study, the dyeing characteristics of nylon fabric which is dyed with supercritical fluid were investigated. There were two dyes used in the dyeing experiment: C.I. Disperse Red 167 and C.I. Disperse Violet 93. Dyeing temperature, pressure, and leveling time were fixed at 110℃, 250bar, 60minutes, and the experiment was conducted with dyeing concentration of 0.1, 0.3, 0.5, and 0.85% o.w.f. The analysis of the experimental results was found out through the measurement of washing fastness and color coordinate. In addition, the calibration curve of each dye was drawn up and the amount of remaining dye was checked by measuring the absorbance of the residual dye. As a result of color difference measurement, as the concentration increased, the L⁎ value decreased and the K/S value increased. However, the increase in K/S value compared to the amount of input decreased as the concentration increased. The comparative experiment on the amount of residual dye(C.I. Disperse Red 167) in the pot showed that 99.14% of the amount was dyed at the concentration of 0.1% o.w.f, while it rapidly decreased to 77% at 0.85% o.w.f. C.I. Disperse Violet 93 dye also decreased from 0.5% o.w.f to 93.91%. In the washing fastness experiment of both dyes, the level of washing fastness began to decrease from samples dyed at 0.5% o.w.f. It may be because the simply absorbed dye was produced instead of completely being fixed in the amorphous region of the nylon fiber.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.35-47
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• 2013

We know that humans are able to live comfortably when there is a balance between the living environment that surrounds us and us. Clothing, one of the necessities of life, serves a dual purpose of functioning as protection for the body as well as providing visual satisfaction, and so is the most effective bonding mechanism. A different type of comfort that has been provided through industrialization and advancements in technology has resulted in pollution problems in the environment, and it has reached a point of seriously thinking about its effects. The biggest problems in environmental pollution are air pollution and waste disposal, and something that cannot be ignored is that environmental hormones and harmful heavy metals have been discovered in the synthetic dyes used in the clothing product, and not only are they harmful to the body, but they also have adverse effects on skin allergies such as atopic dermatitis. Its effects on clothing, especially underwear and baby products, can become a serious issue. The use of natural vegetable dye can be considered the basis for the traditional Korean dyeing process, however not all natural dyeing process can be thought of as traditional Korean dyeing. This is because natural dyeing used to be the most common method of dyeing before synthetic dyes came along and became the dye of choice for most clothing. Natural dyes are beneficial to the body, and the nature colors, achieved from the natural materials, relieve eye strains as well as have a healing effect for people who are suffering from psychological instability such as stress. However, the use of mordant in order to increase the fastness and get better color effects can lead to even more damage to the environment, and it cannot be a dyeing method that is good for the body. Traditional natural dyeing is different from regular natural dyeing because it uses colors that the Korean people can identify with and applies specific methods in order to achieve those colors. Even though experimental study with dyestuff and practical use of the dyeing methods for traditional Korean dyeing has been started(Soh, H., 1983) and has been ongoing, it is still not easy for regular people to use the method on their own. At the present time, natural dye materials are getting made and sold more than ever, but there is a lot of confusion among consumers regarding the difference between traditional Korean dyeing and natural dyeing, as companies are using the two terms interchangeably to market their natural dye products. So getting a better understanding of the characteristics of traditional Korean dyeing and traditional colors should be considered first priority at this time. The purpose of this thesis is to study the traditional Korean view of color, which developed the culture of traditional dyeing in Korea, and the characteristics of traditional Korean dyeing, a method that pursued achieving Korea's color through natural dyeing.