• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제7권5호
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• pp.542-546
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• 2005

This study was investigated to establish the optimum conditions of dyeing silk fabric with Brassica campestris. This experiment was done under different dyeing conditions of dye concentration, dyeing temperature, dyeing time, dyeing repeating times, and mordants which were treated pre, syn, and post methods. The effects of dyeing conditions and mordanting were evaluated in terms of dyeaffinity(K/S value) and CIE-Lab color factors. Also, the effect of mordanting on color fastnesses was assessed. The dyeaffinity increased remarkably as dye concentration increased up to 200% owf. The dyeaffinity increased continuously with dyed temperature and reached dyeing equilibrium at $80^{\circ}C$. The maximum dyeaffinity was observed at 30minutes of dyeing time. In the relationship between the K/S value and dyeing repeating times, the K/S value became higher as repeating time was increased. The changes of surface color and colorfatness of dyes were not increased greatly on all mordanting states. The extracts of Brassica campestris produced mainly yellow color in silk fabric. The antimicrobial activity existed slightly as the ratio of 22.7%.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제15권1호
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• pp.156-162
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• 2013

For the development of high quality textiles, silk fabrics were dyed repeatedly with persimmon juice by padding mangle. We evaluated the mechanical properties and hand value by Kawabata Evaluation system for dyed silk fabrics. The results obtained from this study were as follows. With the increase of repeating padding times of dyeing, the linearity load-extension curves of the silk fabrics were increased; however, the tensile resilience of fabrics decreased. The hysteresis values of shear force were increased without significant change of shear stiffness. The coefficient of friction values were also decreased and geometrical roughness values were increased. The silk fabrics dyed with persimmon juice had shown the thickness and weight grow as the number of padding increases. The hand values of silk fabrics which were classified into 6 items in the Kawabata Evaluation System, were evaluated as repeating times of dyeing with persimmon juice. The hand values of Koshi(stiffness) and Hari(anti-drape stiffness) were increased, whereas Shinayakasa (flexibility with soft feeling) and Fukurami(fullness and softness) were decreased by dyeing with persimmon juice. However there was no significant change in hand values according to repeating padding times of dyeing.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제24권8호
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• pp.1146-1154
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was to investigate the antimicrobial activity, antimutagenic and anticancer effects and dyeing properties of the fermented indigo extract. The methanol extract of fermented indigo showed a strong inhibition effect on Trich. mentagrophytes and antimutagenic activities against aflatoxin B$_1$(AFB$_1$) in the Ames test using Salmonella typhimurium TA 100. We also found in vitro anticancer effects of the methanol extract of fermented indigo and it was evaluated by using Clone M-3 mouse melanoma cells and A431 human epidermoid carcinoma cells and exerted little cytotoxity against 3T3-L1 embryo fibroblast cell. In the relationship between the K/S values of cotton and silk fabrics dyed with fermented indigo and dyeing repeating times, the K/S values became higher as the repeating times were increased. The K/S values were high when the fabrics were dyed at low temperture. The K/S values of cotton fabrics were higher than those of silk fabrics. Changes of surface color of silk fabrics were higher than those of cotton fabrics after water fastness test, laundering, irradiation and treatment of acidic and alkaline perspiration.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제16권5호
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• pp.791-799
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• 2014

For development of dyeability, the rayon fabrics were dyed repeatedly with persimmon juice by padding mangle. The merit of padding-based dyeing was easier color reproduction over traditional hand dyeing where various colors and color fastness to light and laundering are hard to obtain. We evaluated the mechanical properties and hand value by Kawabata Evaluation system for dyed rayon fabrics. The results obtained from this study were as follows. With the increase of repeating padding times of dyeing, the linearity load-extension curve and tensile energy per unit length of the rayon fabrics were increased, but the tensile resilience of fabrics were decreased. The value of shear stiffness and shear hysteresis were increased. Also compression resilience and linearity of compression thickness were increased. The rayon fabrics dyed with persimmon juice had shown the thickness and weight increase as the number of padding increase. As repeating times of dyeing with persimmon juice were increased, among the 6 hand values, the item of koshi(stiffness) and Hari(anti-drape stiffness), fukurami(fullness and softness) were increased. while Shinayakasa (flexibility with soft feeling) and Shari(crispness) were greately decreased. The amount of coated persimmon juice on the surface of the fabric was gradually increased as the padding times of dyeing.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제24권4호
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• pp.296-304
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• 2012

For development of dyeability, the cotton fabric was dyed repeatedly with persimmon juice by padding mangle. We evaluated the mechanical properties and hand value by Kawabata Evaluation System, and observed the change of surface morphology. The results obtained from this study were as follows. With the increase of repeating padding times of dyeing, the linearity of load-extension curve and tensile energy per unit length of the cotton fabric were increased, but the tensile resilience of fabric was decreased. The value of shear stiffness and shear hysteresis were increased. Also compression resilience and linearity of compression thickness curve were increased. The cotton fabric dyed with persimmon juice had shown the thickness and weight increase as the number of padding increase. As repeating times of dyeing with persimmon juice were increased, among the 6 hand values, the item of stiffness, anti-drape stiffness, fullness and softness were increased, while flexibility with soft feeling and crispness were greatly decreased. The amount of coated persimmon juice on the surface of the fabric was gradually increased as the padding times of dyeing. And cotton fabrics were dyed evenly with persimmon juice by padding mangle.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제12권2호
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• pp.224-232
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• 2010

The natural dyeing of fabrics with persimmon juice(astringent persimmon, sweet persimmon, astringent and sweet persimmon mix) was investigated. After dyeing of cotton and silk fabrics with persimmon juice, we evaluated the dyeability of persimmon juice, the observation of fabric surface with high magnification video microscope, physical properties and color fastness with the conditions of repeating times of dyeing and variables of mordants. The results obtained from this study were as follows: The fabrics dyed with astringent persimmon have shown the highest color difference, while the fabrics dyed with sweet persimmon and the fabrics dyed with astringent and sweet persimmon mix have shown similar color differences. With the increase of repeating times of dyeing, the brightness of fabric decreased. However, $a^*$ value increased gradually, so that it became dark brown color. The $a^*$ and $b^*$ values of dyed fabrics with Fe-mordant have dropped significantly, so that they have shown achromatic colors. But the fabrics treated with other mordants have shown yellowish brown colors. On the surface of the fabrics, threads were bonded together by the viscosity of persimmon juice. Regardless of the types of persimmon juice, stiffness was increased after dying, while crease resistance was decreased. The water repellency of silk fabrics were improved than cotton fabrics after dyeing with sweet persimmon juice, but in case of cotton, it hasn't changed. Washing fastness was improved with the EM(Effective Microorganism)-fermented liquid treatment, and rubbing fastness of two fabrics was better in dry condition than in wet condition.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제22권8호
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• pp.1011-1019
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• 1998

The natural dyestuff(squid ink) was manufactured from squid ink by boiling in 0.1% NaOH solution and powdering in freeze dryer. Cotton, wool, silk and nylon fabrics were dyed under several conditions using the manufactured squid ink to investigate the dyeability and color fastness. Dyeing was operated in acidic dyebath of pH 4 because the squid ink is anionic. Dyeabilities on wool, silk and nylon fabrics were good, especially silk fabrics were dyed deeper than others because of being amine group. But dyeability on cotton fabrics was low and developed with chitosan treatment. All the dyed fabrics showed excellent in color fastness to crocking and laundering. Also light fastness of them were excellent except nylon. The light fastness of dyed-nylon fabrics was as poor as grade 1, but they could be improved to grade 4 by aftertreatment with gallicacid. Useing the natural dyestuff-squid ink powder, we could execute whenever we want to dye fabrics in the adequate concentration. Dyeabilities were developed according to repeating times of dyeing and the increased dye concentration. We could recycle the wasting sources.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제22권2호
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• pp.365-374
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• 2013

The purposes of this study were to evaluate the color characteristics and color sensibility of mulberry/cotton blended fabrics dyed with indigo, the natural dye, and analyze effects of them on color preferences. The values of CIE $L^*$, $a^*$, $b^*$ $C^*$, h were calculated for the color characteristics of indigo-dyed fabrics, and their hue, value, and chroma were calculated according to the Munsell color system. Fifty male and female college students evaluated the color sensibility of nine types fabrics dyed with indigo on a seven-point scale. The data were analyzed by descriptive statistics, factor analysis, Kruscal-Wallis test, correlation analysis, and regression analysis. The mulberry/cotton blended fabrics naturally dyed with indigo showed the characteristics of PB color tones, low value, and low chroma. The color sensibilities of fabrics dyed with indigo were classified into four factors: 'classic', 'sporty', 'elegant' and 'natural'. There were significant differences according to the fibers and the repeating times of dyeing in the color sensibility for the fabrics. Cotton fabrics were evaluated to be more classic, sporty, elegant, and natural than the mulberry/cotton blended fabrics, and the deeper the color, the more classic, sporty, and elegant the fabric was evaluated. The students preferred the indigo dyed fabrics which have more classic, sporty, and natural sensibility. There were significant relationships between the color sensibilities and colorimetric properties of the fabrics dyed with indigo. The color preferences of the dyed fabrics with indigo were found to be influenced by the 'classic', 'sporty', 'natural' of color sensibility.

• 복식
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• 제4권
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• pp.13-24
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• 1981

The color yellow was considered from ancient time to the Chosun Dynasty as the central color. Thus, this color became the royal color for the costumes in the palace. It is generally known to usthat the color yellow was controled in use both for the general public and in the royal palaces. However, in the later part of Chosun Dynasty, the color yellow was used not only for the king's costumes but also used for women's tops and for the linings of clothing. Especially, in some of the costumes that belonged to the later period of the Chosun Dynasty, we can still see lots of bright yellow tops. Also there are many green dyed official robes and various costumes for women. It is a true fact that people could not derive the color green from the plants as they did with yellow. The only way they could make the color green was to mix indigo and yellow together. By repeating the difficult process of making various dyes constantly during many centuries, the Korean people developed the marvelous technique of making natural color. Those plants used to make the color yellow are ; Gardenia, Phellodendron amurense, Turmeric, Coptis, Safflower, Arthraxon hispidus, Styphnolobium japonicum. While synthetic dye causes pollution, natural coloring by plants is as safe and useful as the color itself is lovely. Yet it is tragic to know that this traditional culture of making beautiful natural colors was cut off. There is no way to know today the traditionally correct method to derive colors from the plants. Therefore, it is our aim and challenge to find out the original way to dye and develop it and preserve it as our non-polluted folk art. In regard to natural dyeing, we must say that is very difficult to prepare and preserve natural dyes. In the first place, people had to get the right plants at an appropriate time. Then they could not keep those plants too long. Finally, much depended upon the mordant as well as various conditions and dyeing procedures. All those things influenced greatly the quality of color, some times producing a very pretty color and other times a very dull one. It is very appropriate that the natural dye art should be recognized and appreciated anew by Korea since it provides satisfaction to historical and folk artistic demands as well as to those of fashion conscious modern society for high quality consumption items. We propose two stages of development. The first stage is to explore native dye plants and encourage their cultivation. The second stage is to extract from the plants desirable dye which will enhance national culture.