• Journal of Drive and Control
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• v.15 no.3
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• pp.43-48
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• 2018

The hydraulic control valve, used in the CPB (cold-pad-Batch) cold dyeing system, passes through a pressurized material that absorbs the dye. The hydraulic control of the hydraulic control panel shall be driven in a uniform and precisely controlled manner, as it interferes directly with the dyschromatism. In this study, an acceleration test model was employed to verify the durability of the hydraulic control of the hydraulic control panel, which was manufactured by the scenic model, and the pre-roll angle was analyzed before the performance of acceleration test. Based on the change in the amount of deformation of the padder roll the durability of the padder roll was analyzed along with verification of the durability of the skin and the rubber coating in contact with the fabric. Furthermore, the accelerated test method used for hydraulic controlled multi-cell padder rolls was verified.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.10 no.4
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• pp.433-440
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• 2002

Natural gardenia and Japanese pagoda tree have been known as them of the most widely used yellow vegetable dyes. Cotton and silk fabrics(KS K 0905) were chosen as specimens. Those were dyed with natural gardenia and Japanese pagoda tree. The conditions of dyeing were varied according to the kinds of mordants, using mordants or not and the concentrations of the natural dyes. Sn, Al, Fe and Cu were chosen for the mordants. 5%(owf), 10%(owf), 15%(owf) and 20%(owf) were used as for the concentration of the natural dyes. The color differences were measured by the Spectrometer(UV-VIS-NIR) before and after dyeing. The results are as follows: 1. Deeper colors were proportionately shown up to the concentration of the natural dye. 2. Silk was shown the higher dye affinity than the cotton at the same concentration of the dye. 3. The color difference between the Sn-mordanted specimens and the Al-mordanted specimens were significant. When the concentration of the dye increased, the colors got darker, specially in b* value. 4. The color difference between the Fe-mordanted specimens and the Cu-mordanted specimens were significant in L* value and b* value. 5. The deeper or lighter yellow were controllable under the concentration of the natural dye and the mordants. 6. The most effective and the economic concentration of the natural dye was 10% owf through the experiments.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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• 2011.11a
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• pp.62-62
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• 2011

현재 다운방한 용도에 사용되는 직물 트랜드는 경량화 및 박지화 추세에 있으며, 국내외 유명 브랜드에서 사용되는 스포츠웨어 직물소재의 대부분이 이러한 제품으로 판매가 이루어지고 있다. 현재, 국내외 다운방한용에 사용되는 원단은 겉감이외에 다운 세기방지용 안감직물을 사용하여 다운이 빠져나오지 않도록 하고 있음. 그러나, 최근 겉감으로 사용하여 다운이 세지 않고 매우 가벼우면서 Packable 원단개발이 요구되고 있을 뿐만 아니라, 다운방한직물에 요구되는 성능에 만족하거나 성능이 향상된 고기능 원단개발이 요구되고 있다. 이러한 다운방한용 직물은 다운의 내구성 및 지속성 측면에서 매우 많은 기능이 요구되고 있으며 현재 국내에서 사용하고 있는 다운방한용 직물은 다운커버직물을 사용하거나 코팅에 의해 다운세기 방지기능을 강제로 발현시키고 있다. 그러나 그 직물은 경량화 되어가고 있기 때문에 다운커버 직물을 사용하지 않으면서부터 다운이 세는 문제점, 그리고 공기투과 및 투습이 제대로 되지 못하는 기능성의 문제점, 경량화와 더불어 인열강력이 약하여 잘 찢어지는 문제점, 인열강력의 물리적 특성을 높이고자 코팅을 하게되면 기능성 및 감성이 더욱 나빠지는 문제점이 나타나게 되어 다운 방한용 직물은 큰 문제점이 되고 있다. 이에 겉감만으로도 다운방한용도에 적합한 고감성 및 기능성을 가진 경량직물 개발을 위해 고밀도 제직 및 설계 기술, 최종 염색가공 및 후가공 공정까지의 공정내(內) 간(間)연계기술을 연구하였다.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.29 no.4
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• pp.231-238
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• 2017

There are many kinds of elements and processes for the development of high quality bedding products like fiber, high-temperature heat treatment, dyeing process, tenter drying with softening agent and multiple final finishing. Especially we examined the mechanical characteristic properties of fabrics according to different yarn types. The critical physical properties of the yarn consisting the pile knitted fabrics were obtained for the development of the hi-grade bedding items. The material property and the exhaustion behaviour of the developed pile knitted fabrics composing of different yarns were measured and observed. The physical properties of the developed fabric were evaluated through the material property analysis of the yarn, the physical nature of the pile knitted fabrics and the data of the exhaustion performance; tensile strength, tensile elongation, tearing strength, cross section of yarn types, dyeing properties etc. And then high-class of bedding items were knitted using the double raschel machine to make the pile knitted fabrics.

• Composites Research
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• v.31 no.6
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• pp.317-322
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• 2018

In various industry, the composite is tried to be applied to products and thermoplastic based composite is in the spotlight because this composite can be recycled. The use of continuous fiber thermoplastic (CFT) method increased gradually than long fiber thermoplastic (LFT). In this study, tensile, flexural, and impact test of different array types of glass fiber (GF)/thermoplastic composites were performed to compare with GF array. Impregnation property between GF mat and thermoplastic was determined using computed tomography (CT). At CFT method, thermoplastic film is not wet into GF roving and many voids are appeared into composite. This phenomenon affects to decrease mechanical properties. Plain pattern GF mat was the best mechanical and impregnation properties that distance between two roving was set closely to $100{\mu}m$.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.35 no.1
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• pp.1-10
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• 2019

This study provides a comprehensive evaluation of general characteristics of sized silk fabrics for the painting purpose. Two particular types of silk fabrics used for painting background were compared: a recreation of historical material and a mass produced material of present day. The sizing process made the surface characteristics of the silk fabrics more suitable for painting. The dyeing properties of the fabrics were related to the surface area of the fabrics, and had no significant effect on their mechanical properties. The antibacterial activity of the tannin-based natural dyestuffs were maintained after the sizing. The performance assessment by the KES-FB system showed that the fabrics are more prone to deteriorate after the sizing because the glue layer receives the most of the physical stresses.

• Bulletin of the Korean Chemical Society
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• v.25 no.9
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• pp.1361-1365
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• 2004

Solvatokinetic and solvatochromic behavior of bis(indolinobenzospiropyranyl) sulfide derivatives 1a-1c have been studied in various solvents. The marked negative solvatochromism is exhibited for 1a and 1b in the whole region of solvent polarity examined. Whereas, it is found only in the polar solvent region ($E_T$ > 37) for 1c. The sensitivity order to the solvent media (slope values) is 1a > 1b > 1c. The branched linear plot with a zero slope was shown for the most sterically-hindered compound 1c in the less polar-solvent region (($E_T$ < 37). The biphasic plot is indicative of dual mechanistic process, i.e., a transition state with increased zwitter-ionic character in more polar solvents and electrocyclic process with an isopolar transition state in less polar solvents.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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• 2012.03a
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• pp.107-107
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• 2012

3종 복합소재인 양모와 나일론, 레이온의 염색공정은 먼저 알칼리 욕에서 반응성염료로 레이온을 염색한 후, 산성욕에서 산성염료로 양모와 나일론을 염색하는 것이 일반적이다. 그런데 양모, 나일론, 레이온은 알칼리에 민감하므로 면 염색 시 적용되는 강알칼리인 수산화나트륨을 사용하면 섬유의 취화로 인하여 강도와 촉감저하 등의 문제가 발생하게 된다. 따라서 본 연구에서는 알칼리 중 탄산나트륨과 중탄산나트륨을 사용하여 염료를 투입하지 않고 염색공정을 거친 후 백도와 인장강도를 측정하여 황변 및 강도 변화 여부를 알아보았다. 레이온 70%, 양모 19%, 나일론 11%의 혼용율을 가지는 전처리 된 편물(130$g/m^2$, 32 inch, 18 gauge)에 탄산나트륨(시약 1급) 20g/l과 중탄산나트륨(시약 1급) 20g/l 각각을 투입하고 반응성염색공정($60^{\circ}C$, 60 min)으로 처리한 경우와 반응성 염색 후 산성염색공정($98^{\circ}C$, 60 min)으로 처리한 경우로 나누어 측색을 통해 백도와 L, a, b값을 측정하고 KS K 0521에 따라 인장강도 시험을 실시하였다. 그 결과, 탄산나트륨 투입시 백도 값이 중탄산나트륨에 비해 10% 정도 낮아지고 L, a, b값도 상대적으로 yellow 방향으로 이동해 있는 것으로 나타났다. 이것은 황변이 일어남을 의미하며 육안으로 확인하였다. 또한 인장강도 측정결과를 통해 소다회 처리 시 중조에 비해 30% 정도의 강도 저하가 일어남을 확인할 수 있었다. 그러나 반응성염색 후 산성염색을 거치게 되면 황변과 강도 저하 현상이 회복되는 경향을 나타내었다. 즉, 천연/나일론 편물을 반응성염색 시 알칼리로 탄산나트륨을 사용하면 염색공정 상에서 중탄산나트륨에 비해 황변이 일어나 염료 고유의 색상 발현에 영향을 줄 수 있고 강도 또한 30% 정도 저하되지만, 후에 산성염색 공정을 거치면 산 조건과 욕중 효과를 통해 일부 개선됨을 확인하였다. 이와 별도로 이번에는 시판되는 반응성염료 5종과 산성염료 3종을 조합하여 탄산나트륨과 중탄산나트륨 투입에 따른 염색실험을 실시하고 측색(DataColor SF600 광원D65, Strength)을 통해 염착량을 비교하였다. 그 결과, 중탄산나트륨으로 염색하면 탄산나트륨에 비해 모두 염착량이 저하되었으며, 염료의 구조적 차이와 컬러별로도 그 차이는 다양하였다. 그 중 저온에너지형 반응성염료는 탄산나트륨 투입에 비해 47~60% 정도로 가장 양호하였으며, 일부 반응성염료는 20%까지 떨어지는 값을 나타내었다. 이것은 탄산나트륨보다 중탄산나트륨의 알칼리 정도가 낮으므로 반응성염료의 염착이 적은 것으로 생각되며, 저에너지형 반응성염료의 경우에는 낮은 온도나 알칼리 조건에서도 상대적으로 높은 고착률을 나타내므로 적절한 반응성염료의 선택을 통해 그 차이를 극복할 수 있을 것으로 사료된다. 이상의 결과를 통해 탄산나트륨과 중탄산트륨의 알칼리 정도가 강도와 염착량에 미치는 영향의 차이를 고려하여 최적의 현장 처방을 선정해야 함을 알 수 있었다.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.3
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• pp.61-73
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• 2002

The purpose of this study lies in pursuing the unique plastic arts with the orchid motif which has the graceful colors and a variety of shapes beauty. Another aspect of this study intends to crease the modern costume design with the high added value by expressing the texture according to the material and tissue development for the continual improvement and promotion of the modern costume design in the handicraft art area. The results through the theoretical survey and the work production are as follows : First, the orchid which has the various shapes and colors provides the designers with the unique plastic arts and the possibilities for the unlimited expressions as the design motives. Second, we can see the creation of cubic plastic beauty in the moving line, as the material which has the flexible and brilliant shape fixation, used for expressing the shape beauty of the orchid. Third, this study reveals the extension of expression areas as a characteristic of the plastic arcs by applying handicraft techniques such as dyeing, corded tuck, flounce, crochet, weaving, beads embroidery, and art flower to the costumes for developing the unique material and texture. Finally, the possibility is suggested that the desires of the moderns searching for their own individualities can be met by creating the costumes with the added vague as the exposure of esthetic consciousness through the handicraft expression techniques.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.54 no.1
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• pp.52-69
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• 2021

The transcriptions of Buddhist sutra in the Goryeo Dynasty are more elaborate and splendid than those of any other period and occupy a very important position in Korean bibliography. Among them, the transcriptions made on indigo paper show decorative features that represent the dignity and quality that nobles would have preferred. Particularly, during the Goryeo Dynasty, a large number of transcriptions were made on indigo paper, often in hand-scrolled and folded forms. If flexibility was not guaranteed, the hand-scrolled form caused inconvenience and damage when handling the transcription because of the structural limitations of the material that is rolled up and opened. It was possible to overcome these shortcomings by changing from the hand-scrolled to the folded form to obtain convenience and structural stability. The folded form of the transcription utilizes the same principle as the folding screen, so it is a structure that can be folded and unfolded, and it is made by connecting parts at regularly spaced intervals. No matter how small the transcription is, if it is made of thin paper, it is difficult to handle it and to maintain its shape and structure. For this reason, the folded transcription was usually made of thick paper to support the structure, and the cover was made thicker than the inner part to protect the contents. In other words, the forded form was generally manufactured to suit the characteristics of maintaining strength by making the paper thick. Because a large amount of indigo paper was needed to make this type of transcription, it is assumed that there were craftsmen who were in charge only of dark dyeing the papers. Usually, paper dyeing requires much more dye than silk dyeing, and dyeing dozens of times would be required to obtain the deep indigo color of the base of the transcription of Buddhist sutra in the Goryeo Dynasty. Unfortunately, there is no record of the Goryeo Dynasty's indigo blue paper manufacturing technique, and the craftsmen who made indigo paper no longer remain, so no one knows the exact method of making indigo paper. Recently, Hanji artisans, natural dyers, and conservators attempted to restore the Goryeo Dynasty's indigo paper, but the texture and deep colors found in the relics could not be reproduced. This study introduces the process of restoring indigo paper in the Goryeo Dynasty through collaboration between dyeing artisans, Hanji artisans, and conservators for conservation of the transcription of Buddhist sutra in the late Goryeo dynasty, yielding a suggested method of making indigo paper.