• 패션비즈니스
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• 제7권3호
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• pp.36-44
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• 2003

Chitosan treatment of textile fabrics has been studied to improve fabric characteristics and functions. Natural dyestuffs have been more actively employed in environment-conscious finishing products. In this study, chitosan treated cotton and nylon fabrics were prepared for dyeing with a few natural dyestuffs. These were Caesalpina sappan, Gardenia jasminoides, and cochineal in the form of powder. Hand-related physical and mechanical properties and luster characteristics were examined using the KES-FB series instruments and a set of luster measuring equipment. The chitosan treatment seemed to be more effective in terms of increasing stiffness for cotton fabric. Since cotton fibers have more -OH groups in the molecules, they provide more linkage sites with the chitosan than the nylon 6 fibers do.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제30권12호
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• pp.1730-1736
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• 2006

의복재료로서 한지를 더 효율적으로 사용하기 위해, 직접염료를 이용하여 한지를 염색하였다. 한지의 주성분은 면, 마와 같은 셀룰로오스이지만, 많은 불순물을 포함하고 있고, 섬유제품과 내부구조와 표면구조가 다르므로, 다른 염색거동을 보일 수 있다. 또, 물을 흡수하면 한지의 물성은 크게 저하하므로, 염색 과정에 의해 강도가 변화될 가능성이 있다. 따라서, 본 연구에서는 직접염료를 이용한 한지의 염색특성을 셀룰로오스 섬유인 면, 마와 비교하여 고찰하고, 염색에 따른 인장강도 변화를 살펴보았으며, 염료의 물에 의한 블리딩 및 일광 견뢰도를 평가하였다. 직접염료로 한지를 염색할 때, 한지는 $25^{\circ}C$에서 최대흡진율을 보인 반면, 면과 저마는 $60^{\circ}C$에서 최대흡진율을 보였으며, 염색 후, 한지의 인장강도는 감소하였다. 낮은 온도에서 염색하였을 때 블리딩이 컸고, 염색한 한지의 K/S 값이 크면 블리딩 이 커지는 경향을 보였다. 직접염료로 염색한 한지의 일광견뢰도는 면, 마에 비해 떨어지지 않았다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제30권2호
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• pp.255-265
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to examine the dyeing properties of four kinds of composite yams that were twisted in different processes. The composite yarns consist of acetate and functional polyester in ratio of 70 : 30. The composite yams were dyed at 100$^{circ}C$ and 125$^{circ}C$ using three types of dyes, disperse dyes for acetate fiber, PET fiber and PET-acetate blended fiber, in the three primary colors. The exhaustion($\%$) and K/S value were observed for each case. Also the effects of four different twisting processes to dyeing properties and physical properties were examined. Regardless of twisting methods, the composite yarns that were dyed at 125$^{circ}C$ had higher exhaustion($\%$) than those were dyed at 100$^{circ}C$ with all three types of dyes; However, tendency of the K/S value after reduction cleaning process was measured at 100$^{circ}C$ and the value measured 125$^{circ}C$ had a great difference with disperse dyes for acetate and dyes for PET. The difference of the K/S values of composite yarns, when dyed at 100$^{circ}C$ and 125$^{circ}C$ with disperse dyes for PET-acetate blended fiber, was almost negligible. According to twisting methods K/S values were in the following order: AP1 > AP3 > AP4> AP2. This means that AP1, treated at 220$^{circ}C$, had the highest K/S value and K/S value becomes higher as the yam is higher twisted and becomes lower as lower twisted. On the other hand, the dry shrinkage and wet shrinkage showed low shrinkage rate when the twist was high and steam setting temperature was high.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제12권5호
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• pp.273-279
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• 2000

Interlace textured yarn was developed in order to increase weaving process efficiency. Today, interlace texturing is very useful method of manufacturing the high added value compound yarns for new synthetic fabrics. In this research, new silky type high added value compound yarns were. manufactured by interlace texturing technology and tested their properties. The object of this research is to investigate the relationship between interlace textured yarn properties and processing parameters that is air pressure, yarn tension and take-up speed. The original filament yarns used were TTD(Thick & Thin Semi-Dull) 110d/72f and SCD(Semi-Dull Cation Dyeable) 75d/36f. 27 specimens were manufactured and tested for their physical properties-nip density, tensile properties, multi-step shrinkage test and surface structure by SEM. The air pressure was main process condition to change properties of interlace textured yarns. And interlace textured process had influence on weaving preparation process, weaving, knitting and so on. It has some influence on shrinkage properties of dyeing and finishing processes.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제9권2호
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• pp.85-92
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• 2007

This study focused on bean-juice treatment method which have dyeing property to indigo, yellow soil, sappan wood, cochineal and also on the possibility of applying to mordanting. This is different from the active mordanting using chemicals. Natural mordants with development of dyeing are not harmful, also are the medicines for disease. Limestone and ash neutralize the acidic soil. bean-juice protein adhere to cellulose surface and change the physical properties of protein so that coloring of dye is better than before and film non-soluble in water is made. Therefore the color made from bean-juice process lasts after washing. This study try to show one of the ways to improve the current method using the heavy metal which can have bad effects for environment and human being. Bean-juice(raw bean, heated bean) treatment method can be the way to fix the natural dyeing problem of bad dyeing. Bean-juice had been treated under various condition with pre-treatment, post-treatment and raw bean, heated bean. Following results are obtained in this study. In the case of Indigo dyeing, pre-treatment of heated bean shows the biggest difference of color. In the case of yellow soil dyeing, pre-treatment of raw bean-juice shows the biggest gap of color. Pre-treatment of heated bean in sappan wood dyeing case and post-treatment of raw bean show bigger color difference than pre-treatment of raw bean. In cochineal dyeing, raw bean pre-treatment shows the biggest color difference.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제14권6호
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• pp.328-334
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• 2002

Nylon 6 staple ultramicrofiber(UMF, 0.074) and regular staple fiber (Regular, 2.0d) were annealed at In, 130, 160 and $180^\circ{C}$ under tension free for 10 min and U min. The treated fibers were dyed with Acid Red 18 and Blue n3. They were adjusted at PH 5.0 of dye bath in buffer solution of $CH_3COOH/CH_3/COONa(0.1mo1/1)$. Liquor ratio was kept at 1000:1. Dyeing rate of UMF annealed at $100^\circ{C}$ was decreased, but was increased for regular nylon. Also dye equilibrium of UMF at $100^\circ{C}$ was increased for Acid Red 18, but was decreased for Acid Blue 83. The intensities of X-ray diffraction peaks of UMF increased with increasing annealing temperature. Also the crystallinity of heat-sotted fibers by DSC thermogram was well agreed with the tendency of density Amino end group, moisture regain and water absorbency were decreased with increasing annealing temperature.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제11권4호
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• pp.661-666
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to analyze the dyeability of polyester(PET) fabric by thermal bonding with low melting component of bicomponent fiber and to describe the change of physical properties of thermal bonded PET fabrics. The PET fabrics were prepared with regular PET fiber as warp and bicomponent fiber as weft. The bicomponent fiber of sheath-core type was composed with a regular PET core and low melting PET sheath. The thermal bonding of PET fabric was carried out in pin tenter($195^{\circ}C$) for 60 seconds. In this study, we investigated the dye ability and fastness of the dyed PET fabric. Dye ability of E-type dyestuff is higher than S-type dyestuff. In the case of E- type dyestuff, the saturated dyeing time was 10minutes at $130^{\circ}C$. The washing fastness and light fastness were excellent as 4-5grade.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제13권6호
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• pp.391-396
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• 2001

The physical properties and the dyeability of the easily dyeable polyester yarn(EDY) were investigated and compared with those of regular polyester (REG-PET). The EDY, copolymerized with small amount of polyethylene glycol(PEG), showed higher intensity of aliphatic CH peak in IR spectrum, lower density and lower compactness than those of the REG-PET from the analysis of IR, density gradient column and XRD respectively. In the physical properties, the EDY has lowers $T_g$, $T_m$, specific stress and initial modulus, and also has higher strain than that of the REG-PET The EDY can be dyed under atmospheric pressure and its dyeing Fate was faster than REG-PET due to low $T_d$, and this seems to be caused by the increased flexibility of Polymer chain in amorphous region of the EDY due to the copolymerization of PEG.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제15권6호
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• pp.33-38
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• 2003

This study surveys the effects of POY physical properties and processing conditions of belt texturing machine to the textured yarns. The various textured yarns are made with the variations of 1st heater temperature, draw ratio, velocity ratio, and the physical properties of these specimens such as yam linear density, tenacity, breaking strain, and wet and dry thermal shrinkages are measured and analysed with the various processing conditions of texturing machine. Especially, the thermal characteristics of the textured yarns, which are affected at the fabric hands and the determination of the processing conditions in the dyeing and finishing processes, are investigated through the thermal stress analyser and DSC experiments.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제7권1호
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• pp.106-110
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• 2005

This research surveys the mechanical properties of worsted fabrics for garment according to the loom characteristics and fabric positions with relation to the warp and weft weaving tensions on the projectile and air-jet looms, which is previously surveyed in the 1st paper. For this purpose, the grey fabrics are processed in dyeing and finishing processes. The mechanical properties of the finished fabrics are measured and discussed with relation to the warp and weft weaving tensions of projectile and air-jet looms and the variations of the fabric mechanical properties according to the fabric positions are also surveyed for investigating the homogeneity of the tailorability and fabric hand.