• Title/Summary/Keyword: dye-resist

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Analysis of Pattern for Indonesian Traditional Textile Design (인도네시아 전통직물 디자인의 패턴 분석)

  • Koo Hee-Kyung
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.7 no.3
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    • pp.83-94
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    • 2005
  • This paper is to analyze patterns for Indonesian traditional textiles. Ikat is the resist-dyeing process in which designs are reserved in warp or weft yams by tying off small bundles of threads with fiber resists to prevent the penetration of dye. Batik is the technique applying a wax resist before dyeing to form a pattern in negative. Ikat and batik are the most renowned textile arts of Indonesia. Patterns are classified as geometric pattern, plant pattern, animal pattern. Also this paper discusses the origins of ikat and batik. Therefore this Paper proposes the classification and feature extraction of ikat and batik patterns. The results of this study can be effectively applied to develop competitive pattern design for Indonesian textile market.

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Low Temperature Dyeing Process by Intercellular diffusion through Cell Membrane Complex Modification of Wool. - Technology based on CSIRO and ICI (양모의 저온 염색 소개 - Sirolan LTD Process from ICI)

  • 윤일남
    • Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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    • 2001.11a
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    • pp.3-11
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    • 2001
  • Fundamental studies at the CSIRO division of Wool technology and ICI on the diffusion of dyes into wool〔1,2〕have let to development of a new approach to wool dyeing. In this method, the cell membrane complex of wool is modified before dyeing by treatment under mildly alkaline conditions with a special chemicals. Wool pretreated with ethoxylated quaternary ammonium salt has an increased rate of dyebath exhaustion and dye penetration early in the dyeing cycle. This enables the treated material to be dyed below the boil for a similar time to the conventional cycle. This technique can be used on untreated and shrinkresist-treated wool and wool/nylon blends. In addition to good macro-levelness and excellent coverage of tippiness, the low temperature dyeing process give higher exhaustion levels of dyestuffs and insect-resist agent and hence cleaner effluent liquors, compared with conventional dyeing process. Low Temperature Dyeing process cause significantly less fiber damage than conventional way. The reduction in damage is reflected in improved processing performance of the dyed wool.

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Fabrication design of car seat using LM flame retardant fiber (LM 난연사를 이용한 자동차 시트용 직물설계)

  • Ahn, Young-Moo
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.15 no.4
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    • pp.110-121
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    • 2011
  • As car seat is the closest part between driver and rider, the interest of the security and comfort of the seat is increasing. This research discovered the best condition for dyeing and finishing to produce a fabric for car seat and also developed the design of fabrication to give the feeling from such a finishing. The best condition of coating finishing solution is aqueous PU 65%, dye resist reagent 20%, water 12%, thicker 3%, and knife thickness 2mm, tenter temperature $170^{\circ}C$, tenter speed 35yard/min, viscosity 12,000cps and stirring time 100kg * 30min. According to the processing time of knife coating upon stirring the change of resin and the uneven of coating quantity was shown. This problems will be solved by means of automatic temperature control apparatus for resin and sealing device through a coming research.

A Study on Dyeing Technology for Melange Effect in Wool Piece Dyeing (모직물을 포염에서 melange염색 효과를 나타내기 위한 기술개발과 응용에 관한 연구)

  • 이명환;정영진;최해욱;이언필
    • Textile Coloration and Finishing
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    • v.10 no.3
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    • pp.1-9
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    • 1998
  • The dyeing properties of modified wool were examined with a series of acid, reactive and cationic dyes. Cationic agent and sulphamic acid were applied to wool fabric for dye assist and resist effect. Wool pretreated with cationic agent showed better uptake of acid and reactive dyes than did untreated wool. On the other hand, the dyeing behavior of wool pretreated with sulphamic acid was found as follows : Acid dyes were poorly resisted with a hydrophobic mechanism but acid dyes were strongly resisted with a hydrophilic mechanism. Reactive dyes were also found to be effectively resisted. Sulphamic acid introduces sulphonate group into wool's structure, it has increased better uptake of cationic dyes than untreated wool. The degree of differential uptake depends on the level of pretreatment and produces a variety of tone-on-tone and multicolor effect in piece dyeing.

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Enduring Threads of Tradition : The Block Printed Cottons of Rural Rajasthan

  • Ronald, Emma
    • The International Journal of Costume Culture
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    • v.13 no.1
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    • pp.1-4
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    • 2010
  • The hand printed cottons of India are historically world-renowned for their rich fast colours, elaborate designs, and matchless quality. Until the discovery of synthetic dyestuffs in the latter part of the nineteenth century, the unsurpassed master dyers of cotton were the craftsmen of India-birthplace of cultivated cotton. The Indian printers and dyers monopolised this arcane art of permeating cotton cloth with richly hued, colour-fast designs, and the fruits of their labour proved hugely influential in international trade and the development of modern textile technologies. This paper focuses on a lesser-known body of hand printed cottons, traditionally produced in rural Rajasthan for everyday use by the local pastoral communities. Drawing on extensive research carried out with the region's Chhipa community of hereditary cloth printers, the complex and multiple applications of mordant, dye and resist are illustrated. Often taking months to complete, the enduring popularity of these labour-intensive hand printed cottons is then discussed, particularly in the light of the hugesocial importance borne by cloth in Rajasthan. Cloth and clothing are widely recognised as indicators of social status, gender, rank, and individual and group affiliations. In addition, cloth and clothing have been established as indicators of social, economic, political and technological change. The paper concludes by drawing attention to the recent influx of machine-printed polyester textiles, often replicating the designs or colours of the traditional locally produced cottons. Thus women of the region, whilst using these modern synthetic textiles as part of newer ways of expressing their identity, also visibly retain the values associated with hand printed cottons and traditional dress codes.

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Compressional Properties of PTT BCF and Nylon BCF Carpets (PTT BCF카펫과 나일론 BCF카펫의 압축특성(壓縮特性)에 관(關)한 연구(硏究))

  • Yun, Myung-Hui;Kim, Jong-Jun;Jeon, Dong-Won
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.8 no.5
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    • pp.115-124
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    • 2004
  • PTT(polytrimethylene terephthalate) is a thermoplastic that can be melt-spun into fibers and has extensive applications in carpets, textiles and apparel, engineering thermoplastics, nonwovens, and films or sheets. This polymer combines the good properties of nylon and polyester. Compared with other synthetic fibers such as nylon and acrylic, the PTT fibers feel softer, dye easier with vibrant colors, stretch and recover better. Moreover, the PTT fibers for carpets resist most stainings, clean better, and dry faster. The PTT was first patented in 1941, but it was not until the 1990's, when Shell Chemicals developed the practical method of producing PDO, the raw material for PTT. Many studies have been done including the retention of carpet texture using an image analysis technique, or compressional resilience of the carpet for long term use. In this study, PTT and nylon BCF carpets were compared in terms of the compressional properties including the resilience, using one of the KES system for repetitive measurements. The compression resilience(RC) values of the PTT BCF carpets far exceed those of nylon 6 BCF carpets. The RC values of the PTT BCF carpet(cut) specimens are $42{\sim}45%$ for 5 successive compression deformations, while those of the nylon BCF carpet specimens(cut) are $26{\sim}28%$. There is also a similar trend in the RC values for the other type of carpet which is the loop type. This resilience is one of the important factors of carpet usage evaluation.

Modern Paper Quality Control

  • Olavi Komppa
    • Proceedings of the Korea Technical Association of the Pulp and Paper Industry Conference
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    • 2000.06a
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    • pp.16-23
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    • 2000
  • The increasing functional needs of top-quality printing papers and packaging paperboards, and especially the rapid developments in electronic printing processes and various computer printers during past few years, set new targets and requirements for modern paper quality. Most of these paper grades of today have relatively high filler content, are moderately or heavily calendered , and have many coating layers for the best appearance and performance. In practice, this means that many of the traditional quality assurance methods, mostly designed to measure papers made of pure. native pulp only, can not reliably (or at all) be used to analyze or rank the quality of modern papers. Hence, introduction of new measurement techniques is necessary to assure and further develop the paper quality today and in the future. Paper formation , i.e. small scale (millimeter scale) variation of basis weight, is the most important quality parameter of paper-making due to its influence on practically all the other quality properties of paper. The ideal paper would be completely uniform so that the basis weight of each small point (area) measured would be the same. In practice, of course, this is not possible because there always exists relatively large local variations in paper. However, these small scale basis weight variations are the major reason for many other quality problems, including calender blacking uneven coating result, uneven printing result, etc. The traditionally used visual inspection or optical measurement of the paper does not give us a reliable understanding of the material variations in the paper because in modern paper making process the optical behavior of paper is strongly affected by using e.g. fillers, dye or coating colors. Futhermore, the opacity (optical density) of the paper is changed at different process stages like wet pressing and calendering. The greatest advantage of using beta transmission method to measure paper formation is that it can be very reliably calibrated to measure true basis weight variation of all kinds of paper and board, independently on sample basis weight or paper grade. This gives us the possibility to measure, compare and judge papers made of different raw materials, different color, or even to measure heavily calendered, coated or printed papers. Scientific research of paper physics has shown that the orientation of the top layer (paper surface) fibers of the sheet paly the key role in paper curling and cockling , causing the typical practical problems (paper jam) with modern fax and copy machines, electronic printing , etc. On the other hand, the fiber orientation at the surface and middle layer of the sheet controls the bending stiffness of paperboard . Therefore, a reliable measurement of paper surface fiber orientation gives us a magnificent tool to investigate and predict paper curling and coclking tendency, and provides the necessary information to finetune, the manufacturing process for optimum quality. many papers, especially heavily calendered and coated grades, do resist liquid and gas penetration very much, bing beyond the measurement range of the traditional instruments or resulting invonveniently long measuring time per sample . The increased surface hardness and use of filler minerals and mechanical pulp make a reliable, nonleaking sample contact to the measurement head a challenge of its own. Paper surface coating causes, as expected, a layer which has completely different permeability characteristics compared to the other layer of the sheet. The latest developments in sensor technologies have made it possible to reliably measure gas flow in well controlled conditions, allowing us to investigate the gas penetration of open structures, such as cigarette paper, tissue or sack paper, and in the low permeability range analyze even fully greaseproof papers, silicon papers, heavily coated papers and boards or even detect defects in barrier coatings ! Even nitrogen or helium may be used as the gas, giving us completely new possibilities to rank the products or to find correlation to critical process or converting parameters. All the modern paper machines include many on-line measuring instruments which are used to give the necessary information for automatic process control systems. hence, the reliability of this information obtained from different sensors is vital for good optimizing and process stability. If any of these on-line sensors do not operate perfectly ass planned (having even small measurement error or malfunction ), the process control will set the machine to operate away from the optimum , resulting loss of profit or eventual problems in quality or runnability. To assure optimum operation of the paper machines, a novel quality assurance policy for the on-line measurements has been developed, including control procedures utilizing traceable, accredited standards for the best reliability and performance.