• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.11 no.3
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• pp.423-430
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• 2003

Cotton fabric md nylon fabric were chosen as base fabric specimens for dyeing using Japanese pagoda tree colorants through chitosan, treatment. With the chitosan treatment, the dye-uptake of the treated fabric increased. This treatment is also expected to be effective in terms of environment-friendliness. The effect of the dyeing methods, mordanting or non-mordanting, and chitosan treatment on the dye-uptake and air permeability of the treated fabrics was investigated. In case of cotton fabric, Al mordanted dyeing resulted in higher dye-uptake through the chitosan treatment. Therefore, the chitosan treatment is effective in this case. Japanese pagoda tree seems to have direct affinity for nylon fabric without the mordanting treatment. In case of cotton fabric, it seems that the cellulose molecules, colorants, and the chitosan make a complex, thereby reducing the air permeability. In case of nylon fabric, due to the fact the Japanese pagoda tree colorant molecules form direct physical bonding with the nylon molecules, it seems that there is not much of air permeability reduction.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.9 no.3
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• pp.63-68
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• 2006

Walnut colorants were extracted from walnut hull and their dyeing properties on cotton were investigated. Effect of dyeing conditions on dye uptake and effect of mordanting on dye uptake, color change and colorfastness were explored. Walnut colorants showed low affinity to cotton compared with wool and its isotherm adsorption curve was Freundlich type. It was considered that hydrogen bonding and van der Waal's force were involved in the adsorption of walnut colorants onto cotton. The dyed cotton showed YR color and there was no significant color change as pH changed. The dyed cotton showed generally high colorfastness except fastness to washing and light. Mordanting did not improve dye uptake and colorfastness, and not affect color of the dyed cotton significantly.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.5 no.1
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• pp.42-47
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• 2002

Antimicrobial activity of silk and cotton fabrics dyed with gromwell colorants was examined by shake flask method. The effects of bacterial reduction rate on dye uptake and mordanting were explored. The silk(K/S value 8) and cotton fabric (K/S value 4) dyed with gromwell colorants showed high bacterial reduction rate of 99 % and 88 %, respectively. Post-mordanted silk fabric increased at K/S value, also showed higher bacterial reduction rate than unmordanted. But the effects of antimicrobial activity on mordants showed respectively different results. Pre-mordanted cotton fabric except Sn mordant increased at K/S value, but it was not significant. Pre-mordanted cotton fabric showed significantly higher bacterial reduction rate than unmordanted. Therefore, it was considered that dye uptake of cotton fabric dyed with gromwell colorants and mordants were involved in the bacterial reduction rate. It was concluded that gromwell colorants had antimicrobial activity.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.15 no.6
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• pp.55-62
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• 2003

Wool fabrics were dyed with the aqueous solution of C. I. Red Acid 114 mixed with methanol dissolving three kinds of barely water soluble ketones, acetophenone, 2-pentanone, and 3-pentanone. The steric hinderance and the orientation of the bigger hydrophobic part of the solvated dye molecules to the fiber slowed down the dying rate, however, loosening the wool molecule, say a little swelling, disaggeregating the dye molecules, and attaining the higher dye concentration on the fiber surface by the added solvents increased the amount of dye on the fabric. The higher concentration or/and the higher dyeing temperature helped loosen fiber molecules and made it easier for the solvated dye molecules to penetrate into the inside of the fiber. Acetophenone, the most influential solvent used, showed that the ability to loosen fiber molecules was the most important of all the three positive solvent actions mentioned above. The considered mechanism provided before reflected the fact that the dye uptake on the fabric dyed with the solvents included, except for 0.034M and 0.051M of acetophenone, was even lower than that without any solvents at $50^\circ{C}$, but all the solvents added to the dye bath increased the dye uptake on the fiber at $70^\circ{C}$.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.23 no.3
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• pp.169-178
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to develop eco-printing method using natural dyes combined with chitosan treatment to impart various pattern effect on cotton fabric. It was examined whether tone-on-tone pattern effects could be produced by screen printing with chitosan paste and subsequently dip-dyed in natural dye bath. For polychromic colorants, fabrics were pre-mordanted and then screen printed with chitosan, while only chitosan printing treatment was applied for monochromic colorants. Color, dye uptake, washing, light and rubbing fastnesses of printed fabrics were measured in relation to the presence of chitosan printing. Pre-mordanting and chitosan printing treatment were applied to such polychromic colorants as madder, sappanwood, onion and cochineal. Also, printing pattern formation on fabrics was evaluated by differences in dye uptake and color. The results suggested that madder, onion and cochineal were effective on pattern formation. Regarding sappanwood, since dye uptake was increased only by pre-mordanting without chitosan printing treatment, there was little color difference and thus patterns were not clearly distinguished. Chitosan printing treatment tended to increase washing, light and rubbing fastnesses of dyed fabrics with polychromic colorants. Chitosan printing treatment was applied to monochromic colorants such as chlorophyll, gardenia and indigo and the effect of printing formation was examined according to the difference in dye uptake. Among monochromic dyes tried, chlorophyll was effective and chitosan printing improved washing and light fastnesses.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.13 no.2 s.55
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• pp.240-247
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• 2005

In this study, cotton fabric specimens were pre-mordanted using Sn, Al, Cu, Cr, and Fe, and subsequently dyed using cochineal, maintaining the pH of the dye bath constant using pH buffer solutions of 4, 5, 6, 7, and 8. In the cases of Al, Cr, and Sn mordanting, the dye-uptake was well accomplished in the acidic range of pH 4 and 5. However, the dye-uptake was not accomplished in the range over pH 6. In the cases of Cu and Fe mordanting, however, the pH value did not affect the dye-uptake and the dyeability in the alkaline range was not decreased remarkably. In the case of non-mordant, the dye-uptake was not accomplished at all, and the Cu and Fe mordanting gave rise to the best dyeability. In the cases of non-mordanting and Al, Cu mordanting, there was no change in the $\lambda_{max}$, and in the cases of Sn and Cr mordanting, the $\lambda_{max}$ moved toward the shorter wavelength. In the case of Fe mordanting only, the $\lambda_{max}$ moved gradually toward the longer wavelength, and due to the pH effect deep-dyeing effect was revealed.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.21 no.4
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• pp.791-803
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• 2012

This study intends to identify applicability of natural dye extracted from Aplysia kurodai, aiming to standardization of Aplysia kurodai natural dyeing through scientific validation by analyzing characteristics of pigment elements to review dyeability, colorfastness and antibacterial activity. Such material as silk fabrics that is animal fiber were used for this purpose, and derived following summarized results. UV/VIS spectrum analysis on the pigment of Aplysia kurodai that was extracted from purple gland showed that maximum absorbtion was near 540 nm. The silk fabric optimal dyeing can be achieved at a temperature of $55^{\circ}C$ with a colorant concentration of 5%. Dyed at $55^{\circ}C$ with interval of 10~90 minutes for identifying dye uptake over time to observed slow increase of dye uptake over time, and equilibrium occurred at 50 minutes. For dye uptake according to pH, while dye uptake was superior in acidity, it decreased rapidly in a base after pH 7. For color changes according to pH variation, it was reddish purple in acidity and was purplish red in a base. For color changes according to mordanting method, more clear color change had been obtained when process with aluminium pre-mordanting than non-mordanting and post-mordanting. The colorfastness to light, perspiration and washing was 1, 4~5, and 3~4 ratings respectively. The silk fabric dyed with Aplysia kurodai demonstrated excellent antimicrobial activity to Staphylococcus aureus and Klebsiella pneumoniae. The Aplysia kurodai can be used as a new colorant for the natural dyeing of silk.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.20 no.6
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• pp.42-50
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• 2008

The objective of this study is to investigate the efficacy of pomegranate hull colorant as a natural hair coloring dye. The extract of pomegranate hull was concentrated and freeze-dried to get colorant powder. Effect of dyeing condition and mordanting on the dye uptake of hair by using Al, Fe, Cu, Cr, Sn compounds, color change and colorfastness were explored. In addition, tensile strength was measured and the surface of the hair was observed. Dye uptake of hair measured by K/S value (400 nm) indicated that ionic bonding seems to be involved in the sorption of pomegranate colorant to hair. Maximum sorption was obtained at pH 3.5 and the concentration of 50% (on the weight of hair, o.w.h.). Acidic dyeing condition (pH $3.5{\sim}5.0$) showed yellow color however alkaline dyeing condition (pH $7{\sim}11$) gave reddish yellow color. Pomegranate hull colorant produced greyish brown color on hair and the hair mordanted with Fe showed dark brown color. Mordants except Fe did not increase dye uptake significantly. Mordants except Cu increased light fastness and mordants except Cr increased washing fastness level slightly. According to SEM observation and the tensile strength retention measurement, the mordant dyed hair gave more damage to hair by ultraviolet light and washing than the hair dyed without mordanting. Experimental results of K/S value and colorfastness(light and washing) supported that pomegranate hull colorant without mordanting can be used as a semi-permanent natural hair coloring dye.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.27 no.1
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• pp.80-95
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• 2015

In this study, the properties such as color, dye uptake and antibacterial function were examined through the application of combination dyeing and mixed dyeing with extracts from Humulus japonicus(hwansam) and the pruned branches of Prunus persica(peach) tree. In terms of dye uptake and surface color changes subject to the kind of mordants, methods and mixing ratio of dye, it was found that fabrics dyed by the pre-mordanting method with $CuSO_4$ showed the red green yellow group colors, which were not seen in fabrics dyed with hwansam only. Color fastness was found strong at grade 4-5 with 96.3% of UV protection ratio. While the fastness to light was as fair as grade 3, it showed an excellent result of 99.9% bacteria reduction rate against Staphylococcus aureus with fair 58% deodorization rate and 21.2% antibacterial rate against Klebsiella pneumoniae. As stated above, the combination and mixed dyeing resulted in the meaningful outcomes with regard to color variations, dye uptake, color fastness and functional properties.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.127-136
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• 2015

The purpose of this study was to examine improvements in dye uptake, expression of various colors, and color fastness when washed or exposed to light. We examined these improvements by doing the combination dyeing of Juniperus chinensis heartwood and Alnus japonica heartwood extracts. In this study, two combination dyeing methods were used. One-bath dyeing involves combining Juniperus chinensis heartwood extract and Alnus japonica heartwood extract. Two-bath dyeing involves dyeing by sequence, which means that we dyed the Juniperus chinensis heartwood extract first and then dyed Alnus japonica heartwood extract sequentially (or in the opposite order). In terms of improving dye uptake, two-bath dyeing was more effective than one-bath dyeing. For cotton, dyeing Juniperus chinensis heartwood extract first and then dyeing Alnus japonica heartwood extract sequentially showed higher dye uptake in the two-bath method, while for silk, there wasn't much difference in the dyeing order. Through combination dyeing, red-violet color from Juniperus chinensis heartwood and brown color from Alnus japonica heartwood made various Y, YR, R series of color as a result. Moreover, combination dyeing improved fabric's fastness when washed or exposed to light. In the case of cotton, fabric dyed using two-bath dyeing, with Juniperus chinensis heartwood extract being the first dye, showed improvement in fastness to washing and light. And in the case of silk, fastness to washing and light improved regardless of dyeing order in two-bath dyeing.