• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.439-448
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• 2018

This thesis intends to suggest a new wedding dress pattern through researches on history and changes of wedding dress, researches on silhouette and details and analyses of existing basic patterns. In this study, to develop torso patterns of top dresses selected as preferred designs through literature reviews and company surveys, dress form sizes suitable for standard sizes were selected and study basic patterns were made using draping techniques. The study finds characteristics of body type dimension that is changed when wearing brassiere (hereinafter, 'bra') for wedding dress through customer surveys for development of basic patterns of wedding dress. That is, wearing wedding bra was used for the purpose of increasing the bust size and we will evaluate later whether this increase helps completeness of aesthetic impression through wearing evaluation. As the result, it was found out that top torso pattern wearing wedding bra made wearers feel more comfortable and in the aspect of aesthetic impression, it provided impacts on women's beautiful silhouettes. The effects of whether a bra is used or not on changes in patterns were reviewed through the degree of polymerization of finished patterns. When a bra for dresses was worn, the waist front length increased by1.7cm, the bust circumference increased by 2.1cm, and the amount of dart increased by 1.5cm in the patterns. A new torso pattern for top dresses, which will solve problems evaluated in each of the above from the aspect of composition of pattern by a method through analysis of existing basic patterns and multi-dimensional cut patterns wearing wedding bra, will be suggested.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.8 no.5
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• pp.100-114
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• 2004

This is a basic study for developing educational dress forms of male adults' pattern making. While examining the reality of each university's men's wear education and the production of male dress forms, this paper found the following findings: 1. Survey of Dress Forms Used by Men's Apparel Companies The men's apparel companies had dissatisfaction with domestic dress forms but satisfaction with foreign-made ones. In general, among the unsatisfied items were wide discrepancy in male Korean body sizes, unfitting domestic somatotypes, lacking dress forms for those in the 20s, and no diverse forms per body type. To be specific, unsuitable hip and shoulder parts as well as weak fixing parts were pointed out. Every apparel companies found it necessary to develop male dress forms based on Korean male adults. When they are developed for sale, they will be highly utilized in the order of fitting, pattern making, male design research, and somatotype research. 2. Survey of Education for Men's Wear in Fashion Dept. of University 61.54% of the investigated universities had some teaching as far as men's wear were concerned. Application areas of male dress forms were such as pattern making (53.85%), fitting (41.38%), and design research (5.77%). As to the degrees of utilization, 73.08% predicted them high.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.27 no.2
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• pp.31-42
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• 1989

The purpose of this study was to develop a computer program to draft princess line onepiece dress pattern. To this study, the Turbo Pascal Compiler and the Pascal language were used. The procedures of the study were as follows: 1. A basic onepiece dress pattern was drafted by the hand operation. 2. The co-ordinate points were instituted for indication of relative position of all necessary points in drafting. Total sixty-nine co-ordinte points (front: thirty-five, back: thirt-four) were instituted. 3. The two subprograms for main program were developed to solve geometric problems and to draft straight lines and curved lines of the onepiece dress pattern. 4. The program was accomplished by putting indivisual body measurement 5. Grading fo five size was given.

• Human Ecology Research
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• v.61 no.1
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• pp.53-71
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• 2023

Dressmaking is a high value-added sector of the fashion industry in which the individuality and skills of designers play a prominent role. The appropriate use of the draping and the flat pattern techniques in the dressmaking process also play an important part in perfecting the finished product. The purpose of this study was to improve the understanding of dress design and identify a pattern production technique to enhence efficiency in each of the three elements of the dress manufactureing process. For this purpose, analysis of the design of 1,389 wedding dress photographs published in Wedding 21, Korea's leading wedding magazine, during 2019 and 2020 was conducted. This analysis identified 15 bodice designs and 11 sleeve designs based on neckline and eight skirts based on silhouette which were ranked by frequency distribution. Patterns for the design of samples were then developed according to the highest combined frequency distribution of these three elements. Eight samples were finally produced to test the the efficiency of the patternmaking techniques empolyed and the selected designs. The findings from this study have practical applications, notably in improving the efficiency of pattern production techniques that will facilitate further growth in the dressmaking industry.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.40 no.1
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• pp.171-187
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• 2016

The study performed a comparison analysis of market brand patterns for slim-fit dress shirts and analyzed the body surface development figure of men in their 40s using 3D body scan data and developed slim-fit dress shirt patterns suitable for middle-aged men. The sizes of slim-fit dress shirt patterns showed a slight difference depending on brand. The overlap map of slim-fit dress shirt patterns for brands demonstrates how difference of one-dimensional sizes reflect on two-dimensional patterns. This map provides useful information for pattern design and allows and easy recognition of pattern size differences. A try-on system evaluation through 3D-Simulation allows a grasp of the fitness of neckline and size tolerance of under the arms in front, the silhouette of side lines, and overall fitness in front that also allows analysis of the front/back balance of a shirt in side, the size tolerance proportion in front/back, and the fitness of the arm-hole line. Thus, we obtained try-on results that were equivalent to wearing actual clothing. According to the drafting size suggested in the developed final pattern, the total width was 'C/2+5.5cm', and the front was set at 1cm bigger in the size difference of the front and back. The width of the front neck and the back neck was set identically at 'C/12', while the width of the front neck was set to 'C/12+1.5cm'. For the armhole depth, we added 'C/4+2cm', and '0.5cm and 1.5cm' for the width of the front and back to anthropometry. The results of the try-on evaluation through 3D-Simulation indicated that the fitness of the final slim-fit dress shirt pattern was superior to available slim-fit dress shirt patterns on the market and evaluated as superior to the types for middle-aged men.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.4 no.3
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• pp.395-406
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• 1996

This article aims, by analyzing structurally the codification of dress sign in Korean society, the signifying system of the codes and their message communicated, to make clear a signifying structure that would be codified through the relationship between abstract concepts and real condition of dress. I used the semiotic theory of Ferdinand de Saussure′s conception on structuralismly the codification, cultural semiology of Roland Barthes and Myung-Sook Han′s formula of dress structure as tools analyse may objective of wedding dress of folks in Choson Dynasty, which has been successive our traditional Korean wedding dress. My results of the study are : The procedure of wedding ceremony in Choson Dynasty was presented in texts like Juga-garye, Sarye-peonram and Kukjo-orye, its dress system has been more emphasized on language, and aspect of social system, than parole, one of individual realization. In addition, the meanings of marrage such as "Oneness of bride and bridegroom", "Mixture of two sexes", "Blessing of good luck", were included in the signified like the style, pattern and color of the wedding dress, and specially, pattern and color, the articulated morphemes, was emphasized, When we combinated terms of dress in Choson Dynasty with syntagmatic, regarding their list as paradigmatic, it will signify a wedding dress, and according to combinating ways, it amy be divided as sign of dresses of bride and bridgeroom by sex or king, gentry and common people by class. Wedding Dress in Choson Dynasty = [{ODx(U/Dxu/d)}+AC·H·FW].

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.2
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• pp.294-306
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is a men's dress shirt pattern by somatotype for mass customization system that is rising to the surface as a new production system. Subjects were 65 men aged from 25 to 44 for making research pattern and 9 men for wearing test. The dress shirt went through the secondary wearing test and sensory evaluation to verify the propriety of the research pattern. The results were as follows: For making research dress shirts pattern used the body parts size that were height, the circumference of the neck, the chest circumference, the length between biacromion, the arms length, and the waist circumference. The waist back length, the waist to hip length and the pattern length of were set by the calculation formula based on the height. The ease of 16cm for the chest circumference and A type had the ease of 10cm for the waist circumference, Y type had the ease of 8cm and B type had 12cm. Through the wearing test, the research pattern showed significant difference from the comparative patterns so additional two items of the length between biacromion and waist circumference were added to the items used in the comparative patterns through which satisfactory results were obtained. In the secondary wearing test for the dress shirt, all the items, except for the front centerline, were evaluated excellent. As a result of evaluating by the figure type, the normal type was evaluated best in all the items.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.20 no.3
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• pp.330-346
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• 2012

The purpose of this study is to link traditional patterns to modern clothing. Of all the traditional patterns, the cloud pattern was chosen for use during the development of a modern one-piece dress design. This study is based upon document searches, including research papers. Through these searches, it investigates the symbolic meaning, historical change, and formation of the cloud pattern. Based on this investigation, the study attempts to modernize the cloud pattern and apply the modernized patterns to the design of a one-piece dress. The design procedure includes three sub-processes: selection, arrangement, and color-scheme. The selection process was divided in two: first, the original form of the cloud pattern was hand-drawn using tracing paper: second, the form of the pattern was edited using Adobe Photoshop. The arrangement of the pattern was made through the checklist conception method, containing the following functions: expand, reset, repeat, and overlap. For the color-scheme of the pattern, Roy Lichtenstein's(1923~1997) work was selected, and the colors in his work were adopted when dyeing the rest of the one-piece dress as well as the cloud features. In conclusion, six modern designs of the one-piece dress were created by using one of Korea's traditional patterns - the cloud pattern. Therefore, this study can offer invaluable suggestions for multifaceted research on how to come up with design concepts which apply Korea's traditional patterns to clothing design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.20
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• pp.63-72
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• 1993

The concept of style provides a useful structure in history of Art. In aspect of formative art, dress and art work are alike, so style is a useful concept in the historical methodology on dress. The main purpose of this study was to apply the art criticism to the historical methodology on dress. For this purpose, documentary studies about style as a tool of historical research were proceeded. The results were as follows : 1. The concept of style consists of the external form and the internal meaning as double roots. Therefore, it's indispensable that the two asp-ects of style, form and meaning, must to be harmonized to describe the historical phenomena in dress. 2. The change pattern of style in dress is not always predeterminate and regular according to the cyclical theory. From the alternative point of view, the change pattern of style could be to describe the continuous theory proposed by kroeber, Brodsky. The whole change of style is considered "liked solution" by this theory.is theory.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.91-103
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• 2014

Shirts which have been a inner-wear in men's suit in the past, are being changed into an item that 20's men utilize to their individuality. Dress shirts have gotten out of its shape, becoming tight and slim with activity and fashion trend. In this study, two patterns of fitted dress shirts in a clothing construction text book were compared with the pattern of an apparel company with regard to the size tolerance and appearance silhouette; this comparison was performed through a fitting test and an appearance evaluation. According to the study, size tolerance of chest girth and waist girth were about 6~8cm and 10~18cm, respectively. Neck girth of the collar was tight in both the fitting test and appearance evaluation. Thus, the measurement value of the neck base girth had to be used for the collar pattern making. Moreover, approximately 35cm is a moderate size for the width on the upper arm in sleeve. Therefor the factors such as size tolerance of waist girth, height of sleeve cap, slim sleeve width and measurement value of neck base girth are being considered for the pattern making of fitted dress shirts.