• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제2권2호
• /
• pp.150-158
• /
• 2000

This study investigated mechanical properties, drape coefficients and node indices of stretch fabrics. We applied mechanical properties to exhibited tailorability control in HESC and evaluated making-up. The mechanical properties such as tensile, bending, shearing, compression, surface characteristic values, thickness and weight were measured by the KES-F system and drape coefficient by drape tester. The summarized results of this study were as follows; First, stretch fabrics, almost, shown high stretch in weft inserted polyurethane yarn fabric and had a ${\pm}2{\sigma}$(sigma) range of shearing, compression, surface and thickness, except bending and weight, as compared with Japanese women's thin dress fabrics. Second, bending had a positive correlation in stiffness, anti-drape and flexibility & softness. Shearing had a negative correlation in crispness and scroop. Surface properties had a high contribution in fullness & softness. Third, The drape coefficient was found by measuring the mechanical properties according to the obtained regression equation. Forth, many problems are expected in overfeed and cutting operations in sewing process. In the decision of the good external appearance using TVA, only 26 of 55 samples are included in the range of the good external appearance. Fifth, in the regard of the result for sewing control, warp values are not necessary to control in the all kind of items. But weft value in the RT and EM are out of non-control zone. So we need a special management during sewing process.

• 한국잠사곤충학회지
• /
• 제29권2호
• /
• pp.67-72
• /
• 1987

견직물의 효소정련에 있어서 조련정도가 효소정련한 견직물의 특성에 미치는 영향을 구명하기 위하여 조련정도가 다른 효소정련견포에 대하여 KES-F System을 적용하여 역학적 특성 즉 인장, 굽힘, 약단, 압축 및 표면특성을 측정하고 태값을 산출하여 비교한 결과는 아래와 같다. 1. 능하부다이 견직물의 경우 조련연감율이 증가와 함께 포의 stiffness는 감소되고 smoothness는 향상되었으나 종합 태값인 soft feeling은 조련 20%에서 가장 우수하였다. 2. 크\ulcorner데신 견직물의 경우 anti-drape stiffness는 조련정도가 커지는데 따라서 증가되었으나 기타 특성과 종합 태값인 Flexibility with soft feeling은 조련정도와 상관이 인정되지 않았다.

• 한국잠사곤충학회지
• /
• 제28권2호
• /
• pp.52-60
• /
• 1986

견직물에 효소에 의한 정련처리를 비누-소다정련과 함께 실시한 후 이들 정련견포에 대하여 KES-F System을 적용하여 역학적 특성 즉 인장, 굽힘, 전단, 압축 및 표면특성을 측정하고 태값을 산출하여 효소정련과 비누-소다정련견포의 태값을 비교한 결과 1. 능하부다이 견직물의 경우 효소정련을 하면 포의 Stiffness가 비누-소다정련을 한 것에 비하여 감소되었고 Smoothness와 Soft feeling은 증가하였다. 2. 크\ulcorner데신 견직물의 경우 효소정련을 하면 비누-소다 정련에 비하여 Stiffness와 Anti-Drape Stiffness는 감소되었으며 Fullness와 종합 태값인 Flexibility with soft feeling은 향상되었다.

• 한국염색가공학회지
• /
• 제30권2호
• /
• pp.141-149
• /
• 2018

This study aimed to investigate the efficacy of eco-friendly leather dyeing by utilizing food wastes. Natural dyeing of eel skin was attempted using onion peels which have been used commonly for natural dyeing of textile fabrics. Eel skin is a by-product from fishery processing and is used mainly for making leather products. The colorant was extracted from onion peels in boiling water, concentrated, and freeze-dried. Dyeing of eel skin was carried out to study the effects of dyeing conditions, mordant type and mordanting method on dye uptake, color change, drape stiffness and colorfastness. The optimum dyeing conditions were $60^{\circ}C$ of dyeing temperature, 60min of dyeing time at 1:100($H_2O$ 90%: ethanol 10%) of bath ratio. The onion peels produced yellowish color on eel skin. The pre-mordanting was effective than the post-mordanting. As a result of the drape stiffness measurement, the Fe-mordanted sample was somewhat stiffer comparing to other mordanted samples. The light fastness of the non-mordant dye was excellent in 3-4 grade. Drycleaning fastness and rubbing fastness showed excellent results, but fastness was not significantly improved by mordanting.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제7권1호
• /
• pp.91-95
• /
• 2005

The purpose of this study is to investigate the improvement of fiber surface, physical properties and research the physical properties and dyeability of cotton fabrics treated with KOH solution at low and high temperature. The treatment conditions for mercerization with KOH were changed various temperatures(25, $90^{\circ}C$), concentrations(15, 20, 25, 30%. w/v) and times(30, 60, 180, 300sec). The effects of mercerization after KOH treatment estimated with tensile strength, tearing strength, shrinkage, drape stiffness, moisture regain, fiber surface, and dyeability. The optimal conditions were concentration of KOH 20%, time 180sec in low temperature and concentration of KOH 20%, time 60sec in high temperature. The results are as follows; Tensile strength, tearing strength and moisture regain were much improved than those of untreated cotton fabric. Shrinkage and drape stiffness of KOH treated cotton were more increased at $25^{\circ}C$ than $90^{\circ}C$. Fiber surface showed more rounded shape at $25^{\circ}C$ than $90^{\circ}C$. Dyeability of cotton fabrics improved by KOH treatment.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제33권1호
• /
• pp.149-159
• /
• 2009

The purposes of this study are to evaluate physical performance of metallic Jacquard fabrics, and to contribute to the research and development of the women's suit made of the metallic Jacquard fabrics. First, eight fabrics were woven with two kinds of warp yarns(nylon and rayon) and weft yarn blended with various contents(0, 7, 14, 21%) of metallic yarn. Second, the mechanical properties were measured by using the KES-FB system, and physical properties such as tensile strength, tearing strength, abrasion resistance, drape, pilling, snagging, degree of crease resistance, flexural stiffness, specular gloss, folding endurance and electrostatic propensity were measured. The results were as follows. As the metal fiber content increased, bending, shear, thickness and weight increased, which imply low recovery of wrinkles. It means that metallic Jacquard fabrics enable to use as a memory fabric. 7% metallic Jacquard fabric showed a low value at total hand value, but there was little change. As the metal fiber content increased, tensile strength, tearing strength, drape coefficient, specular gloss and flexural stiffness increased, however the degree of crease resistance, electrostatic propensity and folding endurance decreased. The metallic Jacquard fabrics were excellent in snagging, abrasion resistance and pilling.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제8권1호
• /
• pp.129-133
• /
• 2006

To develope a high value-added fiber products which is useful in the human body physiology, the Macban stone was deposited on the PET fabric by sputtering and its effects were investigated. Then, a Macban stone target was prepared for sputtering treatment and treated on the PET fabric by RF sputtering process. After treatment, surface observation by SEM, far-infrared emissivity and emissive power, the fastness to washing and light, bacteriostatic rate, electrostatic, drape stiffness, and breaking strength of PET fabric were investigated. From these investigation, the following conclusions were obtained. 1) The Macban stone was able to deposit on the PET fabric, by the RF sputtering treatment which is eco-friendly dry textile finishing. 2) The far-infrared emissivity and emissive power of sputtered PET fabrics were increased. 3) When PET fabric was treated by sputtering with Macban stone, the amount of deposited Macban stone increased with increasing treatment time and it was deposited on the fabric surface firmly. 4) The bacteriostatic rate of sputtered PET fabrics was about 20%. 5) The electrostatic charge of fiber surface was reduced by sputtering. 6) The fastness washing to light of dyed fabric were improved by the deposition of Macban stone, but the breaking strength was not changed by sputtering. 7) The drape stiffness of sputtered PET fabrics increased with increasing treatment time.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제34권3호
• /
• pp.448-458
• /
• 2010

Kenaf has a rigid and rough touch that inhibits the use of it as a textile material; therefore, this study developed a novel textile material using kenaf. Kenaf and cotton were blended in the ratio of 3:7 and manufactured as 20' spun yarn that was compared to 20's spun yarn made of 100% cotton. Both kenaf/cotton-blended and 100% cotton spun yarn were constructed as plain woven and knitted fabrics. Four kinds of fabrics were prepared as follows. Plain kenaf/cotton-woven fabrics, plain cotton-woven fabrics, kenaf/cotton jersey, and cotton jersey. A cellulase washing process was carried out to reduce the character of kenaf/cotton-blended fabrics, rigid, and rough touch. All fabrics were pretreated with NaOH. NaOH at the concentrations of 0, 0.25, 1.25, and 2.25mol/L, and cellulase at concentrations of 0, 1, 3 and 5g/L were used since the pretreatment of NaOH has a higher efficiency of weight loss than $Na_2CO_3,\;K2CO_3$ and Triton X-100. The ratio of weight loss, tensile strength, stiffness, drape property, and surface appearance were measured in order to evaluate the efficiency of the washing treatment on fabrics. Kenaf/cotton-blended fabrics exhibited more rigid and rough features than cotton fabrics. A cotton jersey showed significant differences in the degree of stiffness and drape properties. When all fabrics were treated with 1.25mol/L of NaOH and 3g/L of cellulase, kenaf/cotton-blended fabrics showed a higher retention ratio of tensile strength than cotton fabrics after washing despite the increased weight l08s of kenaf-blended fabrics compared to cotton fabrics. The ratio of weight loss for all fabrics was well correlated with flexibility. The washing treatment process made woven fabrics more flexible than knitted fabrics, because the stiffness of woven fabrics made the rubbing actions stronger. Kenaf/cotton-blended fabrics showed a significantly higher ratio of weight loss and more reduction in stiffness than cotton fabrics after the washing treatment. This might be due to the lack of cohesiveness and easy elimination from fabrics. The drape property of kenaf-blended fabrics was superior to cotton fabrics.

• 한국복합재료학회:학술대회논문집
• /
• 한국복합재료학회 2004년도 추계학술발표대회 논문집
• /
• pp.135-138
• /
• 2004

Because the compressive properties such as compressive stiffness and compressive maximum strength of the fabric composite materials are essential to analyse the drape behaviour and estimate the quality of the final products, compressive tests of fabric composites with different stacking sequences were performed. Appropriate shape and dimensions for the compressive test specimens were prepared and several specimens with different conditions were tested and compared with each other.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제26권12호
• /
• pp.1701-1708
• /
• 2002

본 연구의 목적은 자외선 차단 가공 처리 및 자외선 조사처리에 의해 면직물의 역학적 특성 변화를 조사하고 가공제 처리조건에 따른 차이점을 분석하는 것이다. 시료로는 100% 면직물을, 자외선 흡수제로 2,2'-dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxy benzophenone을, 첨가제로 Triton X-100, polyethylene glycol 400, MgCl$_2$.6$H_2O$를 사용하였다. 자외선 흡수제 처리는 Atlas Launder-O-meter로 75$^{\circ}C$에서 60분간 흡진법으로 하였다. 미처리 시료 및 처리시료는 모두 xenon 램프에 80시간 동안 노출되었으며, 자외선 조사 전후 시료의 역학적 특성은 KES-F시스템을 사용하여 측정하였다. 본 연구의 결과는 다음과 같이 요약할 수 있다. 자외선 흡수제 처리는 처리 농도에 상관없이 면직물의 선형인장성(LT), 인장레질리언스(RT), 굽힘강성(B), 굽힘이력(2HB), 전단강성(G), 전단이력(2HG5), 표면마찰계수(MIU)등을 증가시켰으며 표면거칠기(SMD)는 감소시켰다. 압축특성은 처리농도의 영향을 받아서 고농도의 자외선 흡수제 처리는 압축특성을 감소시켰으며, 저농도의 처리는 압축특성을 증가시켰다. 자외 선 흡수제 처리는 처리농도에 상관없이 면직물의 fullness/softness를 유의하게 증가시키는 반면 stiffness, crispness및 anti-drape stiffness를 감소시켜서 가공포의 종합태(THV)는 가공 전에 비하여 저하하였다. 자외선 조사는 가공 전 면직물의 경우 B, 2HB, G, 2HG, 2HG5, LC를 감소시켰다. 자외선 조사는 처리농도와 상관없이 가공포의 WT, 굽힘특성 , 전단특성을 감소시켰으며, 저농도의 흡수제 처리포의 경우 SMD를 증가시켰으며, 고농도의 흡수제 처리포의 경우 SMD를 감소시켰다. 자외선 조사는 처리농도와 상관없이 가공포의fullness/softness, stiffness, anti-drape stiffness를 유의하게 감소시켜서 자외선 조사 전 보다 THV가 37% 저하하였고 미 가공포의 THV를 저하율보다는 저하가 낮았다. 자외선 흡수제 처리에 의해 면직물의 태는 가공 전보다 감소하지만, 자외선 흡수제 처리는 자외선 조사에 의한 태 감소율을 낮추는 데 유의 한 효과가 있다.