• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.8
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• pp.946-957
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• 2003

This study aimed to suggest a simple and well-fitting flat pattern drafting method for a men's jacket. Four jackets in thick muslin were made from four different drafting methods utilizing a few measures as breast girth, center back length, and chest width, which were not much different from the drafting methods of woman's jacket. The appearance of the 4 jackets was evaluated by a pool of evaluators consisted of graduate students who had much clothing construction teaching experiences and their motion adaptability was evaluated by two wearers who belonged within the range of the average measures of the Korean male figure as reported from the 1997's Census for Standard Body Measure. A drafting method evaluated as the most well-fitting and well-functioning in general was chosen and modified to enhance the appearance and was reevaluated to confirm its fit improvement. As a result of this study, a new drafting method, simple and not much different from that of a woman's jacket pattern drafting method is proposed. Since this method is based on the minimal measures and ratios thereof, and is not as complicated as ordinary drafting methods for men's wear, the researcher expects that this drafting method allows more chances for the students to learn and understand men's wear more easily and comfortably.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.34 no.2
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• pp.367-378
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• 1996

The purpose of this study was to utilize of the CAD system in pattern making process for women's bodice sloper, especially in education of the drafting. Accumark 540 System was used for this study. The drafting program was developed by the use of macro program in CAD system. The results from this study : 1. The Lim Won Ja's system of bodice sloper was selected in this study. The hand drafting of the system was arranged developing the macro program of bodice sloper. 2. The program consists of eight subprograms I sequence of the drafting order. In running this developed program, proper figure is drafted by inputing data. And the drafting process is automatically presented in interactive mode. 3. It has been developed to input the function of French Curve Ruler to increase the effectiveness of curved line treatment. The program can also be used in the curve part to present the manualy sensible function. 4. In case of education of drafting bodice sloper, the program provides the high accuracy, efficiency and a strong interest nterest in pattern making process by utilizing CAD system.

• Korean Institute of Interior Design Journal
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• no.18
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• pp.16-22
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• 1999

The purpose of this study is to analyze the drafting process by using AutoCAD for the basic course as well as to suggest the educational basic data of CAD in interior desigv. This research is to show not only practical use of CAD as a drafting tool function, but offering optimizing ways of AutoCAD command usage. The method used for this study is based on an analyzing of 6 types of total 98 types AutoCAD tutorial manual in CAD section of Kyobo book center. After the analysis of the AutoCAD command usage in creating floor plan, characteristics of drafting process is nearly the same as traditional drafting process. It means that traditional drafting process grafted on to computer aided drafting process. And the practical usage of AutoCAD command type is Draw, Modify, Format and View command in creating floor plav. That is emphasis on a specific functiov. Therefore, it should be developed basic course program which adapted various function of AutoCAD.

• Proceedings of the Korean Fiber Society Conference
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• 1987.06b
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• pp.34-34
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• 1987

Investigation has been carried out on the physical properties of several cotton rovings in various drafting conditions, such as twist, draft ratio and roller gauge. Drafting force and tensile strength were measured and analyzed by the statistical method like 3 factorial design. The correlations between drafting force and tensile strength were also examined. It was known that all factors effected on the drafting force and tensile strength of rovings. But the linear and quadratic effect of factors were found different results.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.256-267
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• 2013

This study is conducted to improve the fitness of Air Force winter service uniforms pants through the development of a pants pattern drafting method and automatic pattern drafting program for mass customization. The initial study pattern drafting method is formed through an analyses of 4 kinds of conventional pants pattern drafting methods for education and 3 kinds of conventional pants patterns of Air Force apparels. The initial study pattern drafting method is converted into the final study pattern drafting method after twice conducting a wearing test. To verify the final study pants pattern, a motion adaptability evaluation, an ease amount evaluation and an appearance evaluation are conducted. The results of the final study patterns were better than conventional winter service uniforms in the motion adaptability evaluation and the appearance evaluation. However, the results show similar values between the final study patterns and conventional winter service uniform patterns in the ease amount evaluation. An automatic pattern drafting program was developed based on the final study pattern drafting method. The program allowed the achievement of customized pants patterns through the placement of customer body sizes into the size input window. It also provided two kinds of ease amount and two kinds of waist belt level options.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.23 no.5
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• pp.634-644
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• 2021

This study aims to propose various ways to utilize CLO, which focuses mainly on the production of 3D virtual samples, by comparing it with the pattern drafting functions of Four apparel CAD experts, who have teaching experience in YUKA and CLO, participated in a focus group interview, and a basic bodice prototype drafting was carried out by each participant to evaluate the pattern drafting functions of YUKA and CLO. The result of this study showed that the pattern drafting tools of YUKA are subdivided since YUKA is a CAD tool inherently specialized in pattern making. Though CLO provided a relatively limited pattern drafting menu compared to YUKA, it was found that pattern drafting could be accomplished with the help of supplementary tools and functions. This finding suggests that each CAD offers the corresponding tools for the same use of menus or functions in the prototype drafting process. The major difference between YUKA and CLO is that YUKA defines the pattern area by a set of line segments, whereas CLO utilizes an outline composed of closed curves. YUKA provides various specific tools according to the options such as angles, straight lines, and curves, while CLO produces the same results using combinations of a limited number of tools. Compared with YUKA, the advantage of CLO is its user-friendly task environment such as the Windows-based user interface, from the usability perspective. This study concludes that pattern drafting education using CLO would help not only industrial 3D design practitioners but also pattern education in academia

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.11
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• pp.1271-1284
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• 2011

This study improves the fitness of Air Force winter service uniforms through the development of a shirt pattern drafting method and automatic pattern drafting program for MTM production. A calculation formula is formed through a correlation analysis and regression analysis using Size Korea 2004 3D measurement data after analyzing 4 kinds of existing shirt pattern drafting methods and 3 types of shirt patterns currently used for the Air Force service uniform. The results of this study are as follows: The developed pattern drafting method has 4 parts that use calculated dimensions: neck base width, front interscye, back interscye and scye depth. Other body measuring parts that have a high correlation with calculation parts are inserted into regression analysis as independent variables to create dimension calculation formulas. The result of the final study patterns were better than existing winter service uniforms in nearly all items for the appearance evaluation and motion adaptability evaluations. The method was converted into an automatic pattern drafting program using C++ after the completion of pattern drafting method development.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.146-157
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• 2006

Traditional spinning systems have reached profitability limits in developed countries due to high production costs and low system productivity. Pneumatic spinning is seen as a developing system, because productivity is much higher than conventional systems. This study evaluates one of the main problems to increase productivity in pneumatic spinning, where air mass-flow is dragged by the drafting cylinders. This flow interacts with the incoming fibres deviating them from their expected path. Via laser anemometry, airflow velocity distribution around drafting cylinders has been measured and it has been found that vorticity is created at the cylinder's inlet. Extensive CFD simulation on the air flow dragged by the cylinders has given a clear insight into the vortex created, producing valuable information on how cylinder design affects the vorticity created. Several drafting cylinder designs have been tested without giving any improvement in productivity. However, the use of a drafting cylinder with holes in it produced good results to the problem of air currents, strongly reducing them and therefore allowing a sharp increase in yarn quality, as well as an increase in productivity. An extensive study on vortex kinematics has been undertaken, bringing with it a better understanding of vortex creation, development and breakdown.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.27 no.6
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• pp.599-614
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• 2019

The aim of this study to provide basic reference data for the development of video contents used in pattern drafting education and to explore the possibility of utilizing YouTube videos in such education. Subject videos were selected using the number of views. A total of 596 videos and 28 channels were analyzed for the period July to September 2019 and the results are as follows. With regard to content, there were 27 pattern drafting items, the majority being dress, pants, skirt, blouse and sleeve drafting, although high-level content such as cowl, bustier, corset patterns were also available. Therefore, there is a high likelihood that YouTube videos could be used as educational material, especially as supplementary references to provide specific examples and easy explanations for difficult concepts or method, for students majoring in this field. However, as most videos currently focus on a few items, expanding video content to features a wider variety of clothing items at different levels is necessary. With regard to video length, it mostly ranged from 10 to 15 minutes. It is not advisable to create lengthy lecture-style videos expounding on different principles or variations in pattern drafting when developing educational video material.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.23 no.6
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• pp.744-757
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• 2021

This study aims to develop a bodice and a jacket in 3D of the late 19th to early 20th based on the pattern drafting book of Gordon S. S., which contains body measurement method and pattern drafting system. The findings of this research are as follows. First, female tops of the late 19th to early 20th century are categorized as outer, jacket, vest, and bodice. Of these, this study highlights the jacket, which can be divided into 4 types: 4 kinds of basic jacket, 2 kinds of riding jacket, bolero jacket, and newmarket jacket. Second, by referring to Gordon's pattern drafting system and book, a bodice was developed in 3D format based on the adherence to the following steps: analysis of the pattern drafting system, pattern drafting, 3D virtual simulation, 3D virtual fitting analysis, and the pattern correction. A bodice pattern corrected by 3D virtual clothing simulation results was proposed. Last, a basic sleeve and collar pattern for a basic jacket was drafted, which was followed by the correction and transformation of the bodice pattern. The jacket developed shows great fit except for the issues at the armhole line and shoulder, which were caused by the unique shape of the sleeves(big sleeve head) of the time. The study attempted to develop the past costumes in 3D, providing the basis for interdisciplinary research in the field of fashion history field and suggesting a new approach for the virtual restoration of costumes. Future studies should target to 3D virtual simulation in accordance to the 3D avatar pose in the developed virtual costume.