• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.34 no.3
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• pp.146-156
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• 2022

In this study, the dyeing properties of double knit fabric composed of PET/PTT bi-component fiber and quick dry fiber were examined with disperse dyes. In addition, the shrinkage characteristics were investigated during the dyeing process. The K/S values and shrinkage rate of PET/PTT bi-component fiber were higher than those of PET/co-PET bi-component fiber and quick dry fiber. In the dye bath, dye migration of exhausted on PET/PTT bi-component fiber to quick dry fiber was found at high dyeing temperature. It was not found that there was a significant difference in K/S value on dyeing temperature between 115℃ and 130℃. But the slight color difference of two sides of a double knit fabric was found.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.20 no.2
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• pp.53-58
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• 2008

New dyeable PP fiber and several products from it has been developed through dispersing polyester copolymer into PP resin by a Korean synthetic fiber manufacturer and its colleagues. The dyeing properties of PET/dyeable PP double knit fabric were examined with three different types of disperse dye in this study. It was found that the disperse dye, exhausted on dyeable PP at early stage of dyeing, migrated to PET at elevated dyeing temperature when two fibers were dyed in the same dye bath. The ratios of dye distribution between two substrates dyed at $120^{\circ}C$ and $130^{\circ}C$ showed no difference. S type disperse dyes showed good build-up properties and acceptable color fastness while high light fastness type exhibited the lowest amounts of exhaustion but excellent color fastness. It might be concluded that the most appropriate dye for PET/dyeable PP double knit fabric was S type, and that some color difference between PET side and dyeable PP side was unvoidable.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.28 no.8
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• pp.1153-1164
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to knitted nine kinds of single knit and examined mechanical properties and hand to provide the fact that knit, tuck and miss stitch applied to various structure have an effect on hand of weft knitted fabrics. It was good to use tuck stitch rather than miss stitch to increase elasticity of knitted fabrics. As tuck stitch and miss stitch were double or triple overlaps, tensile resilence(RT) decreased by increase of friction contacted among stitch. As cross tuck stitch and cross miss stitch were knitted double or triple, bending rigidity(B), hysteresis of bending moment(2HB) and shearing(G) properties increased by jamming of stitch. As tuck stitch and miss stitch were overlap, thickness increased and they became thicker than miss stitch. Also, as they became thicker by these tuck stitch and miss stitch, compressional energy(WC) increased. It appeared that coefficient of friction(MIU) of cross tuck stitch was larger than coefficient of cross miss stitch. Mean deviation of surface roughness(SMD) had a tendency to be larger as tuck stitch and miss stitch increased. As cross tuck stitch and cross miss stitch were overlaps double or triple, KOSHI and FUKURAMI increased, total hand value(TIV) and NUMERI appeared high in double cross tuck stitch and double cross miss stitch.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.37-48
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• 2019

WKSF (Warp-knitted spacer fabrics) knitted using a double Raschel machine is the three-dimensional knit that has vertically connected separate layers in loop structures. Because of its unique structure, the fabric is light, compressible and breathable. Owing to the high production speed, the use of the fabric is increasing in various areas. The purpose of this study is to establish the design process in the utilization of WKSF program and analyze the difference between WKSF and Neoprene as garment materials.. The study on the design related to WKSF has rarely been carried out because of the complexity of WKSF structure and the difficulties encountered in analyzing the structure and thread. Therefore, checking beforehand the simulation results similar to a final knit using the CAD program for WKSF can only enhance the efficiency of the design for the light knits. The conclusion drawn after designing the light knits using the CAD program and analyzing the pros and cons of WKSF through the various property evaluation techniques is as follows. The tension characteristic analysis results indicated that Neoprene specimen has the elastic transformation and resilience, thus behaving like an elastic product such as rubber. By contrast, in the event that clothing and fashion accessories are designed with WKSF, these products are kept in a boxy style fit so that the fabric can be applied flexibly to a curvy body line. In addition, WKSF is good in forming noticeably around a curvy body, because its resistance shear deformation is lower than that of Neoprene.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.111-121
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• 2012

This study focused on the plane and side drape coefficients of weft knitted fabrics as a function of knit structure, stitch density, and stiffness. Fifteen weft knitted fabrics are produced with five different structures (interlock, single pique, royal interlock, cross miss interlock, and mock royal interlock) and three different gauges (7G, 10G, and 12G). Five knit structures were the application of knit, tuck, and miss stitch on the basis of interlock of the double knit fabric For this purpose, three-dimensional shapes of the draped sample were obtained by using a drapability tester which can record the contour line coordinates of a projected plane drape. Then, projected shapes of the plane and side drape were derived from those three-dimensional ones to review the relationship between plane drape coefficients and side ones. It was found that the theoretical values of plane and side drape coefficients depending on the change of deflection angles fit to their experimental ones. A5 a result of a regression analysis of the relationship between plane and side drape coefficients, the relationship could be expressed as $y=0.5838x-0.0065x^2+9.03{\times}10^{-5}x^3$. In case of mean of drape coefficient, it was increased according to the rule of that the more tuck and miss stitch overlap. A high degree of correlation was found between stiffness and drape coefficient. The regression equation of drape coefficient($y$) can be represented by $y=y=\sqrt[3]{Stiffness}-10.72$.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.40 no.5
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• pp.844-854
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• 2016

In order to understand the current state of production and pattern design of circular knitted jackets, this study selected 11 female clothing brands based from the "2012/2013 Korea Fashion Brand Yearbook" and interviewed the staff in charge of patterns at the companies. Polyester and polyurethane were found to be synthesized and used for the outshell of circular knitted jackets, alternatively natural fabric cotton or wool were synthesized with rayon. As for the structure of circular knitted materials, Ponte Di Roma knitting structure (a modified form of a double knit) was most often used. Surveying the use pattern and the parts for padding cloth, six responded that they used elastic padding cloth. As for circular knitted jackets with inner lining, elastic padding cloth was attached to all parts (front, back, side panel, and collar - except for sleeves) of the basic bodice pattern. Eight responded that they did not use a basic pattern when designing a pattern, which exceeds the majority. All respondents answered yes to the question on if there is any difference in designing a pattern for a woven jacket and a circular knitted jacket. It was found that they designed a pattern that considered shrinkage and elongation, which are the features of circular knitted fabric. Shrinkage and elongation were the features of a fabric material most considered when designing patterns for a circular knitted jacket.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.6
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• pp.776-786
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• 2016

This study intends to suggest production process of circular knitted jackets and dimensional change data of finished clothes after washing. the study provides pattern design method of circular knitted jackets by applying dimensional change. By doing so, the purpose of this study is to increase production efficiency through accurate order in consideration of loss amount of the fabrics in production. With the three fabric materials selected, this study investigated dimensional change of circular knitted jackets after sewing and washing by varying the parts to be attached to padding cloth and with or without inner lining. As for the fabric F-C (including the spandex, thicker and weightier than the other two fabrics), front width shrunk by 4.6%, which showed the biggest shrinkage among the jackets made of test fabrics. Then it suggested design methods of circular knitted jacket patterns to which dimensional change is applied according to materials, and analyzed the amount of fabric required for production by comparison of the materials. When using the fabric F-C without inner lining, there is big dimensional change and more than double amount of fabric is required. It is expected that the research results will be a basic data for pattern design and production process of circular knitted clothing.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.34 no.4
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• pp.224-233
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• 2022

Recently, consumer tastes of various classes at home and abroad prefer comfortable, unadorned, and simple clothing, and the athleisure trend, which can be used freely in daily life as well as exercise, has expanded to overall clothing products. Existing materials used for athleisure are composite knitted fabrics using polyester yarn and PU yarn, which has problems due to a chronic lack of color fastness and contamination by dyes even when PU laminating is applied, making it difficult to apply various colors. There is a quality problem in which deformation of the product occurs due to lack of durability. In this study, CDP yarn(75de/72f) and PU yarn(40de) were selected to commercialize the circular knitting for athleisure using CDP yarn in order to solve the problems that occur in the dyeing and laminating process when using polyester materials. CDP yarns were used to knit into single(CP75-S) and double(CP75-D) knit and single knit were found to be suitable as athleisure fabrics. After pretreatment and treatment under various conditions, the stainability of CDP circular knitting was examined. After pretreatment and dyeing process under various conditions, the property of scouring and dyeability of CP75-S were evaluated.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.28 no.6
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• pp.787-800
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• 2020

This study aims to derive the criteria of folding techniques and their characteristics through analysis of literature and previous studies. This will be realized by performing a case study on male fashion design and folding. It will propose diverse directions and data for male fashion design, by making men's jackets using a folding technique. The concept and terms of folding were clarified through examination of existing literature and previous studies. Specifically, four pieces were created with motifs of the four seasons. Among the types of pleats expressed in the works, composition pleats include double ruffles, gathers, and draperies, while processed ones include box pleats, knife pleats, and accordion pleats. This study expresses continuity, fluidity, scalability, and ambiguity through the use of such pleats. The results of the production are as follows. First, in terms of the continuous use of regular and repetitive pleats, a possibility of rich pleats was confirmed because they varied depending on the gap between the pleat and target material. Second, in liquid but irregular pleats, diverse moods were created by the pleat movement. The overlapping of repeated pleats expresses diverse spaces and shapes in a 3D extended silhouette. Third, in pleat classification, ambiguity was confirmed with the use of continuous accordion pleats in the printed gradation fabric. It is anticipated that more diverse and creative designs could be created using more extended techniques in future studies.