The Purpose of this study is to search the characteristics of aesthetic sense from the spiritual root of anti-decoration culture in contemporary Japanese fashion and find the aesthetic meanings inside contemporary Japanese fashion. This study considered contemporary Japanese fashion design from 1970 to 2000 to figure out the anti-decoration culture in contemporary Japanese fashion. The contents of this study are 1. surveying the historical change about the aesthetic sense of Japanese anti-decoration culture. 2. deducing the distinctive aesthetic ideology from the anti-decoration culture 3. finding aesthetically the inside meaning of anti-decoration culture in contemporary Japanese fashion. The conclusion on this study is as the followings. Anti-decoration culture has three aesthetic ideology. First, faintful aesthetics implies the aesthetic ideologies of Wabi, Sabi from Heian period and it appears the aesthetic sense to be natural beauty. simplicity, minimalism and temperance. Second, ambivalence aesthetics is based on nothingness and has the characteristic of multivocal and variableness without biased view. Third. playful aesthetics has the meaning of humorous. witty and mischievous which is the basic factor of Japanese formative arts. The aesthetic range of this study are the beauty of simplicity. poverty, incompletion, vagueness and humor. First, beauty of simplicity is composed of minimal lines and area through strict temperance and elimination. Second, beauty of poverty came from the aesthetic concept of Wabi which means honorable poverty and plainness. Third, beauty of incompletion means emptiness which is within the range of possibility. Forth, beauty of vagueness could be explained as incorporeal, colorlessness and voiceless. Fifth, Okashi which was the middle ages in Japan, shows the vein of humor in anti-decoration culture. As a result, anti-decoration culture does not mean the opposite of decoration culture, but accomplishes extreme artificial beauty by strict temperance and elimination. Also it is concerned as intentional poverty of decorative effect.
Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
/
v.19
no.3
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pp.75-87
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2017
Sensitivity has become more important in relation to design in the changing social environment and atmosphere. In the West, the concept of aesthetics has long been established but in the East, only in the seventeenth and eighteenth century China did the discussion begin. In Korea, where the first scholarly discussion on aesthetics began around 1929, more and more rigorous and theoretical discussions are emerging now. Korean beauty consists of the beauty of no-artfulness and the beauty of natural artfulness. Japanese beauty consists of the beauty of half-articulation and the beauty of articulation. While both Korea and Japan base their sense of beauty on nature, Korea emphasizes nature as it is while Japan values artful decorative elements. Especially in modern Korean fashion, the characteristic Korean aesthetics of un-artfulness appears in various expressive techniques such as the movement with natural gathering, the use of natural materials like cotton, the harmonization of black and white, and a simplified silhouette. In Japanese fashion, one can see techniques such as: the beauty of half-articulation expressed through the ambiguity of shapes, colors, and genders or simplicity and paucity using straight lines, the beauty of articulation expressed with bright flower prints and ornaments, accessories of Obi and feathers and the transformed silhouette.
Most of these cultural spaces are Western architecture which is completely unrelated to our traditional style. In Japan's colonial rule of Korea these Western formation flowed in and passed on by them. Therefore before the understanding of modem cultural space built in Japan's colonial rule of Korea, it's essential to study about the background of the western period in that time, architecture and trend of interior. Due to Great Depression and other reasons the economical modernism of architecture raised in this period. In this thesis, based on such background of period, cultural space has been divided into assembly, theatre and exhibition spaces. Those spaces were studied according to its expressional characteristics and brought to following conclusion from the analysis. The cultural spaces were created around 1930 due to an increase of demand when the modernism started to establish. Like other buildings cultural space expressed modernized elevation and space formation with ferroconcrete building. However until Japan's colonial period the cultural areas were not used for public but for Japanese authority class's social gatherings only. Consequently, unlike other buildings the classical elements that could express these characters were more used in cultural spaces especially in theater and exhibition areas. This distinctiveness didn't appear separately but according to type of rooms in one space. Once more, place like assembly space was expressed with modernism, special or recreation rooms where people pursue a comfort were expressed with decorative style. Also a special theater which was used for only one person was generally expressed with western style to represent the stem character such as power.
To analyze the characteristics of Orientalism which is expressed in the fashion of the 1990's this study was examined according to three aspects such as form textiles and pattern and the aspects was considered with regard to Chinese Indian Japanese Korean, Southeas Asian and North African style. 1. In form Orientalism which is influenced by latest other fashion trend; Naturalism and Minimalism is expressed as a comfortable casual style which simplifies the way of wearing and mixes the characteristic elements of folk costume with western costume. The way of layerd wearing like knotting wrapping draping and the symbolic from which is inspired by the unique are of each country are shown. 2. In textiles Chinese Japanese and Indian silk as well as Southeast Asian and North African cotton show a splendid oriental impression using vivid color. On the other hand the linens of Korea like hemp and ramie emphasize natural characteristics and show a simple and unartificial oriental beauty. But in the use of material and color it shows a remarkable tendency to break the preconceived idea by coordinating a luxurious silk with a practical denim or harmonizing technical new-masterials with traditional materials. 3. In pattern the decorative elements of Orientalism such as a traditional pattern skills to dye embroidery and other decorations are emphasized on the form of western costume. The sketchy patterns of Chinese Korean and Japanese styles which include the pattern of a flower a bamboo and a butterfly are expressed using embroidery or textile printing. The geometrical seriate patterns of Southeast Asian and North African styles use traditional dyeing methods like Batik. Also the Indian technique of decoration like Mirro Work satisfies handcrafted royalty and feminine romantic taste in modern minimal fashion. The Orientalism expressed in the fashion of 1990's emphasizes the characteristics of people wearing colthing which break the preconceived idea by simplifying the form harmonizing differences between oriental and western cultures and mixing the elements of traditional costumes among countries. Most of all. Ethno using geonmetrical seriate pattern and technical new metal material and Romantic Ethnic using flower embroidery precious stones and beads are appearing as a distinctinve feature.
Gianni Versace was a designer who established his unique fashion world by thinking creatively and using rich design sources. The purpose of this study is to present designers a methodology for creative and characteristic design development by searching Gianni Versace's idea source for fashion design. As a method of the study, visual and textual data were investigated for Versace's fashion and design source especially focusing on those elements that inspired him. Versace was born in the southern area of Italy in 1946. Ever since his childhood, he had a lot of experience with clothes because his mother was a dressmaker. His first collection was made in 1978, and Versace became one of the most famous fashion designers in the world within 20 years. He used a wide range of design sources such as history, culture, and art and created his design world with it. He focused on four important epochs. They were classicism, Byzantium, the eighteenth century centering on Baroque, and the 1920s and 1930s centering on Madeleine Vionnet and Madame Gres. Among cultural elements, costume design for ballet and opera and rock 'n' roll music inspired him greatly. Also, Pop art and various paintings such as Chagall's and Delaunay's had a huge effect on Versace. With these elements, he created a bold and unique coordination of style by mixing & matching history, genre, material, and style into his design. Thus he completed an extraordinary and original fashion style by emphasizing on decorative and glamorous points and changing a way of thinking.
The Buddhist cave temple carved into the rock provides a large space for the ritual in general in which a structure of Stupa is built in the center of the space purely for religious worship empty of Sarira, and the temple is formed around this Stupa. Relief-Stupa of the cave temple indicates the similar shape that of Relief-religious worship of flat land temple. However, there appears a small difference in representation since the background of formation of the cave temple differs in that of flat land temple. Specially, Caitya Stupa of currently existing cave temples have been damaged to lose of their original shape only possible to be analyzed the stylistic development through Relief-Stupa from which the characteristic of Stupa could be understood. The early cave temple could be characterized with a balanced structure consists of upturn bowl, steeple stone with simple drum & Hamikawasnagae, in which it appears strongly the detail factor characteristics of drum & steeple of having system with Caitya Stupa. In the post cave temple, the subject of worship moved to statue of Buddha due to the influence of Gandhara, Mathura art which reduced the importance of Stupa. This illustrates in Relief-stupa as well the style change as well as changes in detail factor. The sculpture appeared at the limited location either the wall of Caitya shrine or pillar in vihara cave with stronger decorative meaning. Contrast to the Relief Stupa of early flat land temples or the cave temples mentioned above sculptured with symbolism, however, the post cave temple showed the relief structure based on the plan of flat plan.
Lacquerware of Goryeo period was variously developed from the early 10th century to the 14th century and became lacquerware inlaid with mother-of-pearl which shows creativity with splendid heyday. For characteristics, splendid and close mother-of-pearl. Characteristic of decoration method is to use gold painting method, Tortoise shell and metal line. Drawing is done with gold dust and gold painting method decorating lacquerware are very splendid from an artistic and decorative aspect, but gold painting is easily lost. So, it's currently difficult to find in relics succeeded. Therefore, there are domestically insufficient studies on gold painting method in Goryeo period, so this researcher intended to observe gold painting of lacquerware excavated in Goryeo period through the microscope, investigate characteristics, mixture, etc. of gold dust and provide data of studies on the recovery of ancient technology. As the result, gold dust particle has various shapes such as irregular square, polygon and triangle under the size from 2 ㎛ to 20 ㎛. The end of gold dust is rolled and overlapped and irregular particle seems to be similar to the shape of crumpled paper. This research showed that gold dust used in gold painting of Goryeo period had used gold dust made by grinding gold leaf to gold painting.
International exchange gets active in nations with the increase of Internet use and heading toward digital age. Thus the communication conveying image of nations effectively plays an important role in an international society. Sports events are regarded as important international exchange events and good opportunities for public relations of one's own country and taken as tools of planting good images in other nations. This study surveyed the concept and history of uniform through the documents and previous studies in order to find the aesthetic characteristics of sportswear uniform applying the image of national ensign and investigates the origin and start time in Korea of selected 6 sports items. As a result of finding the expression way of ensign image and drawing the aesthetic characteristics by analyzing the use and variation of ensign colors, the use of colors other than ensign and reflection of ensign form in collected 60 sports uniforms, this study could draw the symbolical beauty, beauty of variation and beauty of brevity. First, symbolical beauty is the aesthetic characteristics expressing uniforms by using the pattern ensign symbolizes and ensign colors themselves or enlarging a part of ensign. Second, beauty of variation is the aesthetic characteristics creating geometrical new patterns in uniform through the distortion and exaggeration of ensign shape, or transforming the colors themselves of ensign. Third, beauty of brevity is the aesthetic characteristics using other colors only as decorative factor while applying the main colors of ensign to the most part of uniform, or unifying the uniforms with only one color of ensign. As a result of survey, the proportion of the symbolical beauty was highest in summer season and beauty of brevity and beauty of variation followed and the proportion of beauty of variation was highest and the symbolical beauty and beauty of brevity followed after that in winter season. This study found the way of expressing image of one's own country in sports uniform through this article, expecting the exact recognition on sports uniform and the diversity of sports uniform design in which the images of the nation are expressed more variously.
The purpose of this study is to investigate historical and geographical environments in the development of the Naxi costumes of Chinese ethnic minorities and their characteristics-including religious cultures and totem worship-and to suggest the direction of fashion design toward the modernization of traditional costumes. The research methodology involved the collection of materials and investigatation into the history, culture, and characteristics of Naxi costumes; in particular, the "seven-star" sheepskin cape, one of the Naxi people's important ethnic costumes as demonstrated by the women's clothing that has been designed in reflection of this traditional costume. The results are as follows. First, Naxi costumes are found to have overall coherence and distinct locality when retained in the process of modernizing the traditional costume. The theme of this work is titled "By the Light of the Moon and the Stars," which is expressed in contemporary fashion by the use of grey and dark red against a background of black, a color preferred by the Naxi people. Second, the Naxi people's seven-star sheepskin cape is a symbol of women's clothing with its characteristic patterns, shapes, and colors, and it is subject to creative modernization while retaining its unique ethnic characteristics. Third, the work expresses the contemporary stylishness of the costume while maintaining the customary decorative accessories from the Naxi people's traditional culture.
Gyeongju, the capital of Silla, is the very essence of the culture and technology of the thousand-year-reign of Silla. However, few studies have been conducted on the landscape sites of the capital of Silla other than Donggung Palace and Wolji Pond, due to the lack of related data. Therefore, this study examined the construction characteristics and nature of the garden pond in Guhwang-dong, whose complete appearance was identified through excavation following Donggung Palace and Wolji Pond. Since the excavation of the garden pond in Guhwang-dong, Gyeongju, there have been disagreements in academia as to whether it is a palace pond or a temple pond of Bunhwangsa Temple. Considering the unique characteristic of the garden pond that it is divided into two periods, it was interpreted that it would have functioned as a ritual facility related to Ryong (oriental dragon) belief in the 6th to 7th centuries, the first period, and as a garden pond with enhanced landscaping functions in the 8th to 9th centuries, the second period. In addition, it is highly probable that it was the site of Cheongyeongung Palace (青淵宮) and Jochujeong Pavilion (造秋亭) mentioned in the literature records. The "ㄹ"- shaped waterway, a characteristic facility of the first period, was found; however, considering its width and depth, it is insufficient to conclude that it was a simple drainage facility. Rather, it is more likely that it functioned as a passageway for the conceptual entry of Ryong during Ryong rituals. Furthermore, some have suggested that it may have been a ceremony-related Yusang-goksu (流觴曲水) facility. These facilities related to Ryong rituals were reorganized in the second period. Specifically, the nature of the garden pond was changed centered on the landscaping function in connection with the addition of a curved revetment, garden stone, and pavilion buildings, and the dismantlement of the "ㄹ"-shaped waterway and hexagonal building. As for nature, it can be regarded as a royal facility in terms of decorative elements including the ritual function of the first period and the gwimyeonwa (ghost face tiles) of the second period. Judging from the fact that the upper part of the embankment adjacent to the west side of the site was removed, it is very apparent that the main building was located on the upper part of the embankment. There would not have been a large-scale building site because it served the functions of ritual and recreation, rather than being the residence of the king.
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