• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.45 no.3
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• pp.409-422
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• 2021

A doctor's coat worn by Seo Jae-pil (1864-1951)-National Registered Cultural Heritage No. 607-was conserved with wet cleaning to remove thick wrinkles and brown stains that had been present for a long time. This paper also applied microscopic observation and infrared spectrophotometric analysis to obtain scientific investigation data on the cotton fabric of this doctor's coat. Information about Seo Jae-pil's time as a doctor, the process of changing his English name, and C.D.Williams & Co., which produced the medical coat, revealed that this doctor's coat was worn by Seo Jae-pil between 1892 and 1898 or 1926 and 1939. Additionally, this paper proposes a pad for filling relics that can protect the shape of modern and contemporary clothing, such as Seo Jae-pil's doctor's coat, for display at a museum site. Specifically, this research provides detailed information on the manufacturing of filling pads that can prevent damage to modern and contemporary jackets and coats so that they can be used in the cultural heritage field by developing filling materials for three-dimensional costume artifacts.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.93-100
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• 2016

This paper aimed to provide the basic data on consumers' purchasing tendency required to start and operate online shopping malls on internet. The survey selected the female college students from 19 to 24 years old majoring fabric and fashion design in colleges in Gyeonggi-do. Total 283 questionnaires were selected for statistical analysis. The analysis results are presented below. The first online shopping was during the middle school times showing the highest responses as 63.54%, followed by high school times, college times and elementary school times in that sequence. Most female college students(97.88%) purchased goods from online shopping malls. The purposes of search in online shopping malls were 'need to purchase goods(47.18%)', 'habit/hobbies(27.57%)', 'need to collect data on goods(20.27%)' and 'to relieve stresses(4.98%)'. About 50% of respondents selected 'I visit mainly several online shopping malls. If there is no goods that I try to find, I search other sites and purchase what I want to buy(46.57%).' For the goods purchased from online shopping malls, everyday wears showed the highest ratio, 85.92%. About the time to purchase goods related to trends, most respondents selected 'purchase whenever it is necessary without respect to trends(87%).' Main considerations when the respondents purchased the goods from online shopping malls were 'design(64.98%)', 'price(18.41%)', 'quality(11.20%)', 'company recognition(2.53%)', 'color(1.44%)', and 'materials (1.44%)' in that sequence. 64.62% of respondents had the experience of returning goods after purchasing from online shopping malls. The reason why the respondents returned goods after purchasing from online shopping malls was mainly 'because of size(52.17%)', the response with the highest ratio. 42.24% responded that they experienced damage by washing the goods purchased from online shopping malls. It was found that the respondents didn't think about the country of manufacturing when purchasing goods from online shopping malls.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
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• v.4 no.1 s.7
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• pp.4-11
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• 2006

Masstige goods aimed consumers who want the fame and the emotional contents with reasonable price are presented overall and around the life style, from all the fashion items like bag and apparel to car, electric household, food, sports goods, furniture, toys, pets and performance of art, etc. Masstige casual, essentially different from the passed casuals which emphasized only price strategy, appeals to teenagers and young of twenties with a definite brand concept. Therefore masstige casual might be separated from business casual of a target aged thirties. Established celebrity brands have launched masstige brands matching the popularization of prestige goods. Armani Exchange from Armani, Marc by Marc Jacobs from Louis Vuitton are representative ones. DKNY from Donna Karen, MiuMiu from Prada, Paul smith Pink from Paul Smith can be added. These are relatively inexpensive, however the quality, design and shop's atmosphere are more exclusive than general brands. Consumers are over middle class and have a pride and fidelity to those brands. Leading Masstige trend, new luxury brands put the importance to the quality and aims middle class. To succeed in this field, companies should know exactly what consumers want, considering not only functional aspect but also emotional pleasure. Even though masstige has a weakness in pricing, it has to keep brand's proper benefit. Its price range could be wide to be in great demand but has to have elasticity and not to be expanded too much. Masstige industry should do its best not to damage original brand's identity. Forming family brand, like Armani made Georgic Armani, Emporio Armani and Armani exchange, system of parent brand and sub brands would be recommendable. From the launching time, masstige needs the effects to create a sensation and bring it into vogue and offer emotional value to the consumers.

• Conservation Science in Museum
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• v.14
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• pp.91-113
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• 2013

Cheongpung Buwongun Kim Wu-myeong's Funeral Bier, an important folklore cultural property No.120, possessed by Chuncheon National Museum was donated in 2002 (by Kim Seonggu). It consists of a bier, yoyeo(腰輿), myeongjeongdae(銘旌臺), and manjangdae(輓章臺). It has a high value as the oldest royal bier. The bier which had a resting time in the storage for special exhibition of "The great cultural treasure of Gangwon province" was inspected in September 2012 and colored pigment layer of the wooden part had the risk of peeling off and surface damage of the textile was serious. Therefore, conservation treatment was conducted. In addition, knots and susiks(垂飾) were severely damaged and their exhibition was impossible. Therefore, a reproduction to replace them through a close investigation was made. All parts of the funeral bier were in separation except for the basic furniture. Conservation was made by dividing the parts into wooden parts and textile parts. Yoyeo was reinforced after disassembling bujae from it and then was reassembled. Paraloid B-72 2 wt% (in ethyle acetate), acrylic resin, was applied to the wooden part of the bier in order to reinforce the colored pigment layer with the addition of sodium alginate 2 wt%(in stilled water) and glue 4 wt%(in stilled water). The pollutants on the surface of the textile part were removed (vacuuming) and its creases were smoothed out (steaming). Fat-soluble pollutants were removed using an nonionic surfactant(Saponin, concentration at 0.25 to 0.5 g/𝑙, in de-ionized water). After the disassembly of the yoyeo from the broken wooden, it was bonded with glue (3 wt% for the first gluing, 35 wt% for gluing), and pine wood was used to restore missing parts. In the process of connecting Wongak(雲角), the original metal hinge and nails were reused to complete the assembly.

• 보존과학연구
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• s.34
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• pp.20-29
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• 2013

Paper, textile and wood materials are mainly consisted of cellulose. Cellulose is high molecule and make up the strong crystalline structure by hydrogen bonds. In particular, the polymerization degree of cellulose are closely related to the strength of fiber, and the permanence. the useful life of fiber, also depends on the degradation of this substance. The viscosity of cellulose is considered to be an important indicator of fiber damage in high molecule polymers. The viscosity measurements with CED solution is used to measure the molecular weight and the degree of polymerization of cellulose. Cellulose viscosity of wood fibers is measured with TAPPI standard method T230. However, TAPPI standard method T230 is difficult to completely dissolving the cellulose of high molecular weight and large degree of polymerization, such as Korea traditional papers and fabrics made with mulberry, ramie, cotton fibers. In this study, The high viscosity of hanji and fabric was measured with TAPPI standard method T254. T254 method is that the cellulose specimen with the proper amount of weaker (0.167M CED) solution, and completely dissolved with the stronger (1.0M CED) solution. It was found that cellulose with high degree of polymerization was dissolved more easily in general CED method.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.12 s.159
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• pp.1730-1736
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• 2006

To utilize hanji for fashion accessory efficiently, dyeability of Hanji should be improved. Though Hanji mostly consists of cellulose such as cotton and ramie, also has various impurities, and has the different internal and surface structure from textile materials. Because of them, Hanji might show different dyeing behavior. As physical properties of Hanji are reduced in wet condition, dyeing process would damage the physical properties of Hanji Therefore, in this study, dyeing properties of Hanji using direct dye were examined in comparison with cotton and ramie. Effect of dyeing on tensile strength, and bleeding of direct dye by water from Hanji, colorfastness to light were also estimated. While Hanji showed the maximun dye exhaustion at $25^{\circ}C$, cotton and ramie showed those at $60^{\circ}C$. Tensile strength of Hanji reduced after Hanji was dyed. When Hanji was dyed at $25^{\circ}C$, the more bleeding occurred than at higher dyeing temperature. Hanji which had higher K/S values were bled more than those had lower K/S value. Colorfastness to light of Hanji dyed with direct dye was not inferior to those of cotton and ramie.