• 한국의류학회지
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• 제22권8호
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• pp.1032-1042
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• 1998

The purpose of this study is to measure, compare, and investigate the physical properties of rayon/cotton blend fabrics treated with cellulase and cellulase & specific degeneration silicon and to present basic data which is in development a value-added fabric. The results are as follows. The condition for the treatment of cellulase was at 55$^{\circ}C$, pH 4 and the weight loss increased as the concentration of cellulase and the treated time increased. On treatment with cellulase, the crossectional view & longitudinal view of fiber noticed remarkable crack as weight loss increased and tensile strength and elongation decreased, and pilling was enhanced remarkably. KOSHI was increased, NUMERI and FUKURAMI were decreased as weight loss increased. In the basic characteristic value of clothing wearning, shape stability and drapability were decreased, but air content was improved. On treatment with cellulase & silicon, the degree of damage in the crossectional view & longitudinal view of the fiber reduced. Tensile strength, elongation, moisture regain improved. KOSHI and FUKURAMI were reduced, NUMERI was improved rather than when it was treated with cellulase. Therefore handle was improved. In the basic characteristic value of the clothing wearing, shape stability, air content, drapability were improved.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제27권6호
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• pp.654-665
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• 2019

The process of clothing production creates waste and scrap, which creates environmental, economic, and ethical issues. With this in mind the concept of ethical and sustainable fashion is discussed on many platforms as an important and timely topic. Many solutions have been presented on this subject. For the solution of this problem which has been increasing in the fashion and textile industry, the usage of sustainable materials and production methods is needed. There in a 'recyclable material cycle' should be adapted, instead of a 'traditional material cycle'. New methods and techniques should be developed with multi-disciplinary design approaches to produce creative and high value-added products in the name of fashion and sustainability. This is seen as one of the more effective solutions. This study aims to show that production scraps can be transformed into timely clothing designs with samples. The fabric scraps from different brands were turned into unique clothing designs with up to date trends by designer. In the practices completed while following the design process, collage and patchwork techniques were applied depending on the characteristics of the scrap fabric, artistic figures were hand-stitched onto the design. With this study, the scraps that get thrown into dumping grounds and damage the ecosystem can turn into ethical and economic benefits for the manufacturer. How to choose new high value-added products and create an awareness of social responsibility is also shown with examples in this study.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제37권3호
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• pp.348-356
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• 2013

Denim washing is processed with different washing techniques such as stone washing, chemical washing, sand washing, and bio washing. Cellulase bio washing can meet environmental regulations that enhance and rectify problems associated with traditional decolorization techniques; however, stone washing needs to be added to the processing because it produces a low decolorization effect. There is also the problem of additional strength reduction. To prevent these problems, a new enzyme for bio washing is required. This study examines the optimum laccase treatment conditions on denim and evaluated the characteristics of laccase-treated denims to establish a database of eco-friendly new decolorization process on denim using a new laccase enzyme. The results show that the optimum conditions of laccase on denim are a pH of 4.0, $30^{\circ}C$, 7% (o.w.f.), and 6 hours in 10 mM of buffer concentration. UV absorbance and HPLC identified isatin coexist with anthranilic acid in solution after laccase treatment on denim. Results of the surface color, the surface morphology and the tensile strength indicate that laccase treatment shows an excellent decolorization effect without fiber damage. The wet cleaning fastness and the perspiration fastness also improved.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제37권5호
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• pp.667-675
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• 2013

After analyzing excavated $17-18^{th}$ century silk fibers through a scanning electron microscopy, we discovered seven different kinds of fracture morphology. Using Morton & Hearle fiber fracture morphology, we classified the findings into four different categories. Type I is tensile failure resulting from brittle fracture, granular fracture, and ductile fracture. Type II is fatigue failure caused by tensile fatigue, flex fatigue, and axial split (fibrillation). Type III is bacterial deterioration discovered only in excavated artifacts. Type IV is a combination of the three above. Humid underground conditions and the infiltration of bacteria caused the fibers to swell and weaken its interfibrillar cohesion. Fractures occur when drying and processing an excavated artifact that is already in a fragile condition. Therefore, one must minimize damage through a prompt cleaning process and make sure that the least possible force is exerted on the fabric during any treatment for repair and exhibition.

• 복식
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• 제58권9호
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• pp.68-80
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is, as a prior stage to produce manufactured medical goods, to examine literature on the medicinal efficacy of natural dyes that can be used to produce medical goods, and to experiment the possibility of dyeing of some medicinal ingredients that have not been used as natural dyes until now. For this study, 44 types of medicinal ingredients such as Gyomaekchil(buckwheat), Nohoiyeob(aloe), Pogongyounng(dandelion), and Jibooja(broom cypress) were used. First, they were classified by a thermal sensation such as hot, warm, neutral, cool, and cold feeling, and by their characteristics of complex tastes such as sweet, sour, bitter, salty, pungent, astringent, and flat tastes. And then they were dyed with two types of mordant, resulting to a total of 132 types of dyed cloths. The 132 dyed cloths could be classified as five types of colors: 89 types(67.42%) of yellow series, 25 types(18.94%) of yellow-red series, 6 types(4.55%) of green-yellow series, 6 types(4.55%) of purple series, and 6 types(4.55%) of purple-blue series. The results of this study found that there were various medicinal ingredients that had efficacy to cure skin disorders and also could be used as natural dyes.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제9권3호
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• pp.341-346
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• 2007

This research is the hair damage as treating a perm before and after that is compared the change of surface characteristics of human hair. On the basis of this, we would to show a basic data for hair damage prevention and hair improvement to keep the beautiful and healthy hair. Results are as follows; For the change of formational characteristics of hair surface, untreated hair before the perm treatment had smooth appearance overall and undamaged scale that is in pattern and finely folded was observed but damaged hair and extremely hair had uneven edge and damages throughout along with the dissolution of scale which the border of epidermal gap is unclear. Hair after a perm treatment caused cortical exposures due to extensive loss of scale during the treatment and even bubble effect. Protein perm, regular perm, soft perm, and direct heating perm, in that order, had the most damages to the hair.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제16권4호
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• pp.217-228
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to grasp inconveniences and improvements by examining wearing condition and satisfaction of protective clothing targeting 114 Korean farmers and to suggest basic data for enhancement of pattern and wearing satisfaction of protective clothing by understanding problems of pesticide-proof clothing through comparative analysis on the size of its commercial products. Most of male subjects were in charge of spraying pesticide, whereas female were most likely to play an assistant role to hold the hose of pesticide applicator. Both of female and male subjects were very aware of the harmful effect of pesticide on human body and tried to take off the clothes immediately after spraying it to reduce possible damage caused by pesticide. As a result of examining wearing condition, the farmers avoided wearing protective clothing because that it feels hot, stuffy, and uncomfortable to move. This hesitant response of wearing the clothing was not shown significantly in case of female subjects who play an assistant role for spraying. Although the farmers wore protective equipments such as mask or gloves in a proper way as compared to protective clothing, they seemed to choose alternative way rather than best way to block pesticide completely. The satisfaction regarding to the fitting of protective clothing which the subjects showed low in all items of upper-lower clothes except waistline. It is necessary to improve the functionality such as relief from heat stress and convenience for movement rather than design or economic in protective clothing development. As a result of comparing the size of five kinds of commercial protective clothing, the farmers got confused to choose the product since designation method of size across companies showed a significant difference in an identical clothing size. In addition, the sizing system developed on a basis of a well-built man has become a hindering factor in wearing satisfaction of female farmers.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제36권8호
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• pp.875-884
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• 2012

Many Koreans have recently bleached their black hair to blond or a light color due to the influence of their favorite Korean idols. Bleaching effects were studied under various bleaching conditions, such as the concentration of oxidants, the ratio between bleach accelerant and oxidant, and treatment temperature and time. The degree of damage of bleached hair with the same color difference (${\Delta}E$) intervals was observed in SEM images, the retention of breaking load and the change of color after dyeing. The ratio between bleach accelerant and oxidant of 1:2.5 was an effective condition. $L^*$ values of the bleached hair treated with 9% oxidant increased to 90 min. At a treatment temperature of $30^{\circ}C$, $a^*$ values were maximum at 30 min and then decreased as time further increased; however, $b^*$ values of the bleached hair increased as the treatment time increased. At $45^{\circ}C$, both of $a^*$ and $b^*$ values showed a maximum at a specific time. Bleaching efficiency was influenced most by temperature, followed in order by time, and oxidant concentration. As the treatment time increased, $L^*$ values greatly increased with twice treatment; however, $a^*$ and $b^*$ values decreased. Bleached hair, which had a color difference of higher than 30, showed the scales were completely removed and the retention of the breaking load greatly decreased. Highly bleached hair showed a great decrease in $L^*$ values by dyeing; however, dyeing with bright colors was more indicative to the effect of bleaching.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제21권6호
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• pp.950-960
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• 2013

The purpose of this research is to provide accurate information of household washers and detergents for consumers, so that help the producers who make washing machine and detergent to get basic material and also help consumers to choose washing machine. Experiment was proceed with two type of washers to compare energy consumption, washing performance, rinsing effectiveness further, damage caused by entanglement of laundry and fabric was assessed. Detergent P and T were used to compare the performance related to differences of ingredients of detergent. Soiled fabrics of EMPA 108 set were used to evaluate performance of washing by different types of contamination. A summary of experimental results are : First, for the consumption of water, drum-type washer consumed 53% less than pulsator-type washer. On the other hand, the washing time was almost similar for both these machines, but pulsator-type washer showed shorter progress, implying that power saving was more efficient in this case. Second, the drum-type washer showed better performance for contamination with all types of detergent, but the pulsator-type washer showed better rinsing performance. Third, the drum-type washer performed less data of tangle level and fabric damage. Fourth, detergent "P" exhibited better washing performance than did detergent "T", regardless of the type of soil. And with no limit of detergent variety, water-soluble protein soil showed high removal rate, liposoluble soil especially pigment was hardly removed.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제33권7호
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• pp.1121-1127
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• 2009

This study presents an eco-friendly and one-step finishing method for modifying fiber property that reduces fiber damage in wool/polyester blend fabrics. Lipase from aspergillus oryzae is used in this experiment. The enzymatic treatment condition is optimized by measuring the relative activity of lipase depending on pH level, temperature, concentration of lipase, and treatment time. The concentration of $CaCl_2$as an activator is determined by the characteristics including whiteness, water contact angle (WCA), and dyeing property. The modified properties of lipase treated fabrics are tested for pill resistance and surface morphology. The results are described as follows: the optimum condions for lipase treatment constitute a pH level of 8.0, treatment temperature of 40$^{\circ}$$_C$, concentration of lipase at 100% (o.w.f), and a treatment time of 90 minutes. $CaCl_2$helps in raising lipase activation, and the optimum concentration is 50mM. The whiteness, wet ability, and pill resistance of lipase treated fabrics improves as compared to the control. The dyeing property of lipase treated fabrics improved by 53.5% after using the one-bath dyeing method. This means that lipase treatment can save time and cost during the dyeing process since lipase treatment modifies wool and polyester fibers. The surface of lipase treated wool fibers do not exhibit any change, however voids and cracks manifest on the surface of lipase treated polyester fibers.