• Title/Summary/Keyword: court culture

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A Study on 'Yeonji' Cosmetics and Make-up II - Focusing on diffusion and aspects of 'Yeonji' make-up in China - (연지화장(化粧) 연구 II - 중국(中國)에서의 연지화장 전파(傳播)와 양상(樣相) -)

  • Park, Chun-Soon;Jung, Bock-Hee
    • Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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    • v.15 no.3
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    • pp.425-437
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    • 2006
  • The focus of this study is on the diffusion and aspects of Yoenji make-up in China. The diffusion of Yoenji make-up into China was achieved by Zhuang-Kun's departure for the West of China, after Emperor Moo of Han Dynasty defeated the Huns (B.C. 121). The Yoenji make-up is basically used as a unique sign and from the result of excessive development from the facial beauty point in accordance with luxurious Court culture and opening door of culture. It can diversely express kinds, names, ways, types and patterns, places and bodily parts, the colors of materials for use, and time zones of a make-up.

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A Study on the Fashion Illustration of 17th Century (17세기 복식디자인화에 관한 연구)

  • 이순홍;황수정
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.2 no.2
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    • pp.395-413
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    • 1994
  • Costume is mirror of diverse life styles and attitudes in human life. It has a meaning beyond "clothing" . Fashion illlustration is to express these costumes with a picture. So, it can be said that it is a ′mirror of costumes′ in historical side. The purpose of this study is to find the meaning of fashion illustration of 17th century, which called its first one and to look into its characteristics and costumes of 17th century respotlighting fashion illustrators and painters related with fashion illustration in those days. This study is based on Western Europe by literatures. The fashion illustration in 17th century designed by painters and fashion illustrators. They are Wenceslaus Hollar, Abraham Bosse, Jacques Callot, Jean de st Jean, N. Bonar, A. Trouvain, A. Arnoult in France and so on. The characteristics of fashion illustration in 17th century are as follows : 1. There was a quickening of modern civil consciousness in 17th century. As the subject of costume culture moved from noble class to the working class which began to have a free, the fashion illustration changed to the direction of informing their social class and job. 2. The fashion illustrations of 17th century showed storng realism which was a base of modern picture. 3. The most of them showed costume plates. It was not to transmit adding intended forecast but to describe sincerely in costumes′ record. However, the fashion illustration since the middle of 17th century was designed considering fashion. 4. It could be said that the fashion illustration of 17th century was the forest one of today. It was expressed by Wenceslaus Hollar′s ones. And it is found in his suggestion of popular costumes before and behind and delicate description like accessories. 5. They were transmitted by fashion magazines internationally. Le Mercure Galant, which printed mode plates in 1678, was the first modern fashion magazine aiming at general readers. The fashion illustration of 17th century can divide into ones for court, for working classes, costume plates. The fashion illustrations for court designed by court painters. There were court costumes of early time, spanish Mode and of lately time, French Court Culture. They had baroque elements with a bunddle of ribbons and race decoration. On the other hand, the fashion iooustrations for working class were under the influence on Netherlands styles. They were designed for the purpose of god function and much use. That′s why was under the influence of puritanical life creed. In this situation, the costume plates directed the fashion in those days. At that time, they were supplied widely and it amy be an attempt of popularization. The fashion illustrations of 17th century appeared that they had transmissible character and artistics expression. On the basis of them, we can look into the fashion illustrations of today.

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Research on the Drinking Culture of the Choseon dynasty's Ruling Class using Semantic Network Analysis

  • Mi-Hye, Kim;Yeon-Hee, Kim
    • CELLMED
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    • v.13 no.2
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    • pp.3.1-3.21
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    • 2023
  • In this study, the drinking culture of the Choseon dynasty is examined with the text frequency analysis technique on the entire 『Choseonwangjosilok (朝鮮王朝實錄)』. This study examined a total of 1,968 volumes and 948 books about 27 kings of Choseon , which spans a total of 518 years, through web crawling on the National Institute of Korean History website. Python 3.8 was used to extract sentences related to alcohol, Rhino 1.4.5 was used for morphological analysis to extract nouns, and Gephi 0.9.2 was used for semantic network analysis. According to 『Choseonwangjosilok (朝鮮王朝實錄)』 about alcohol culture, the results of the analysis are as follow: Alcoholic beverages were more often used in court or in ritual ceremonies rather than those based on specific ingredients or manufacturing methods commonly used by the general public. regarding the ruling class through semantic network analysis l in the 『Choseonwangjosilok (朝鮮王朝實錄)』, the Choseon dynasty was found to be highly associated with political issues related to maintaining the power relations within the Korean royal court system. At times, alcohol was used to maintain personal relationships, while at other times it was seen as an essential item in state ceremonies. It was also used as a highly political means to maintain and strengthen national power.

조선왕조(朝鮮王朝)시대(屍臺) 금박(金箔)에 관한 연구(硏究)

  • In, Yun-Sil
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.2
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    • pp.51-64
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    • 1978
  • In reviewing our costume history, it is noted that costume bas been used as a yard stick for symboliying various social status. During the Lee Dynasty in which confucianism was the predominant religion, costume color, design and its fabric varied distinctly according to class, sex, age, occasion, et al. As in other field of our culture, costume was influenced by the Chinese culture. Although gilding was derived from the Chinese-originated gold-spun fabrics, no credit and praise should be spared for our ancestors of the Lee Dynasty who developed gilding artistry as our own. The use of gilded costume was confined to the formal court wear rather than casual wear even in court and to the nobles than to the commoners. Even among the nobles, gilding designs variously classified were used to distinguish the class. However, the modernization triggered by fores-Japan Annexation Treaty destroyed the traditional cable systems, thereby the limited use of gilding has yielded to the vast demand on the part of general populace.

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A Study on the Construction of Court Dress Coat in the Daehan Empire (대한제국기 서구식 문관 대례복 상의의 제작에 관한 연구)

  • Lee, Kyung-Mee
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.66 no.6
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    • pp.17-31
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    • 2016
  • The purpose of this study is to perform historical reconstruction of the court dress coat in the Daehan Empire in order to make replicas of the artifacts. Following steps were undertaken in the study : literature research of the laws of the era, drawing of the design, embroidering gold work, and tailoring of the coat. Embroidering and tailoring experts were consulted to complete an accurate reconstruction of the dress court. The results of this study are as follows. First, Juimgwan's coat, which was the Court Costume Rule in 1905 was selected as an experimental coat. It was revision of the Court Costume Rule in 1900. The process of selection was based on the amount and easiness of embroidery. Second, the design of the back bodice, chevron, pockets and collar is reflected the pattern of the preceding research, which was analyzed from the laws, the drawing document[Gwanbokjandoan], and artifacts. Third, the gold work embroidery in the back bodice, chevron, pockets and collar was done. The embroidery material were composed of gold threads, such as rough purl, smooth purl, check purl, pearl purl, rococo, and spangle. Couching was used as an embroidery method. The coat was tailored after embroidering. The coat and the buttons were made after analyzing the artifacts. The result of this study can be utilized in the field of historical reconstruction of artifacts in the museum, the designing of stage costume in the performances of reenactment events, drama, and movie of Daehan Empire. Furthermore, this study is anticipated to contribute to the fundamental research of culture contents.

A Study of Court Food Culture in Yi Dynasty of 18 Century -Based on the ceremony book 'Jung Ri Eui Gwae'- (18세기(世紀) 궁중연회음식고(宮中宴會飮食考) -원신을묘정리의궤(圓辛乙卯整理儀軌)를 중심(中心)으로-)

  • Kim, Choon-Yon
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Food Culture
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    • v.1 no.2
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    • pp.127-141
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    • 1986
  • This paper attempts to study the court food based on the historic ceremony book, Jung Ri Eui Gwiea which describes the king's visit to the royal tomb, 'Hyun Neung Won', during the rein of Chung Jo, the 22th King of Yi Dynasty. According to this book, the foods used for the ceremony of the court and the courtesy of dinner party appears as follows. 1. At the birthday party of Bong-su Dang, the main table with 70 dishes and the side table of extraodinary flavor with 12 dishes were served to Mrs. Hong of Hea Kyung Kung, the mother of Chung Jo. As soon as they were served, the napkins, menu card, flowers and soups followed them, and a cup (Jack) of wine (with soup) was served to her seven times. This party was held by Sang Chim, Sang Kung, Sang Eui, Jun Chan, Chan Chang, Jun Eui, In Eui, Sa Chan and Jun Bin. 2. At the birthday party of Yun-hee Dang;the main table with 82 dishes and the side table of extraodinary flavor with 40 dishes were served to her. And the napkins and menu cards followed them and a cup(Jack) of wine was served to her four times. The courtesy of this party was held by Sang Chim, Sang Kung, Sang Eui, Jun Sun and Yeo Jeo Jip Sa. 3. At the party of Yak No Yun for the oldman, there were some soups (Doo Po Tang), cooked sliced meats (Penn Yeuk), steamed legumes (Heuk Tea Zeung), and some fruits on the main table. The napkins, menu cards and flowers followed them, and wine was served on the table for the king. The feast was held by Chan Eui, In Eui, and Tong Rea. 4. Foods used in these parties were classified into 9 groups such as Rice cakes, Rice and Noodles, Dessert Cakes, Sugars, Fruits, Side Dishes, Beverages, Sauces and Wine. 5. The units of height, amount, weight, and number measured for cooking were used variously. 6. The foods accumulated highly on the dishes were decorated with paper and silk flowers. 7. The containers for cooking and the utensils for the feast were used variously.

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The Role of Transformational Leadership in Building Organizational Citizenship: The Civil Servants of Indonesia

  • HAPSARI, Diana;RIYANTO, Setyo;ENDRI, Endri
    • The Journal of Asian Finance, Economics and Business
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    • v.8 no.2
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    • pp.595-604
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    • 2021
  • For civil servants in the legal sector, the best performance that must be shown is not how they carry out activities following standard operational procedures but what is more important is how they show Organizational Citizenship Behavior (OCB) in daily activities. This study aims to examine what factors influence the formation of OCB civil servants in the legal sector in Indonesia. The study was conducted on 145 civil servant respondents who were involved in secretarial activities, each from the Judicial Commission Secretariat, the Attorney General's Office, the Ministry of Justice, the Supreme Court, the Police Headquarters, and the Constitutional Court. The research methodology used Partial Least Square (PLS) Version 3.0. The empirical findings of the research show that organizational culture has a significant influence in shaping transformational leadership that can build OCB among civil servants in Indonesia. This effect is much larger and more significant than the compensation system, which is widely believed to be the main factor in forming OCB, such as the results of previous studies. The results of this study imply that the formation of an organizational culture with values that can create high work productivity which has an impact on transformational leadership styles in building OCB.

Music practice by court musicians and Akjang yoram 『樂章要覽』 (궁중 악인(樂人)의 음악 연습과 『악장요람(樂章要覽)』)

  • Lee, Jung-hee
    • (The) Research of the performance art and culture
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    • no.43
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    • pp.357-380
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    • 2021
  • Akjang yoram 『樂章要覽』 is a book that summarizes only the important contents from the Akjang 樂章. Akjang 樂章 is arranged in the first half, and score 樂譜 is arranged in the second half. It seems that Akjang yoram 『樂章要覽』 passed through a total of four stages through the time when the handwriting and the lyrics were written. The presence of various handwriting and traces of modifications means that it has been passed through by several people, so it is not unrelated to the fact that several traces remain on the back of the cover of Akjang yoram 『樂章要覽』. The first part of the Akjang 樂章 is a method of presenting the name and lyrics of the accompanying music based on the ritual procedure, and in particular, the lyrics are written in Chinese characters and Hangeul sounds to improve readability. The score in the second half complies with the ritual procedures, but boldly omits overlapping melodies, and is composed based on the music, and various symbols are used to capture the expression of court music. This structure is a reflection of the direction we practiced to harmonize with the music after prior ritual procedures and diction. This was a device to increase the efficiency of music education and music practice for the court musician. The characteristics of the musical pieces are that they consist of essential musical pieces that must be mastered as musicians. In addition, the name Kim Hyung-sik 金亨植 is noted on the back cover of Akjang yoram 『樂章要覽』, and he was a court musician who was active in the age of King Sunjo 純祖. In other words, the musical pieces included in Akjang yoram 『樂章要覽』 are the core repertoire played by court musicians like Kim Hyung-sik 金亨植. Akjang yoram 『樂章要覽』 is a 'music practice booklet' containing the daily life of court musicians. Akjang yoram 『樂章要覽』 is a booklet designed for the purpose of teaching the court musicians to sing while correctly pronouncing the lyrics in major ceremonies. It is even more noteworthy in that Kim Hyung-sik 金亨植 was an owner. In addition to the fact that Kim Hyung-sik's name remains, and in the practicality of being used by various court musicians reflecting and modifying the changes of the times, it is meaningful in that it contains the path of court musicians who spent a lot of time and time to transmit court music.

A Study on The Dancing Suit Gumgee-Mu (劍器舞服飾애 關한 硏究)

  • 남후선
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.5 no.3
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    • pp.142-150
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    • 1997
  • Korean ritual dancing was doing in a royal court when an auspicious event happen in a country, a ritual ceremony was hold or reception for an envoy came from the other country was hold. There were 53 kinds of ritual dancing in Korea. Gumgee-Mu was the one among of them. Yea-Reung(woman ritual dancer) were dancing Gumgee-Mu with a sword. For Gumgee-Mu they wore a Kaeja(快子), Haebsuyoi(挾袖衣). Above it they took a Jeandae(戰帶), Jeanlib(戰笠). The dancing suit\`s color had a harmony with well mixed. Lunar-Solar-Five-Natural(陰陽五行) of oriented traditional concept.

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