• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.114-121
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• 2010

Denim is one of the most frequently used fabrics for blue jeans. After washing denim fabric frequently changes its size and color. Salespersons recommended that after purchasing blue jeans customers should dry clean them once before washing. The aim of this study was to investigate to what degree washing with a household washing machine and dry cleaning affected the dimensions and the color of denim fabric. The denim fabric shrank greatly after the first laundering in warp direction regardless of whether it had been dry-cleaned or not. However, it shrank little from the second to the tenth laundering and after each number of dry cleanings. The thickness of the denim changed in the same way as the shrinkage occurred when the number of launderings or dry-cleanings increased. Although the indigo came out of the denim into washing liquor, both of the $L^*$ values and the $b^*$ values of the laundered and the dry-cleaned denim fabrics were lower than those of the control fabric. Darkening of the fabric after washing attributed to the shrinkage in warp; specifically the deep-blue warp yarns more spaced on the fabric face and the back. The $L^*$ and $b^*$ values of the dry-cleaned fabric decreased less than those of the laundered. The value of $a^*$ increased much less than the other values. Staining of the white cotton fabric laundered with the denim fabrics became less as the number of launderings increased. The degree of staining from the dry-cleaned denim was much lower than that of the laundered fabric.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.41 no.2
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• pp.341-351
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• 2017

This study evaluates a cleaning method to maintain and minimize the change of blood soil for the selective removal of stains from textiles with historical significance and special meaning. Cotton and silk fabrics were soiled with blood, aged artificially and then washed by wet cleaning or dry cleaning (water, nonionic surfactant; Triton, natural surfactant; saponin, organic solvent; n-Decane). The washed fabrics were stored at room temperature for four years. The change of the blood soil was evaluated by SEM, weight, thickness, and color differences. Subsequently, the shape and the amount of blood adsorption on the fabric varied depending on fiber type and fabric structure characteristics; in addition, long term storage affected changes to blood soil. It was difficult to remove artificially aged blood soil from fabrics by wet or dry cleaning. However, the changes of the blood soil by these cleanings can be explained by the changes on SEM, weight, thickness and fabric color. The changes (especially color) showed over time. Wet cleaning showed that the changes of those factors were slightly lower than those by dry cleaning.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.23 no.3
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• pp.27-38
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• 1985

In KOREA, the history of weaving is so long even in prinitive, there are the traces of fabric emmision using Spindle already in the Neolithic age. And coming up to the period of Three States, becoming active of cultivation of fibers, it can be known the variety of kinds and the production of fine products by improvement of new method of weaving using weaving machine. In the period of shilla state, there is a record of making the fine fabrics with 28 bracts. But wearing of silks fabrics was limitted for only the nobility and common people were wearing native thick hemp clothes. Also in the period of Korea state, they were wearing the hemp clothes by cultivation of hemp. The good quality products were worn by the King or the nobility and women in KOREA made their best with whole efforts to pay to the authorities with woven products of hemp clothes, so in the 14th year of King Chung- Ryul, King prohibited the presentation of fine hemp clothes by his order. By the end of KOREA state, before the production, common people was mainly wearing the hemp clothes. Coming up to the Kingdom of Chosun the sericulture was promoted by establishment of the sericulture encouraging low. Therefore the working hours of women were highly increased. The products of Song-do, Chin-ju for cotton clothes, those of Han-san-the same now as in old times-for ramie clothes, those of Han-Kyung province and An-dong for hemp fabrics were estimated as the best qualities. And the hemp clothes of Kang-won province is not so fine but is very useful and famous for mourning clothes and summer clothes for the farmer. It is true that our history of weaving was begun with hemp as a continous and precious friend of common people during all the historical periods-even though for a while it went backward because of chinese silks.

• The Journal of Natural Sciences
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.143-150
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• 1999

A natural dyeing makes fabrics look unique and elegant which cannot be obtain by synthetic dyestuffs. The natural dyestuffs are harmless to human, and it is easy to get them. Also, the natural dyestuffs are environmentally frendly, which is the anther merit for natural dyeing,We investigated dyeability with several fabrics (cotton, wool, ramie, silk and nylon) using an elm bark. We mordants(natural and synthetic). Also, colorfastness in dyed fabrics was estimated by laundering and light. The optimum condition of dyeability in elm bark was 60 min as time, $80^{\circ}C$ as temperature and 1: 40 as bath ratio. The dyeability in silk and nylon was the best among the sample. The treatment of mordants improved the dyeability and colorfastness in silk, wool and nylon. We obtain various color by the mordants.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.85-95
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• 2022

This study aimed to clarify relationships between the westernization of military uniform systems and changes in the textile import industry during the Eulmi reforms of clothing regulation. For the goal, the study investigated the content and features of that had been enacted under the Eulmi reforms. It also examined the status of the textile import industry at the time, especially in relation to outer garments such as jackets or Eui, trousers or Go, and overcoats. Moreover, this study inspected how the above westernization changed the textile import industry. More specifically, the research analyzed the content of based on articles from the then state newsletter or 『Gwanbo』, and the then cabinet meeting or Euijeongbu's proceedings or 『Euiju』. Concerning the textile import industry, this study looked into relevant descriptions and trade statistics from 『KOPEИ(Hankukji)』, and analyzed changes in that industry in connection with the introduction of Western military uniform systems. As a result, this study found that increased imports of cotton fabrics during the Eulmi reforms of clothing regulation was correlated with surging demand for shirt or lining materials and increase in the use of Myeonyung following military uniform westernization. Similarly, an increase in silk fabric imports was an outcome of increased demand for lining materials. Also, the import growth of woolen fabrics was seemingly attributed to the use of Heuknasa and Heukyung as basic materials of military uniforms. Thus, military uniforms began to be made of fabrics, which hadn't been used before in the wake of westernization. This development brought changes in the textile import industry, which is supported by textile import statistics of the time. In conclusion, the westernization of military uniform systems under the Eulmi reforms of clothing regulation was a significant factor that changed the industry.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Manufacturing Process Engineers
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• v.20 no.11
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• pp.86-91
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• 2021

Recently, functional clothes that can reduce deposition and/or penetration of fine dust have been developed. However, there are no methods to quantitatively evaluate the performance of these clothes. In this study, we developed a method to contaminate a fabric using fine dust and established an approach to quantitatively assess the degree of particle contamination on the fabric surface. Silicate powder was chosen as the particle to simulate fine dust because silicate particles are fluorescent under UV light; therefore, they can be distinguished from any color of non-fluorescent fabric surface. A camera with a high-resolution lens system was used to scan the surface of the contaminated fabric surface, and the degree of particle contamination of the fabric surface was analyzed in terms of the pixels corresponding to the area of the fabric surface contaminated by silicate particles. Finished or unfinished nylon fabrics as well as cotton fabrics were contaminated with silicate particles, and their surfaces were scanned using the established camera. The proposed assessment method was found to be useful for quantitatively comparing the degree of particle contamination of the fabrics.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.33 no.4
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• pp.191-201
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• 2021

In this study, an eco-friendly indigo reduction system(scale up reduction, use of buffer solution, and pH control) using baker's yeast(Saccharomyces cerevisiae) was applied for natural indigo(Polygonum tinctorium) dyeing of Hanji fabric and Hanji-mixture fabric(Hanji/Cotton, Hanji/Silk). The effect of concentration of baker's yeast, repeat dyeing, and bath reuse was investigated in terms of dye uptake indicating reduction power. And the oxidation-reduction potential(ORP) was monitored. We also evaluated color properties and colorfastness according to the color strength. The yeast concentration did not significantly affect the maximum reduction power. However, the highest yeast concentration was effective in improving the initial dye uptake, and its the reduction retention power was the most excellent. Even on the last reduction day, the effect of increasing the dye uptake by repeat dyeing was observed. And it was confirmed that the reduction bath could be reused for up to 30 days by supplementing yeast at the end of reduction. For all the fabrics used, deeper and darker PB color were obtained by repeat dyeing. As dyeing was repeated, purplish tint got stronger on the Hanji/Silk fabric compared to other fabrics. Regardless of the composition of Hanji fabrics and color strength, washing and dry cleaning fastness were relatively good with above rating 4-5, and fastness to rubbing and light were acceptable with a rating 3-4 ~ 4-5. The eco-friendly natural indigo dyeing process using niram and baker's yeast would offer global marketability and diversity of Hanji product as a sustainable high value-added material.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.25 no.4
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• pp.107-122
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• 2023

This study analyzed the style, dimensions, fabric patterns, colors, and fabrics of a traditional Chinese women's dress from the Zhou Dynasty, and reconstructed it in the form of a virtual garment using 3D CLO. Based on ancient flat image data and three-dimensional portrait data, who wore them, how they were worn, and how they were coordinated was analyzed. In order to analyze the size and pattern of the straight Ju Chines dress, data from the excavation report and the tomb owner's anthropometric measurements were combined to infer the wearing condition and organize the sculptural features. Dimensional analysis was carried out using a well-preserved small-scale woven cotton cloth as a restoration model, and the horizontal and vertical dimensions were reasonably estimated using the shape proportioning method. The analysis of the colors and patterns of the fabrics was based on the colors and patterns of the fabrics excavated from Masan Tomb No. 1 during the Eastern Zhou, Qin, and Han periods. Finally, a virtual model was created using data from the excavation report and the age and height information of the owner of the excavated robe, and the pose and size of the virtual model were determined using 3D CLO. Based on the previous research data, the garment was virtually sewn and simulated. The shape, pressure, and strain of the garment in different postures was also compared. Through the research direction of pattern and 3D restoration, this research maximizes the restoration of Chinese traditional women's dress and presents it in a more intuitive, comprehensive, and vivid way.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.3-14
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• 2016

This study is aimed to measure the physical colorimetric property according to three conditions, natural dyestuffs (Gardenia, Sappan wood, Lac, Gardenia blue, Mugwort, and Indigo), fabric types (cotton, silk), and presence of mordant (without, with), and then to evaluate the psychological sensibility. Also, to perform analysis of variance (ANOVA) to find out the differences of physical properties according to the three natural dyeing conditions, and to analyze the relationship between physical property and psychological property by Pearson's correlation analysis and then suggest the prediction model by regression analysis using SPSS program (ver. 21.0). Finally, to propose a certain sensibility image map of naturally dyed fabrics, MDS (Multidimensional Scaling) was used, and as a result, Gardenia dyed fabrics having the color sensibilities such as 'hard' and 'heavy' were suggested to evoke masculine image, and to evoke feminine image, Sappan wood and Lac having 'bright', 'transparent', 'soft' and 'light' sensibilities were suggested. Natural image might be induced by using 'subdued' Mugwort dyed fabrics, and active image might be induced by using 'showy' Indigo dyed fabric.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.19-30
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• 2015

The healing effect of the aroma treated fabrics with lavender and lemon aromas was investigated by assessing the autonomic nervous responses of human body. For this cause Lemon and lavender microcapsules were coated on a cotton fabric using a water-based acrylic binder, respectively. And the study created a total of four aroma treated fabrics at a concentration of 2% and 5% respectively. Electrocardiogram(ECG), skin conductance, and Blood flow, of ten participants were measured for 30 sec at a stable condition, at a stress status (working memory task), and at a stimulation status (after rubbing aroma treated fabrics). Subjective sensibilities of the aromas were also evaluated. With regard to the responses of the autonomic nervous system, in order to understand how the values gained after the normalization process would cause different physiological signals between the stable state and the aroma-stimulated state as well as between the stress state and the aroma-stimulated state, the study conducted a non-parametric test, friedman test as well and analyzed tendencies. LF/HF turned out to be significantly different to the stress state, and according to the results of the post-hoc comparison, lemon 5% presented statistically significant differences among the lavender 2%, lavender5%, lemon2%. Lemon 5% stimuli increased stress but stimuli consisting of the lavender 2%, the lavender 5% and the lemon 2% decreased stress because of a psychological rest. And the stimuli of the lavender 2%, the lavender 5%, the lemon 2% presented a healing effect in this research.