• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.1
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• pp.21-32
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• 2001

Gauze is very light and thin. Their warps are entangled and their structure is loose. It is natural that they are easier to decay than other silk fabrics through physiochemical processes over a long period of time. Nonetheless quite many remains of Gauze fabrics can be found in China or Japan as well as in Korea. Various Gauze was used in costumes since the era of the Three Kingdoms and their weaving techniques, such as using gold threads with silk-fabrics, was developed in Koryo dynasty era, which made it possible to create more magnificent gauze fabrics in Korea. Relatively a lot of Gauze fabrics are remained in Korea. Based on these corroborative relics, this thesis analyzes the characteristics of gauze fabrics possesed in Korea and categorizes the gauze fabrics described in the Decrees on Costume Restraint of the King Hungduk. This also compares them with the present gauze in other countries. The types of gauze fabrics are generally divided into desined gauze, and non-designed gauze, the one without pattern. There ar a lot of desined gauze, such as dyeing gauze, brocade gauze, embroidery with gauze ground, patterned gauze with gauze ground etc. which were found in Korea and also in China and Japan. Non-designed gauze is divided into 2-end complex gauze, 3-end complex gauze, 4-end complex gauze, etc depending on the number of crossing warps. All of the non-designed gauze of Koryo dynasty found in Korea was 4-end complex gauze fabrics. These non-designed gauze fabrics were also found in Japan and China.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.37 no.5
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• pp.691-703
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• 2013

The costume culture of ladies in late Goryeo is an important and rare source for cultural fashion souvenir design. This study investigates the historical costume design sources of late Goryeo to suggest high quality traditional and practical ornament souvenir designs for female dolls as well as examples of coordination with doll costumes. The costume culture of late Goryeo contained golden Buddhism and a revival of $12^{th}$ century Goryeo costume characteristic after the period of Mongolian influences from the Yuan. The main sources for doll ornament designs are $14^{th}$ century Buddhist paintings, a few ornament relics of Goryeo, ancient literature, and portraits of ladies in the $14^{th}$ century that originated from five doll's traditional ornaments (lotus hairpin, cloud-shaped hairpin, Buddhist flower hair ornament, vase-shaped Binyeo, and bell of animalhuman face) and three wig designs (wigs from Buddhist paintings and portraits, and hairpiece) with bleached gilding silver, silk, various gemstones and synthetic hair. These doll ornament and wig designs imply the symbol of Buddhism, exorcism, and costume culture of $14^{th}$ century Goryeo ladies that can be matched with two doll gowns, half-sleeved jacket, skirt, two Jogoris, apron, under trousers as formal, semi-formal, and town-wear according to the T.P.O of late Goryeo; in addition, five ornaments can be used as owner's ornaments. The partial changing colors and materials due to the characteristics of doll ornament goods as well as better communication between researcher and constructor remain to be improved.

• The Journal of the Convergence on Culture Technology
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• v.9 no.5
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• pp.83-90
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• 2023

The recent trend in younger generations of wearing traditional costumes or incorporating fusion hanbok into daily wear necessitates the development of modern hair accessories to complement hanbok. The purpose of this study is to develop practical and modern hair accessory designs inspired by royal women's hair ornaments that complement hanbok, and therefore expand the scope of fashion content development utilizing hanbok culture as well as meeting the demand for various experiences of traditional culture. This research studied the literature on traditional hairstyles and accessories of Queen Yeong and constructed models of these accessories for the purpose of empirical research. The production process first required creating a basic foundation of nylon mesh reflecting the silhouette of a traditional hairstyle, and then grafting a digital textile printed fabric using majestic and extravagant royal relics on top, thus employing the trompe l'oeil technique to ultimately give the impression of wearing traditional jewelry. As a result, a total of six hair accessory designs were completed, produced with hairbands, hair pins, and hair ties. In addition, the accessories are designed to be easily worn regardless of the wearer's hair style, and the stiff yet flexible nylon mesh effectively expresses the shape of a voluminous hairstyle and creates an optical illusion, blending into the hair. These research results present a unique aesthetic and cultural experience to the greater public seeking both daily entertainment and value from rarity.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.46 no.3
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• pp.94-113
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• 2013

Donggwanwangmyo[East Shrine of King Guan Yu] is the shrine for General Guan Yu from the Shu Dynasty, China. This type of shrine was begun to be built from the Tang Dynasty in China and from 1598 in Korea when the Japanese invaded Korea for the $2^{nd}$ time. Donggwanwangmyo is historically significant because it was jointly constructed by China and Korea in the spring of 1602 after the end of Japanese invasion of Korea. However, almost no research has been conducted about the sculptures standing at Donggwanwangmyo and there are many mistakes concerning the names and materials of these sculptures. This study is conducted to resolve these issues as follows: First of all, it was found that the main building of Donggwanwangmyo enshrines those which were moved from the North Shrine of Guan Yu and the West Shrine of Guan Yu during the Japanese colonial rule of Korea in addition to what was initially placed in Donggwanwangmyo during construction. These relics are assorted and each line of them is displayed in the center and to the east or west of the building. Among the relics, seven sculptures are standing at the center of the main building, among which one sculpture of Guan Yu is made of gold and two sculptures of maids and four sculptures of guards are made of clay. It is particularly noted that the sculptures of Guan Yu and his guards, Guan Ping, Zhou Cang, Wang Fu, and Zhao Lei, represent the portraits of historical characters that actually existed. Moreover, the sculptures of guards are characterized by the fact that they are unlike those in China, but have two pairs of literary men and warriors that stand facing each other as is the case in the royal mausoleums constructed during the Joseon Dynasty. Second of all, the sculptures from Donggwanwangmyo were carved in 1602, but their costumes and equipment were derived from the paintings from the Tang and Song Dynasties. Some decorations from the Ming Dynasty are also reflected in the sculptures. It implies that Donggwanwangmyo was partially modeled after the Shrine of Emperor Guan Yu[Gwanjemyo] in Jiezhou which was rebuilt in 1593 by Emperor Sinjong of the Ming Dynasty and that the secular and dramatic patterns of the Qing Dynasty are prevalent in the said sculptures based on the patterns of the Ming Dynasty because all the sculptures at the Shrine in Jiezhou were constructed when the Qing Dynasty ruled between the $18^{th}$ and the $19^{th}$ Centuries. In conclusion, it was found that sculptures from Donggwanwangmyo were created in 1602, that they follow the ancient traditions attested by the paintings of Korean and Chinese sculptures, and that they are very valuable in art history since they retain the original forms of the Shrine of Guan Yu built during the Joseon and Ming Dynasties.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.52 no.4
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• pp.18-37
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• 2019

This study derived a method for establishing the chronology of cloud patterns by examining the arrangement of the treasure motifs in the cloud pattern used in the relevant pattern-decorated book covers of 89 Oegyujanggak Uigwe books, which are currently housed in the National Museum of Korea. The cloud pattern with a treasure motif was used in the covers of a total of 89 books from King Hyojong Gukjangdogam Uigwe (1659) to Sadoseja Garyedogam Uigwe (1744), spanning 86 years. First, to analyze the cloud pattern, it should be broken down into smaller parts to the extent that the different shapes of treasure motifs can be recognized. Secondly, the method of decoding the pattern is as follows: First, check whether the pattern is arranged in one or two directions from the vertex of the cloud's head, and determine the direction of the cloud tail. Then, decode the treasure motif's arrangement starting from the vertex of the cloud's head toward the direction the tail of manja is headed. Record the findings of this decoding process by categorizing them. Thirdly, as a result of the analysis, a total of 28 types of cloud patterns with treasure motifs were identified in 89 books. There were 45 types of treasure motifs used in such patterns. Finally, we have concluded that applying the method of decoding the treasure motif in the cloud pattern to portraits, excavated costumes, and various relics can be useful to establish the chronology of cloud patterns in the late Joseon period. The method suggested in this study is called 'The Reading Method of Chronology in Cloud Pattern with Treasure Motifs' (also 'Jeung-ha Cloud Pattern Reading Method').