• 복식문화연구
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• 제14권5호
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• pp.728-738
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• 2006

As movies and dramas which show traditional clothes and fusion clothes are getting popular these days, lot of people are paying attention to these dress and ornaments. And as for the domestic collections which seem to reflect this trend, various fusion style clothes are getting widely adopted by people. Therefore, this study analyzed and considered the clothes designs when the country started to open itself to other countries, by selecting a movie titled "YMCA baseball team", a movie to ascertain vigorous historical verification, and by conducting the prior study and using the DVD capture program. This study is meaningful in that based on the comparison study on the costumes, it clarifies the degree of costumes(clothes) acceptance at the point of nation's opening to other countries, which is the source of fusion style, and further shed light on the role that the movie costumes will play. From this study, we can get the following conclusions. First, through the theoretical background it can be known that when the country opened itself to outside world the dress and ornaments of the time was adopted in a top-down way, namely, first adopted by the royal family and the upper class, which could have easy access to the western civilization and institutions, and then the low class later. Second, in the movie titled 'YMCA baseball team' the costumes were designed through the strict and thorough historic verification, and it can be confirmed that various dress and ornaments adopted at the time of nation's opening to the outside world centered around the clothes design for new women. Third, 'YMCA baseball team is evaluated as a movie that reproduces that time well and as a media that provides an effective clue to the dress and ornaments adopted by the public when the country opened itself to the outside world.

• 복식
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• 제50권3호
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• pp.43-58
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• 2000

This study is an analysis on the costumes of two statuettes of standing women made with three colored cermai excavated from Parhae tomb in Shiguo(석국), Chilin province(길림성), China. These statuettes wear similar clothing ; A narrow sleeved under-blouse with a decollette neckline and a long skirt tied above the bosom. But their hairstyles are quite different ; one has a bun top of the head which tipped slightly forward. the other has two buns with two loops near ears. Their shoes are a little different: in the former the top of the shoes are a little crooked, but in the latter they are high-fronted and more crooked. These two statueettes are valueable and unique source which demonstrates the female costumes of Parhae dynasty, and at the same time which accounts for the acceptance and assimilation of costumes of Tang dynasty. Base upon the analysis on their costumes, hairstyles , and their expressions of the body shape, two statuettes seem to be made after the early 8th century.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제14권6호
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• pp.992-1000
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• 2012

This study develops a traditional green fabric pattern design through an apparel CAD system. The method used simulated stage costumes and evaluated the consumer satisfaction connected with a 3D fitting system. The results are as follows. Computerization of the pattern making process can provide higher accuracy and efficiency in apparel pattern making and marking for green fabrics. A Stage costumes design was developed; subsequently, the developed dress patterns are automatically depicted to the input of the body size of the consumer and marked using marking program. This results show that it has an effect on narrow and expensive green fabrics. Stage costumes design can make a simulation by a 3D Fitting system. The results of this study can provide higher consumer satisfaction through a survey of 30 consumers. Stage costumes should attract the sympathy of the spectators. The Acceptance of Andong region's traditional beauty is required. We found that a relationship of performance and clothes, physical functionality and beauty of costumes, possibility of commercialization, and the possible use of a 3D Fitting system use are evaluated. A continuous study of regional culture resources is required since there is a significant possibility for the long-term development of stage clothes.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제9권1호
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• pp.1-14
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• 2009

This study is intended to examine the modernization of Chinese costumes through historical events, and to analyze the characteristics of the costume modernization process. The modernization of Chinese costumes appears to have begun with the Opium Wars, and the Nanjing Treaty(1842), the Beijing Treaty(1860) and the official residence of western people in Chinese territory. Afterwards, in order to initiate change, the Chinese people themselves implemented the Westernization movement(1861-94), placing an emphasis on the westernization of external elements such as technology and form, but aspects such as costume, deeply saturated in their traditions, do not appear to have changed significantly. Despite self-empowering movements such as these, as western forces diffused deeper into the Chinese mainland, neo-intellectuals formed the axis of a revolutionary movement. A major example can be found in the Xinhai Revolution(1911) revolution, which forbade the binding of feet and shaving of frontal hair and partially implemented western formal dress. Through these factors, the modernization process of Chinese costume demonstrates characteristics of an adherence to traditional dress and partial acceptance of western attire. Through this, we may understand the modern costumes of China, which adhered more to tradition than Japan, which pursued western costumes actively within a similar period, and Korea, which rushed modernization due to Japanese authority.

• 복식
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• 제55권4호
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• pp.124-137
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• 2005

Foreign culture, introduced by cultural exchange, was modified and accepted into a new form and value system. Culture speaks for the characters of the period, so it is presented by the mutual actions of many factors affecting culture. Religion is the essence of human life and the source of ideas about life, the universe and existence, so they become hidden inside of the structure of culture. Dancing costumes present the process of cultural modification and acceptance more vividly than general costumes. This research shows that, among foreign cultures, it is Buddhism that most influenced Chinese dancing costume. Taoism was the Chinese native religion that played an oppositional role against Buddhism. Taoism was hidden in Chinese dancing costume in every age. Chinese dancing costume changed many times due to the import of exotic styles such as Buddhism that partially replaced the Taoistic tradition. Therefore, it is confirmed that the process of cultural importation of exotic style was different according to the social, historical, and cultural backgrounds of China during the period from the Han to the Sui and Tang dynasties.

• 복식
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• 제55권8호
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• pp.48-56
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• 2005

Foreign culture, introduced by cultural exchange, was modified and accepted into a new form and value system. Culture speaks for the characters of the period, so it is presented by the mutual actions of many factors affecting culture. Religion is the essence of human life and the source of ideas about life, the universe and existence, so they become hidden inside of the structure of culture. Dancing costumes present the process of cultural modification and acceptance more vividly than general costumes. This research shows that, among foreign cultures, it is Buddhism that most influenced Chinese dancing costume. Taoism was the Chinese native religion that played an oppositional role against Buddhism. Taoism was hidden in Chinese dancing costume in every age. Chinese dancing costume changed many times due to the import of exotic styles such as Buddhism that partially replaced the Taoistic tradition. Therefore, it is confirmed that the process of cultural importation of exotic style was different according to the social, historical, and cultural backgrounds of China during the period from the Han to the Sui and Tang dynasties.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제4권3호
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• pp.447-464
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• 1996

In this study, observations were made on costumes of romantic ballet. Twelve ballets of romantic period were selected for this study; La Sylphide(1832), La Filledu Danube (1836), Le Diable Boiteux(1836), La Gitana(1838), La Gipsy(1839), La Tarentule(1839), L'Ombre(1839), Giselle(1841), La Peri(1843), La Esmeralda(1844), Pas de Quatre(1845), la Fille de Marbe(1847). Romantic age was acceptance of the ballerinas as the central figure on the stage. Famous ballerinas in romantic age were Marie Taglioni, Fanny Elβler, Carlota Grisi, Fanny Cerrito, Lucile Grahn. Romantic style of dancing sprung onto the stage of the Paris Oepra with M. Taglione's first performance of La Sylphide in 1832. Ballet costumes n romantic period except La Gipsy were with low decolletage, very short transparent sleeves that decorated with shining band or small cuffs, and the waist of the fitted bodice dipped to point in front decorated with sash or jewel. The form of skirts was bell-shaped and reached middle calf. That style became stereotype for ballet costume and called ballet blanc.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제12권2호
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• pp.156-161
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• 2010

To improve the standard of living of its citizens, local festivals is located in one axis of the new culture. These symptoms shows that there is increasing awareness of traditional culture such as Hanryu. The purpose of this study is to develope the presentative Dress of Andong International Maskdance Festival to stimulate curiosity and participate easily. 24 villages in Andong were present to represent appropriate Dress of Maskdance Festival which have been announced through the fashion show. The characteristics of the maskdance dress which presented in this study has the purpose of making the specialties of each village to tourism resources. Characteristics of the maskdance dress which designed to blend on the mask was as following. (1) Maskdance dress should shown well and must have strong durability of strenuous exercise in maskdance (2) Maskdance dress should be able to get the sympathy of the spectators. (3) Maskdance dress should be sympathetic as modern costumes. (4) Aesthetics as custumes and requirements as product must be met. (5) Acceptance of Andong region's traditional beauty is required. (6) Maskdance dress is likely to require long-term use. (7) Maskdance dress must be able to accommodate a variety of body conditions. Through customer satisfaction survey of 158 spectators and 48 members of fashion show, the relevance of masks and costumes, aesthetic and motility of costumes, commercialization potential, especially costume' motility and functional fitness of clothing sizes was highly evaluated. So maskdance dress or stage costumes as long-term development is likely to be considered. And continued research is needed.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제8권1호
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• pp.1-17
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• 2008

This research analyzes the patterns in modernization of costume that reflects the attitude of accepting the Western culture and the differences in perception, during modernization period (1850-early 1910) in Japan. The Japanese attitude toward the Western costume can be roughly classified into three periods: impetuous acceptance in the early Restoration of Imperial Regime(1867-1883), aggressive acceptance in Rokumeikan period(1883-1887), and the coexistence of traditional and modern costumes after Meiji 20(1887-1910). A Western costume symbolizes wealth and power until Rokumeikan period, however, as it becomes more common, it is considered as an ordinary dress rather than a ceremonial dress. The exact opposite phenomenon occurs to traditional costume. Although Japanese modernization is initially forced by western ideology of power, positive reactions to western culture and changes in perception toward China leads to more active importation of western culture. This reflects the governmental effort such as the Foreigners Employment Policy in the early Meiji period, and the public also became receptive toward change. However, acceptance of the Western culture is only limited to academic and technological areas, while the traditional Japanese ethos(the Emperor system, Shintoism, patriarchism) is obstinately protected. Therefore, it can be inferred that such extreme polarization of modernization and traditional inheritance enabled both perspectives to retain their own characteristics.

• 복식
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• 제53권1호
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• pp.77-85
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• 2003

The following results are from a research on the influences of the political parties on the fashion styles. which political power was strugg1ed with each other were one of the political Phenomena featuring Chosun Dynasty. Partisan fashion styles are mainly divided into two groups : NohRon (노론) and SohRon (소론). Nonetheless. NmIn (남인) also shows several unique traits. BukIn (북인). however, does not seem to be retaining any unique styling features. which believed to be caused by lack of political Power. The style of NohRon represents the status of a ruling party, which generally had abundant resources and the image of a conservatism. On the contrary, with SohRon's style, swiftness and reform-minded images could be found. Moreover, the NohRon's style is generally known to present, as the representing the way of noble men of Chosun Dynasty wore in the past. The reason seems to have stemmed from its status as the last ruling party in Chosun Dynasty. Thus, many people of the age mimicked the style, and it gained general acceptance in turns. Consequently, it is still deemed as the prevalent style of Chosun Dynasty.