• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제7권3호
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• pp.157-165
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• 2005

The purpose of this research is to investigate the actual conditions of the manufacturer's design processes. Questionnaires were sent out, and 57 interviews were used as research methods including designers, programmers, and merchandisers working for a knit manufacturer in Seoul, followed by a frequency analysis using SPSS 12.0. The results are as follows: knitted fabric goods were the top choices in casual wear. Brand image depended on 'elegance', 'modernity', and 'romanticism', among other lifestyle pursuits. The distribution ratio of the 'basic' and the 'trendy' knit was at 3:7 or 7:3, while the ratio of 6:4 or 4:6 was more common. Knit structure was proven to be the most important factor in the changes in designs. Style and yam ranked second and third, respectively. In addition, details (embroidery and beading), color, pattern, and processing were among the other factors, in order of importance. Based on the difficulty in designing and manufacturing knitted fabric goods, 'manufacturing cost:' 'lack of a manufacturing facility for small production,' and 'limited delivery time' were among the reasons cited in the questionnaire. These results appeared to have been caused by small-scale manufacturers or small-scale manufacturing facilities that made small volume production difficult. The results of the interviews on knitted fabrics that were most frequently used and with the highest sales volumes showed that plain, lace, links & links, miss, and 1:1 rib were ranked accordingly for S/S use, while jacquard, cable, 1:1 rib, links & links, milano, plain, and half cardigan were ranked accordingly for F/W use.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• 제9권2호
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• pp.133-148
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• 2006

This research endeavors to provide correct handling methods of jeans through a study on care labels for wearing and handling behaviors of female university students in their twenties. The conclusion of the research is as follows: The study indicates that coeds own more than seven jeans and wear them three or four times a week on the average. The research showed that washing jeans once weekly is the highest. It showed that the jeans are mainly laundered with water and also with water and dry cleaning together. The students responded that they dry cleaned the pants several times and then water wash them after buying the pants in order to prevent change in colors and shapes of the pants. Content of labels should be improved because most female students indicated the importance of the care labels. The reliability and understanding of the labels were surveyed to be lacking. The survey indicated that the percentage of checking the sizes was the highest when the students bought the jeans. Furthermore, the label "handle with care" turned out to be examined more frequently than the indication, "textile materials breakdown" when they took care of the clothes including laundering or ironing. Moreover, the students experienced extensive color change after water washing and other accidents when taking care of their clothes. Their attitudes were surveyed to be very passive on handling the problems after washing or handling jeans. Therefore, the study concluded that the labeling methods should be improved especially in regard to the validity verification of the label contents and also the manufacturers should make concerted efforts to improve and enhance the consumer's rights and interests for effectiveness and accuracy of the descriptive labels.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제17권6호
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• pp.960-971
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• 2009

The purpose of this study was to observe street fashion, to determine preferred design of jean and to analyze preferred jean styling based on types of jean pants design, toward 20s to 30s women. We observed outfits of jean styles on the street using photography method and conducted a survey to 400 females to get information of consumers. Four hundred questionnaires were analyzed using SPSS. As a result of street research, the majority of people were wearing jean pants with T-shirts, sandal/high heel shoes and totes. The results of market research showed that preferred jean styles were significantly associated with age and marital status. Preferred color of jean pants was also significantly associated with age variable. Current popular jean style was a skinny style. We evaluated results of styling with different jean pants, creating five different images. There was a significant relationship between age/marital status and styling image in different jean styles. In a bootcut style, age variable was significantly associated with different styling images. Generally, most of people responded cute/casual image styling was the best for the bootcut style. In skinny pants, there was a significant association between a residence area and a styling image. Modern/chic image styling with skinny pants was the most favored one. In cropped jean pants, marital status was significantly associated with styling image created. We realized that we can create different images through a styling.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제18권2호
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• pp.229-244
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• 2010

This study aims to discuss the type and characteristics of primitivism in the modern fashion of the $21^{st}$ century and, as a research method, the concept of primitivism as well as the transition of the patterns of primitivism expressed in modern art have been considered and reviewed through a variety of references. In particular, an empirical analysis of the works that have been created from 2000 to 2009 has been performed using domestic and overseas fashion and collection magazines. The characteristics of primitivism in modern fashion possess the following types of expression: First, Sensuality can be cited as one of the characteristics, either by using direct or indirect exposure of the human body, a silhouette which fits tightly to the body, or creating the effect of sensual beauty using animal fur or bird feathers. Second, Incantation: Masks symbolizing primitive incantation are used to cover the human face or primitive incantation is incorporated as a theme of hair accessories or fashion trinkets, etc. In addition, such decorations as tattoos and the body colorations of ancient tribes are reproduced in modern fashion by means of body painting, printing or other accessories, emphasizing the image of occult primitiveness. Third, Naturalness can be cited as one of the characteristics. Naturalness is emphasized in modern fashion not through artificial decorations and processing, but rather through different patterns of exposure by which natural purity can be felt or through the use of non-artificial materials which recalls primitive civilization. Forth, Playfulness is expressed in the form of graffiti or abstract letters and paintings, and the character of the play is often expressed by the use of grotesque images based on various distortions and exaggerations of the human body, the utilization of symbols of primitive incantation and body and/or facial painting. Fifth, Lastly 'folkishness is emphasized. Folk-like objects, facial decorations, exposure of the body and intense color contrasts typically represent the folkish characteristics.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제17권6호
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• pp.1009-1020
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• 2009

This study aims to express the androgynous image via shirts as a fashion item. Shirts are widely worn as a fashion item regardless of sex and age, with growing importance as a casual outer, with the increase in leisure activities driven by the recent implementation of the 5-Day Work Week system in Korea. As for the theoretical background, the study was reviewed previous studies of books, thesis, a series of publication, and the Internet sites on this topic. Through a careful analysis of these previous studies, it designed and made shirts that inspired by androgynous image. Conclusions of this study are as follows: First, the study found that meanings of symbolism in clothing continue to change, not fixed at all, depending on historic and cultural environments, and so does symbolism for femininity and masculinity of clothing. Second, shirts are widely worn as a fashion item regardless of sex and age, with growing importance as a casual outer, with the increase in leisure activities driven by the recent implementation of the 5-Day Work Week system in Korea. Third, two patters were used for the work in this study in order to emphasize its form, along with mono color white and stripe patterns. For materials, cotton and blend as a most basic material for a shirt were used with unique variations in the form. Fourth, decorative details or trimming such as ribbon tying methods, shirring, attaching in layers, and irregular pleading widely used for women's wear were applied, and silhouettes with strong drape feelings were used to add feminine feature to men' shirts, in an effort to propose a fashion design of the androgynous look. Fifth, clothes proposed in this study are different from feminine clothing item blouse, because they are androgynous shirts mixing masculinity and femininity. Stiff pads were used in collars and cuffs characteristics of men's traditional shirts to maintain masculinity of a shirt, and design was developed by adding feminine decorative elements, which is different from women's blouse.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제19권5호
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• pp.981-992
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• 2011

The objectives of this study were to analyze the design elements of hairstyles, wedding headdresses, and necklines in wedding magazine pictures by using content analysis method and to investigate the differences in image perception according to hairstyle, wedding headdress, and neckline. A quasi-experimental method by questionnaire was used. The experimental design was a $2{\times}5{\times}4$(hairstyles${\times}$wedding headdresses${\times}$necklines) factorial design by 3 independent variables. The subjects consisted of 378 female college students. The results are as follow. First, the most popular among hairstyles, headdresses, and neckline forms were the updo hairstyle, dark brown hair color, the crown headdress, white flowers, and the horizontal bared top. Second, the elements determined to be most elegant and attractive were the medium-up hairstyle and the crown with a veil. However the wedding hat was perceived to be high in individuality and tenderness, while the flower and the wedding hat were perceived to be very pretty. The halter neckline was perceived to be higher in individuality and attractiveness than the other neckline types. Third, the medium-up hairstyle when wearing a crown with veil was perceived to be the most elegant. Placing a flower in the long-wave hairstyle was evaluated as looking most pretty. Fourth, the medium-up hairstyle was higher in preference than the long-wave style. Among wedding headdresses, there was greatest preference for a crown.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제16권3호
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• pp.444-460
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• 2008

The purposes of this study were to investigate life style and various clothing purchasing behaviors of female consumers, and to analyze the differences of life style and clothing purchasing behaviors by 3 age groups(adolescence, middle age, and senescence). The subjects were 750 adult women aged from twenties to sixties who live in Daejeon and Chungnam province. The research method is a survey and research instruments consisted of life style questionnaire, clothing purchasing behaviors questionnaires, and demographic attribution. Data were analyzed by factor analysis, variance analysis, Duncan's multiple range test and $X^2$ test, using SPSS program. The research results are follows. First, 6 factors were emerged in life style(appearance-oriented, achieve-oriented, social life-oriented, economic- oriented, equality of sexes-oriented, and leisure- oriented). Second, 5 factors were emerged in shopping orientation(resonable shopping, conspicuous shopping, voluptuous shopping, devoted shopping, and convenient shopping). Third, clothing purchasing behaviors of adult women showed many differences by age groups. Adolescence women considered more criterion including design, price, and color or pattern, purchased their clothing by psychological reason such as fashion change, and used internet as important source of clothing, whereas senescence women purchased by physical reason such as body size change and functional trouble, used friend and sales person as important source of clothing, and purchased clothing at department store and old style market.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제26권2호
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• pp.233-250
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• 2018

This study examined images typical to this city and explored ways to develop cultural products using these images. Researchers reviewed literature about fashion cultural products and related previous research, and then conducted a closed-ended survey to analyze universal fashion preferences. For the examination material, such a way was used as information data base and network review inside and outside the country, dissertation screen, and published media including separate volumes. The following are considering points in the developing process. First, the study identified design, color, price, practicality and quality as factors that should be taken into consideration when using the image of Gangneung. In particular, it determined that the image needs to reflect a modern sensibility while maximizing its representation of local culture. Second, Gangneung's symbolic image should incorporate the sea, Gyeongpo, and coffee. In other words, the sea, Gyeongpo, and coffee should receive top symbolic priority. Third, from a development perspective, the most appropriate items for displaying the image include t-shirts, keychains, umbrellas, or other accessories, since these items are easily available in terms of price. In sum, this study highlighted the necessity of reconsidering Gangneung's currents ymbolic image, suggesting that a new image should be developed. Developing a typical fashion cultural product image will enrich Gangneung's cultural industry and the distribution of newly designed products will improve the localeconomy.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제25권3호
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• pp.285-300
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• 2017

This study analyzes the images of models in womenswear advertisements targeting women in their fifties. The goals of this study are: 1) to investigate beauty ideals for middle-aged women by analyzing models' look age, chronological age, wrinkles, gray hair, hair length, body type, and race; and 2) to explore how ageing is dealt with in advertisements by analyzing the range of bodies shown in advertisements, the color mode of photographs, and the clarity of models' figures in relation to models' look ages. A total of 155 printed advertisements from January 2012 to January 2017 from the brands Daks Ladies, Lebeige, Luciano Choi, PAT, and Zishen were selected for analysis. Womenswear brands targeting middle-aged women reinforce cultural ideals of female beauty that emphasize youth and slenderness. They do this by using thin and slender models, who most often appear to be in their twenties and thirties, and have hair longer than their shoulders. Brands with higher price ranges show a preference for Caucasian models, which reveals that a Caucasian identity is associated with sophistication. In addition, the bodies of models who appear to be in their forties and fifties were concealed by framing photographs mostly above the knees. Older models' features were also obscured via the use of black and white photography, strong lighting and contrast, and digital editing that blurred the boundaries between figures and their backgrounds. These decisions for how to represent models could result in negative self-esteem and a denial of the symptoms of ageing among middle-aged women.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제25권6호
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• pp.862-879
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• 2017

The purpose of this study is to analyze Alexander Wang's collections representing the athleisure look, and suggest a multilateral direction for fashion design based on the data. The present study examines literature, journals, and mass media to define the athleisure look and understand the background of its emergence, and assess its key design characteristics. The collections examined are from 2007 fall/winter to 2017 spring/summer, and T by Alexander Wang from 2011 spring/summer to 2016 fall/winter. A total of 446 photos were collected and verified by a group of experts. The characteristics of the athleisure look in Alexander Wang's collections were described by the following themes: dynamism (39.46%), unexpectedness (34.30%), sensuality (14.57%), and resistance (11.65%). Results revealed a number of findings: First, regarding the sensuality of the athleisure look found in Alexander Wang's collections, it was found to exhibit the lines of the human body and highlight sexiness and healthy beauty - with either direct or indirect body exposure. Second, the concept of dynamism is the most frequently seen - utilizing items with a comfortable or loose fit or materials that are flexible to enhance activity. Third, resistance appears as a specific style using aggressive and rough decorations. Alexander Wang's signature color, black, appears often, and showcases resistance through black clothing and fashion. Fourth, the unexpectedness of the athleisure look found in Alexander Wang's collections creates its own uniqueness with playful expressions made by various materials' mixed and matched or made visually fun.