• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
• /
• v.26 no.1
• /
• pp.261-274
• /
• 2000

The o/w emulsions were prepared with saccharide surfactants which were sucrose monostearate(S160), sucrose distearate(S110), and POE(20) methyl glucose stearate(SSE20). And for emulsion the oils used were n-hydocarbon, squalane(SQ), liquid paraffin(LP), octylpalmitate(OP), octylstearate(OS), alkyl benzoate(AB), isostearyl benzoate(ISB). The structures of o/w emulsion droplet were investigated by laser light scattering and the fractal dimensions were calculated from light intensity curves. Increasing of concentration, chain length, and nonpolarity of oils, fractal dimensions of emulsion droplets were found greater. In general fiactal dimensions were varied from 1.7 to 2.8 and its structures were fractal But the fractal dimensions of octadecane( $C_{18}$), 50, and LP emulsified with S110 and S160 were varied from 3.0 to 3.2 and its structures were more dense. The overall fractal dimensions of S110 and S160 were varied from 2.1 to 2.6, that of SSE20 were varied from 1.5 to 2.1. So it was found that the structures of SSE20 system were less compact than that of S110 and S 160 system, because the hindrance effect of polyoxyehtylene group of SSE20 was stronger than that of sucrose of S160. The strucures of emulsion droplets changed according to the nature of emulsifiers and to compositions of oil substances which they contained, and the structures were found similar when the hydophilic moiety of emulsifiers was same.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
• /
• v.38 no.6
• /
• pp.1370-1382
• /
• 2021

Previous studies have been conducted on domestic materials as a single extract. Research on complex mixtures for maximizing plant characteristics by individual extraction and potential interference with effects is insufficient. Therefore, this study confirmed the GC-MSD according to the extraction of essential oils for Agastache rugosa O. Kuntze(AR), Pinus densiflora Sieb. et Zuccarini(PD), Curcuma longa, Curcuma domestica(CC), Zingiber officinale Roscoe(ZR), Foeniculum vulgare Miller(FV), and Citrus medica L. var. sarcodactylis Swingle(CS). The cytotoxicity, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory properties of the blending oil were confirmed to confirm its potential as a cosmetic material. As a result of analyzing GC-MSD aroma components, the main components were estragole of AR, à-Pinene for PD, Zingiberene for CC and ZR, Anethole from FV, and D-Limonene for CS. At a concentration of 100 uL/mL with no confirmed cytotoxicity, NO production was inhibited by 70.62%, DPPH radical scavenging activity was 64.03%, and ABTS radical scavenging activity was 89.55%. Through this, blended essential oil suggests the possibility of useful application as a raw material with antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects in the cosmetic and food industries.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
• /
• v.49 no.1
• /
• pp.1-8
• /
• 2023

This study focused on the development of a vegetable recombinated oil to mimic the animal-derived mink oil. Various vegetable oils and fatty acid substrates were mixed and an immobilized enzyme was utilized in the reaction to synthesize a plant-derived mink oil through deacidification and purification processes. The chemical composition and thermal properties of the recombined oil were confirmed using gas chromatography and differential scanning calorimetry. Our results show a high similarity between mink oil and our synthesized plant-derived mink oil, revealing the potential of utilizing vegetable alternatives for the substitution of animal raw materials, which have been gradually discontinued as cosmetic ingredients.

• Proceedings of the SCSK Conference
• /
• 2003.09a
• /
• pp.469-479
• /
• 2003

A novel branched wax has been developed for the control of the hardness of oil-wax gels. Using this wax, glossier application and smoother texture but tough lipstick can be obtained. Oil-wax gels are oily solids composed of liquid and crystalline solid oils (waxes). They are widely used in various cosmetic products, especially lipsticks. The control of gel hardness is one of the most important techniques in improvement of the lipstick quality. Addition of small amounts of commercial branched paraffin wax (e.g. microcrystalline wax, b-PW) to n-paraffin wax (n-PW) has been commonly used to increase gel hardness. However, gel hardness is very sensitive to the quantity of b-PW and the gel obtained is not always hard enough for practical use. In this study we examined the relationship between the gel hardness and the properties of the wax crystal in the gel. We have found that, when b-PW is added to n-PW, the wax crystal size becomes smaller (hardening the gels) and its crystallinity is decreased (softening the gels) simultaneously. Considering this result, we have developed a novel branched wax, Bis(polyethylenyl)- tetramethyldisiloxane (named ESE). ESE molecules are composed of a central tetramethyldisiloxane unit (branch unit) with polyethylene units at both ends. The central unit may suppress crystal growth while the ends are expected to prevent a decrease in wax crystallinity during crystallization. When ESE is added to n-PW, the wax crystal obtained becomes smaller without decreasing in crystallinity; consequently, the gel hardness is dramatically increased. By using ESE, the total amount of wax in a lipstick can be decreased by 30％ without spoiling the stick toughness, thereby achieving glossy application and smooth texture.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
• /
• v.25 no.4 s.34
• /
• pp.97-110
• /
• 1999

The new stick make-up product was studied by using a gel, which is a viscous complex formed with clay minerals, vitamins A and E and fluorinated liquid polymer with a 1500 molecular weight. The gel cannot be obtained with any random combination of clay minerals and the ingredients described above. It takes the sequential manufacturing method as follows to get this kind of gel. Firstly, clay minerals and liquid polymers have to be pre-mixed in order to saturate the liquid polymers with the clay minerals. Then the on-processed gel has to be finely crystallized. The clay minerals, which are the core elements for this gel, were used as a function of Binder & Buffer and liquid polymer was mixed together for the deterioration of the surface tension of each component and to form a functional film in the gel. This liquid polymer was combined with clay minerals because it is not miscible with most oils and solvents. Waxes have a function of keeping a solid status in the stick. We reduced the usage of waxes by putting clay minerals as buffer in the proportion of 0.5:1 with oil phase. Ceramide takes care of the skin when used regularly and maintains the skin's moisture. Vitamins A and E contribute to preventing skin aging by the activation of skin cells. We could get the stable viscous gel, which has about 80% oil phase using clay minerals and liquid polymer. The crystalline structures of gel were surface-chemically-analyzed using SEM and Image Analyzer and were thermodynamically analyzed using DSC. Surface tension test and softness were done by Rheometer. In the end, these characteristics were verified by consumer panel tests in Seoul, Daegeon and Pusan in Korea and Hokkaido, Osaka and Miyazaki in Japan with correlation to the climate.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
• /
• v.26 no.1
• /
• pp.93-106
• /
• 2000

One phase liquid crystal formula was developed by using of nonionic surfactants, polyols, water and oils and its physical property was investigated. At the system oft to 1 ratio of POE octyldodecyl ether series, which have Y type (branch type) hydrophobic group, and POE glyceryl monostearate series, Y type hydrophilic group, it was examined that the formula at 7:3, 6:4, and 5:5 ratio of nonionic surfactant : polyols, shows L$\alpha$ , a pattern which is a typical characteristic of liquid crystal structure under the cross microscope polarized film. As results of L$\alpha$ phase diagram study, the formula which had high hydrophilic nonionic surfactant and the 7:3 ratio of nonionic surfactant : polyol appeared to increase the amount of oil containment and to be capable of the lamella formation. Besides it was examined that lamellar liquid crystal formula could contain about 25-40% water between lamella layers and it was transformed into w/o emulsion following as water content increased. When the lamella gel was applied into a human skin, it was investigated that it had effectiveness in increasing transepidermal water content of the skin.

• Korean Journal of Food Science and Technology
• /
• v.50 no.5
• /
• pp.535-542
• /
• 2018

The current study investigated the beneficial effects of 15 essential oils isolated from tree branches, leaves, and flowers. Among these oils, clove bud and Illicium anisatum oils showed the most potent anti-oxidant effects on 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl and 2,2'azinbis-(3-ethyl-benzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) radical scavenging activities. Next, we evaluated the antibacterial effects of 15 essential oils on Staphylococcus aureus, Listeria monocytogenes, Escherichia coli O157:H7, Salmonella typhimurium, and Streptococcus mutans. Clove bud significantly decreased growth of 5 bacterial strains. In addition, clove bud, Magnolia kobus, Picea abies and Chamaecyparis obtuse significantly reduced growth of the fungi, Aspergillus fumigatus, Aspergillus ochraceus, Candida albicans and Trichophyton rubrum. Additionally, clove bud also remarkably reduced the expression of cyclooxygenase-2 and inducible NO synthase in lipopolysaccharide-activated RAW264.7 cells. These results indicate that essential oils isolated from trees, which exhibit antioxidant, antibacterial, antifungal and anti-inflammatory properties, may be potentially useful in the development of cosmetic ingredients.

• Journal of Life Science
• /
• v.27 no.4
• /
• pp.430-434
• /
• 2017

Essential oils are fragrant oils extracted from the leaves, stems, peels, petals and roots of aromatic plants cultivated by natural means or using organic agricultural techniques. Essential oils have commonly been used as antibacterial and antifungal agents. In the present study, essential oil was extracted from lisianthus (Eustoma grandiflorum [Raf.] Shinn.) and tested for antifungal activities against three eumycetes (Penicillium pinophilum, Chaetomium glogosum and Aspergillus niger). Lisianthus essential oil showed high antifungal activities against three eumycetes, especially against Aspergillus niger, for which the resulting minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC) was 0.005 mg/ml. In addition, the extracted essential oil was shown to have antimicrobial activity against ten intestinal pathogenic bacteria (Escherichia coli, Salmonella typhimurium, Klebsiella pneumonia, Staphylococcus aureus, Bacillus cereus, Listeria monocytogenes, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Bacillus subtilis, Enterococcus faecalis and Vibrio parahaemolyticus) according to the disc diffusion method and was also shown to exhibit strong antibacterial activity against an additional three pathogenic bacteria (Bacillus subtilis, Listeria monocytogenes and Vibrio parahaemolyticus). These results indicate that lisianthus essential oil could be used as an antibiotic against harmful bacteria that produce intestinal illnesses. From the present study, we suggest that lisianthus extracts can be utilized as potential antifungal and antibacterial agents and for the development of pharmaceutical and cosmetic products.

• Journal of Life Science
• /
• v.22 no.10
• /
• pp.1344-1351
• /
• 2012

We studied the physical, chemical, biological, and antimicrobial effects of eight types of essential oils used in the cosmetics industry: lavender, tea tree, rosemary, juniper berry, Chamaecyparis obtusa, cypress, cedar wood, and pine. Lavender oil had a linalyl acetate (an ester chemical compound) content of 48% and radical scavenging activity of 22.36% at 5,000 ppm. Tea tree oil had radical scavenging activity of 43.94% at 5,000 ppm and antimicrobial activity against S. aureus, S. epidermidis, S. mutans, and C. albicans in each 6, 3.5, 6.5, and 5 mm, respectively. Chamaecyparis obtusa oil had the highest acidity (pH 2.64) compared with the other oils, and sesquiterpene compounds were found to have 19.20%. Cedar wood oil had the highest specific gravity and refractive index compared to the other oils and had a sesquiterpene content of 99.73%. The radical scavenging activity of cedar wood essential oil exceeded 39.68% at 5,000 ppm. The clear zone, indicating antimicrobial activity against P. acnes, P. ovale, and C. albicans, was 3.5, 6, and 6 mm, respectively, at a concentration of 1% cedar wood oil. Results showed that with a high sesquiterpene content, the antioxidant effect was generally, but not always, high, suggesting that this is determined according to composition of the compound rather than presence of each antioxidant. The results indicate that antimicrobial activity is determined by the existence of each antimicrobial ingredient rather than terpene composition.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
• /
• v.34 no.4
• /
• pp.787-798
• /
• 2017

This is a study on characteristics according to the material of sheet-type mask packs being sold on the market. The absorption capacities of water soluble components such as purified water, 1.3-propanediol, 1.3-butylene glycol, glycerine, and hyaluronic acid are compared with that of various oils including cyclomethicone, dimethicone, phytosqualane, caprylic capryl triglyceride, grape seed oil, and macadamia nut oil. As a result, all of the water soluble components except purified water showed higher moisture absorption capacity as the viscosity increased. And in case of oil, all oil showed higher oil absorption capacity according to the viscosity. During this test, the mask sheets with the type of acetic acid fermented bio-cellulose showed 500~1,000 times or more absorption capacity on water soluble wetting agent or all oils, which is due to the fine mesh structure seen in the 5,000x enlarged photograph at surface structure. This mesh structure was well recognized on the cross section and these structural features enhance the absorption capacity of water and oil. It is also believed that largely contained water-soluble components and oils facilitate the discharge over time. In addition, since each mask sheet shows their characteristics according to their material, it is intended to be a basic research for manufacturing mask packs good for skin.