• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.16 no.1
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• pp.30-39
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• 1990

Angelica gigas extract and Cnidium of ficinale extract in Bath essence were determined by high performance liquid chromatography with a UV detector by use of Bondapak C-18 column. Decursin and Ligustilide were used as indicator ingredient for analysis of Angelica gigas extract and Cnidium of ficinale extract. Each indicator ingredient was isolated from each plant and purified using silver-ni-trate treated silica column. Their structure were conformed with IR, NMR and HPLC. The recoveries of Angelica gigas extract and Cnidium officinale extract added to Bath essence sample were 96.5-109.5% and 112-115%.

• Journal of Applied Biological Chemistry
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• v.54 no.1
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• pp.33-40
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• 2011

Ionizing radiation can be used to improve the color of green tea extract to brighter. As a result, the irradiated green tea extract can be applied easier and broader in food or cosmetic industry. To confirm the retention of the biological activities of the cosmetic products added with green tea polyphenols (PPs), the real cosmetic products including a skin lotion (PS) and an essence (PE) cream were manufactured. Irradiation also applied to the manufactured cosmetic products to see their improvement of color and changes of biological activity. The PP showed 72% of electron donating ability (EDA) at a 5 ppm concentration and the PS and PE containing 2% PP showed higher than 60%, which was similar inhibition activity to vitamin C. The inhibition of superoxide dismutase (SOD)-like activity of PP, PS, and PE were higher than 55% at a 500 ppm concentration and the inhibition of xanthine oxidase (XOase) were also higher than 65% at a 200 ppm concentration. The measurement of lipid oxidation by addition of $Cu^{2+}$ and $Fe^{2+}$ as prooxidants showed that PP and PS had higher metal chelating ability for $Fe^{2+}$ than that of PE and the ability increased by increase of polyphenol concentration isolated from green tea. The $Cu^{2+}$ chelating ability of PP and PS showed higher than 90% at a 200 ppm concentration. Therefore, it is concluded that addition of PP in manufacturing PS and PE retains its biological activities including EDA, inhibition of XOase and SOD-like activity, and metal chelating ability in the manufactured cosmetic products. In addition, irradiation of PS and PE improved color of the products containing PP brighter without any adverse changes in biological activity of the products.

• Korean Chemical Engineering Research
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• v.50 no.4
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• pp.610-613
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• 2012

In this study, plant extracts including 25% Saururus chinensis, 20% Morus bombycis stem and 20% Morus papyrifera stem were tested to use as possible cosmetic agent. As cosmetic effect test, cell toxicity test, elastase inhibition assay, tyrosinase inhibition assay, anti-oxidation assay and temperature stability test were done as cosmetic assays. Plant extract showed low cell toxicity, excellent elastase inhibition and anti-oxidation effect, however, tyrosinase inhibition effect was lower. Skin, lotion and essence formulation was made using plant extracts and temperature stability test was done. Skin and essence indicated good stability, however, lotion showed phase separation and severe viscosity variation, which means lotion formulation change. From the research, plant extracts including Saururus chinensis, Morus bombycis stem and Morus papyrifera stem were suitable for possible cosmetic agent.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.48 no.1
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• pp.1-10
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• 2022

Customized cosmetics are continuously mentioned as a trend in the cosmetics industry to respond to the recent rapid changes in the social environment and pursue individuality and diversity. Accordingly, four types of liposome essence corresponding to skin types were prepared by varying the ratio of liposome formulation and essence formulation as a customized cosmetic base that can be easily mixed and applied at the workplace. The volatilization residues of four types of liposome essence were measured and the nanoparticle size, polydispersity index, zeta potential and viscosity according to time for 90 d were measured, and Turbiscan was measured as a method for evaluating the stability of a colloidal dispersion system. In addition, a simple usability evaluation was performed for four types of liposome essence corresponding to the skin type. As a result, the amount of volatile residue in the four types of liposome essence was increased in dry products rather than oily ones, and the particle size showed a tendency to increase with time in the range of 165 to 175 nm, increasing up to 31.5%, and the polydispersity index was 0.23 to 0.26. There was little change with time, and the zeta potential was -74 to -72 mV, showing a slight decrease with time, but there was little change to the extent of a maximum decrease of 14.0%. Viscosity showed a decreasing trend with time in the range of 2,580 ~ 3,290 cps, showing a maximum decrease of 17.5%. In the turbiscan measurement, all of the turbiscan stability index, a measure of stability, were less than 1.0, indicating dispersion stability. In the overall simple usability satisfaction evaluation for skin types (6 points), products for oily skin (5.33 ± 0.75 points) > products for medium dry skin (5.13 ± 0.95 points) > products for dry skin (5.03 ± 0.96 points) > products for oily skin (4.80 ± 1.04 points) points) were evaluated in order. The four types of liposome essence corresponding to skin types with different ratios of liposome formulation and essence formulation were physically stable, and the possibility of application as a customized cosmetic base according to skin type was confirmed.

• The Korean Journal of Applied Statistics
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• v.25 no.6
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• pp.987-997
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• 2012

The sales volume of men's cosmetics has drastically increased in Korea. In recent years, men's needs for cosmetics have been diversified and the consumer demand for functional cosmetics has greatly risen. In particular, male consumers have become more interested in essence product that is a light and concentrated treatment to correct skin problems. This research analyzes consumer preferences for essence-for-men through the use of choice-based conjoint analysis. This approach is adopted since the task of respondents to choose the most preferred option from several alternatives closely mimics actual marketplace purchasing behavior by consumers. New technique for the construction of choice sets is suggested based on the balanced incomplete block design, to accommodate a larger number of product profiles. The proposed design for choice sets is balanced and provides a tool to filter the contradictory choices. Conjoint analyses are performed to assess the relative importance of attributes and identify the most preferred profile of essence-for-men with respect to attributes such as emphasized function, price, type of content, and design of container. Some differences are indicated in the analysis results between age brackets as well as between groups classified by the amount of fashion item expenditures.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.45 no.4
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• pp.353-361
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• 2019

Using Fervidobacterium islandicum AW-1, keratin peptides were produced and confirmed factors related to the scalp and hair. The cytotoxicity and proliferation tests as a function of the concentration of the keratin peptide did not show toxicity and effect on the cellular proliferation in the immortalized human hair dermal papilla cell line. Hair shampoos and hair essences containing keratin peptides were produced, and conducted human patch test. Result showed no skin irritation. The shampoo and the essence were apploed to 2 groups of 30 healthy adults for 4 weeks and showed statistically significant positive results for gloss, hair loss, scalp trouble, and hair roughness by visual assessment. The scalp water content was significantly increased after 2 and 4 weeks compared to before using the shampoo or the essence. Trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and the sebum secretion amount in the scalp were significantly decreased after 4 weeks compared to before. The frictional force against combing before and after using the hair shampoo and the essence for normal hair tress and damaged hair tress was significantly changed. The combing force was increased for normal hair tress and decreased for damaged hair tress. In conclusion, we suggest that keratin peptides are appropriated as cosmetic ingredients to be used in hair and scalp related products.

• Journal of Applied Biological Chemistry
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• v.54 no.2
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• pp.108-113
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• 2011

The tyrosinase inhibitory activity of extracts from Phellodendron amurense was examined. Tyrosinase inhibitory activity of 60% ethanol extracts was determined as 25% and the inhibitory activity of 60% ethanol extracts against melanin biosynthesis in melanoma cell (B16F10) was 31.2%. The purified inhibitory compounds against tyrosinase by Sephadex LH-20, MCI-gel CHP-20 column chromatography from P. amurense was confirmed as obacunone by $^1H$-NMR, $^{13}C$-NMR and Fast atom bombardment (FAB)-Mass spectrum. The tyrosinase inhibitory activities of purified obacunone was respectively as 35.1%. The safety of essence with tyrosinase inhibitory compounds from P. amurense was also assayed by various safety profiles. First, pH and viscosity change of essence for 60 days were not detected. The essence also showed the stability against temperature and light for 60 days. All these findings suggest that extracts from P. amurense has a great potential as a cosmeceutical ingredient, which has a potent whitening effect.

• Applied Biological Chemistry
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• v.50 no.3
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• pp.210-216
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• 2007

Cosmetic products including skin and essence were manufactured to analyze the effect of green tea polyphenols addition. In addition, irradiation was applied to remove an undesirable color of green tea polyphenol(GTP), which may cause a problem in the marketing, of a final product; moreover, comparative studies were conducted with the cosmetic products on whether or not antiseptics were treated to verify its use for the development of non-antiseptic cosmetic products. Growth inhibition zones were shown in the microbial study except for Candida albicans. The minimum inhibitory concentration(MIC) of E. coli and C. albicans was 2,500 ppm but that of S. aureus was 1,000 ppm. The numbers of E. coli and S. aureus were reduced to undetected levels when 10,000 and 5,000 ppm of polyphenol were added, respectively. Results indicate that the addition of irradiated green tea polyphenol provides a good method to manufacture functional cosmetics including skin and essence with various biological activities such as antimicrobial activity without antiseptics.

• Proceedings of the SCSK Conference
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• 2003.09b
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• pp.219-238
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• 2003

Indole-3-acetic acid (IAA) molecule has been successfully encapsulated in biocompatible inorganic matrix in order for the cosmetic application such as superfacial fine line reduction. The encapsulation was realized through chemical reaction involving simultaneous formation of inorganic lattice and 1M giving rise to an 1M-inorganic nanohybrid (IAA-brid) which shows excellent storage stability and sustained releasing property of indole-3-acetic acid. The clinical efficacy of essence cream containing IAA-brid as anti-wrinkle formulation was also carefully evaluated by measuring the roughness of the skin replica before and after treatment. Upon administration of the cream on the eye-area, the fine-line is drastically reduced.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.44 no.4
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• pp.381-388
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• 2018

Various characteristics of Opuntia humifusa (O. humifusa) extract solution obtained under low temperature and reduced pressure were examined and cosmetic essences using the extract solution as a humectant were prepared. The O. humifusa extract solution represented very small surface tension (25 mN/m) and contact angle ($8^{\circ}$), compared with other humectants such as glycerine and 1% hyaluronic acid solution. Also, the viscosity and stickiness of the extract solution were very low. The O. humifusa extract solution made it possible for a small amount of oil to be dispersed stably in water without any surfactant. Unlike other humectants, the viscosity and stickiness of cosmetic essences were reduced as the extract solution content in formulation increased. These results show that the O. humifusa extract solution obtained under low temperature and reduced pressure can be used as a natural humectant that provides moisturizing property and less sticky feeling.