• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.2 no.3
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• pp.198-204
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• 2000

This study aimed to analyze the characteristics of domestic textile designs for miss and madam apparel and to find out the trend sensibility felt by young female judge according to the product year and apparel target age. Textile designs of 170 pictures of 1999 and 1994-1995 were collected at 4 shopping malls and from consumers, and results are as follows; As the sources of textile design were 'nature', 'imagination', and 'combination' used in the order of frequence, but the sources appeared more diverse in 1999 than in 1994-1995. The interpretation techniques expressed most often were 'stylized', 'geometry', and the mast frequent arrangements were 'all over', and the second was '4-way' in 19941995, '2-way' in 1999, that is, the arrangement were different according to product year. The trend sensibility were varying to the target age and product year.1999 apparel products were felt more 'sophisticated', 'contemporary', and 'sporty' if they were the textile designs for miss, while 1994-1995 products were more 'sophisticated', 'contemparary', and 'sporty' if for madam.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.2
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• pp.149-167
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• 2001

Today, every culture has taken on the compromise form by means of the cultural difference, variety, and pluralism according to the internationalization and the advance so that it has been developed toward the half-blooded and multilayered the aspect. In accordance with this current of the times, this thesis observed the feminism found in the multiculturism of the end of the 20th century, the third world, and technology with the side of the tendency of modern fashion, considered the hybride phenomenon which is pulling down the wall between culture and genre due to the social diversification. and predicted the fashion trend do 21st century serf on it. Multiculturism is the movement that began to arise in the academic world of America and the literary world form the close of 1980's in accepting the variety of culture and regarding the culture with the more balanced and wide view and just as it is, it means the attitude of accepting one or more cultures of variely and the position of taking interest in the culture of minority race not the culture of a governing race. It is the fashion of feminism adapts dualism like unisex, androgynous look, etc of bisexual lendency in the 1980's, it shows new style with crossover of liberal sense because there is not the difference of sex in fashion. The eco-feminism pursues the natural sexuality not being instrumental and dismantling and expressed it in the Gender expression of an integrated human being. The trend of ethnic fashion in the close of 20th century is that the element of hippie is working so strongly. By adding embroidery of Oriental style, accessories of Indian style, feathers, beads, a hempen hood to the ethnic costumes of Asia and Latin, is shows the figure of ethnic hippie. As the cycler fashion is the future clothes through technology of computer, it uses a cool glass material bringing up the image of a spacesuit in order to expresses cyber image through artificial color combination of sheen colors, Though this techno-color fashion has established the fresh stimulation and the innovative aspect with ultramodern materials and image of futurism, it transmits a hope of estranged people and the natural elements. Hybride means a cross and mixture of animal and plant in Korean and is also called fusion. The phenomenon of hybrid predicts to comes the period of a cross and variation because something completely new comes into the world by contamination, mixture and compromise through meeting something different each other and it has on advantage of developing something existing to one more stage. It is prospected that in the society of 21st century, the borderline of traditional gender will be disappeared, variety and individuality will determine the individual behavior, and the masculine value will be substituted by feminine value. In the society giving priority to feminine value, a fashion stuck closely to women is what must reflect lives of woman under the proposition of woman's beauty, being on original function. So, it is considered that a fashion with added convenience and practicality having the function which is easy to put on, comfortable to act, able to express solves so much, and able to show various appearances according to T.P.O will get into the spotlight.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.13 no.6
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• pp.125-136
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• 2009

The main objective of this research was to understand the characteristics of complementary color scheme through the analysis of contemporary women's fashion color coordination as they appear in the 'Collections'. Data collection of 115 was done through review of 'pr$\hat{e}$t-$\grave{a}$-porter Collections' of four cities; Milan, London, New York, Paris. Statistical analysis of frequency and also qualitative interpretation of characteristics of complementary color harmony characteristics which appeared in four collections were completed. The main findings were as followed; (1) Only 115 complementary color schemes out of 4968 two color combinations appeared. Compared the comparative ratios of appearance frequency between the two color combination and the complementary color harmony, London showed the highest, and followed by New York, and Milan and Paris. (2)The combined color type of 'red+green' was the most frequently appeared, and followed by 'violet+yellow' and 'orange+blue'. For the type of tone harmony, the contrast tone showed the most, and followed by the similarity and identity. According to the type of complementary color combination, the type of tone harmony used differently. Some differences showed in the types of color harmony and tone harmony between collections. (3) The complementary color scheme which shown in four collections harmonized two opposite colors mainly through the strong tone contrast and this could cause tension along with interest in the image. The complementary colors intensified and brought out the attributes each other. More details, high contrast of two complementary colors of yellow and violet created a vibrant look especially when used at higher saturation. Sometimes, however, some tone variations of two hues neutralized the strong effect and sometimes enhanced each other. When they used in similarity tones or identity tones in light colors, the tension was reduced and became softened but still presented nice harmony. In the type of 'red+green' color harmony, the various color combinations were demonstrated, mostly through tone manipulation of green color. The similarity tone harmony, which used the most, could effect a better sense of harmony and present more sophisticated looks. When used in contrast tone harmony, some changes in its own color which have only one color of two the excessive intensity led a good harmony. The 'orange+blue' color harmony was shown the least and used three tone harmony almost the same ratio. In this color harmony, blue amplified its energy and brilliance of orange and seemed to work better when one color was at a lower intensity than the other. In harmony with a similarity and an identity tone, this color harmony produces a stable and calm image. (4) The complementary scheme appeared more frequently in the S/S collections than in A/W collections and showed some differences in the types of color harmony and tone harmony between seasons, however, no big differences between collections.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.49-63
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• 2019

The purpose of this study is to examine the characteristics of modular design observed in Korean traditional clothing. Modular design, which is one of the noticeable characteristics of modern fashion design emerged in the 20th century. This study analyzed the Korean traditional culture to investigate the characteristics that show similarities to the modular system in design. A traditional Korean house is composed of small structures called 'chae'. A traditional Korean building is composed of a basic unit space called 'kan', and the rooms are divided and recombined. Korean traditional interior design shows furniture, bedding and art works that could be used, folded then stored. Korean cuisine is served in combination with small dishes. Korean letters are combined in square shaped form to make writing and printing easy. Korean traditional clothing has a way of washing where clothing are disassembled, washed and then re-stitched. The pattern pieces are made to be rectangular shaped so that the fabric pieces can be kept in shape during washing. The rectangular shaped pattern pieces can be replaced and reused after washing. Tops and bottoms could be interchanged for color-coordination, because the shapes of the clothing were standardized. These features exhibit modular system in Korean traditional clothing design. Modular system design has common characteristics which have basic modules, pursue practical purpose, have interchangeability adapted to circumstances, and could be disassembled and re-combined. Korean traditional clothing illustrates different ways of practicing modular system, but has some common features to contemporary modular fashion design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.8
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• pp.75-86
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• 2004

This study aims at considering and analyzing the stature of denim clothing as an ornament as well ai how aesthetic meaning and human being's mental side indwell in the development of denims. which will be proceeded in the future, from the view of contemporary culture of dressing. It is found that the stylishness expressed through denim clothing is formed on the basis of the cultures of party, drawing and disorganization, and the result of the study was as follows. Firstly, the culture of party became the source of for decoration of denim clothing, and denim clothing more glamorize women as a party-look which makes the most use of its advantage to be comfortable and able to display in various ways with splendid artificial jewelry, patchwork, dyed pattern which is elaborately embroidered. Secondly, Such culture of drawing is applied to denim clothing so that denims are expressed to make people feel more human being's warmth as being free from the existing stereotype and formality. Thirdly, the most outstanding feature of denim clothing showed in the culture of disorganization is to make the most use of vintage style as it is. This reflects an image of the culture of disorganization under postmodernism, which is free from the traditional conception of the existing dressing by destroying the original form, in the way of slashing, making a hole and tearing. That is, people can sufficiently express not only free sense of release based on postmodernism by wearing denim clothing, but also human being's intrinsic desire for restoration of humanism or human warmth with splendid decoration or various techniques such as handicraft. It can be recognized these features as the reasons, that make denim clothing place themselves as an original fashion item, by giving denim clothing technical decoration in recent years.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.6
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• pp.1112-1128
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• 2009

The purpose of this study was to develop royal costume design with contemporary taste depending on the character of hero, Lee San, and time flow of TV historical drama and research design discrimination and creative expression. As study methods, the literature study using books and theses concerning costume, fine art, culture and history were used for theoretical background and the empirical study method manufacturing actual costume on the basis of literature and relic were used for dress manufacture. The design concept of costume was modern & chic & clean. The costume was designed through straight silhouette, clean & bright colors excluding prime colors, style transformed to permanent straight pleats on the basis of chulik, 100% silk material focusing on high quality and pattern & decoration of the age of Three Kingdoms. As results, the designs of princess' official rob, day dress and chulik, and emperor's official robe, chulik, military dress and chun-dam-bok were developed. The design discrimination depending on social status change. In the period of princess, black, white, silver and blue were used but in the period of emperor, red, gold and black were used. It was expressed through dragon pattern and extended length used in cloth. The design discrimination depending on character change was visualized through color. Although it is not consistent with historical investigation, contemporary fashion design elements were added to royal costume through color contrast of black & white, permanent straight pleats, velcore, wristlet, extended length and layered-look.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.16 no.3
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• pp.33-48
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• 2014

Based on the advent and dissemination of new developments concerning information & telecommunications technology, web services have brought new paradigms into society, thus facilitating the birth and evolution of various service industries to society as a whole. This study is aimed at investigating the expansion of the first Birthday party culture and design examples of the first Birthday partywear appearing in social media, through an inquiry into the communication functions inherent in social media. Also, the development of the first Birthday partywear designs for women aged 20 to 30 years was accomplished by categorically analyzing design characteristics in preferred fashion styles uploaded and shared within online childcare communities. First, it can be concluded that due to the bidirectional flow of information between corporations and consumers occurring from the expansion of social media, the entire structure of the market is undergoing great changes. Next, the need for the supply of professionalized the first Birthday partywear can be proved by the influx of party planners and caterers into this new industry. Third, Through a categorical analysis of these 523 photos, elegance style was the most preferred while classic and romantic styles followed. Last of all, 5 pieces of partywear reflecting contemporary consumer lifestyles which focus on 'enjoying one's own life' were created under the concept of 'Romantic chic'. The created designs aim to present a style which follows the predominant trend of elegance, classic and romantic, whilst keeping sensitivity in moderation. In this context, this study has aimed to present fundamental research data in the field of online the first Birthday partywear, through the development of the first Birthday partywear design based on the first Birthday party consumer characteristics gleaned from various forms of social media.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.53-62
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• 2009

Through the result of the investigation on costumes in Bulgarian regions, the main factors for the formation of Bulgarian folk costume and its kinds and history have been found out so far as follows. Alhtough varying according to the district and climate, Bulgarian folk costumes have some general features determined by the material, the pattern, the application. For women, Bulgarian costume consists of a white shirt, a single or double apron unique depending on each region(Bruchnick), a basic dress called a tunic (Soukman), and an open-tunic typed coat (saya). The main factors for the formation of Bulgarian folk costume have been under the influence of natural and environmental features and historical streams resulting from its geographical location. Bulgaria is agriculture-oriented society based on a continental climate. Accordingly, as for the classification of costumes, body-fit clothes, such as shirts and jackets which developed in Europe and fit the body shape, have featured in Bulgaria. Besides, Bulgaria was under the rule of Turk for a long time at the end of the Middle Age. Having been influenced a lot those days, its folk costume shows Turkish elements now. With geographical features, it was found that the southern area was influenced most by Turkey and Greece, and the types of folk costumes in Europe developed mainly from the northern area. The adaptation of traditional costume forms to the new cultural and progressive principles of appeal nowadays needs knowledge, as well as feeling. Finding the right measure and proportions of using old ethnic elemints in contemporary clothing is the prerequisite of successful design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.35
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• pp.325-341
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• 1997

One of the noticeable trends of female wear in 1990s is the Outwearization of Underwear as it is called 'Lingerie look' This trend meaned 'Exposure Fashion' raised splendidly its head to the whole stage of fashion destrying the tradional concept having divided the fashion between outwear and underwear by Madonna an Americal populer singer showed up in front of the audience wearing the corset-dress as a stage custome. This corset-dress which can not be recognised whether it is underwear or outwear has been diffused into the mass as a fashionable trend re-gardless of any reason; therefore discrimi-nation of wear by space by far that is underwear should have the sstandard telling between private and public sector has been gradually tumbled. By the way what has propelled desigers to introduce the style continuously having the underwear motive such as outwear almost as same as underwear or underwear worn on out-wear etc. and has made it a fashion trends? How do we accept this "Ligerie look'fashion" The rearch on vogue of outwearization of underwear started by the questions above can be summarized as the followings The division between the sprit and the ma-terial-economic shrinkage by the collapse of the bubble economy in the late of 20 century and expectation for the next century doubt by changes of international politics dynamics for the next century and increasement of psycho-logical tention by the environmental destruc-tion etc, has been extended to break the sense of value down These frustration of the tra-ditional values and dissatisfaction on the pres-ent have reflected on the fashion pursuing some more sensational style to increase the ex-posure of the body. The revolution of wearing bouncing the con-servatismhas outwardly expressed underwear of the private sector. Therefore the spatial concept of wear which for the public sec-tor has been fallen into pieces and has broken the wall of the concept fixed by outwear on underwear. in addition the stage costome for the popular people like Madonna has not been limited by the specularity any more and has been assimilated with the normal wear on the street to take the distinction for away. The circumstances of the late of 20 century pursuing sensation and making sex commer-cialized have accordance with the outweari-zation of underwear. there it is on the basis of Minimalist's dogmatism has been expressed the maximization of expoure in the pubric space to popularize bra pants(knickers) as outwear. The reaction on the attribute of hiding and shanding has brought 'See-Through fashion' with the transparent materials, The contemporary doubt recalling the mem-ory of the past has sublimated corset which was an instument of toture for women into Romanticism to introduce it to fashion with the development of a new material not to be a tool of any oppression and maltretment any longer. The popularization of outwear like underwear what's more has brought high quality of underwear. There it has called for the variety of materials such as knit demin and velvet etc, and has urged the famous designers to enlarge their working boundaries to underwear designs, Besides outwearization of underwear has been popular even in the Orient which has the con-servative opinions on exposure ; so changes of the thoughts can be seen among the establish-ment generation on exposure of the body. As the more high tech information publi-cized and the more technology and media digitalized the more expression being analog the pursue for the new in fashion with vision never been seen and even though it is imprac-tical the experimental designers have drived the freedom beyond the traditional roles of the previous century. Consequently outwearization of underwear may be viewd as a trial as an expression responded the contemporary background. This trend in my opinion will have been lasted for a while by being proliperlated among lasted for a while by being proliperlated among the pub-lic who has the century-end anxiety and doubt and expectation for the next century.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.15 no.1
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• pp.1-18
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• 2015

The ethnic dress of Germany's Black Forest, called Tracht, dates back to the 16th century. Although most people living within the Black Forest do not presently wear Trachten, some persistence in this tradition exists. This study explored the factors that have supported the persistence of the Trachten tradition, specifically related to the wearing and crafting of Trachten by women, in a contemporary society. A qualitative, ethnographic approach was adopted. Data were collected via observations and interviews in the Black Forest. Thematic analyses revealed that the maintenance of the Trachten tradition was linked to varied factors that revolved around the overarching themes of both persistence and change. Interpretations were supported by theory proposing that ethnic dress is not static, but rather, changes across space and time in ways that enable its persistence. The persistence of the Trachten tradition was linked to formalized practice, meaningful identities, and desires to preserve and promote local culture. Additionally, the persistence of the Trachten tradition was fostered by change in the tradition, including the conceptualization of Trachten as a "lived practice" and the negotiation of Trachten authenticity.