• Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.97-103
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• 2008

This research thesis is designed to put Korean traditional and unique wedding dress with a greater significance and value than any other dress into application right for the global and contemporary trend, as part of a bid to show Korean traditional beauty. To do it, this thesis has attempted to add the traditional beauty to Korean inherent wedding dress and contemporary wedding dress, with the use of various traditional beauty elements, such as the line firm, materials and color based on the research on wedding dress, such as, 'Wonsam' or 'Unlined Jacket, and 'Long-sleeve Red Silk Jacket', and 'Dangeu' or 'Court Suit' that women wore in the Joseon Dynasty. To recreate Korean traditional beauty of line this research thesis has firstly put into the application the sleeve of 'Wonsam' or 'Unlined Jacket' and the form of a large section of 'Wonsam' of 'Unlined Jacket', and 'Doreyon Line' or 'Trimming Line' of 'Dangeu' or 'Court Suit' as wedding dress that women wore in the Joseon Dynasty. Secondly, this thesis has applied lotus and peony patterns out of traditional ones inlaid with 'Long-Sleeve Silk Jacket' into the contemporary wedding dress to develop a creative and special design. Thirdly, regarding the expressive pattern technique, this thesis has designed the repetitive rhythmical pattern with the use of beading technique and embroidery technique, which makes needle work picture and pattern in fabric. Lastly, it can demonstrate the original and distinct Korean style in application of western wedding dress into traditional and contemporary dress, by devising two collections of dress art pieces.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.9
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• pp.161-176
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• 2007

The objectives of this study are to select and analyze unpublished wedding dresses in the 19th century, to investigate the design characteristics and making techniques of Victorian wedding dresses, and to examine the correlation between the wedding dress style and the fashion style in those days and the influence of the wedding dress style on contemporary's styles. The materials of this study were 9 wedding dresses owned by the Historical Costume and Textile Collection at the University of Connecticut in USA. The dresses were made during the mid and late Victorian Age. As for silhouette, the bustle style was popular in the 1870s and 1880s, and the hourglass style in the 1890s, and different from contemporary dresses there were no big differences in structural pattern and details between ordinary dresses and wedding dresses. In addition, colored wedding dresses were used until the mid and late Victorian Age, but since the wedding ceremony of Queen Victoria in 1840, white wedding dress was widely accepted and settled as the tradition of today's wedding dresses. While the Western dress style had been basically a one piece style, there appeared simple two piece designs in which the upper garment was separated from the lower one, from the mid Victorian Age. This is considered the reflection of those days' pragmatic social trend in dress style. It seems around 1875 when asymmetric design was first introduced in the Western dress style, which had been mostly symmetric. The asymmetric style that pursued atypical beauty, though not common during the late Victorian Age, shows a change in the typical Western dress style. With regard to dress making techniques, sewing machines were distributed widely during the early Victorian Age but they were not used in all parts of dress. Most of details and trimming works were done manually and some parts were attached and detached by hand sewing. In addition, not like today, there were no generalized rules of making such as the form of closings and composition.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.27 no.2
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• pp.140-153
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• 2019

The aim of this study is to develop new wedding dress designs by blending the traditional female Korean upper garment of Han-bok, known as dang-ui, with Western-style wedding dress designs. For this research, the author considered the various types of wedding dresses and their historical development based on literary resources and previous studies of the subject. The results are as follows: first, this study featured the use of different types of fabric for the dang-ui, selected from the various fabrics available for wedding dresses. Starting from the basic design of a sleeveless and strapless princess-line tight top, three different styles of A-line dresses were created: a tiered long dress, an unbalanced tiered midi dress, and a spangled and pleated mini dress. The study also resulted in a tight H-line mini dress with a bustle. In this way, the author was able to suggest new wedding dress styles that are well suited to the cultural trend of the Korean wave. Second, the traditional Korean dang-ui is an elegant ceremonial garment that harmonizes well with Western-style wedding dresses. Satisfaction can be found from combining these creative fusion gowns with traditional Korean aesthetics. Third, the traditional Korean ceremonial coronet jokduri and veil, which go well with dang-ui wedding dresses, are suitable accessories for contemporary wedding dresses. The dang-ui wedding dress, a result of merging the Korean dang-ui and the Western style, will help enhance business for both the Korean and the international wedding industry thanks to an aesthetic that has global appeal.

• The Korean Fashion and Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.4
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• pp.489-498
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• 2008

This study is on the image evaluation of the hair up-style and the wedding dress styles of prospective brides. Based on some prior theoretical studies, and information obtained from wedding magazines and interviews conducted at the beauty business places, four kinds of the hair up-style were selected, namely, top-point, golden-point, back-point, and nape point. Three styles of necklines were selected: boat necklines, V-necklines, and off-shoulder necklines. The surveyor herself did the hair styling for models, and dressed up the models, to produce the stimuli. And the stimuli were presented to percipients along with questionnaires for measuring the image evaluations. Prepared were total 12 different kinds of stimuli, in which four hair up-styles and three dress styles were combined into 12 combinations ($3^*4$), and, with respect to these 12 stimuli, 26 itemized questions were included in the questionnaire. From the factor analysis on the image evaluation of the hair up- style and wedding dresses, five factors were derived as fallowing: attractiveness, boldness, purity, cuteness, feminity. This study revealed that wedding dress styles are more sensitive to the contemporary trend, compared to the hair styles; and the selection in the wedding style is quite influenced by the dress style, but not by the hair up-style. Also, prospective brides evaluated the hair up-styles and the wedding dress styles separately without recognizing their mutual relationship, and thus did not recognize the two as the mutually coordinated relationship, but rather recognize the two as two separate elements.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.13 no.5
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• pp.23-36
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• 2009

The purpose of this research is to design and to produce actual high value added wedding dress comprised of the pear blossoms pattern(梨花紋), which is one of the traditional patterns which was not researched to this day, and of the Dang-$\breve{u}$i(唐衣) image which reflects our concept of beauty as if as a means of conducting empirical study for the application of traditional Korean patterns to the contemporary application. pear blossoms effectively signifie the image of beautiful bride thanks to the pure, graceful and clean image of white flower, both in the external and internal aspects. The Dang-$\breve{u}$i of the Chosun Dynasty, which is another motif is one of the representative clothing that expresses the beauty of the curve when it comes to the Korean culture as traditional wedding dress. Attempt was made to develop design for wedding dress that expresses the Korean style beauty that combined the tradition and the modern. Towards this end, the project was composed of the Korean-like Ewha, image of the Dang-$\breve{u}$i I, II and III to design three dresses. The Dress I presents the image of pure, elegant and beautiful bride, while Dress II represents the pure and city like trendiness of the Korean women today as bride. Dress III was made centered on the image of elegant, and chaste bride. As for the materials used, hand-woven silk and silk organza used for the traditional clothes. As for the ornaments, embroidery, quilted work, beads, corsage, burn-out and other techniques were used for expression.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.10 no.2
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• pp.160-177
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• 2002

Wedding ceremony is a most basic and significant rite of religion. Clothing fur the ceremony is also assumed religious in essence. Thus this study focuses on ideas and religious qualities implied in wedding dresses for women in the latter period of Chosen. Among those wedding dresses for women in the public class, in this study, Yeom-Eui(염의), Won-Sam(원삼) in green and Hwal-Ot(활옷) are discussed. Yeom-Eui seemed preferred by only some of the nobel class who still considered manners and customs as very important. The rest people often wore a brilliant Hwal-Ot rather than Yeom-Eui under influences of a loosened social position system and sumptuous moods. Since a wedding is the reflection of social condition and at the same time a religious rite, the above mentioned difference in wedding dresses between the class of scholars obsessed with Confucianism and the rest public seems attributable to differences in values and religious views between the two groups. Of course, Hwal-Ot was also transmitted from the Chinese nation of Tang, so it complied with a contemporary flunkeyism about Chinese culture. Won-Sam and Hwal-Ot were designed with patterns representing the very significance of wedding and those wishing worldly blessings more children and more sons, longevity and wealth and prosperity. The fact that wishes of more children and more sons were more often implied by patterns of wedding dress in the latter Chosen indicates the legitimate oldest son-oriented patriarchical family system at that time influenced to such contemporary dresses. Meanwhile, those patterns used for Won-Sam and Hawl-Ot were influenced mainly by Confucianism, but sometimes based on Buddhism and Taoism. It suggests that the Chosun dynasty emphasized Confucian manners and customs to restore previous values which had been about to be collapsed since wars with the Chinese Ching and Japan, but nevertheless in the public class, Buddhism and Taoism were more deeply prevailed. This was supported by patterns and colors shown in wedding clothing.